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description

Climbs the obvious crack at the south western edge.

P1) 120ft, off-width crack slinging chockstones for pro, turns into squeeze chimney.

P2) 100ft, Move to the back of the chimney, then climb a hand crack and belay on top of a chockstone.

P3) 100ft, up a 5.10 hand crack, protecting with BD #1 cams. Chimney narrows to a stem, leading up to drilled warthogs at an arch.

P4) 50 ft, up a slab for 20 ft, go right, then another 20 ft to large ledge and detached block/flake.

P5) 50 ft, up the detached block and aid through 3 bolts.

Descent: It is possible to rappel the route. Or, traverse the mesa and descend the "Mountaineers Route", although the top can be difficult to find first time.

Route history

First ascent: Earl Wiggins, Katy Cassidy & George Hurley

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 38.67061, -109.40529

Grade citation

5.9 Assigned grade
5.9 Richard Pattison

Quality

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Karl Kelley

Date: 2022

ISBN: 978-1-954040-14-4

Sharp End Publishing:
Towers, crags, boulders—it's all in Moab, Utah. With Sharp End Publishing Moab Climbs: High on Moab, you can plan the perfect climbing trip.
  • Longtime Moab-local Karl Kelley draws from the town's climbing community and decades of experience climbing and developing routes on the world-class sandstone
  • Describes 1,000 of the very best climbs in Utah's picturesque red rock desert

Author(s): Stewart Green

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781493039357

FalconGuides:
Ideal for climbers who want to hit as many routes as possible in a weekend or short visit, Best Climbs: Moab showcases a variety of can't-miss, world-class climbs out in the Moab desert.
  • Longtime desert climber Stewart Green provides visually appealing, to-the-point information to guide you to the very best routes in the desert surrounding Moab
  • Includes climbs from multi-pitch traditional-style gear routes on beautiful sandstone towers to stellar, moderate sport climbs at Wall Street

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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