Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 1st Jun 2024 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Cova Petxina | ||||||
6c | ★★ Evolution - with Alejandro | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt quite in control throughout the lower section. Nevertheless, I was fairly pumped when reaching the chains.
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6c Hard | ★★ Anitesia - with José, nacho valenciano, Agustin | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
One go putting up the draws and working the sequences.
Then, inspired by Viet's send, I gave this a proper go and it went down smoothly. |
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4b | ★ El río - with José | 20m | Average | |||
Started left on the ramp and found it difficult for the grade. Probably should have climbed the chimney start
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5b | ★ El mamonet - with José | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Climbs nicely
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Sun 26th May 2024 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Ruinas | ||||||
5b ~5c+ | ★★ La Olla - with Sebastian Huland | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Harder than the left neighbor. Might make sense to swap grades.
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6a ~5c | ★★ El Higueral - with Sebastian Huland | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Initial holds also chipped. Nice but short further up.
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7a | El Campo - with Sebastian Huland | 8m | Don't Bother | |||
Pretty hard and fingery on almost entirely chipped holds
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6c ~6c+ | ★ Vanacloig - with Sebastian Huland | 10m | Average | |||
6a+ Hard | ★★ La Andenia - with Sebastian Huland | 10m | Average | |||
The start is harder than it looks
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de la Torre Can volador | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Aparente mente - with Falko | 15m, 7 | ||||
6aish climbing until the yellow streak. Then hard crimp and pocket pulling - too hard for me.
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7a | ★★★ Agorafobia — 2 attempts - with Falko | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Working a bit on the crux into the sidepull.
Falko and I were debating whether you were "allowed" to use the good pockets on the left to get to the anchor or whether you had to go more direct and straight up (harder). |
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Mon 20th May 2024 - Jérica | ||||||
Pared de la Torre Mestre de melodies | ||||||
6a+ | Gear on ★★ Donde no hay mata no hay patata - with Falko | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
The route goes a bit zig zag. Long quickdraws recommended. I also unclipped the bolt after the flake for less ropedrag.
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Sun 19th May 2024 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Fuente Peña María | ||||||
6c | ★★ Fumando María - with Sebastian Huland | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Felt better than I remembered. But still don't have a good sequence for the crux.
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5c | ★ Sin nombre (49) - with Sebastian Huland | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Bit dirty on top.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Ruinas | ||||||
6b+ ~6c+ | El Corral de Torres - with Sebastian Huland, Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa, Alfonso | 8m | ★ Good | |||
One rest at third quickdraw.
Still can't clip the second quickdraw properly. |
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6b+ ~6c+ | El Corral de Torres - with Sebastian Huland, Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa, Alfonso | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Putting up the draws - clipstick was my best friend.
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5b | ★ Cochichillas - with Sebastian Huland, Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa, Alfonso | 6m | ★ Good | |||
6c | ★ Maya Maya — 2 attempts - with Sebastian Huland, Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa, Alfonso | 12m | ★ Good | |||
First attempt to put up draws and re-learn the moves. Second to send.
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6a | ★★ La francesa nos bombardea - with Sebastian Huland, Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa, Alfonso | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Same same.
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6a Easy | ★★ Aceitunas Picantes - with Sebastian Huland, Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa, Alfonso | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 5th May 2024 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Fuente Peña María | ||||||
4c | ★ Levanta que es bueno! - with Sebastian Huland | 12m | Average | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Variante Peña María - with Sebastian Huland | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Today was not the day...
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Sun 5th May 2024 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Ruinas | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Isabella - with Sebastian Huland | 10m | Average | |||
As most of the routes here, this is basically just a boulder problem at the start - and then significantly easier. Hard to say whether I agree with the given grade, 6b+. Probably soft.
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6a Hard | ★★ Sin oficio ni beneficio - with Sebastian Huland | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Reachy
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Montesa | ||||||
La Mola de Montesa Pedra cristal-lina | ||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★ Xorrollera Pinza Hut - with José Maria, Lola, Toni, Inma, Rus | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Before reaching the tufa there is already quite a stretch to pass a relatively blank section.
