Routes as trad in Phantom Buttress

Recommended, if you've got this far. Start 6 metres left of L.W.F, below two parallel cracks. Climb up to, then up these to the top.

Horrible, vegetated, dirty and usually wet - a sandbag at the grade. The obvious corner on the steep wall at the left end of the cliff.

1. 15 metres - Up the corner to belay in the cave.

2. 30 metres - Continue up until it is possible to escape left.

3. 10 metres - Traverse left to slabs.

Start 15 metres right of 'Lest We Forget', just right of the obvious water streak and corner.

1. 40 metres - A bit dirty, wet and runout in places. Climb the flake and then traverse left on the black slab to another flake. Continue up the water streak to join the corner and up this to belay below the roof.

2. 20 metres - Climb up to the roof, then traverse left and up awkwardly onto a ledge. Up the easy, mossy slab to finish.

Needs cleaning. Start as for 'High Spirits'. Climb up to the top of the flake and step right into a groove. Up this on positive holds past a bolt to a ledge. Easy climbing leads to a belay below the big roof. Scramble off right.

danger - this route has NO protection

Ascends the scoop and slab at the right-hand end of the east buttress. Start at a fallen tree and, when the scoop ends, traverse left a couple of metres before climbing straight up. No pro.

danger - second (50 metre) pitch is unprotected

Sustained and poorly protected. Start on the lower slab, to the right of the steepest section. Scramble up the gully between the easy angled slabs and the cliff proper to where a crack leads leftwards over the initial steepness.

1. 30 metres (crux) Climb the crack until it closes and steepens. Step left and continue diagonally left with increasing difficulty. Belay on good wires near the top of a small overlap running down the face.

2. 50 metres (16) - Unprotected. Straight up the middle of the slab to the top.