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Routes in Orroral area

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,087 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
15 Penny Direct

Straight up the bolted slab between Penny and Chopper

Sport 18m, 2 Orroral area
11 Pseudopossum

An easier variant of Possum. Start from the first belay on Possum.

  1. 16m - Right along the ledge from the belay then back left up a ramp to join the second pitch of Possum at the end of the traverse; up to the big ledge.

  2. 10m - Walk up the slab and corner behind the trees.

FA: Unknown

Trad 26m, 2 Orroral area
V8 Slabbin It

Start low on good holds, try not to get tangled between the crossing over and heel hooks, and pull out your best slab master to get to the top.

Boulder 4m Orroral area
22 Indelible Murtceps

The third crack from the left on 'five cracks wall'. Up the groove to the bulge then up the finger crack to the top. Tape recommended.

FA: Roark Muhlen & Peter Mills

Trad 25m Orroral area
19 Gutz Direct Start

The steep, wide crack in line with Gutz, below Hortensia.

FA: John Fantini

Trad 6m Orroral area
Antbiter

Stand start and up via the angled crack. Watch out for the ants.

BoulderProject 4m Orroral area
29 Truth

Start as for Boy's Brigade to the good holds on the traverse then take the water streak straight up, following the bolts, for a muscle fatiguing experience. A desperate direct start past one bolt awaits an ascent.

Set: Chris Warner & Jamie Valdivia

FA: Jamie Valdivia, 2000

Sport 25m Orroral area
V1 Jerry Garcia

Located on the back of the boulder. Stand start from centre of slab then climb up and top out.

Boulder 2m Orroral area
7 Geology Lesson

Walk in to the top of 30 Degrees,

Tend left up the dyke and through intermittent cracks. Well protected by gear

TradProject 20m Orroral area
Project

Landing built and problem cleaned (excluding top-out). Stand start from LH sidepull RH corner has been tried and should go. If the sit start from the right can be added it will be a very good/hard problem.

BoulderProject 7m Orroral area
16 The Hyperspace Express Route

Start as for Deep Space. Initially up the pinnacle and at 5m take the right-hand crack straight up. After the horizontal break go straight up the slab past a couple of carrot bolts. Another carrot then rejoin Deep Space at the steep headwall before the ledge.

FA: Wade Stevens

Mixed trad 80m, 3 Orroral area
V8 Bull Traverse

Start low down on two crimps at the furthest left of the boulder, no feet and small crimps lead into the start of the flippster. Take a 7 if you start a little further in.

BoulderProject 7m Orroral area
21 In-your-endo

To the right of 'Bad Press' is an entrance to the cave. This route is directly ahead of you as you enter the cave.

Straight up the wall.

FA: Ben Jones

Sport 2 Orroral area
22 Gentleman's Agreement

Superb slab climbing leading to an exciting conclusion. Start at the obvious leftwards ramp.

  1. 35 metres (21) - Up the ramp and diagonally left past two bolts to where the ramp continues. Up the seam to belay under the handcrack in the roof.

  2. 7 metres (22) - Through the roof!

FA: Ken Luck, Paul Daniel, John Churchill, Liz Milbourne & Anne Hastings

FFA: Ken Luck & Liz Milbourne, 1991

Mixed trad 42m, 2 Orroral area
7 Little Jack's

Start 10 metres below and just to the left of Jack's Crack. A pathetic rising traverse left across a slab, then up a short corner. Scramble to the top as for the second pitch of Overhang Corner.

FA: Unknown

Trad 30m Orroral area
20 Moth... Yellow Brick Road Connection

This is a popular combination of routes that offers sustained climbing up 'The Prow'. From 'Moth' (or 'Place Without a Postcard') continue up 'Madrigal', followed by 'High at Kites' or 'Jett Arete' and finish up the second pitch of 'Yellow Brick Road'.

FA: Unknown

Trad 120m Orroral area
25 Non Caffeinated Organism

In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top.

Scramble up and start from the top of the boulder that creates the halfway ledge on the left side of the route. Belaying from the ground level of the cave is best. Place a low cam and then lean out to clip the bolt, pull out onto the face and hard, technical crimping out to the right leads to a delicate slab to the top.

The direct start past one bolt from the ground level is now an open project - all yours if you want it!

