Ascents in Gestalgar by Dominik

Harder than the left neighbor. Might make sense to swap grades.

Initial holds also chipped. Nice but short further up.

Pretty hard and fingery on almost entirely chipped holds

The start is harder than it looks

Felt better than I remembered. But still don't have a good sequence for the crux.

Bit dirty on top.

One rest at third quickdraw.

Still can't clip the second quickdraw properly.

Putting up the draws - clipstick was my best friend.

First attempt to put up draws and re-learn the moves. Second to send.

Same same.

Today was not the day...

As most of the routes here, this is basically just a boulder problem at the start - and then significantly easier. Hard to say whether I agree with the given grade, 6b+. Probably soft.

Reachy

The third attempt was alright. Got about half-way between 3rd and 4th bolt. One rest, then to the chains.

Again the same warmup climb. With the sun in the face, the climb didn't flow well. Struggled more than I wanted.

More attempts, but still lacking the power endurance to reach the jug.

The bottom part, including the start, goes well now

This route is essentially just the start boulder. Not worth it.

A lot harder than I expected. Difficult to get over the lip.

Interesting route. But the start - no surprise - is polished and hard.

Again one rest at the third bolt. Still lacking the power endurance to climb straight through to the fourth bolt.

okay as a warm-up

Tough start and then a hard and morpho middle section. Not sure why the local guidebook has this at 6a+. A grade around 6b+ or 6c seems more appropriate to me.

Comparing this directly to 'John no es Bon Jovi', this is definitely harder. Probably the hardest out of the "easy" climbs on the left side.

One rest at 3rd bolt

Good warmup

Hard from start to finish. And sharp.

Lack of stamina for the last move out of the vertical. On top a lack of faith for the bulge.

Did the first two bolts more on the left now. Seems more logical as you get the holds the "right" way. And definitely easier than going right. This changes my opinion about the grade. 6b is probably right.

Not even in top-rope today...

Hard and painful start. More of a boulder problem than a route as all the difficulty is concentrated in the first two bolts.

Feels closer to 6b+ (or even 6c?) than to 6b.

Without using the big pile of stones that has accumulated here ;-)

Found a necessary rest this time.

Couldn't do the crux move and aided. Quite hard for 6c+(?)

Polished but still super nice. Got past the start boulder this time.

Hard throughout for me.

Nice one. Interesting traverse step into a hard crimpy section. Then a short respite before the crux over the bulge.

Climbed the direct start.

Easy warm-up. At the end of the slight overhang you can continue right and around - that felt logical (and very easy) to me. But even if you go left around the protruding edge, it's only slightly more difficult. No way this is a 6a+, even with the lefthand variation. 5+ at most.

Got quickly shot down by the crux on the onsight attempt. Then worked it and got a good sequence. Thought I had everything clear for the seconds attempt - where I in fact did pass the crux nicely, but then messed up higher up. And also the third attempt. Seems I need to come back for this one.

Setting up top rope for the kids.

Very recommendable route!

On the first go I couldn't remember how the lower crux was done. Didn't bother finishing the route and just memorized the crux move for the next attempt.

Second attempt went fine and I got through the route smoothly. Also found an easier sequence for the inconvenient section just below the top. (First three quickdraws on the wall from first attempt.)

I cannot imagine how this can be 6a - or even 6b. You can escape the crux left or right, but then you are clearly in the neighboring route. Maybe this should be graded around 6b+?