Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown year | |||||
15 | ★ Penny Direct
Straight up the bolted slab between Penny and Chopper | 18m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
11 | ★ Pseudopossum
An easier variant of Possum. Start from the first belay on Possum.
FA: Unknown | 26m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
V8 | Slabbin It
Start low on good holds, try not to get tangled between the crossing over and heel hooks, and pull out your best slab master to get to the top. FA: Daniel Fisher | 4m | Orroral area | ||
22 | Indelible Murtceps
The third crack from the left on 'five cracks wall'. Up the groove to the bulge then up the finger crack to the top. Tape recommended. FA: Roark Muhlen & Peter Mills | 25m | Orroral area | ||
19 | ★ Gutz Direct Start
The steep, wide crack in line with Gutz, below Hortensia. FA: John Fantini | 6m | Orroral area | ||
Antbiter
Stand start and up via the angled crack. Watch out for the ants. | 4m | Orroral area | |||
29 | ★★★ Truth
Start as for Boy's Brigade to the good holds on the traverse then take the water streak straight up, following the bolts, for a muscle fatiguing experience. A desperate direct start past one bolt awaits an ascent. Set: Chris Warner & Jamie Valdivia FA: Jamie Valdivia, 2000 | 25m | Orroral area | ||
V1 | Jerry Garcia
Located on the back of the boulder. Stand start from centre of slab then climb up and top out. | 2m | Orroral area | ||
7 | ★ Geology Lesson
Walk in to the top of 30 Degrees, Tend left up the dyke and through intermittent cracks. Well protected by gear | 20m | Orroral area | ||
Project
Landing built and problem cleaned (excluding top-out). Stand start from LH sidepull RH corner has been tried and should go. If the sit start from the right can be added it will be a very good/hard problem. | 7m | Orroral area | |||
16 | ★ The Hyperspace Express Route
Start as for Deep Space. Initially up the pinnacle and at 5m take the right-hand crack straight up. After the horizontal break go straight up the slab past a couple of carrot bolts. Another carrot then rejoin Deep Space at the steep headwall before the ledge. FA: Wade Stevens | 80m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
V8 | ★★ Bull Traverse
Start low down on two crimps at the furthest left of the boulder, no feet and small crimps lead into the start of the flippster. Take a 7 if you start a little further in. | 7m | Orroral area | ||
21 | In-your-endo
To the right of 'Bad Press' is an entrance to the cave. This route is directly ahead of you as you enter the cave. Straight up the wall. FA: Ben Jones | 2 | Orroral area | ||
22 | ★ Gentleman's Agreement
Superb slab climbing leading to an exciting conclusion. Start at the obvious leftwards ramp.
FA: Ken Luck, Paul Daniel, John Churchill, Liz Milbourne & Anne Hastings FFA: Ken Luck & Liz Milbourne, 1991 | 42m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
7 | Little Jack's
Start 10 metres below and just to the left of Jack's Crack. A pathetic rising traverse left across a slab, then up a short corner. Scramble to the top as for the second pitch of Overhang Corner. FA: Unknown | 30m | Orroral area | ||
20 | ★★ Moth... Yellow Brick Road Connection
This is a popular combination of routes that offers sustained climbing up 'The Prow'. From 'Moth' (or 'Place Without a Postcard') continue up 'Madrigal', followed by 'High at Kites' or 'Jett Arete' and finish up the second pitch of 'Yellow Brick Road'. FA: Unknown | 120m | Orroral area | ||
25 | ★ Non Caffeinated Organism
In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top. Scramble up and start from the top of the boulder that creates the halfway ledge on the left side of the route. Belaying from the ground level of the cave is best. Place a low cam and then lean out to clip the bolt, pull out onto the face and hard, technical crimping out to the right leads to a delicate slab to the top. The direct start past one bolt from the ground level is now an open project - all yours if you want it! | 20m, 6 | Orroral area | ||
15 | ★★★ Determinant (extended)
1
15
2
15
3
15
4
12
5
15
A wandering climb with a good exposed slab and a classic crack finish ('Terminant Corner'). Start where the track first touches the 'nose' of the cliff, at a short steep-looking hand crack with two smaller ones either side.