FA: Duncan Brown

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, 23 Mar 2019

Mixed trad 20m, 6 Orroral area
15 Determinant (extended)
1 15
2 15
3 15
4 12
5 15

A wandering climb with a good exposed slab and a classic crack finish ('Terminant Corner'). Start where the track first touches the 'nose' of the cliff, at a short steep-looking hand crack with two smaller ones either side.

  1. 20m (15) Up the short crack to a ledge. More easily to the base of a slab split by a thin crack straight ahead and a wider one further left. Step left into the left-facing layback crack. Up this to belay on the large bushy ledge.

  2. 20m (15) Climb the short corner behind the tree. Up the slab with gear in horizontal breaks out right, then a bolt up high, to gain another large ledge (the top of the original route's first pitch).

  3. 30m (15) From the left side of the ledge move left across the slab (crux), then up and left to a short corner crack to 'The Prow'. Belay on gear or the rap station at the left side of 'The Prow'. Climb straight up off the belay on very easy ground to get good high protection for the slab.

  4. 55m (12) Climb the right-hand side of the block above the rap station, then traverse right along the break and up a narrow slab. Continue easily up the bushy ramp to tree belay below the prominent corner.

  5. 35m (15) Up the corner crack. Head left to avoid the lichen-filled wide crack, step up a level then back right to finish with a step across the void.

FA: Pitches 3-4 Tony Wood, Peter Aitchison 1968, Pitch 5 Peter Aitchison, C Aichison, G Hodges 1968., Pitches 1-2 Brett & Damo 2018

Mixed trad 160m, 5, 1 Orroral area
Project Andrew
SportProject Orroral area
11 Ferrous negotiations

Walk in to the top of 30 Degrees, Tend right up the continued slab

SportProject 20m Orroral area
16 Hyper Space Express Route-Sickle

Add the final pitch of Sickle to take you to the top.

Trad 90m Orroral area
20 The Gingerman

The rightwards curving crack on the wall above and to the right of 'Mushroom Rock', originally with one aid move.

FFA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth

FA: Ian Lewis & Damien Jones, 1974

Trad 20m Orroral area
16 Achille's Armpit

Hideous, don't say you weren't warned. Start in the cave, graunching up the chock filled chimney to a leftwards weakness. Follow this to under an overlap and step left around an arete to a ledge.

FA: Lincoln Hall

Trad 25m Orroral area
22 Only for My Ego

The line of bolts one metre right of 'Power Cat'; a bad joke even by sports climbing standards.

FA: Unknown

Sport 12m, 2 Orroral area
11 Boulder Choke

A useful access route to 'The Platform'. Start as for 'Dead Horse Gap'.

  1. 43 metres - Walk inside the chimney, scramble over some boulders, then up the slab. Walk up to the end of the gully to belay.

  2. 7 metres - Chimney up into the boulders, exiting through a hole in the roof.

FA: Unknown

Trad 50m Orroral area
17 Jubilate - Outer Limit Combination

A number of possibilities exist for good combinations of pitches. The most obvious is the first two pitches of 'Jubilate' followed by 'Outer Limit'.

FA: Unknown

Trad 61m, 3 Orroral area
21 Crushed Crack

Start ten metres left of (and around the corner from) Idle Moments. Climb the finger crack, widening up higher.

FA: "Crushed"

Trad Orroral area
Access route

On the back of the central boulder is a single-bolt climb used to access the top, where there is an abseil chain.

Sport 1 Orroral area
Roof project
BoulderProject Orroral area
Project

about 10m left of 'Blood on the Cracks' is a short, slightly overhanging crack.

TradProject 6m Orroral area
V3 Batfink

Sit start to THC.

Boulder 4m Orroral area
Left of The Other Problem

Sit start as for The Other Problem. Head left on the crimps then battle the mantle.

BoulderProject 3m Orroral area
18 Outer Limit - Jubilate Combination

A sustained combination at the grade up the left hand side of 'The Central Slabs'. Climb the first pitch and part of the second of 'Outer Limit' followed by the third and fourth pitches of 'Jubilate'.

FA: Unknown

Trad 110m Orroral area
18 Crack left of Tea Bag

FA: Unknown

Trad Orroral area
V5 Mantle king

Stand start on good matched hold and mantle the nose, down and left of the slabbin it boulder, this boulder has 3 or 4 other lines on it that have been done, update with photos soon

Boulder Orroral area
21 The Renaissance Man

Short slab arete with a hard start.

