Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Ruinas | ||||||
5b ~5c+ | ★★ La Olla - with Sebastian Huland | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Harder than the left neighbor. Might make sense to swap grades.
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6a ~5c | ★★ El Higueral - with Sebastian Huland | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Initial holds also chipped. Nice but short further up.
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de la Torre Mestre de melodies | ||||||
6a+ | Gear on ★★ Donde no hay mata no hay patata - with Falko | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
The route goes a bit zig zag. Long quickdraws recommended. I also unclipped the bolt after the flake for less ropedrag.
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Buñol | ||||||
Carcalín Cueva Celta | ||||||
6a | Gear on ★★★ Dame más - with Falko | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dame más! This corner-crack-climb is so much fun that you don't want it to end.
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6a+ Easy | Gear on ★★★ Vamonos pal sol - with Falko | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route. Quite some meters in the overhang, too, but the holds are so good.
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6b+ Easy | Gear on ★★★ ¿Y tú, pa qué entrenas? - with Falko | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second bolt pre-clipped.
Super route. Almost fell off between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Then easier terrain. A lot of good rests before the final overhang. Still got pumped doing the overhang and almost fell off. But was saved eventually by one of the good holes at the end. Compared to 'El jabalí no tiene pila' this route felt a lot easier. |
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Buñol | ||||||
Carcalín Corral de Cabras | ||||||
6a ~6a+ | Gear on ★★ Tita la fisurita - with Falko | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Good route. Would be very good if it was not for the polished feet at the crack.
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Fri 15th Mar 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Master | ||||||
6c | ★★ Lluvia negra - with Rena | 43m, 20 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some tricky sections in the vertical/steep wall. And then a never-ending slab.
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6b | Gear on ★★ Mecano en Dios (L1) - with Rena | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Barranc Fondo Escarcha Negra | ||||||
4c+ | ★★ Vía nueva (1) - with Sebastian Huland | 7m, 3 | Average | |||
Too short to be really engaging. Has one move where you need to stand up on a good foothold with poor hands.
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Barranc Fondo Estiu | ||||||
6b | Gear on ★★ Pistacho - with Sebastian Huland | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt pumped at the end - despite the mostly big holds.
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Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Cucala | ||||||
Sector 1 | ||||||
5c | ★★ Optimista - with Falko, Victor, Sebastian | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good holds throughout and friendly bolting.
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Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Cucala | ||||||
Sector 1 | ||||||
6b | ★ Menudos Mutantes - with José | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Bit of a one move wonder
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Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Alcalali | ||||||
Main | ||||||
6b ~6a+ | ★★ Yorkshire Lads - with José Maria, Isa, Pablo, Arantxa | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I'll count this as a flash instead of an onsight, because of climbing the right neighbour, where I've sort of climbed half the crux already.
Apart from the short crux around the tufa, this route is just leisure climbing on huge holds and pockets. Is it a 6b because of the crux? Or maybe just 6a+? |
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6b Hard | Gear on ★ Dijous i bo - with José Maria, Isa, Pablo, Arantxa | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
As we had done Stahlgewitter already, we finished on the lower chains to the right. The hard part anyhow seems to be the slab at the bottom.
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6a+ | Gear on ★★ Stahlgewitter - with José Maria, Isa, Pablo, Arantxa | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very nice!
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Fri 17th Nov 2023 - Chulilla | ||||||
Tabaira Pesadilla | ||||||
6b+ ~6b | Gear on ★★★ La discordia - with Isa, Sergio | 36m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Cucala | ||||||
Sector 1 | ||||||
6b | ★★ Yonki woman de la roca - with Falko | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great diverse slab climb.
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4c ~5c | ★★ La paca - with Falko | Average | ||||
I'd say that one move over the blank section is not 4th grade anymore.
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6a+ | Gear on ★ Leño - with Falko | 20m | Average | |||
Weird one. On the start boulder you climb way to the left and it's hard to clip the second quickdraw from there. I don't think there is a way straight up - at least not for 6b. The third quickdraw is placed uncomfortably high, so that failing to clip might result in a groundfall.
