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Routes as trad in Pole 28

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Showing all 9 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Lower Cliff
21 Bewilderbeast

The following route is located at Pole 28 LOWER CLIFF (in the huge cave/overhang). See intro to area for directions.

Mixed Route: 4 bolts plus med-large cams (double #2; 3, 4 Camalot). Lower-off.

In the huge cave/overhang near the drainage/notch directly below Upper Pole 28. Start on the left where the horizontal splitter leaves a ledge.

With first piece placed, launch into a pumpy no- footer L-R hand traverse (no. 3 then no. 4 Camalot) before passing 3 bolts where the crack widens, then a 4th bolt heading straight up the steep wall on crimps to horizontal break (no. 2 Camalot ideal but a no. 1 or 3 would work) and lower-off anchors just left of arête.

FA: Tom Hepner & Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson, 2010

Mixed trad 20m, 4
15 Belayed by Bryden

Pleasant corner crack with overhanging crux, then easy corner and equalised small trees belay. Good protection throughout, mostly wires and a few cams. Sheltered from westerly wind and sun.

FA: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 18 Jan 2021

Trad 14m
17 CleanaWay

Straight up avoiding the bolts of Surprisingly Sweet. Great gear, tree belay.

FA: Graham Dowden & Peter Martland, 30 Apr 2021

Trad 10m
8 Practice Corner

An easy corner on which to practise trad. Stem or thrutch up to tree belay.

Trad 8m
20 Serendipitous Pleasures

Burly overhanging roof crack with awkward exit followed by easy corner and tree belay. Make sure the cams stick, and add an extra grade for the crack exit.

FA: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 26 Jan 2021

Trad 15m
26 Rohan's Roof Crack

Seam crack through roof. Originally attempted on gear by Damian Taylor and sundry.Chris Coghill, added some bolts when his gear started falling out. Rohan took offense, chopped the bolts and climbed this natural masterpiece And the world was a more ethical and morally brighter place. Amen.

FA: Rohan, 2013

Trad 12m
13 The New School of Old School - Second Form

Rambly corner crack, then trend left up grey juggy wall to tree belay.

FA: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 25 Nov 2020

Trad 20m
14 The New School of Old School - Sixth Class

Start: 2m right of TNSOOS Second Year.

Shallow corner crack topped by block, then bash up gully to right avoiding ants. Tree belay.

FA: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 25 Nov 2020

Trad 20m
24 Cocky

The dead-horizontal roof crack you can't miss walking to the far side of the crag, but looks like everyone did?

Release your inner crack-monkee and blast into pockets, upside-down fingerlocks and 360 cut-loose trickery. Finish at hands-free ledge above and backjump.

Take a single rack to 3 with doubles in 1 and 2 and triples in 0.4.

FFA: Anton Korsun, 29 Jun 2022

Trad 8m

Showing all 9 routes.

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