The lower part of the tufa is still good, but the upper part was really hard - at least if you don't want to wander into the other routes that are really close. After a number of different holds for both hands and feet, I eventually found a combination and sequence through the tufa. But it was quite hard (6b+/c?). |
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7a+ ~6c+ | ★ Caxi-baxe — 2 attempts - with José Maria, Lola, Toni, Inma, Rus | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Found a new beta: jumping to the big hole with the left hand. That felt quite good and is way easier than trying to get there with the right hand.
I can imagine that this was graded 7a+ with the right hand beta in mind. But with the left hand beta it's maybe only 6c+...? |
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6b | ★★ Baltario, el frare escalador — 2 attempts - with José Maria, Lola, Toni, Inma, Rus | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Stuck the dynamic start move on the second go, the rest went smoothly.
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Wed 1st May 2024 - Montesa | ||||||
La Mola de Montesa Tormo Gros norte | ||||||
4b | ★★ L'amic Joan Grau - with José Maria, Lola, Toni, Inma, Rus | 16m | Average | |||
Sun 21st Apr 2024 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Fuente Peña María | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Variante Peña María — 3 attempts - with Sebastian Huland | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The third attempt was alright. Got about half-way between 3rd and 4th bolt. One rest, then to the chains.
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6a | ★ Alma de cántaro - with Sebastian Huland | 9m | Average | |||
Again the same warmup climb. With the sun in the face, the climb didn't flow well. Struggled more than I wanted.
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Fuente Peña María | ||||||
6b+ Hard | ★★ Sin nombre (46) — 3 attempts - with Sebastian Huland | ★★ Very Good | ||||
More attempts, but still lacking the power endurance to reach the jug.
The bottom part, including the start, goes well now |
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Ruinas | ||||||
6b Hard | ★★ Chelo — 2 attempts - with Sebastian Huland | 12m | Don't Bother | |||
This route is essentially just the start boulder. Not worth it.
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Real de Montroi | ||||||
Gac | ||||||
6c ~6c+ | ★★ All i oli de morter - with Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa | |||||
Super steep route. Feels a lot harder than the 6b+ on the left.
The rock quality in the overhang is not very good. It's crumbly at times and I can imagine that some of the crimps now won't be there anymore in a year. The biggest jug of the overhang was loose and I kicked it free on my way down. The good news is that there is still a good hold behind where the good jug was. In any case, the belayer should wear a helmet. |
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6b+ Hard | ★★★ Makako — 2 attempts - with Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The route has plenty of big holds - except for one section in the overhang where you have to pull hard and make a committing dynamic move to reach the third bolt.
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Fri 12th Apr 2024 - Real de Montroi | ||||||
Malló | ||||||
5b ~5c | ★★ Rempalago - with Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa | 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
4c | Mante - with Helios Carrasco Perez, Isa | 7 | Average | |||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Fuente Peña María | ||||||
6b ~6b+ | Gear on ★ Sin nombre (48) - with Falko, Sebastian Huland | |||||
A lot harder than I expected. Difficult to get over the lip.
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6b+ Hard | Gear on ★★ Sin nombre (46) - with Falko, Sebastian Huland | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting route. But the start - no surprise - is polished and hard.
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6c+ | ★★★ Variante Peña María — 2 attempts - with Falko, Sebastian Huland | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Again one rest at the third bolt. Still lacking the power endurance to climb straight through to the fourth bolt.
