Routes in Romania

Protection grade given by the initial portion, a 8a 7-8m runout to the first (and only) bolt, with a sketchy landing even assuming pads are used. Above that, the climbing gets easier and there's a secure nut placement available early enough to prevent ground fall risk from above the bolt.

Romanian 5A

The entire route is relatively well protected with newer mechanical anchors, old manufactured bots and pitons. The route is not beginner friendly but an intermediate climber with some basic aid climbing skills should be just fine on it. Some larger nuts/cams are recommended for p1 and p3.

The route can be and has been free climbed. It is one of the most interesting and varied routes in the gorge with each pitch being completely different from all the others.

Highly recommended.

Recommended gear: small offset friends, offset nuts, an optional cliff

Pitch 1: start from right of Mielul cel bland, on the right side of a chimney, then head upwards and slightly left. Slightly runout before the belay

Pitch 2: head straight up then traverse upward left, under an arch. Pass the overhang (crux of the route, estimated at 7a free) and traverse slightly left on a ledge before heading right to the second belay of Cotofana