Ascents as sport by CO3

Funny traverse at the end. Overgrown bushes and spiders trying to get into your mouth.

Annoying to clean on the way down.

I'll get it next time!

Gotta climb a bit higher than the anchor to stand stable.

That traverse to the left is a bitch.

Nice lil holds to shift your weight around on!

Staircase

Don't try this at the end of your climbing session when your fingers are already dead. You need your fingers.

VERY VERY polished, which spoils the fun, but also raises the difficulty a bit, which is a nice challenge. If you haven't checked before climbing, behind the peak before the last couple of bolts, there's a 1,5m drop where you can stand before continuing.

First 2/3 of this route super easy, (feels like a 6) and chill then the crux over the boulder before the end, all of a sudden, very polished foot holds or super tiny crimps and hand holds that force you in an awkward body position... Wondering if I missed some obvious move... (feels at least like a 7-)

Very thin (as in knife-blade sharp) plates up there used as hand and foot holds. Not sure they will hold in the long term and not so good for your shoe soles.

That start, man!

Super cool if you like tiny teeny footholds

Start on the right feels more like a 6a-6b move

Maybe it felt harder cause it was the end of the session and I was pretty tired by then. I would grade it somewhere between 5c-6a

The overhung passage on the boulder is a bit tricky, quite scary when going to the left.

Nice and smooth cruising. Two anchors at the top, both within reach. The one on the left has two permanent carabiners, doesn't need to be cleaned.

Technically 6a if you use the crack, I'd say 6a+ if you try climbing it without the help of the crack

Super nice and balancey, with lil foot holds and tiny hand holds. Gotta play with your bodyweight more, especially at the start. Loved it!

Start is very slick for a couple of meters.

Beta spoiler alert Easier and less dangerous to stand on the first ledge and then clip the first bolt, instead of hanging sideways in the crack on slippery rock and trying to clip at the same time.

Tricky start because of the slickness of the rock in the riverbed, but then it's all cruising top the top

The rock is a finger destroyer, very sharp. The route isn't technically difficult, except for the last part, where it supposedly joins the 6b 'Callejón oscuro' on the right (they share an anchor), which I didn't manage to climb. And you swing back quite a bit when you fall there. The obvious path up for the 'puta' keeps going straight up from the last bolt, but then you end up on a small plateau above the level of the anchor and you have to walk sideways and then lean on the rock from above to clip at the anchor. So, that's obviously not right.

The rock is really painful on the fingers and adds a layer of difficulty as it makes you feel like you can't hold on as long as you need to.

On the last part, between the last bolt and the anchor ring (of which there is only one, btw), the rock is very brittle and literaly breaks away, so you have to be careful when choosing the parts to use as holds.

I don't see how this got graded as a V+... Some holds look broken at the start, but even if they weren't, it still wouldn't feel like a V+.

I retreated after the 2d bolt. It is possible (though not recommended and also not exactly safe) to unclip from the 2d quickdraw and walk down from the side.

Also the rock is super abrasive and is a finger-destroyer

Super nice route to climb. Wouldn't have made it through the first overhung part without the tips from my instructor... beta-spoiler alert crack-style is the way to go. Will need to climb it again without falling. ^^

Got confused at first and started going up the crack, following the trad route, but was fun climbing back down a bit to then go more to the right and follow the right path. Really nice to climb the dragon's back !

Very nice to get a feel for crack-style climbing ^^

Very fun route with cracks.