Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Walls of 2000 | ||||||
13 | ★ Shanes 2 | 11m | Average | |||
Rpt, the mantle at top was tenuous with only one hand
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag The Balconies | ||||||
18 ~19 | Jack Horner — 2 attempts | 6m, 4 | ||||
Couldn’t clip anchors. Had to do an inverted kneebar second go- Dave just reached past and had no problem.
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19 | ★ Tarzan | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The moves were ok, but fall potential left me nervous. Quite hard.
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Tue 27th Feb 2024 - Cathedral Rock | ||||||
19 | ★★★ With The Angels - with David Gray, jonty | 43m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Found the move off belay at start the hardest en route ( short arms). Second pitch just lovely. Led P2 and 3…..
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Mon 26th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Lost World Area Lost World | ||||||
23 | Naked Flame | 18m | ★ Good | |||
We came down to consider rebolting with anchors-feels sandbagged at 23 without bridging across chimney. Came to no decision. Weirdly it was chalked up
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Heat Pump
1
Good climbing in its own right
2
Spent ages in the middle shaking out and working out what to do. A few big reaches/ dead points in the first half sapped my energy | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
20 ~21 | Alpine Style | 22m, 8 | Average | |||
Pretty crappy climbing up to a hard and interesting crux sequence. Harder than any move on influenza. Not sure it’s worth the effort, but it filled in the afternoon.
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Influenza | 28m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Some nice moves once in the stemming groove. The 9 th or 10th bolt’s nut was quite loose. I finger tightened it, worth bringing a spanner
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Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Pension Day | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting enough, found it as tough as the other two, though may have been just reacquainting myself with the Pipes dolerite
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21 | ★ Game On | 28m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Intricate crux at about third height for me that was quite enjoyable. A bit stop/ start from half height
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22 | ★★ Boys Games — 2 attempts | 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Didn’t find this any harder than the 2 routes to the right ( though did a silly slip below crux).
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Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★ Black Lab | ★ Good | ||||
Not too bad for a late addition, though top a bit contrived and friable
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21 | ★ Guide Dog | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting lower section
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24 | ★ Jumping Jack Russells | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Did top section clean from below roof, but rained off after this.
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Waterfall Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Super Nintendo Chalmers | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. The little pockets were very slimy today. 2 laps.
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18 | ★ Ferns and Fings | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★ Roo Fing | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt. Very dirty
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17 | ★ Moss Monster | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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16 | ★ Fried Lichen | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
13 | ★ Ichi Knee | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
Original ascent was solo, weirdly coming up as red point. Rpt today
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19 | ★ Vertical Hanger | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Tue 19th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Fern Gully | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Jurassic Park | 31m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hopefully the predicted rain will settle the dust. Really great and varied moves and steeper than it looks. One go on TR to brush the holds then sent with a bit of power grunting and wobbling before we had to leave.
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Telapia | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Quite a tricky one
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Wed 13th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Careless Fingernicker — 2 attempts | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, needed a bit of a brush. Left hand crack glove/ tape useful for me. Unfortunately I had brought 2 right hand gloves ( duh!)
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Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
18 ~19 | ★ Hop | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Tricky start keeping left of arete. Stupid finish.
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22 | ★ Go Go Gadget | 18m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Shares a lot of holds with route to right
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20 | ★ Builder's Cleavage | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Palm Sunday | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, alzheimers os, the slimpers felt pretty slimy today
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20 | ★★ Tomorrow's Villians | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
17 | ★★ Yesterday's Heroes | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. A bit sandy, gave it a brush.
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Bullet Hole Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Mental Fatigue | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Unfortunately now crossed by another route.
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19 | ★★ Boris | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
It’s a squeeze but didn’t feel too contrived
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18 | ★ Fox Sox Pox | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt.
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Pimple Buttress | ||||||
11 | ★ ThreeSandShoes | 5m, 2 | ||||
Surprised to see a standard solo for many years now with bolts
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17 ~19 | ★ Abe Simpson | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I have this ticked as a solo, but I think that was Plum Duff. This is almost a retrobolt of Pimple and of similar difficulty
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13 ~8 | WallowWall | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Another questionable route
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3 ~1 | ★★ Abseil Slab | 12m, 2 | Crap | |||
Seriously, I walked down this with no hands and the dog ran up it. Needs to disappear.