A bit higher, when you get to the depression in the rock, I kept following the crack underneath further to the right and then clipped from there. On my way down I tried that section again straight up and I believe I have avoided the crux on the first try when following the crack. So, I'll give this ascent only 6a+. |
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6a | Gear on ★★ ¿Que hay de nuevo viejo? - with Falko | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Good warmup
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Altet Sol | ||||||
6b ~6a+ | Gear on ★★ Carros de foc - with Luis | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyable and varied lab climb. Though I didn't find any real hard bit. Therefore I believe it's a rather soft 6b or even only 6a+
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6a+ ~6a | Gear on ★★ Johnny vive mucho - with Luis | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Montanejos | ||||||
Campo de Tiro El Jardín de Oscarín El Obélix | ||||||
6a+ | Gear on ★★★ El culo de Yolanda - with Falko | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The start is a bit pumpy. But then it's nice making your way through the hole.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Jérica | ||||||
Trincheras | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ From lost to the river - with Falko | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5b | ★★ Enguany sexe-ni - with Falko | 23m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Alto Mijares | ||||||
Palomarejas Olimpo | ||||||
6a Hard | ★ El pigmeo - with Falko | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Alto Mijares | ||||||
Fonseca Playa | ||||||
6b Hard | Gear on ★ Xocolate Sexy - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
The route lacks a bit of continuity. Some easy steps get you before a small bulge where you need to pull on crimps to get over it. Then you can relax again on a big ledge and gather your wits and think about how to reach that undercling pocket from where you can clip the chains.
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6a | ★★ Composición - with Falko | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Divertido
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de la Torre Can volador | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Idiolecto - with Falko | 27m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
6c+ Easy | Gear on ★★★ Aníbal el caníbal - with Falko | 23m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bit surprised to take home the flash. But the slab eventually resolved easier than it looked. Soft 6c+?
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Ruinas | ||||||
6b | Gear on ★★ Loma La Casa - with Adri | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de la Torre Pisuke | ||||||
6b+ ~6b | ★★★ Sublime - with Falko | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 30th Apr 2023 - Mas de Domingo | ||||||
Sector 1 | ||||||
6a Hard | ★★ Paga la cabra - with Falko | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
That's a hard move for a warm-up!
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6b Easy | Gear on ★★★ Pata de cabra | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
It feels so good when you squeeze into the off-width high-up! Good and diverse route.
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Mon 20th Mar 2023 - Chulilla | ||||||
Chulilla Town La Peñeta | ||||||
6a+ | Gear on ★★ Pequeño gran hombre (L1+L2) - with Luis | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good route. Lower down a bit of polish in the crux. The second pitch is worth the effort - though there was quite some rope drag in the end.
We did it in one long pitch with an 80m rope, lowered until the intermediate anchor and re-threaded there. |
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Fri 10th Mar 2023 - Chulilla | ||||||
Barranquillo - Falfiguera Peña del Reloj | ||||||
6b | ★★★ La hora del te - with Claudio, Rena | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good route. Bit awkward to get onto the big ledge. Then it's nice moves on big holds.
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Wed 8th Mar 2023 - Chera | ||||||
Antenas | ||||||
6b+ Easy | ★★★ Parecementerio - with Adri | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Quickly passing the (easy) start boulder you move up nicely, already eying the roof, and then suddenly realize that you have to pass this super thin slab section first before getting to the roof.
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6a | ★★★ Blarta - with Adri | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
6a | ★★ Casiopea - with Adri | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Cucala | ||||||
Sector 1 | ||||||
5c | ★★ Nena esto no frena - with Falko | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Altet Sol | ||||||
6a | Gear on ★★ Cid Cabreador - with Luis | 15m | ||||
Seems to be a nice route. But my fingers were so freezing cold that I couldn't enjoy it.
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Montesa | ||||||
La Mola de Montesa El Racó del Boticari | ||||||
5c ~6 | Gear on Albert Abad i cia - with Mariola Martínez | 3 | Don't Bother | |||
First a ladder, then one awkward move into the diedro, then a walk to the top. And the rope scratches a lot over rock and rope when coming down.
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Sat 17th Dec 2022 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de la Torre No dogma | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Crucifixión - with Falko | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not sure I followed the intended line of the route. May have been a bit left. Climbed the central/right version while coming down on toprope. Seems also quite doable
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Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Alzira | ||||||
Tallat Roig Emo | ||||||
6a+ Hard | Gear on ★★★ El yate de mamá - with Batiste | ★ Good | ||||
Thin section around mid-way
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6a Hard | Gear on ★★ Enciende tu motor - with Batiste | ★ Good | ||||
This route is run-out. It feels like you better don't want to fall on this one.
The chimney is fairly easy though with good feet and hands throughout.
