Routes in Banff

The green rope hanging on the beauty steep shield like wall.

Start on Sister Ray but negotiate right. A very fun corner awaits

Climb some nice low angle stone, crimpers, slopers, tufas and then out the two-tier roof system. Excellent route, probably one of the best 13’s in the valley.

The Ledge, fourth from left.

An easy climb for first-time leaders. Climb up the on the right hand corner to the chains

Roadside Right, sixth from left

The problem to the left of the front. Has the other broken boulders as a base. Not really a recommended route but who's to say what some enjoy. Has a fun move from the V shaped slopery pinch up to the slopery/crimp U shaped.

Interesting route. The Cruz has broken hold now so grade is unknown. Not popular

Sit start out right to good holds. #20 on map.

An awkward roof into some easy climbing on top.

Technical 5.11 climbing following a thin yellow streak up the small right facing corner. Needs retrofit but still goes

Climb up a small, left facing corner and into a small right facing corner above.

The Ledge, eighth from left

Start on edges up lip. #20 on map

Alternate Finish to Le Soulier

Cool climbing up blocky rock with nice hands and feet.

A long day for most. Get ready for 10 hrs give or take a few depending on your speed.

Approach is via the Rockbound Lake Trail. Best reference is 'Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies' by Sean Dougherty. Trail to Eisenhower heads off left aroundf the spot where the trail finishes climbing and is heading to the lake.

You need to cut left (keep your eyes open for a climbers trail) maybe 2-3 hrs from the car (depending on your approach hike pace). Follow this up to a headwall which you'll bypass around to the left where you'll then find a right angling approach gully. Up this to goat Plateau.

Walk to the spine on the east side of Castle Mountain (the Dragon's Back). Most easily conquered by walking right around it (north side) and finding a 2 pitch approach gully to get you to the base of the first proper headwall of Eisenhower tower.

Up this (look for some bolts) for a rope length or so, and then traverse left to a scree bowl. Up the left of this (some trad, some anchors) for 3-4 pitches seeking the line of least resistance. The descent route is on your right hand side, is equipped, and descends into the scree bowl. There is sometimes permanent snow in here so be careful on the descent!

The rusty hardware leading out of the cave up hill from scoop area. It is landmarked by a white rope hanging from it. Open project set in the 1970-80's and looks to go around 5.13+ 5.14.

Start just left of a mossy corner. Follow good juggy stone to the anchors.

A low angle start on technical balancey edges, then get ready for some tugging out the two-tier roof with big moves. Abit sporty to the anchor.

Paddock Wall Right, third from left.

A few positive holds start this pitch before the climbing turns grim.

The far left route starting on slab. Looks dirty and not sure how much has been cleaned....but has been redpointed...

Start at the wide crack approx. 9m right of the regular start, continue up the chimney and traverse left at 15m up a steep ramp to a belay ledge below the corner Continue pitches 2 and 3 as per Kraut Pinnacle

Edge climbing leads to a few small roofs.

A powerful finish on big underclings!

Starts about 5m right of Carnivore – climb the faint overhanging crack/seam – pockets, slopey bucket and surprisingly hard for such a short route. It’s excellent – kind of nice to have the last bolt extended!

Climb the far right arete, sit start facing behind the boulder. Not recommended with a back breaking fall. V1 if you stand start on the jug

Extreme right of the crag. Steep route with a interesting Dyno at the lower bulge

Sit start the out left up the arete. Don't rest your bum on the boulder below the overhang! #19 on map.

Start with a bunch of underclings and sidepulls to transition into a crimpy finish.

Fun technical 5.11 edge climbing punctuated by nice buckets lead to a great crux before the anchor. *Completely retrobolted (June 2016) by James Blackhall and Greg Tos

Burly? Sarcasm. Climb over a small roof with great feet. Slabby face climbing leads to another roof with good feet.

Start on the left side of the corner and climb onto an arete. Veer left in order to pull over the bulge on the way to the anchor.

Beauty climbing ling up the two crimp rails to a right handed dead point.

Fun sustained climbing on excellent rock.

Start on flake to edges and top. #16

Head for a short left facing corner with a thin crack above it. Technical!

On a left-facing wall to the left of the RUDED2 wall. Two routes on this wall, this one is the farthest left. Cool climbing up blocky rock with smooth, not so obvious hands. Follow the bolts up to the left toward the open book.

The extension to Sweet.

Left of V-man.

The extension of Vanilla Guerilla. Said to go around 13b