Set: Duncan Brown

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Sport 10m, 2 Orroral area
V5 Fumbling flakes

Start on jugs at head height follow-up obvious flake line far right of the boulder, potential for an extra few grades if you start at the same place as The Bull traverse. Spot well as the rocks is a little crumbly still. Link ups between the two flakes are also good and worth doing- however not separate climbs

Boulder 5m Orroral area
AID:A2 Unfinished aid project

Branch out from Vertigo at mid height and head for the tiny seam to the right. Lower off fixed biner. The rest of the route (unclimbed) would be bat hooks and bolts to the top.

FA: Chris Fitzgerald

AidProject Orroral area
16 Deep Space - Sickle

The first two pitches of 'Deep Space', followed by the last pitch of 'Sickle'.

FA: Unknown

Trad 90m, 3 Orroral area
V3 Fat and Lazy
Boulder Orroral area
V8 44 Home

Stand start matched on good rail, big move up to blind pinch and then work your way up and around the boulder

FA: Nick Churchill

Boulder Orroral area
17 Morsehold left crack variant

No current description available.

FA: ??

Trad 45m Orroral area
V5 Dead Presidents
Boulder Orroral area
V6 One Rail

Just to the left of 44 Home, climb up the steep two faced wall, looks like you can stem and it will be easy.....good luck. starts on good rail out right

BoulderProject Orroral area
17/18 Triphong

Adds a great left leaning hand crack, and a bombay chimney to the best pitches of Dipthong. (or it could be the original if you take the route description with a lot of salt) Start 3 meters left of Dipthong at a slanted crack or chimeny

  1. 10m, climb the dirty crack on the right or the chimney to a stance on a dirt ledge

  2. 15m, climb the left leaning hand crack out to the arete before pulling back right and into the Bombay chimney to emerge on the ledge below Diphong's third pitch.

  3. Finish up the fun pitches of Diphong

Set: Dane Evans

TradProject 4 Orroral area
14 Galvin is my favourite

The line of bolts up a very nice textured slab. The deathtrap aluminium hangers have been replaced

Sport 25m, 6 Orroral area
Campus King project

Start at the furthest left end of the boulder, powerful move straight up then mantle.

Boulder 4m Orroral area
V4 Gluten Free

To the right of noble rise

Boulder Orroral area
8 Heresy

Up the crack until it runs out, then step right to the bolts

Mixed trad 10m, 1 Orroral area
Unnamed project

Just left of the Skin It Back alcove, on the valley side, is this line of shiny bolts up a vertical wall. Rumoured to be an old Matt Rizzuto project. There is also a single bolt to its right, which would make a hard bouldery start to the arete above.

SportProject 4 Orroral area
20 Metal Fatigue - Stele Breeze Combination

Two great pitches up 'The Northern Slabs'. Climb the first pitch of 'Metal Fatigue' and then traverse left to join the second pitch of 'Stele Breeze' at the bolt.

FA: Unknown

Mixed trad 80m, 2, 3 Orroral area
22 Dynamo Hum

This wall was bolted and climbed by Crushed and Dave Sargent, but they aided it (19M1) and didn't bother naming it. Start as for 'Terminant Corner'. Climb up the corner and out onto the wall. Hard moves past three bolts lead to the arete and a crack. At the ledge, go up the crack to a good finish which hand traverses left.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Dave Sargent

FFA: Joe Lynch & Mike Peck, 1986

Mixed trad 30m, 3 Orroral area
V1 Beer Gut Roof
Boulder Orroral area
V0- Warmup 1

FA: Willem Ryan

Boulder 3m Orroral area
9 Sunstroke Variant P2-3

2b. 20m - From the first belay, climb the groove for six metres and traverse right to a parallel crack; climb this and the large blocks to a good stance.

3b. 25m - Move left across the slab, back to the main groove and third belay.

FA: Unknown

Trad 45m, 2 Orroral area
V10 Whales Tale

Whales tales starts with both hands down low on the sharp flake (matched as low as you can) and moves up the arete via the big sheild. The stand start (V8) starts with one hand on the arete right hand crimp and left hand on the face crimp a bit higher up. Tall man beta might drop a grade on both of these.

Boulder 6m Orroral area
V7 Nobel Rise

The first arete you come to

Boulder Orroral area
7 Bolt for a bolt

Straight up the slab past the intrusion at 2 meters

Sport 10m, 3 Orroral area
Obvious Flaring offwidth

As it says on the label

UnknownProject Orroral area
16 Over the Hill

The crack on the left on the southern side, which narrows in the middle.