FA: Pitches 3-4 Tony Wood, Peter Aitchison 1968, Pitch 5 Peter Aitchison, C Aichison, G Hodges 1968., Pitches 1-2 Brett & Damo 2018 | 160m, 5, 1 | Orroral area | ||
Project Andrew
| Orroral area | ||||
11 | Ferrous negotiations
Walk in to the top of 30 Degrees, Tend right up the continued slab | 20m | Orroral area | ||
16 | ★ Hyper Space Express Route-Sickle
Add the final pitch of Sickle to take you to the top. | 90m | Orroral area | ||
20 | ★★★ The Gingerman
The rightwards curving crack on the wall above and to the right of 'Mushroom Rock', originally with one aid move. FFA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth FA: Ian Lewis & Damien Jones, 1974 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
16 | Achille's Armpit
Hideous, don't say you weren't warned. Start in the cave, graunching up the chock filled chimney to a leftwards weakness. Follow this to under an overlap and step left around an arete to a ledge. FA: Lincoln Hall | 25m | Orroral area | ||
22 | Only for My Ego
The line of bolts one metre right of 'Power Cat'; a bad joke even by sports climbing standards. FA: Unknown | 12m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
11 | Boulder Choke
A useful access route to 'The Platform'. Start as for 'Dead Horse Gap'.
FA: Unknown | 50m | Orroral area | ||
17 | ★ Jubilate - Outer Limit Combination
A number of possibilities exist for good combinations of pitches. The most obvious is the first two pitches of 'Jubilate' followed by 'Outer Limit'. FA: Unknown | 61m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
21 | Crushed Crack
Start ten metres left of (and around the corner from) Idle Moments. Climb the finger crack, widening up higher. FA: "Crushed" | Orroral area | |||
Access route
On the back of the central boulder is a single-bolt climb used to access the top, where there is an abseil chain. | 1 | Orroral area | |||
Roof project
| Orroral area | ||||
★ Project
about 10m left of 'Blood on the Cracks' is a short, slightly overhanging crack. | 6m | Orroral area | |||
V3 | ★ Batfink
Sit start to THC. | 4m | Orroral area | ||
Left of The Other Problem
Sit start as for The Other Problem. Head left on the crimps then battle the mantle. | 3m | Orroral area | |||
18 | ★★★ Outer Limit - Jubilate Combination
A sustained combination at the grade up the left hand side of 'The Central Slabs'. Climb the first pitch and part of the second of 'Outer Limit' followed by the third and fourth pitches of 'Jubilate'. FA: Unknown | 110m | Orroral area | ||
18 | Crack left of Tea Bag
FA: Unknown | Orroral area | |||
V5 | Mantle king
Stand start on good matched hold and mantle the nose, down and left of the slabbin it boulder, this boulder has 3 or 4 other lines on it that have been done, update with photos soon FA: Justin Ryan | Orroral area | |||
21 | ★★ The Renaissance Man
Short slab arete with a hard start. Set: Duncan Brown FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016 | 10m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
V5 | ★ Fumbling flakes
Start on jugs at head height follow-up obvious flake line far right of the boulder, potential for an extra few grades if you start at the same place as The Bull traverse. Spot well as the rocks is a little crumbly still. Link ups between the two flakes are also good and worth doing- however not separate climbs | 5m | Orroral area | ||
AID:A2 | Unfinished aid project
Branch out from Vertigo at mid height and head for the tiny seam to the right. Lower off fixed biner. The rest of the route (unclimbed) would be bat hooks and bolts to the top. FA: Chris Fitzgerald | Orroral area | |||
16 | ★★★ Deep Space - Sickle
The first two pitches of 'Deep Space', followed by the last pitch of 'Sickle'. FA: Unknown | 90m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
V3 | Fat and Lazy
| Orroral area | |||
V8 | ★ 44 Home
Stand start matched on good rail, big move up to blind pinch and then work your way up and around the boulder FA: Nick Churchill | Orroral area | |||
17 | ★ Morsehold left crack variant
No current description available. FA: ?? | 45m | Orroral area | ||
V5 | Dead Presidents
| Orroral area | |||
V6 | One Rail
Just to the left of 44 Home, climb up the steep two faced wall, looks like you can stem and it will be easy.....good luck. starts on good rail out right | Orroral area | |||
17/18 | ★★ Triphong
Adds a great left leaning hand crack, and a bombay chimney to the best pitches of Dipthong. (or it could be the original if you take the route description with a lot of salt) Start 3 meters left of Dipthong at a slanted crack or chimeny
Set: Dane Evans | 4 | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★★ Galvin is my favourite
