Ascents in Arapiles by Vanessa Wills

I think Dave did variant on P2 left of the actual line at grade 16/17, it was cobwebbed and no chalk, but quite good.

The bottom crux felt 18. The top crux past the second bolt is scary for leader as invisible from ground above a ledge and at least a grade harder. Dave pointed to the good hold to top out. Definitely would not be physio approved…

Quite enjoyable

Nice start and crux. Convenient anchors. Not sure the physio would approve, but she did say I could climb easy stuff…

Apparently been on this before

Lovely rock architecture, wasn’t really looking for pro but it appeared spaced.

Pretty good varied climb but slippery in spots. Didn’t want to risk falling and reinjuring my back

Personal top rope grade 19, probably feels worse on lead. We did the start but finished through roof to right

Nothing like some hot desert air and vertical quartzite to help the bad back and junky chest

A fun little climb

A good way to exhaust ourselves before/ as the rain hit with a couple of runs on this. Shame about the ledges.

It was ok, I was just heading to anchors so as to clean claw. ( don’t ask)

About 4 grades easier than claw. Lots of gear. Nice enough.

Pleasant, nice face climbing.

Just do Hurts.

Pretty pumped compared to top roping it, even without having to fiddle too much with gear.

As a finish to leaden echo

Like a Bluies exit corner, but nicer rock.

Felt a bit contrived to make the grade

Gah. Came off at end of undercling section. Definitely not the first to do that. I did second this clean about 12 years ago, but I had forgotten everything…

Rpt. Good as one long pitch

Having seconded this a long time ago cleanly, I didn’t give it proper respect and botched the hand sequence on the Alzheimers OS attempt. Then got rained on twice,though fortunately the lower part of the route stayed mostly dry

Got on the right route today. Quite nice. The low roof shared with Honeycomb feels stout for the grade

Led up to crux ( again) but not sure what to do, go right or left, but with a bit of beta spray managed it on top rope. It’s all about a super high right foot cam. Oh well, it partially clears up the old dog….

Rpt. The rock was super cold and I lost feeling in my fingers

Second go today, put some gear in, managed to hang on despite muffing sequence

Used the preplaced gear, though the red cam in the hand jam is probably better placed after getting to ledge. Most gear straight forward but the two crux bits feel fiddly.

Another 2011 ascent not logged. Was probably too busy climbing in the Monty 8 days on era

Did this in 2011 with Monty and Nick

Rpt, this time I lead the first 1.5 pitches

Rpt, heading up to the top via linkups, trying to squeeze in Claw, but thwarted by rain

Kind of what I did as the rain storm was imminent

Rpt Rope solo first 2 pitches, second Luke last 2.

Rpt. Seconded Luke who unfortunately had so much rope drag I had 3 m of slack out at all times and it felt like I was soloing

Pitch 4 this time then headed left to anchors from top of Confession.

This isn’t too bad, though rather mossy. Rope solo

The good bit felt quite short, but not too bad.

One sit. The route finding isn’t obvious. We went right then up then left then right! Double ropes would be useful

Really nice route. Because it’s hidden behind the annoying bush I will mention a #4 is handy. Did quite different approach to Dave due to reach at the start to get crack. Then quite sustained climbing but good stances for gear.

Had forgotten pretty much everything from a couple of years ago, but managed it second shot today. Worth a lead this trip. A bit of a hidden gem

Oops, I was meant to be warming up on Nativity. I thought the jugs were a bit small. The bottom half is good, just abseil off the rings.

I am pretty sure I belayed the FA of this a decade ago and declined to do it due to skin and reach. I was obviously more sensible back then. Everything today felt quite spoogy. This took a few more goes than it should have for the first 4 metres. I just kept sliding off the hold at the end of the crux next to the wire placement. It’s really a direct start to Psalm 69

Nice to get this off the list, coming back a second day with the beta fresh was worth it. Having the crux wire placed was good for the mind, the rest of the gear is quite straightforward.

First 3 pitches. Rest day activities. Weathers too nice not to climb….

Rpt, in 2 pitches (alt)

Another reacquainting mission. One low percentage move is my main problem.

Rpt

Reacquainting myself with this. I find it has some long moves

Rpt, it’s a decade since I first tried this. My jamming has improved, felt very straightforward today

Rpt, felt a bit pumped on the warm up

A little thrutchy, not too bad and something new to do

Nice enough, felt more positive than the start of creon.

Alt with Dave. Getting off the ground for the first 5 m was the hardest move.

Tricky start

Super fun.must come back and lead it.

Quite fun, easier than Hurts