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Alto Mijares | ||||||
Hoz del Mijares Central Park | ||||||
6b | ★★★ III República - with Nicky | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - Serra de Segaria | ||||||
El Verger | ||||||
5c | Gear on ★★ Ermitans - with Vicente, "J" | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a ~5c+ | Gear on ★★ Pronoia - with Vicente, quot;J, quot; | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 18th Jun 2022 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Ruinas | ||||||
6a Easy | Gear on ★★ Aceitunas Picantes - with Tere, Miguel, Jorge, | 14m | ★ Good | |||
A lot of stepping out to the left wall makes this an easy ascent
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Tue 7th Jun 2022 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de la Torre Mestre de melodies | ||||||
6b+ ~6b | Gear on ★★ Tirant lo Blanch - with Jorge | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool climb along the crack. There are quite good holds throughout.
Felt even a bit easier than 'Un any estrany'. Would give this the same grade (6b).
Draws were already on.
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6b | Gear on ★★ Un any estrany - with Jorge | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool climb. The vertical middle section had me sweat quite a bit. Thereafter many good rests await.
Draws were already on.
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Sat 28th May 2022 - Altura | ||||||
CEAP | ||||||
5c | Nueva vía (2) - with Falko | ★ Good | ||||
This line is not in the new guidebook.
Not sure what the intended last bolt is. I've used the one from the left neighbor
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5c | ★★ Pell d'aserp - with Falko | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 30th Apr 2022 - Calles | ||||||
5c Hard | ★ Sin nombre (3) - with Falko, Laura, Alex | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
More interesting than it looks.
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6a | ★★ Dretus - with Falko, Laura, Alex | 10m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting
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6a+ | ★★ La sabina m'anima - with Falko, Laura, Alex | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
It's actually not so easy to get around the tree without "using" it.
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Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Cheste | ||||||
5+ ~4+ | ★★ Fíjate en la vejez - with Andrés | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pleasant climb. That's not a 5+!
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Tue 8th Mar 2022 - Buñol | ||||||
Carcalín Pánico en el Puente | ||||||
6a | ★ La Generación Teletuie - with Dani | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Start was wet. Rest okay
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Sat 5th Mar 2022 - Alzira | ||||||
Tallat Roig Alexandre | ||||||
5c | ★★ Tico Tico - with Isa | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Could be a 5 if not for the one section above the small bulge in the middle (right above the loose blocks).
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Sun 27th Feb 2022 - Montesa | ||||||
La Mola de Montesa Pedra cristal-lina | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Diedre Snake man - with Falko | ★ Good | ||||
One hard section. Alex and Falko gave me the right hints to do it on first try.
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Sat 19th Feb 2022 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de Enfrente Instints Primats | ||||||
5b | ★★ Conan el bomber - with Falko | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good warm-up climb.
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Sat 19th Feb 2022 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de Enfrente Huajalotes | ||||||
6b | ★ Los chupipuntos - with Falko | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Quite close to its left neighbor. Shares some of the good holds (?). Probably easier if you are tall.
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6a | ★★ Con la vena del rabo como cola de lagarto - with Falko | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climb with big holds in the crack. Bit polished, though.
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Fri 4th Feb 2022 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Aventador Alventa 3 | ||||||
5b | ★★ Sin nombre (15) - with Alfredo Moises Boullosa Ramones | ★★ Very Good | ||||
For me the crux was right at the first bolt. The rest of the rout is cruising. For a route in that grade a really complete climb: slab, corner, flake, overhang.
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6a+ | ★★★ La clásica - with Alfredo Moises Boullosa Ramones | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very good climb. Slab with several options to rest. Resolves in a nice finish towards the anchor.
#soft
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Sun 30th Jan 2022 - Montesa | ||||||
La Mola de Montesa El Racó del Boticari | ||||||
6a | ★★ Sin nombre - with Alex | 3 | ★ Good | |||
After the unsuccessful shots at the two 6a+'s, this was a welcome change. Pleasant route on good and big holds. Very rewarding and good last climb of the day.
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5c | Tricloroentano - with Alex | Average | ||||
The overhang is nice. The rest is average.
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Gandia | ||||||
Peña Roja de Marxuquera Critic | ||||||
6a | ★★ Gran diedre - with Nely | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thought this would be a relaxed last climb. Far from it. Was quite a battle to get to the chains. I'd say 6a rather than 5+
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Gandia | ||||||
Peña Roja de Marxuquera Fundició | ||||||
4+ 4c | ★★ Chitiri chitiri - with Nely | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyable. Good route for the grade
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5+ 5c | ★ Bombero Gorilero - with Nely | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun route! Good holds on the bulge.
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Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Alzira | ||||||
Tallat Roig Emo | ||||||
5 | ★★ Vía (2) - with Nely, Jorge, Anne | ★ Good | ||||
Easy enough. Definitely not a 6a. Must be wrong in the guide.