The line of bolts up a very nice textured slab. The deathtrap aluminium hangers have been replaced | 25m, 6 | Orroral area | ||
★ Campus King project
Start at the furthest left end of the boulder, powerful move straight up then mantle. | 4m | Orroral area | |||
V4 | Gluten Free
To the right of noble rise | Orroral area | |||
8 | ★ Heresy
Up the crack until it runs out, then step right to the bolts | 10m, 1 | Orroral area | ||
Unnamed project
Just left of the Skin It Back alcove, on the valley side, is this line of shiny bolts up a vertical wall. Rumoured to be an old Matt Rizzuto project. There is also a single bolt to its right, which would make a hard bouldery start to the arete above. | 4 | Orroral area | |||
20 | ★★ Metal Fatigue - Stele Breeze Combination
Two great pitches up 'The Northern Slabs'. Climb the first pitch of 'Metal Fatigue' and then traverse left to join the second pitch of 'Stele Breeze' at the bolt. FA: Unknown | 80m, 2, 3 | Orroral area | ||
22 | Dynamo Hum
This wall was bolted and climbed by Crushed and Dave Sargent, but they aided it (19M1) and didn't bother naming it. Start as for 'Terminant Corner'. Climb up the corner and out onto the wall. Hard moves past three bolts lead to the arete and a crack. At the ledge, go up the crack to a good finish which hand traverses left. FA: Mike Law-Smith & Dave Sargent FFA: Joe Lynch & Mike Peck, 1986 | 30m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
V1 | Beer Gut Roof
| Orroral area | |||
V0- | Warmup 1
FA: Willem Ryan | 3m | Orroral area | ||
9 | ★ Sunstroke Variant P2-3
2b. 20m - From the first belay, climb the groove for six metres and traverse right to a parallel crack; climb this and the large blocks to a good stance. 3b. 25m - Move left across the slab, back to the main groove and third belay. FA: Unknown | 45m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
V10 | ★★ Whales Tale
Whales tales starts with both hands down low on the sharp flake (matched as low as you can) and moves up the arete via the big sheild. The stand start (V8) starts with one hand on the arete right hand crimp and left hand on the face crimp a bit higher up. Tall man beta might drop a grade on both of these. FA: Daniel Fisher | 6m | Orroral area | ||
V7 | Nobel Rise
The first arete you come to | Orroral area | |||
7 | ★ Bolt for a bolt
Straight up the slab past the intrusion at 2 meters | 10m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
Obvious Flaring offwidth
As it says on the label | Orroral area | ||||
16 | Over the Hill
The crack on the left on the southern side, which narrows in the middle. FA: Unknown | 10m | Orroral area | ||
The Belfry - slab start
A meter left of The Belfry is a vague scoop with a couple of bolts (first one is missing a hanger as of july '18). Details unknown but appears to be a start to the Belfry that skips the wide stuff. | 2 | Orroral area | |||
Project- closed
The arête at the end of the chimney has been bolted. It’s either an easy ~12 ish chimney or a hard dyke climb. | Orroral area | ||||
Unnamed arete
The flakey overhanging arete on the left edge of the boulder left of 'Vertigo' (i.e. down and right from 'Pass the Kettle') has been bolted but not claimed. | Orroral area | ||||
13 | ★ Belfry Access Route
The easiest way to the top. Wander up a series of chimneys, starting near 'Return of the Etrier', to a ledge. Climb the mossy slab from the ledge to the summit (poorly protected). FA: Unknown | 15m | Orroral area | ||
V12 | ★★★ Stand and Deliver
Stand start on two tiny crimps, move up and right to the big shield and then top out the proud arete FA: Daniel Fisher | 6m | Orroral area | ||
V10 | ★★ Tree hugger
Start low matched on arete crimp, head up arete for a few moves make some big moves across right to a good crimp, followed by some tricky moves to end up with feet on this crimp. (may have already been done please let me know if it has) | Orroral area | |||
13 | Short sighted
Step left off the block to gain the steep slab. Pad up this to the top | 10m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
Only for the Devil - proj Dane
Up the South corner of the 'Demon' block above Oxygen Arete - Rap off bolts on top that serve mostly to TR Demon | 6 | Orroral area | |||
Project Barten (open)
Starts at a short crack. Pass many bolts up the slab to lower-off. Re-equipped but still waiting for a clean ascent. | 27m, 10 | Orroral area | |||
24 | ★ The Polymath
A short, sharp, thin tips crack. Difficulty dependent on finger size. FA: | 7m | Orroral area | ||
16 | ★★ Random Route Direct Finish
The direct finish! | 12m | Orroral area | ||
20 | ★ Echidna
This route starts at ground level 3 meters left of a squeeze chimney.