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6a | ★ Alma de cántaro - with Falko, Sebastian Huland | 9m | Average | |||
okay as a warm-up
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Thu 4th Apr 2024 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Aventador Mili | ||||||
6c ~6b+ | ★★ Coneiximent de mosquit - with Agustin | 26m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c ~6b+ | ★★ Coneiximent de mosquit - with Agustin | 26m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a+ Easy | ★★★ Jerónimo - with Agustin | 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 20th Mar 2024 - Gestalgar | ||||||
Zona Peña María Fuente Peña María | ||||||
5b | ★ Como agua vendita - with Sebastian Huland, Falko, José | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
6a+ ~6b+ | Ha nacido para la alegría - with Sebastian Huland, Falko, José | 12m, 6 | Don't Bother | |||
Tough start and then a hard and morpho middle section. Not sure why the local guidebook has this at 6a+. A grade around 6b+ or 6c seems more appropriate to me.
Comparing this directly to 'John no es Bon Jovi', this is definitely harder. Probably the hardest out of the "easy" climbs on the left side. |
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6b Hard | ★ John no es Bon Jovi - with Sebastian Huland, Falko, José | 12m, 6 | Average | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Variante Peña María — 2 attempts - with Sebastian Huland, Falko, José | ★★★ Classic | ||||
One rest at 3rd bolt
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5c | ★ Sin nombre (49) - with Sebastian Huland, Falko, José | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good warmup
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Tue 19th Mar 2024 - Real de Montroi | ||||||
Malló | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lujuria - with Agustin | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The first half is a technical and almost vertical slab. On the second half the wall angle is a more reclined and it's a relaxed climb to the top.
Beta: On the technical slab below I made the mistake of going up and right instead of heading left for the obvious big and chalked up ledge. I thought it would be too far left. However, there is a nice sidepull that brings you back into the center. My variant on the right felt quite a bit harder and I inwardly cursed the bolters for assigning such a "low" grade. If you keep to the left, then 6a+ is probably alright. |
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6a/a+ ~6a+ | ★★ Los lacayos de la mari - with Agustin | 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
There was not much magnesia on the route and I found this quite hard to read. The movements are really nice and I'm quite happy we did the route.
While climbing the 5 on the left, Agus kicked down the big loose block which sat below the overhang. While I don't think it makes a difference for the grade of the route, I do think it deserves 6a+. |
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5b ~5c | ★★ Rempalago - with Agustin | 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite interesting for a 5! Good warmup, I'd say.
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Buñol | ||||||
Carcalín Cueva Celta | ||||||
6a | Gear on ★★★ Dame más - with Falko | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Dame más! This corner-crack-climb is so much fun that you don't want it to end.
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6a+ Easy | Gear on ★★★ Vamonos pal sol - with Falko | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route. Quite some meters in the overhang, too, but the holds are so good.
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6b+ Easy | Gear on ★★★ ¿Y tú, pa qué entrenas? - with Falko | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second bolt pre-clipped.
Super route. Almost fell off between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Then easier terrain. A lot of good rests before the final overhang. Still got pumped doing the overhang and almost fell off. But was saved eventually by one of the good holes at the end. Compared to 'El jabalí no tiene pila' this route felt a lot easier. |
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6b+ ~6c | ★ El jabalí no tiene pila - with Falko | 22m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Hard start boulder. Not sure if there is an "easy" sequence for it. As long as I'm not aware of any, I'd give this a 6c just for the start.
The rest of the route is quite technical, lot of sloper holds and not always easy to read. Still recommendable. (But I would pre-clip the second bolt.) |
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Buñol | ||||||
Carcalín Corral de Cabras | ||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★★ Els Bunyolers — 2 attempts - with Falko | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second bolt pre-clipped.
On the first attempt I tried my luck with the crack - which was a bad idea as I couldn't get any purchase. Lowered down and did another attempt where I skipped the crack. Then that whole start boulder is actually quite interesting. Slab was harder and thinner than I remembered. But the feet are good, so with a couple of good rests I managed to keep it together till the end. |
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6a ~6a+ | Gear on ★★ Tita la fisurita - with Falko | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Good route. Would be very good if it was not for the polished feet at the crack.
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Fri 15th Mar 2024 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Master | ||||||
6c/c+ | ★★ Nombre desconocido (2) - with Rena | 11 | ||||
This route hasn't been climbed a lot, yet. There was no magnesia on it at all.
