Routes in Acephale

You better have fingers of steel and ligaments of concrete. A hard series of pulls off the ground leads to easier crimps- a nice rest and very reachy crux. easier above.

Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt

Climb The Warm-Up then follow a blue streak through a scoop on thin holds above. Gun for a big hole in the yellow rock and then run it out on easy terrain to the top.

Climb Hickory Dickory Dock to bolt four on the rest and trend left. Difficult climbing leads to a boulder problem below the anchor.

Start on the left side of a small ledge on the right end of the wall. Climb straight up on cool pods and pockets to a great finish through a overhang at the top. More traffic would make this classic

Climb out the right side of the steep overhang and directly into the desperate crux. At the headwall, finish up Bunda De Fore.

Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt

New one at Upper Wall. Start on a boulder left of Bataille.

A vicious v7/v8 boulder problem off the ground into a great 12a. Not Classic.

Class for the grade! A must do, power enduro test piece.

An excellent technical warm up punctuated by jugs.

Climb immediately right of Swelltone Theatre- ascending onto a ledge, backcleaning quickdraws to reduce drag. Shallow pockets in bulging grey stone define the cruxes.

Start to the left of the dirty flake. If you persist through the rotten bottom, you’ll be rewarded with an endless stretch of great climbing above.

From the Boner anchor traverse right to some desperate undercling moves.

Neoconstructionist for a few bolts, two bolts for the traverse right, then finish on upper section of Where's Mom?

Using the dirty flake head straight up and over the ledge to a no hands rest. Punch last two fixed draws to a rest out left. Motor to the top. Classic

Difficult and technical edge climbing, punctuated by good rests, lead to an improbable looking finish the utilizes some grisly footholds.

Link up. Worth doing for a warm up. Start on Go Ask Alice, climb the vert tech and traverse in right on buckets after the 4th bolt and clip the anchor of Nitro Light.

After climbing through initial Choss, follow the left hand bolt line past a Hueco. The crux pulls a small roof below the anchor

Start to the left of the yellow streak. Easyish climbing to an excellent rest is followed by increasingly difficult moves and clips up the blank wall. Surf around and finish with a tricky mantle.

Spectacular, technical climbing on bullet limestone, rises in difficulty. One of the best of the grade in the country.

Start to the left of a yellow corner capped by a roof. From the ledge, pull the roof and head left into a scoop. Continue left to a finish on Jingus Americanus.

The last route on the far right of the wall. A viciously crimpy and technical crux at the second bolt stops must suitors in their tracks. If you survive this section, easier climbing with plenty of rests leads to a heartbreaking finish.

Stick clip the 1st bolt. Excellent movement in the blue rock with a great heel hook crux going over the lip. 11c/d

Start to the left of a yellow streak. burly slaps up a small corner lead to a poor rest and a powerful crimpy section. If you're pumped the moves under the anchor will be heartbreaking.

Sustained crimping off the ground leads to a midway shake, a dynamic move and a well deserved rest. If pumped the top will prove to be more problematic than anticipated.

Similar to its neighbors, Two powerful cruxes separated by a poor rest.

Start below a yellow ledge. Follow long moves to awesome pockets up the steep wall, switch gears over the clean face climb above

Start to the right of the big tree. Boulder up to some hidden holds over a small roof before causing baby blue stone to the anchor.

Climb Half Nelson but continue up beautiful grey rock to an impossible looking crux.

Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt

From the shattered ledge, head up to the horizontal break and veer left. Difficult moves in the overhanging lead into a scoop. Finish with easier climbing on cool pockets. This boulder problem is probably the most tried 5.13 in Alberta. Basically a v8 boulder problem.

Many intricate cruxes stand between you and the anchors including one at ground level. Start in a mailbox slot just left of the first bolt.

Sustained pumpy big moves ends at the lip of the wall. Switch gears and crimp away on a featureless clean slab.

Climb the grey corner on miniature holds.

Climb the warm up or Bataille following a pockets line of bolts to the left and finish at a long chain anchor

Climb through the first crux of Prime Time before traversing right and finishing up First Flight Direct Project.

Technical climbing up nice rock with 2 cruxy moves. 3 rests and powerful climbing to finish.

