Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 30th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
16 | Led Zeppelin - with Rox | 45m | ||||
5 years since I last did this and looks like probably no other ascents in that time. Second pitch is good.
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Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
10 ~14 | ★ Rhys' Pieces | 21m | ★ Good | |||
I'm not climbing well at the moment but this is way under-graded and quite run-out. Probably harder than SOTGT. Luckily my leader is a pretty calm and collected.
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Wed 9th Mar 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Baker's Wall | ||||||
17 | Squirrel | 25m | ||||
Bit of a toughie. Logical to combine this with Marcias but best done as 2 pitches as you really want your belayer to be watching closely on the crux.
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14 | Marcia’s Route - with Rox | 10m | ||||
Pretty good. If only it was longer. Good variety of pro, nothing bigger than a #3 needed despite appearances, though you could probably get a #4 in if you wanted.
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Wed 2nd Feb 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
17 | The Shipping News - with Rox | 68m | ||||
Started up Hurricane Lamp Cracks. Was running first two pitches together when I encountered a death block on the traverse. Belayed early to keep control of the ropes near the block then Rox finished the short bit left of pitch, which was a bit scrubby and dirty. Rox led top pitch which had an exciting overhang which apparently looks pretty spectacular from Oceanoid. Worth doing the top pitch via The Shroud. The second pitch would have to lose its detached block to be a reasonable proposition.
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Mon 11th Oct 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Touchstone Right Hand Finish - with Lou | 25m | ||||
Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
16 | Hermione - with Rox | 40m | ||||
Sun 17th Jan 2021 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
10 | Samos - with Ray | 110m | ||||
Good fun with little trace of previous ascents apart from the ancient pin(which has excellent alternatives) at the overhang.
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Sun 7th Jun 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
14 | Ball Terrier - with Lee, ray | 15m | ||||
Thu 4th Jun 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
14 | ★★ Libretto - CS Concerto combo - with Nod | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nod's first time on pitch 2 since 1967. The move into the corner is pretty hard for short people and the first moves up the arete are quite committing with less than the best gear.
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Sat 30th May 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area White Mice Walls | ||||||
11 | Right Hand Variant - with Nod, Norm | 40m | ||||
Looks like this hasn't seen an ascent in a decade or four. Good top crack. Windy as anything.
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Thu 23rd Jan 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
8 | Touchwood - with Nod | 70m | ||||
OK.
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Mon 13th Jan 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | ||||||
14 | Huldra - with Nod | 15m | ||||
Mostly bridging and quite short. Finish moves are good but pro for that isn't as good as it might be.
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Sat 4th Jan 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
9 | ★ Diagonal Crack - with Norm, Nod | 35m | ||||
Kept diagonally into Native Companion finish.
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12 | ★ Josie's Climb - with Nod | 50m | ||||
Pitch 1
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Wed 1st Jan 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
13 | ★★ Stalagmite - with Graham | 36m | ||||
11 | ★★ Dracula - with Graham | 40m | ||||
Wed 1st Jan 2020 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Muldoon - with Graham | 42m | ||||
Tue 31st Dec 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Mysteries Wall | ||||||
12 | ★ Gardener's Delight - with Graham | 60m | ||||
Tue 31st Dec 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
12 | ★★ Watchtower Chimney - with Graham | 110m, 1 | ||||
Sat 9th Nov 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
18 | ★ Trump Tower - with Nod | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Actually quite good climbing
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Mon 28th Oct 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★★ Saracen - with Steve | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hadn't done this for a while. Good value.
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Fri 25th Oct 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Skylark - with Steve | 85m | ||||
Both pitches as described.
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Fri 6th Sep 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Hurts - with Lou | 18m | ||||
Laps on a showery day
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Sat 31st Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
10 | ★★ D Major - with Barn, Norm | 50m | ||||
Sat 31st Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
14 | ★★ D Minor - with Barn, Norm | 35m | ||||
Sat 24th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall | ||||||
12 | Point the Bone - with Norm | 40m | ||||
Probably only the second ascent of this. Actually not too bad. Some quite nice moves in the corner and upper crack with good gear. As with most rarely climbed routes have to watch out for a few loose holds and blocks but don't have to rely on anything dodgy.
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Sat 17th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Syrinx - with Norm | 170m | ||||
First 2 pitches. Led the original first pitch and got a shocking rope jam. Took a few shenanigans to clear. Traversed to Nakablitz anchors.
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Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
8 | ★★ Tantalus - with Norm | 35m | ||||
Sun 21st Jul 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
13 | ★★ Ariadne - with Tibor | 120m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 27th Jun 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
19 | ★★ Touch-Type - with Nod | 25m, 2 | ||||
Finally got around to this. Chalk-free, found myself reaching for the missing chalk-bag a few times but my jacket being blown up around my ears provided suitable distraction.
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Wed 19th Jun 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ New Tricks - with Pat | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Started via first pitch of Comedy Of Errors. Adds probably 1 grade. A good afternoon out though the breeze got a bit chilly at times. 70m rope makes the rap descent cruisy.