Bit awkward start, then alright until the big ledge. From here a desperate section on small crimps and bad footholds. The slab then eases a bit but remains challenging - not offering much for the hands. |
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6c | ★★ Lluvia negra - with Rena | 43m, 20 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some tricky sections in the vertical/steep wall. And then a never-ending slab.
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6b | Gear on ★★ Mecano en Dios (L1) - with Rena | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Altura | ||||||
Sargantana | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Sinfonía Kanabika - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Sebastian, Falko, Sören | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c ~6b+ | ★★ Taura D'abrila — 2 attempts - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Sebastian, Falko, Sören | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good route with ample rest positions.
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Altura | ||||||
Kan Pikola | ||||||
6a+ ~6a | ★★★ Sindrome de cobardía - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Falko, Sören, Sebastian Huland | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Huge holds throughout.
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6a ~6a+ | ★★ Trío de Mikeles - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Sebastian, Falko, Sören | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Hard move to get to the anchor. Maybe "6a+ hard"...?
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5c | ★ FanFan el escalador - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Sebastian, Falko, Sören | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Pego | ||||||
Placa del Sol | ||||||
6c | ★★ La fila de ta tia - with Isa | 25m | ||||
Crux felt hard. Not really sure I found the proper sequence. It seemed like you can reach the good pocket high up with the right hand if you place the feet high and twist sideways.
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6b+ | ★★ Borrego volador - with Isa | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | ★ Cabra loca - with Isa | 20m, 8 | ||||
6b | ★ Cabra loca - with Isa | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Pego | ||||||
Iniciació | ||||||
5c | ★ Ximet - with Isa | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A bit polished already
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Cova Petxina | ||||||
6c | ★★ Evolution - with Sebastian Huland | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Got through the crux, but then didn't trust my resi to continue.
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5c | ★★ Per a nones - with Sebastian Huland | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 25th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Altet Sol | ||||||
7a ~6c+ | ★★★ El guerrero pacífico - with Luis, Monica, Sebastian | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7a ~6c+ | ★★★ El guerrero pacífico - with Luis, Monica, Sebastian | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7a | ★★ Rokodromo - with Luis, Monica, Sebastian | 10m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
7a | ★★ Rokodromo - with Luis, Monica, Sebastian | 10m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6b+ Easy | ★★ Los demonios - with Luis, Monica, Sebastian | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
With the right beta it felt quite relaxed today.
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6a | Sin nombre (3) - with Luis, Monica, Sebastian | 5 | ★ Good | |||
Looks easy from below. Then you think, oh, this might be harder than I thought. But then you find the holds and realize it's not as bad.... 6a
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Barranc Fondo Escarcha Negra | ||||||
4c+ | ★★ Vía nueva (1) - with Sebastian Huland | 7m, 3 | Average | |||
Too short to be really engaging. Has one move where you need to stand up on a good foothold with poor hands.
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Barranc Fondo Estiu | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Moco de pavo — 2 attempts - with Sebastian Huland | 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Two more attempts working the route in toprope. Feels doable with a bit of dedication.
But may have to wait for next year. |
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7a | ★★★ Moco de pavo - with Sebastian Huland | 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The individual moves are not overly hard, but it's quite sustained. The big flake in the middle saves you temporarily. Having enough juice left for the bulge on top is another story.
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6a | ★ El pastiset - with Sebastian Huland | ★ Good | ||||
Great day at Barranc Fondo today. We had the entire place for us alone - and that on a Saturday.
The route is a good warm-up. I realized just in time that I had started up the 6b+ on the right. |
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6b | Gear on ★★ Pistacho - with Sebastian Huland | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt pumped at the end - despite the mostly big holds.
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Gandia | ||||||
Peña Roja de Marxuquera Fundició | ||||||
6c | ★★ A la sombra — 2 attempts - with Falko, Sebastian, José Manuel Martínez Martínez | 7m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This route asks a lot from you - and then some more.
