Ascents of Kohlmann having Beta

Epic alpine experience with a guide very late in the season, but we randomly nailed the weather and had a very memorable day. Huge pack with 2 sets of mountain boots made the cruxes touch and go. Climbed some of the shaded (frigid) pitches in gloves.

Repeat of a great route did a different corners entry , unfortunately a wet crux 6c pitch so pulled through

French-freed a move on the 6c pitch.

Second 6c pitch - Under Cling to Gaston to small feet then jugs

Super nice climb. No crowd compared to Rebuffat and finish by rappel on to scenic platform of Midi!

Hardest & most committing climb I’ve done yet, glad we managed. Climbed in 10 pitches total - Pitch 1 6a(?) 25m featuring a tricky hand jam into a corner, Pitch 2 5b 30m good climbing, Pitch 3+4 5b 30m good climbing (can be joined into single pitch, multiple belay stations made it slightly confusing), Pitch 5 6c / 6a A0 25m roof pitch followed by good holds, can be aided with fixed gear, Pitch 6 5b 15m awkward corner pitch (have to run out a bit) into easy terrain, belay station on most right, Pitch 7 6b(?) 20m hard corner crack pitch which eases up later, Pitch 8 6b(?) 25m features a very thin crack on left and good fist-size crack on right which opens up into offwidth size, important to bring the right sizes for this pitch which varies from the other pitches, Pitch 9 6a+(?) 20m had to scramble a bit to find the right belay ledge, ends with some good hand jams, Pitch 10 6b+ / 6a A0 10m the wonderful summit pitch, followed by ~30m abseil into Midi station terrace. Overall - need to bring a wider range of pros & climb in late summer or start earlier, gets shaded & chilly very fast. Some loose rocks.

Better than the rebuffet route. The big dihedral up the top is so sick. Had to aid through the wet 6c roof.