FA: Unknown | 20m, 2, 5 | Orroral area | ||
19 | ★★★ Rubbishman/Outer Limit combination
Continues on with the third pitch of "Outer Limit" | 180m, 6 | Orroral area | ||
Project Chris Warner (open)
The bolted arete directly below the chossy approach slab and opposite Julius Caesar. Very delicate arete climbing on bolts to chain | 18m, 8 | Orroral area | |||
15 | Dead Fingers Run
Start as for Dead Fingers Talk, heading left up the ramp | Orroral area | |||
Devil in my ear - Dane
The arete right of 'Demon'. An easier variant, but the ground is further away. Not that it'll make a difference really. | Orroral area | ||||
21 | ★ Confessions of a Stripper/Purple Haze combo
See description above. | 30m | Orroral area | ||
V8 | ★★ Squeeze the loaf
Start on crimp on the arete, some smooth compression moves up sees you matched the sharp arete hold a few meters off the ground. (probably done by someone else, feel free to change) | Orroral area | |||
V5 | Dragline
An obvious line on 'Barrel Boulder' that begins in the depths, on slopes, whilst lying on your back. | Orroral area | |||
13 | ★★ Practice Slab
Climb the block, leap the void onto the boulder - scramble to the top and retrace your steps. Once an initiation climb for the area and must only be climbed in volleys. Somewhat spookier now that it is mossy, but at least there's a log plugging the gap again. | 8m | Orroral area | ||
V10 | ★★★ Bakers Dozen SS
Sit start as for Bakers Dozen. FA: Zac Vertrees | Orroral area | |||
Unknown 80s route
There's a steep north-west facing wall, with 4 right angle hangers | Orroral area | ||||
10 | ★ Walking Crack
The crack left of Running Crack - just not quite as good, and often slower with all the bushes. FA: Unknown | Orroral area | |||
V0 | Warm up
Many eliminate's can be made on this boulder problem. Start low on crimp jugs and cruise to the top. FA: Justin Ryan | 5m | Orroral area | ||
16 | ★★ Hermes, Fearon combination
This is generally the way Fearon is climbed. Climb the first pitch of Hermes to the start of Fearon. | 74m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
7 | Unnamed
The chimney between the slab block and the back of poachers forms a nice start to Skyline | 4m | Orroral area | ||
V7 | Barrelfest
Starts on a very low jug to the left; up to a slope and out right to a powerful undercling, finishing on more slopes. | Orroral area | |||
Open project
Start as for Rocketman up the thin crack. Climb diagonally up and right across the face, passing a bolt. Finish up the flake/crack on the upper face. | 25m, 1 | Orroral area | |||
18 | ★★ Baryon Direct Variant
Probably climbed before as obvious line, alternate, better and harder variant on broken and very loose flake on pitch 2 of Baryon. From belay for P2, delicately straight up via thin crack to join Baryon at poised blocks. Finish as for original route. | 20m | Orroral area | ||
24 | ★★ Hitler Youth
Just left of Frog Tactics. Up past six bolts to lower-off. Early crux and watch your back on the block if you fall. FA: Chris Warner | 20m, 6 | Orroral area | ||
V4 | ★ Our Daily Bread
Stand start on good crimps, end up on a good high crimp with feet on the ledge. Another variant for an extra grade heads left from the start holds and ends in the same place. | Orroral area | |||
V1 | ★★ Try Troy's Traverse
This has probably been done before but is worth recording as it is fun and serves as a great warm up for the area. Start standing on the flake just off the ground about 2 metres right of 'The Renaissance Man'. Traverse right along the horizontal crack past 'California Dreaming' to top out at the far right of the wall. | 7m | Orroral area | ||
13 | 30 Degrees and Calm
Start at the bottom of the slab, step on and trust the rubber | 15m | Orroral area | ||
1966 | |||||
13 | ★ Aitchison's Needle
Booroomba's first climb. The prominent pinnacle of rock standing a short distance out from the main face. It is climbed on its left edge as seen looking out from the main cliff. FA: Peter Aitchison, 1966 | 6m | Orroral area | ||
9 | Jack's Crack
This is the easy angled, slanting crack 15 metres left of Rise and Fall. Scramble up a tree to start, walk up to another tree then up the crack. FA: Jack O'Halloran & Peter Aitchison, 1966 | 30m | Orroral area | ||
7 | Rise and Fall
The sad result of an ambitious but thwarted attempt on the vertical wall above the ledge, giving Booroomba's second climb. Start 10 metres left of Peter Pan, below twin cracks with some leaning blocks at the base.
FA: Jack O'Halloran & Peter Aitchison, 1966 | 30m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Overhang Corner
The first pitch is quite good, but the second is rubbish. Luckily you can just do P1 and rap down from the chain at the top of Cold Cuts. Start (crux) in the corner ten metres right of Aitchison's Needle.
FA: Peter Aitchison & Tony Wood, 1966 | 32m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
15 | ★★ Peter Pan
A good climb on excellent rock. The moves from the top of the block are delicate and poorly protected, hence "Peter's Pan(ic)". Start left of Square Gully at a wide, rounded crack.
FA: Peter Cocker & Peter Sands, 1966 | 48m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
11 | ★ Peter Pan Variant Start
Start 10 metres left as for Rise and Fall, but take the right-hand crack. FA: Peter Cocker & Peter Sands, 1966 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Roy's Crack
When climbers stare up at this crack/trench route they invariably mutter "old school" and move right along. It is in fact a pretty good romp and you will use the full bag of climbing tricks. Despite the good climbing, it is not suitable for learning to place protection, as it can be a bit tricky. Start: left of Integral and Equanimity. FA: Tony Wood & Roy Hyndman (alt), 1966 | 50m | Orroral area |