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
21 | ★ Gastric | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Some worthwhile committing moves on this off poor holds. Climbs completely independent of route to left to same anchors
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18 | ★ Show Bag | 13m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt. The first bolt position is not in a good location for this route, it works better for Gastric. Hard start for grade.
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Historic Wells | ||||||
24 | ★ Evil Deeds with Good Intentions | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Got to third bolt but not a good one to have done on trashed tips.
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Electric Blue Area | ||||||
23 | ★ Under Pressure | 32m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Ate away my finger skin going direct on the crux. Mc Dougalled a bit in the end as I could hold the sloper and get feet up well with a half pad undercling but couldn’t reach the good hold
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18 | ★ Frisky Two Times | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Much better than I was expecting
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ The Arrow and the Song | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
The one I hadn’t done. Finished up Karinya by mistake. Found going direct at 3rd bolt quite tough for grade
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Steep Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ School's Out | 12m | Don't Bother | |||
Contrived.
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd The Dam Cliffs Mossy Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ B1 | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Better than route to left
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19 | ★★ Matador | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
Crap rock, only good move is the starting mantle ( if you don’t chimney)
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Blackwall | ||||||
Red Head Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Suspenders Will Do It | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, another bouldery number, probably my favourite route, had to brush sand out of all the incuts
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Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Foster Falls | ||||||
Crime Buttress | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Standing Room Only | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Felt a bit pumped for a route that wasn’t too steep.
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Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Foster Falls | ||||||
Dihedrals | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Narcissism | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice climb in 3 parts
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5.9 | ★★ Twist and Shout | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun and interesting arete, now off to the airport
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5.11a | ★★ Pillsbury | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Lovely technical finger seam
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Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Foster Falls | ||||||
First Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Tea and Strumpets | 4 | ★ Good | |||
Tough crux for shorter people
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5.10a | Crawdaddy | 4 | ★ Good | |||
Felt stout as a warm up
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Mon 30th Oct 2023 - Obed National Park | ||||||
North Clear Creek The Inner Circle | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Double Trouble | 4 | ★ Good | |||
Works ok as a warm up in the rain. Temps gone from about 24 C to 9 C max in Tennessee.
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5.11c | ★★ Stop-n-Shop — 2 attempts | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very bouldery start, took me quite a few attempts to get as hard to work due to bolt being way behind you. Above easier climbing, though second roof fun. Two main attempts
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Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Obed National Park | ||||||
Lilly Bluff Left Side | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Rocking Chair | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Quite a steep little number. Good into to the blocky rock.
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5.11b | ★★ Loung Lizard — 2 attempts | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt Australian 23. Very cruxy, Had to work hard second go, the steep crimp section is quite full on
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5.11a | ★★★ Whippersnapper | 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely climb , several fully horizontal moves but extremely juggy.
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5.10a | ★★ Tarantella | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very traddy start and chicken heads galore.
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Military Wall | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ All Things Considered | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Last climb at RRG this trip, wish we had got on this earlier. One go only to clean. Got to half way, had rest, all moves quite ok
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5.10c ~5.10d | ★★ In the Light | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Not much easier than the 11c I Onsighted at the Gallery
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5.9 ~5.10a | ★ Sunshine | 15m | ★ Good | |||
A feisty warm up.
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Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Gallery | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ A Brief History of Climbing | 23m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Insane steep plates and a good move near the start.
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5.10b | ★ Murano | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another great 10 b
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5.11d | ★★★ Gold Rush | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Aussie Ryans draws were on so I thought I would have one more go and clean the, for him-came off above last bolt again.
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5.11c | ★★ Different Strokes | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Shortish but nice movement and a hand jam
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5.10c ~5.10c | ★★ DaVinci's Left Ear | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Harder than some 11as I have been on here. But really liked it , technical and hard
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Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.10c | ★ A Wave New Wolrd | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Misread the dihedral bit and had to reconsider. Rest straightforward.
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5.10d | ★★★ Breakfast Burrito | 24m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice route, glad the crux draw was on I have to say.
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5.12a | ★★★ Hakuna Matata — 2 attempts | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Felt the need to get back and redpoint this before we leave. Found the redpoint crux up high first go and refined beta before getting it second go. We also took a few finger sized nuts and cams and made use of them. Kamikaze ladybugs everywhere at the top of the routes today.