FA: Unknown

Trad 10m Orroral area
The Belfry - slab start

A meter left of The Belfry is a vague scoop with a couple of bolts (first one is missing a hanger as of july '18). Details unknown but appears to be a start to the Belfry that skips the wide stuff.

Mixed trad 2 Orroral area
Project- closed

The arête at the end of the chimney has been bolted. It’s either an easy ~12 ish chimney or a hard dyke climb.

SportProject Orroral area
Unnamed arete

The flakey overhanging arete on the left edge of the boulder left of 'Vertigo' (i.e. down and right from 'Pass the Kettle') has been bolted but not claimed.

TradProject Orroral area
13 Belfry Access Route

The easiest way to the top. Wander up a series of chimneys, starting near 'Return of the Etrier', to a ledge. Climb the mossy slab from the ledge to the summit (poorly protected).

FA: Unknown

Trad 15m Orroral area
V12 Stand and Deliver

Stand start on two tiny crimps, move up and right to the big shield and then top out the proud arete

Boulder 6m Orroral area
V10 Tree hugger

Start low matched on arete crimp, head up arete for a few moves make some big moves across right to a good crimp, followed by some tricky moves to end up with feet on this crimp. (may have already been done please let me know if it has)

Boulder Orroral area
13 Short sighted

Step left off the block to gain the steep slab. Pad up this to the top

Sport 10m, 3 Orroral area
Only for the Devil - proj Dane

Up the South corner of the 'Demon' block above Oxygen Arete - Rap off bolts on top that serve mostly to TR Demon

SportProject 6 Orroral area
Project Barten (open)

Starts at a short crack. Pass many bolts up the slab to lower-off. Re-equipped but still waiting for a clean ascent.

SportProject 27m, 10 Orroral area
24 The Polymath

A short, sharp, thin tips crack. Difficulty dependent on finger size.

FA:

Trad 7m Orroral area
16 Random Route Direct Finish

The direct finish!

Trad 12m Orroral area
20 Echidna

This route starts at ground level 3 meters left of a squeeze chimney.

  1. 20, Up the wall to a bolt, tend left onto the slab to another two bolts.

  2. 14, From the ledge (start of Watch Me), tend left past another two bolts, one of which actually has a hanger.

FA: Unknown

Mixed trad 20m, 2, 5 Orroral area
19 Rubbishman/Outer Limit combination

Continues on with the third pitch of "Outer Limit"

Trad 180m, 6 Orroral area
Project Chris Warner (open)

The bolted arete directly below the chossy approach slab and opposite Julius Caesar. Very delicate arete climbing on bolts to chain

SportProject 18m, 8 Orroral area
15 Dead Fingers Run

Start as for Dead Fingers Talk, heading left up the ramp

Trad Orroral area
Devil in my ear - Dane

The arete right of 'Demon'. An easier variant, but the ground is further away. Not that it'll make a difference really.

TradProject Orroral area
21 Confessions of a Stripper/Purple Haze combo

See description above.

Trad 30m Orroral area
V8 Squeeze the loaf

Start on crimp on the arete, some smooth compression moves up sees you matched the sharp arete hold a few meters off the ground. (probably done by someone else, feel free to change)

Boulder Orroral area
V5 Dragline

An obvious line on 'Barrel Boulder' that begins in the depths, on slopes, whilst lying on your back.

Boulder Orroral area
13 Practice Slab

Climb the block, leap the void onto the boulder - scramble to the top and retrace your steps. Once an initiation climb for the area and must only be climbed in volleys. Somewhat spookier now that it is mossy, but at least there's a log plugging the gap again.

Trad 8m Orroral area
V10 Bakers Dozen SS

Sit start as for Bakers Dozen.

FA: Zac Vertrees

Boulder Orroral area
Unknown 80s route

There's a steep north-west facing wall, with 4 right angle hangers

Sport Orroral area
10 Walking Crack

The crack left of Running Crack - just not quite as good, and often slower with all the bushes.

FA: Unknown

Trad Orroral area
V0 Warm up

Many eliminate's can be made on this boulder problem. Start low on crimp jugs and cruise to the top.

FA: Justin Ryan

Boulder 5m Orroral area
16 Hermes, Fearon combination

This is generally the way Fearon is climbed. Climb the first pitch of Hermes to the start of Fearon.

