Routes as boulder in Japan

Japanese Grade: 1Kyuu (1級）

Japanese Grade 一級

Japanese Grade: 6Kyuu (6級)

Translates as "Captain Ahab" (reference to the Moby-Dick novel)

Name Translates as concave angle Japanese Climbing Grade 3級

Follow the stitches in the rock.

An amazing line that starts from the lowest left crimp and tops out the boulder. The last move to the top jug is easy but scary because of the bad landing with a large boulder in the center. But it can be well protected with 2/3 pads and a good spotter. The crux is in the first middle section of the problem.

Traverse on the highest point of the boulder from one end to the other end.

Japanese Grade: Shodan (初段)

Translates as "Hole employees"

A true classic on this rock. Start from an undercling and climb up the edge of the rock. Use some creative drop knee and heel hook to stay close to the wall in order to bump your left hand on the sloper. Squeeze hard and go big on your right hand to grab the top and mantle to end the climb.

Easy for tall people and hard for small people.

The Japanese Grade is：　5Kyuu (5級)

The Japanese Grade is: 6Kyuu (6級）

10 kyuu

7 kyuu

6級

8級

Lying horizontally under the rock, right foot heel hook, and hand hold is the lowest.

The name means "pig's chin", which is a very vivid metaphor.

Start on the jugs to right of Arete traverse to the left then up the line of jugs.

Sit start on the two best holds of the climb, mantle then slab to the top.

Japanese Grade: 6Kyuu (6級)

Climb the arete to the right of 'Dead End' Japanese Grade - 7級

An easier version of Mine no Yu which starts from the right edge, climbs up and then traverses left to reach the top of the crux move of Mine no Yu. The climbing is amazing with great moves on perfect crimps. A little scary at the top as it is quite high but with enough pads and a good spotter it is relatively safe.

10 kyuu

8 kyuu

8級

8 kyuu

5級

An easier variation compared to Goya Cha (If you have strong fingers). Go straight up the face of the rock. Share same start as Goya Cha.

The most famous route! Start with a toe hook and climb the left/middle part of the rock.

Use this route as a warm-up or as the down-climb for The Tape and Stitches.

The route is marked by bones in the shape of a 7 cemented into the wall with 19770613 carved into the wall. The route starts to the right of the bones on small crimps and travels to the left over the bones to top out.

Gets very wet after rain!

Start from big jugs and climb up through the left side face of the stitches. Big and comfortable pockets.

Climb up using crimps on the middle section of the wall and mantle to finish. Do not use the jugs on the right side.

Start on two jugs and move across to a rail. Afterwards follow the stitches to top up.

About 25 moves.

3Q

3Q

1Q

Japanese Grade: Shodan (初段）

The Japanese climbing grade is rated as 5級 (5 Kyuu)

In Dune (Sci-fiction by Frank Herbert), the Test Of The Gom Jabbar is a test of leadership and humanity, where you must experience terrible pain by voluntarily placing your hand in a pain box. To remove your hand before the test is done is to die. To complete the test through the pain, is to succeed.

SD Start

Follow the crack and top out.

High Ball

Match on the last hold to the left then up.

Kami Sori (Razor Clams) as the name entails this route is razor sharp. The climb starts from the jug underneath and follows the easiest path up. The route is complete when you've topped up. You can downclimb from the right side.

The route is marked by an unsightly spray painting of Mariko. It is assumed the vandal wrote their name on the rock before he killed 3 innocent puppies with only a pair of chopsticks.

Landing is dangerous, please use mat.

If penicillin doesn’t work to kill the fungus, you might need Aspirin to kill your headache.

9級　Climb the other side of the boulder. Toping out just behind the peak.

Start from two lowest artificial holes and follow them to top out the ceiling. High sand level makes the climb awkward.

Climb along the right side of the whiskey stones using all the good jugs. Mantle to finish the climb.

The delicate arête on its left hand side.

Please help locate me. So far only indication is "Mount Horai" This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

10級

Start from the lowest two artificial incut in the wall, following by climbing up with thin slices and moving to the right to top out.

SD: Sit Down start route Translates as "Green hand"

Please help locate me. So far only indication is "Mount Horai" This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

Start with a pocket and climb up the arete to top.

The crux is the first move! In order to start the climb, you will have to do a bat-hang and match the tiny round rock.

SD Start Japanese Grade: 2Kyuu (2級)

Sit Start. The final mantle is also surprisingly painful if you're not used to it.

Japanese Grade: 8Kyuu (8級）

１０級

Please help locate me. So far only indication is "Mount Horai" This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

Start from the deepest hold in the cave and climb the left side of the mushroom part. The route ends once you mantled the mushroom and matched the jug. This route is very pumpy and overhanging!

Lord Smaug starts as a sit starts with separated hands starting on the two crimps.

The route has been merged with 'Sun Yet Sent' for simplicity as it shared quite similarities except for the start.

Start from the jug furthest to the left of the rock and traverse across to the right. The crux is in the beginning!

10 kyuu

Japanese Grade: 10Kyuu (10級）

6級 Sit start on jug and mantle

Japanese Grade: 5 Kyuu (5級）