Dogged my way up from bolt to bolt. Felt quite hard for 6c. |
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6c | ★★ A la sombra - with Falko, Sebastian, José Manuel Martínez Martínez | 7m, 4 | ||||
Turned around at second bolt
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6c+ Easy | ★★★ Última Alberténcia - with Falko, Sebastian, José Manuel Martínez Martínez | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Conditions were good today. And I managed to send on the first attempt - thanks to Jose who put up the draws.
I had imagined myself cruising through the crux today, but eventually it was a huge struggle. I kept going and barely made it to the jug above. Fingers numb from exhaustion and the cold. |
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5b | ★★ El Ser - with Falko, Sebastian, José Manuel Martínez Martínez | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Bellus-Alboy | ||||||
Cova Petxina | ||||||
6c | ★★ Evolution - with Sebastian | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had another go with the rope already in. Felt surprisingly easy this time. I also climbed it differently. Went left at the 3rd or 4th bolt instead of straight up - where the mono pocket gives you a hard time. That way it might very well just be 6b+(?).
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6c | ★★ Evolution - with Sebastian | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This was harder than I had thought when looking at it from below.
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5b ~5c | ★★ Casporillo - with Sebastian | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got lucky on this one. It started raining when I was almost at the chains already.
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5b ~5c | ★★ És Carlota - with Sebastian | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Many pockets and slots. Didn't feel easier than 'El bombonet de Pinet' to the left
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5c | ★★ El bombonet de Pinet - with Sebastian | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Would have been nice if the anchor had been put 1-2m higher
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Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Betxi | ||||||
Jurassic Park | ||||||
5 | Techín Techón - with Falko | Average | ||||
Strange route with unclear path. First you climb up this ladder which is no more than 3, and then you're supposed to haul yourself over the roof - which is no way 6a+ - instead of just stepping onto the roof from the right? And then the route continues to the top at difficulty 2. That just makes no sense.
So, I guess you can force it by wanting to do that roof, then it's this isolated thing and nothing in line with the rest of the route - and I don't think it goes for 6a+. A more logical route is to keep slightly right at the roof and just step over from the right (grade 4+/5?). |
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6a+ ~6b | ★ Joroba 2 — 2 attempts - with Falko | ★ Good | ||||
Botched the OS attempt going over the roof. Still strenuous but solid second go.
The topo from Apeu Muntanya on elev-arte has this route only at 6a while the Castellón guide from Luis Alfonso registers it as 6b. I agree more with the latter. |
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Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Betxi | ||||||
Vora Ríu | ||||||
6a ~5c+ | ★ Ampedrao - with Falko | ★ Good | ||||
There's always a good ledge that you can grab or stand on. Whenever you think you might have to climb actually, you can just reach up and there's the ledge already.
The top section feels a bit pointless. The last draw is placed quite low. I guess you'd easily fall on the ledge if you fell when clipping the chains. |
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6a+ ~6a | Torreata - with Falko | Average | ||||
In the end the bulge was easier than it looked. We both kept to the right at the first bolt to avoid the loose hold left of the bolt.
Went to the anchor of 'Per la paella' because we didn't know where the route actually goes. |
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4a | Esplai no sues | Average | ||||
Putting up the rope for the kids.
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Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Gandia | ||||||
Peña Roja de Marxuquera Fundició | ||||||
6c+ Easy | Gear on ★★★ Última Alberténcia — 3 attempts - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Santiago Martinez, Falko, Sebastian | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some good attempts on the route. Feels like it should go down next time.
Costa Blanca guide and Alpi Gandia guide both have this at 6c. Not sure yet, whether I agree. During the session today it definitely felt easier than last time. |
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5b | ★★ El Ser - with José Manuel Martínez Martínez, Santiago Martinez, Falko, Sebastian | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good warmup
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Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Gandia | ||||||
Peña Roja de Marxuquera Fundició | ||||||
6c+ Easy | ★★★ Última Alberténcia — 2 attempts - with Sebastian, José | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good |