Trad 74m, 3 Orroral area
7 Unnamed

The chimney between the slab block and the back of poachers forms a nice start to Skyline

Trad 4m Orroral area
V7 Barrelfest

Starts on a very low jug to the left; up to a slope and out right to a powerful undercling, finishing on more slopes.

Boulder Orroral area
Open project

Start as for Rocketman up the thin crack. Climb diagonally up and right across the face, passing a bolt. Finish up the flake/crack on the upper face.

Mixed tradProject 25m, 1 Orroral area
18 Baryon Direct Variant

Probably climbed before as obvious line, alternate, better and harder variant on broken and very loose flake on pitch 2 of Baryon. From belay for P2, delicately straight up via thin crack to join Baryon at poised blocks. Finish as for original route.

Trad 20m Orroral area
24 Hitler Youth

Just left of Frog Tactics. Up past six bolts to lower-off. Early crux and watch your back on the block if you fall.

FA: Chris Warner

Sport 20m, 6 Orroral area
V4 Our Daily Bread

Stand start on good crimps, end up on a good high crimp with feet on the ledge. Another variant for an extra grade heads left from the start holds and ends in the same place.

Boulder Orroral area
V1 Try Troy's Traverse

This has probably been done before but is worth recording as it is fun and serves as a great warm up for the area. Start standing on the flake just off the ground about 2 metres right of 'The Renaissance Man'. Traverse right along the horizontal crack past 'California Dreaming' to top out at the far right of the wall.

Boulder 7m Orroral area
13 30 Degrees and Calm

Start at the bottom of the slab, step on and trust the rubber

SportProject 15m Orroral area
1966
13 Aitchison's Needle

Booroomba's first climb. The prominent pinnacle of rock standing a short distance out from the main face. It is climbed on its left edge as seen looking out from the main cliff.

FA: Peter Aitchison, 1966

Trad 6m Orroral area
9 Jack's Crack

This is the easy angled, slanting crack 15 metres left of Rise and Fall. Scramble up a tree to start, walk up to another tree then up the crack.

FA: Jack O'Halloran & Peter Aitchison, 1966

Trad 30m Orroral area
7 Rise and Fall

The sad result of an ambitious but thwarted attempt on the vertical wall above the ledge, giving Booroomba's second climb. Start 10 metres left of Peter Pan, below twin cracks with some leaning blocks at the base.

  1. 18m - Climb the left crack to the large ledge on the left.

  2. 12m - Move left across the ledge between the face and the large detached block and climb down the other side to the bottom of Jack's Crack.

FA: Jack O'Halloran & Peter Aitchison, 1966

Trad 30m, 2 Orroral area
14 Overhang Corner

The first pitch is quite good, but the second is rubbish. Luckily you can just do P1 and rap down from the chain at the top of Cold Cuts. Start (crux) in the corner ten metres right of Aitchison's Needle.

  1. 12m - Climb the corner crack to a huge ledge.

  2. 20m - Traverse right then up to a tree. Scramble to the top.

FA: Peter Aitchison & Tony Wood, 1966

Trad 32m, 2 Orroral area
15 Peter Pan

A good climb on excellent rock. The moves from the top of the block are delicate and poorly protected, hence "Peter's Pan(ic)". Start left of Square Gully at a wide, rounded crack.

  1. 11m - Climb the crack to a ledge next to a large block leaning against the face.

  2. 37m - Up to the top of the block (large sling) and step onto the face - awkward for shorties - climb up for a few moves and then right to a thin crack. Up this to the top and what was a tree belay but now requires a topout.

FA: Peter Cocker & Peter Sands, 1966

Trad 48m, 2 Orroral area
11 Peter Pan Variant Start

Start 10 metres left as for Rise and Fall, but take the right-hand crack.

FA: Peter Cocker & Peter Sands, 1966

Trad 15m Orroral area
14 Roy's Crack

When climbers stare up at this crack/trench route they invariably mutter "old school" and move right along. It is in fact a pretty good romp and you will use the full bag of climbing tricks. Despite the good climbing, it is not suitable for learning to place protection, as it can be a bit tricky. Start: left of Integral and Equanimity.

FA: Tony Wood & Roy Hyndman (alt), 1966

Trad 50m Orroral area

Showing 1 - 100 out of 1,087 routes.

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