Climbing with broken(?) toe though. No fun.
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Sun 5th Dec 2021 - Alzira | ||||||
Tallat Roig Dama | ||||||
5 | ★★ Vía (1) - with Nely | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Newly bolted route. Super relaxed and enjoyable climb. Would almost give this a 4+, except for 1 section in the middle.
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5 | ★ El botifarra - with Nely | ★ Good | ||||
Had to squeeze through the palm leaves a little, and the middle section cost me a bit. All in all worthwhile.
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Sun 5th Dec 2021 - Alzira | ||||||
Tallat Roig Emo | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Passó de rotovator - with Nely | ★ Good | ||||
Ended up a bit far towards the right. Took me some effort to traverse and get to the chains.
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5 | ★★★ Teorema de Gauss - with Nely | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyed this one a lot!
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5+ 6a | ★★★ Emocions de tardor - with Nely | 27m | ★ Good | |||
Felt hard for a 5. I'll give this one a 5+.
Although it was my first climb of the day, which is always harder than the others...
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Sun 17th Oct 2021 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Ruinas | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ El levantador de pivas - with Luis, | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Luckily Luis showed me the sequence before doing this one. Good climb.
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6a | ★★ Seguntín - with Luis, | 12m | Average | |||
Warmup climb, though, too short to really warm you up. Once you reach the ledge, the route is really over. Apart from rope drag, the additional bolts don't add much.
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Mon 20th Sep 2021 - Antella | ||||||
5 | ★★ Javier (Sin nombre (13)) - with José Luis Agustí | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun climb - although not quite straight!
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Sun 20th Jun 2021 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María La Escalera | ||||||
6a+ | Sensei Lozano - with Luis | ★ Good | ||||
The tricky part is around the second bolt. Could have made my life easier if I had stuck to the sequence I envisioned from below. Has a section with poor rock quality somewhere in the middle, but you can climb around it. Not a bad route, but I'm not so sure if I agree fully to the statement of the route setter.
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Wed 2nd Jun 2021 - Vallada | ||||||
Tierra de Nadie | ||||||
6a 6b | ★★ GREIM - with Luis | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very enjoyable route. Would have been a nice warmup climb ;-)
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Mon 31st May 2021 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de la Torre Can volador | ||||||
5c 6a+ | ★ Delirante (Delineante liante) - with Falko | 22m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
The crack is more tricky than I thought. Eases up as you get higher.
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Mon 24th May 2021 - Jérica | ||||||
Trincheras | ||||||
5c | ★★ Los anales de nuestra historia (Vía (3)) - with Falko | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Good holds whenever you need them. While still low you can step out making it somewhat a chimney move, but the holds are all there so you don't really have to. Up on top you can chicken out and go left, or climb up right or even straight up. All possible. The nicer ones are straight up or right.
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Thu 20th Aug 2020 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Ruinas | ||||||
6a+ 6b | ★★ Por esa senda se llega - with Juanvi, Peter | 10m | Average | |||
One move wonder
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Sun 28th Jun 2020 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Ruinas | ||||||
5 5b | ★ Sin nombre (1) | 3 | Don't Bother | |||
6a | ★★ El Rajolar | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★ Bajo Molino | 6m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
6a | ★ Huerta Neva | 6m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 20th Jun 2020 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de Enfrente Instints Primats | ||||||
5c 6a | ★★ Blaky | 28m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
6b | ★★ Kagamandurrio | 18m, 6 | Average | |||
Sat 20th Jun 2020 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de la Torre Mestre de melodies | ||||||
6a | ★★ Feminist Beautiful (Vicent Corgran) | 27m | ★ Good | |||
5+ 6a | ★★ Alls secs piquen (thendres couen) | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 14th Jun 2020 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Ruinas | ||||||
5b | ★★ Hablando se entiende la gente | 12m, 7 | ||||
Sun 16th Feb 2020 - Algímia d'Alfara | ||||||
5 | ★ Amigo Búho | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a | ★★ Alejan-dría | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5+ | ★ Buscando el Quinto - with Falko, Clara | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Sat 8th Feb 2020 - Alzira | ||||||
Tallat Roig Alexandre | ||||||
5 5b | ★★ Alexandre L1 (SN8 L1) | 19m | ||||
Nothing special
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6a+ | ★★ Pituflais | |||||
Thu 12th Dec 2019 - El Chorro | ||||||
Encantadas Area Bedees | ||||||
6c 6c+ | ★★ Central Line | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and varied climb. Starts easy, getting gradually harder towards the top.
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