Starts with several slab pitches to gain the higher crack system that leads to the summit. This route gave some nice climbing on varied terrain. Climbed ground up, bolted belays with mixed climbing. The rap line at the bottom is different to the starting pitches as they move diagonally, the rap line would make 3 great pitches of slab.
From the Totiel tea houses hike up to the south ridge of Jebel Totiel for 1 hour. Pitch 1 starts in the groove as you scramble onto the cliff. An easy 5a pitch for 50m. The pitch seems to have 3 variations from the same starting point and all have fixed anchors at the belay. From any of the belays scramble up and left to the base of the next wall. Climb the stacked blocks (4a) to reach a bolt with ring. The second pitch starts here. Pitch 2 50m (6a) Up the unprotected slab to the base of the obvious corner. Climb corner past the tree to make the ledge out left at the end of the corner and belay on bolts. Pitch 3 (4a) traverses far left before heading straight up on easier rock and belay off blocks. There is a single rap bolt further right which lines up with the previous belay.
Single rack of cams
60m doubles to descend route
Faces south so you will get cooked in the sun if you don't start early.
1 hour to the base of route, 2 hours to summit
The original way to the summit. Really only one pitch of climbing, the rest is an easy solo if comfortable with exposure. There is 2 fixed hand made pegs that look to be from original ascent.
Start on the NE side of Jebal Take North. scramble up broken slabs to reach a ledge with a left facing corner for a long 60m pitch. Then continue up to a plateau and cross to Jebal Taka main summit. Wander up the face following faint crack lines left then right.