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Sat 8th Jun 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
9 8 | ★ Lone Pine Corner - with Norm | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 7th Jun 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall | ||||||
18 | FA ★★ Zabriskie - with Nod | 22m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Aded second pitch. Stunning day.
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Thu 30th May 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with Pat | 35m | ||||
Sat 18th May 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
13 | ★ Leather Bound - with Steve, Brian | 40m | ||||
Via R-hand start. First time I've done this. Some good moves.
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Fri 17th May 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Absolutely Fabulous - with Steve | 88m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pitch 1
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Mon 13th May 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Discord Direct - with Pat | 25m, 2 | ||||
Haven't done this for a while. Found start hard.
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Sat 11th May 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece - with Norm | 33m | ||||
Sat 11th May 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Tremulo | 25m | ||||
Wed 27th Mar 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | ||||||
13 | Armpit - with Nod | 25m | ||||
Wanted to check a couple of things. Was easy to stick-place a good wire (#7) for the start. First move is crux, probably height-dependent, hard to grade, secure with the overhead wire. Finished at bolts on Reaper. Belayed and abseiled to make the start more secure for second. An option for people in the Preludes area on a warm day.
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Sat 19th Jan 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
18 | FA Ept - with Nod | 2 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 8th Jan 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
15 | FA ★ Kempt - with Nod | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 5th Jan 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
13 | FA Gruntled - with Norm | 20m | ||||
Sat 8th Dec 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
4 | Guiding Light P1 Variant (Guiding Light P1V) - with Norm | 35m | ||||
Hot day.
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Sat 8th Dec 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
16 | Flying Foxes - with Norm | 30m | ||||
12 | ★ Pure and Simple - with Norm | 30m | ||||
Sat 10th Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
10 | ★ The Crouded Hurricane Staircase - with Norm | 40m | ||||
Linked with Walk Like An Egyptian. Only went 3 or 4 metres up Spiral's second pitch gully then up right-hand line to link into the walk-around the arete in one pitch. Bomb-proof wire just after arete step-around to protect seconds. Top pitch was OK but not sure about the star. You can climb almost anywhere here so route-finding skills are useful. I'd recommend breaking this pitch on big ledge about 15m below top because of rope drag.
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4 | Walk Like An Egyptian - with Norm | 43m | ||||
Actually started around left up slabby rib, probably as for Kirsty and Jo's Climb approach instead of the start around right. Seemed more logical. Did as two pitches. Probably need to break into 3 with novices as you'd lose sight of them after the traverse.
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Tue 6th Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Death Row - with Kerrod | 45m | ||||
Tue 6th Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Turquoise - with Kerrod | 25m | ||||
19 | ★ The G Spot - with Kerrod | 23m, 1 | ||||
Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
13 | ★ The Lute (The Lute Direct) - with Lee | 45m | ||||
Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ Agent Orange - with Lee | 25m | ||||
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
18 | ★ The Iliad Connection - with Lee | 40m | ||||
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
13 | ★★ Hell For Leather - with Lee | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 7th Oct 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
8 | ★★★ Kestrel Alternate Finish - with Paul | 42m | ||||
Checking out that this climbs OK.
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Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
13 | ★★ Kestrel - with Paul | 50m | ||||
Wed 3rd Oct 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Echidna Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Old Mates - with Nod, Ray, Paul | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Took the hand-traverse start. The direct start may be better now the block has gone.
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Sun 30th Sep 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Shaggy's Route - with Lee, Ray | 110m | ||||
Belayed 5m higher on pitch 1 as the first 5m off the big ledge is unprotected and I have this thing about factor 2s onto the belay. Results in a small stance but excellent anchors. I'm not all that rapt in the anchors on the big ledge either. I assume most parties sling the huge block, which would be fine if it was sitting on a flat ledge but there's a bit of a slope there. Maybe I'm over-cautious.
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Sat 29th Sep 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Making The Point - with Ray | 25m | ||||
Fri 14th Sep 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Rolling Dice | 35m | ||||
Backed off lowdown. Couldn't get a runner to protect the final moves up the slab. Maybe just an off day. A bit confused about the directions. Seemed to start in the same spot as Top Cat, not 2m right of it, just 1m right of Saracen. Maybe go back for another look some time as it looks interesting.
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Fri 7th Sep 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Pacemaker - with Ray | 110m, 3 | ||||
Led all. Found the first crux hard but managed to not fall off. Not completely relaxed about the construction job holding bits of the next pitch together but it seemd to work.
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Tue 4th Sep 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
14 | ★ Minimus - with Nod | 12m | ||||
Long, long time since I've done this. Now I remember why.
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Sat 25th Aug 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
11 | ★★ Bastress - with Norm | 36m | ||||
Such an enjoyable pitch
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Sat 25th Aug 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Pfeffernusse | 23m, 1 | ||||
Beautiful day. Did the bolted start this time. Quite nice all round. The last section to the anchor is pretty interesting.
