Last time I (or possibly anyone) will do this route.
After having a few goes on it, I pulled past the second bolt and took a regulation fall. The dogbone of my draw on that bolt had rubbed sufficiently on the rounded edge just below the bolt that when I fell it snapped. The bolt below that then pinged off the wall, and I fell nearly 10 metres. Fortunately I bounced off my heroic belayer's shoulders and slammed into some rocks. This accident could very easily have been a lot worse.
The nature of the bolting on this route lends itself to either the rope or the quickdraws rubbing against the coarse rock. There is no way to protect this route without the potential for large swings that grind your life-saving equipment against jagged edges.
I would suggest taking extreme caution to protect your draws and rope before trying this route. Extending the draws mitigates the rope drag on the edge, but you should also consider a protective material between the dogbone and the rock.
You will also need to replace the first bolt, due to its rapid departure from the wall.
Really goodface climbing on an awesome feature.
However, the edges are very prone to breaking and there are only a few left on the entire route. Crux is between the first and second bolt low down where we pulled off about three of the best crimps which left only one tiny side-pull and one minuscule sloping footer until you get to the arete. Strong candidate for an upgrade considering the state at which it has deteriorated even in one session.
- with
Lachlan Craig