Ascents in Waipapa by Aidan Sarginson

Got surprisingly far accounted to all the on lookers. Super cryptic climb that would require some goes just to figure out the body positions

Worked the top move to understand the tension required. Just need to be sure of the lower crux and it's ready for send goes.

Warm up/hanging draws on Batman

Felt like a whanganui bay climb so points for that. Fun times. 22/23

Sudo grovelling in the corner down low to thuggy moves to the mantle. I'll take a climb 28 climbers struggle on. Waipapa 23 so could be 24 elsewhere

Grovelled up and worked out the beta. Also ripped a flake off the main wall. Still climbs the same

Warm up/to film Braden

One go to test how I felt/remember beta. Need to come back to this when I'm not jetlagged.

Warm up

Got all moves this session. Middle is dialed with the two hard moves being hard (duh) A contender for my first 27

Quality pitch. Would recommend doing the 2nd pitch if you're up there.

Hard smearing. If this is 22 then Popeye is 21. Could even be soft 23 as Robin felt slightly easier than this.

It is significantly easier than any of the other 23s at Waipapa. Even at 22 it'll be on the softer side.

Had a go to look at the moves. Had it to the last bolt clean. Felt holds and had individual moves. A lot of tension required.

Checking Kiera's placements

Warm up

Climbing it much better than the first time. Actually felt like 18 if you know some offwidthing and commit to the crack.

Glad I picked a climb with input holds due to the heat. Once I got through the bottom the top was cruisy Three star NI climb, two stars Waipapa

Worked out how to do the bottom boulder. Hot.

Putting up the draws and remembering moves

Crux 1: Know what to do, can do it (thanks to finding a new foot & Kiera's suggestion of stepping though) Crux 2: Know what to do, can't do it (weak fingers) Crux 3: Know what to do, can do it

Cleaned for everyones enjoyment

Cleaned for those who like thin trad climbing. Get at it

Worked 3rd bolt which will be the crux for me. Middle/top hard but easy. Maybe first 26 if I return.

Been meaning to try this for a while. Worked middle and top.

Putting draws on for Kiera

One of the most mossy climbs I've had the pleasure of climbing.

Awesome climb. Fun bottom and a good crack/slab above.

Checking out the climb again: Crux 1: Don't know what to do Crux 2: Know what to do, can't do it Crux 3: Know what to do, can do it

Repeat

Repeat

Hard

Worked the multiple cruxes. One to come back for

Hardest 18 I've done in a while. Foot jamming and chicken wings on a sport climb

Cleaning draws. Much better in the shade

Cleaned the route and worked out the moves.

Ran out of juice just before the triangle hold in the small seem.

Fell going for the small right hand crimp above 4th bolt

Fell at 4th bolt. Worked out the top sequence better.