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Sat 18th Aug 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock North Mitre | ||||||
11 | ★★ The Archbishop - with Norm | 48m | ||||
Sat 28th Jul 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
18 | FA ★ To Say Nothing Of The Dog - with Nod | 77m, 4 | ||||
Mon 23rd Jul 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 16 R | ★★★ Brolga - with Forrest Templeton, Nod | 90m | ||||
Fri 13th Jul 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Syrinx Direct - with Nod | 130m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Approached this up The Lute rather than Syrinx. Traverse into Sunday Best was pretty sensational. Made the mistake of following the description literally and going straight up from the up-arrow. A bit sketchy with a run-out section exiting in moss. Think you actually follow Syrinx for a bit up right into the juggy groove that leads to the belay of Headbanger, a ledge on the left at about 20m. Would be best to belay here to break the pitch which would make the traverse much more enjoyable without the rope drag. Lots of slings to extend runners. Grade : don't know. Climbing not hard but the situation is wild. Protection is OK. We got a red camalot stuck just before the move to the U-bolt. Needed to abseil this morning to retrieve it; came out first go after the cold night. I'll work on a topo and edit the description a little.
It would also make a good finish to Deathwatch Beetle: do the third pitch of Headbanger to reach Headbanger's belay at the start of the traverse. And this climb needs a better name. |
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Sun 1st Jul 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air - with Pat | 30m | ||||
First time I've led this on a single. No rope drag even though I stitched it up.
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Thu 7th Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Dirge - with Pat | 85m | ||||
Tue 5th Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
18 |
★ Riding the Quayle
- with
Louise, Pat, Me
1
18
lead by
Louise
2
18
lead by
Me
3
18
lead by
Louise
4
| 130m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyable despite a bit of moss and lichen. Thought all pitches were of equal difficulty, certainly felt that I might fall off each of them. I think Louise might have gone more direct on the third pitch than the original, hence a bit harder than we were expecting. Or that could just be me.
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Sat 2nd Jun 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Antiques Road Show (Antique Road Show) - with Ed | 25m, 2 | ||||
Mon 7th May 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Flying Moose - with Ray | 23m | ||||
Was in the area and it is cool so went back to sort out the start. First time I did it I stepped right in the easy corner system instead of going straight up. Either will land you at the correct spot but direct way is better climbing (and cleaner).
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18 | ★★ Kaiser Resignation Direct - with Ray | 90m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 5th May 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Pan Grove | ||||||
16 | ★ Celeste | 25m | ||||
Sat 5th May 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Grand Design | 54m, 1 | ||||
Mon 30th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
17 | FA Beetlemania | 35m, 1 | ||||
Mon 30th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
11 | ★★ Phoenix - with Ray | 98m | ||||
Sat 28th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★ Kamikaze - with Nod, Norm | 20m | ||||
Sat 28th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
12 | ★ Bygone - with Nod, Norm | 30m, 1 | ||||
Fri 27th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Cantata - with Ray | 35m | ||||
Ptich 2 only
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Mon 23rd Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | ||||||
5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge - with Louise | 120m | ||||
Thanks to all the parties who let us jump the queue
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Thu 12th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Cheops - with Maureen, Ray, Brian | 20m | ||||
Sat 7th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
13 | ★ Lawrence - with norm | 100m | ||||
Top half only. Approached via rap down Western Desert and traversed in from chockstone to avoid the chossy first pitch. Found the start of the last pitch a bit hard - maybe I missed something or just faced the wrong way.
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Fri 6th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
17 | ★ Gunk In The Pimms - with Ray | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 6th Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
8 | Water Wings - with Ray | 25m | ||||
14 | Buttons - with Ray | 10m | ||||
Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Ethereal Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ Pibroch - with Maureen, Ray | 20m | ||||
Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Miss Moneypenny - with Ray, Maureen | 20m, 3 | ||||
Sat 31st Mar 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
14 | ★★ Touchstone - with Rohan, Norm, Ray | 60m | ||||
Fri 30th Mar 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
19 | ★ Greasy Burritos | 28m | ||||
Tue 27th Mar 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Velvet Green - with Ray | 25m | ||||
20 | ★ Mother Brown - with Ray | 25m, 3 | ||||
15 | Pfeffernusse Variant Start - with Ray | 23m | ||||
Mon 19th Mar 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Renovation Nation | 20m, 4 | ||||
Not even enough stamina for a route that needs no stamina. Should have read Wendy's note about protecting the clip of the third bolt.
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Tue 13th Mar 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Interlude - with Maureen, Ray | 35m, 2 | ||||
Fri 9th Mar 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Yo Yo - with Ray | 90m | ||||
Single pitch to top of Central Buttress then rap. Quite warm, even in shade.
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Wed 7th Mar 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Little By Little - with Pat Ford | 32m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally got onto this and it lived up to expectations. Got some good gear clusters on the top wall.
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