Retro bolting has eliminated 2 cruxes (clips), and it is now easier than when first climbed. Plus it is actually worth climbing now, as before it was a turd.

Short cruxes separated by good rests lead to sustained climbing, a stout deadpoint move and a dicey edit onto the upper slab. A final tough move below the anchor keeps things interesting.

Start on Hypochondriac. After moving past the 4th bolt above the ledge climb up the corners left side to the overhanging wall above.

This excellent route starts just left of a leaning tree (by climbing in from Rockemoveya then traversing right on a few pockets). A powerful mid pitch boulder problem is followed by a slab Crux at the top.

Climb between two prominent holes to a crux just before the third bolt. Traverse right on good holds to a couple of hard moves below the anchor.

Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt

Climb Jingus Americanus to the big slap move. Veer left on pods to hard moves on small holds slapping up the bulge.

Seriously, Yankees go home....jks. But seriously don't bring your ego to Acephale tourists The most popular 12D in Alberta. Polished, steep, pumpy and short. From the ledge, climb over a chossy section into a (12b) crimpy move, gaining a corner. The "crux" is at the top of the corner and involves a big slap to a sloper from a pocket. Part of the difficulty in this route is clipping the chains, so if you want the 12D tick, don't but any long draws or slings on the anchor!! FAists words.

This classic has continuously powerful all the way to the bathtub rail. Finish up a small corner

Start off the left end of the ledge and traverse left backcleaning quickdraws to reduce rope drag. This long, beautiful climb features a rare body length tufa and a high and pumpy crux.

This popular line is a good introduction to the harder climbing at the crag. Start to the left of a shallow, right-facing corner and follow a blue streak to two cruxes separated by a poor rest.

Climb Le Bleu Du Ciel to the third bolt before trending right on sustained pockets and pods that lead over small ledges. Pumpy and powerful climbing!

Starts to the left of The Warm Up- between two boulders on the ledge. Head up the grey and yellow streaks to the chains.

From the shattered ledge, head up to the horizontal break and veer left. Difficult moves in the overhanging lead into a scoop. Finish with easier climbing on cool pockets. This boulder problem is probably the most tried 5.13 in Alberta. Basically a v8 boulder problem.

Not a great warm up but its all there is. Perma draws also which is nice. Start at the bottom of the small, left trending ramp and follow the blue streak to the anchor.

Start to the right of a yellow corner capped by a roof. Follow the blue streak on edges and pockets to a high crux. Manufactured and glued.

Follow a small blue streak to a roof. Beautiful climbing on pockets and pods lead to an amazing crux pulling onto the "whale back". Finish on a steep headwall.

From the top of Dales Extender, execute one really hard move off a mono. This route might be a very fast tick if you have tendons of steel! It might also end your climbing season......

Climb The Warm-Up then follow a blue streak through a scoop on thin holds above. Gun for a big hole in the yellow rock and then run it out on easy terrain to the top.

Start in The middle of the chossy ledge and crimp upward to the roof. Big moves and cryptic footwork end with a wild swing. A few tough moves close the deal.

Start on the right side of the chossy ledge. A very powerful crux negotiates the roof.

Start this crimpy line left of a big tree growing two metres from the cliff. A tough bouldery start is followed by an interesting sequence on blankness. Mellow climbing follows before a final bulge redpoint crux.

Start up Army Ants but make a vicious traverse right into a cool and cruxy dyno. If you fire it dont get too excited- the real redpoint crux lurks above.

Climb immediately right of Swelltone Theatre- ascending onto a ledge, backcleaning quickdraws to reduce drag. Shallow pockets in bulging grey stone define the cruxes.

This line features a hard boulder problem start and finish with technical climbing inbetween.

This is the left most route out of the small cave. Finish on the anchors of Altius

Climb directly out the centre of the steep overhang. A bouldery crux leads to the safety of large pods above

Similar to its neighbors, Two powerful cruxes separated by a poor rest.

Climb a small right facing corner before pulling a short overlap to reach two bolts worth of compact grey rock. Trend left on pockets to finish on the anchor of Jingus Americanus.

Climb through the first crux of Prime Time before traversing right and finishing up First Flight Direct Project.