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow Bronaugh Wall | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Crumblies — 2 attempts | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Needs to brush the slopers at the start a fair bit, very greasy and overchalked. Few goes to first bolt, went to top, clean second main attempt. Love the kneebars.
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5.9 | ★★ 5.10 Until Lee and Jeff Do It | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Just another steep pocket pulling adventure.
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5.10a | ★★ My Mind Escapes Me | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clearly been on too much steep stuff, this route made me whimper. Nice feature
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Gallery | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ The Last Supper — 2 attempts | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tried Daves way first go, and too reachy, but would have come off subsequent move anyway. Really nice climb, liked the sting in the tail.
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5.10b ~5.10c | ★ No Brain, No Pain | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The start was about the hardest moves I did all day. Definitely deserves grade 20 Australian
|
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5.9 | Crimpy and the Brain | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Some thoughtful moves but not inspiring.
|
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Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Whipstocking | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was a nice climb, fun.
|
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5.11c | ★★ Spirit Fingers | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The crux was definitely the thin seam, felt grade 23, the rest was just pump management and plain fun.
|
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5.10b | ★ Make a Wish | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
The start felt like one of the harder moves all day. Got here early to beat crowds but didn’t really work.
|
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Thu 19th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Bob Marley Crag | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Toker | 21m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not a bad hold on it. I dislike jump starts, but this one wasn’t too bad.
|
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Wed 18th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Fire and Brimstone | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two sit down rests and some nice airy climbing. Found it pretty easy.
|
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5.10b | ★ Slick and the 9mm | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Quite enjoyed this as a warm up
|
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Grandpa Joe's Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Wonkaholic | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Again came down looking like a snow storm had hit me blowing off the ridiculous excess of chalk. Nice arete otherwise.
|
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Snozzberries Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Hip To The Jive | 20m, 7 | ||||
One sit on last bolt on second go. Fell off first go with heel toe cam in for an exciting fall. Excessive chalk and very pumpy but good power endurance training. After 2 weeks at the RRG I might be ready to climb here!
|
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Grandpa Joe's Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Grandma Josephine | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
10 b on MP and that feels fair ( Aust 19). Must have cleaned up, only a bit sandy right at the top
|
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5.9 | ★★ Grandpa Joe | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Good warm up. Overchalked. Loose chalk should be banned. It’s really pissing me off. Ruins the friction of the holds.
|
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5.10c | ★ Snarf Victory | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
10c in the guide. Quite nice and less polished/ overchalked than other routes
|
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Left Flank | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Hen-ry! | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Lead it with some falls around 3rd bolt. Then clean from 4 th bolt and too scared to fall. Repeated clean on TR as didn’t fancy the fall around arete again. A bit like a Wards hill first wall route on crimpy ironstone- so not worth travelling the world for.
|
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5.8 | ★ Mr. Bungle | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice enough for grade, reasonably graded and bolted
|
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5.10a | Fast Food Christians | 18m, 7 | Crap | |||
Not worth the skin I spent on it at the reachy start
|
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5.10a ~5.10b | ★★ To Defy the Laws of Tradition | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Ok, but feet at start polished worse than limestone crags, plus too much chalk. Crux hard for shorter people.
|
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Military Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Danita Dolores | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice arete, had to add a rock to starting cairn to reach starting holds!
|
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5.11c | ★★ Minumum Creep | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
One fall at second last bolt where the massive holds disappear and there’s desperate chalk smears on crap holds. Got back on and went to end. The overhanging laybacking 5.9 dihedral was harder- tore my palm.
|
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5.10a | ★ Stay Left | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
It was ok, all other warmups occupied. Spaced bolts
|
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5.10d | ★ Possum Lips | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Even get forearm pump on the slabs
|
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Thu 12th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | ||||||
5.12b ~5.12a | ★ Clean Shaved — 2 attempts | 21m | ★ Good | |||
Not 12b. Given 11d on MP, 24 Australian seems fair. I don’t have the reach for the “ single move” even with super high feet, but did multiple crimpy moves immediately right of the bolt that worked out well.
|
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5.10d | ★★ Booby Prize | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice enough on its own, but really a link up of two routes
|
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5.11a | ★★ G-String | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke
|
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Much easier than all the 5.9 trad classics at NRG, could also be led on trad safely.
|
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Exoduster | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Fora short route it packed a punch. A gnarly warm up for me
|