Routes as sport in Tunnel Mountain

Route starts to the right of a little cave about 50m left of Gooseberry. Beware of loose rock. This is a fantastic route with each pitch being better than the last. Bring a lot of quickdraws if you intend to combine pitches.

1. 30m of 5.9 climbing up a loose-ish corner to a belay.

2. 20m of 10a trending right through a small corner and bulge to belay.

3. 25m of solid 10d/11a climbing straight up leads to a ledge. This pitch is well protected and the crux can be aided or French freed if need be.

4. 30m 10a. Keep left (Gooseberry is on the right) and and follow the bolts on up.

5. 40m 5.9. Traverse left to a steep roof protected by bolts. There is one fixed piton but no need to clip it. Stem the roof and head up the slab, up and then right past a pair of bolts to the second pair of anchor bolts. There will be one pair of bolts to your left and a chain about 10m to your right.

6. 30m of hard 10c/d follows the line of bolts up and right. Keep a lookout for small key holds and trust your feet. Pitch ends on a hanging belay on a detached block .

7. 20m of 5.8 climbing. Step right off the block and follow the bolts up. This pitch is easier than it looks however it is very exposed. Head on up to chains.

8. 30m 10b. Move left from the chains and blindly traverse past three bolts, making a few burly moves to pull over a bulge. Follow the bolts up through chert bands to chains. Belay your follower further up to gain the hikers trail to the carpark.

1. 30 m, 5.10c or 10d

2. 30 m, 5.10a/b

3. 30 m, 5.7

4. 20 m, 5.8

5. 30m, 5.9

6. 20m, 5.10b

7. 30m, 5.10 a/b

8. 30m, 5.9

9. 15m, 5.8

Scramble up/walk off for 50m to rejoin Tunnel Mountain Hiking Trail.

Funky short route tucked away by itself, next to the very blank bullet hard scooping wall on a blunt arête. A steep climb with a tufa and great crimps. Sustained climbing for two bolts! Great for grade, if only it was longer.

Obscure location - the wall to the left of Personal Pleasure, good luck finding it. New hardware, great warm Up for the area.

Further hikers left from Personal Pleasure Wave, is two routes on a Chalky wall above industrial playground. Winterfell is the route climbing left. A balancey slab move gains a a face climb. Another balancey move gains a gaston to crimp to undercling in the "hole" of the wall. Climber constantly climbs to the left of the bolts and a few long draws help.

A fun flake climb to a awkward mantel and finish. Very questionable rock. Has been cleaned loads but still.........blame the pomey, Dav Stevens for deciding to bolt choss. Left of winterfell

Just below Winterfell and Hodor, is a small slab just directly above Industrial Playground (The Charltan 10.b/c can access it). It can be accessed by Personal pleasure waves or by walking across the goat trail or start of pitch 2 of Funky Town's 10c/d pitch. My personal thinking was to bolt a new 2 pitches above the middle of Industrial Playground thus creating a new multi-pitch, but choss and vegetation ruined my endeavors from Charltans anchors. I have walked from Charltans anchors to The hound, but it isnt enjoyable. Thus these funny short routes are developed as my first bolted routes. Belay can clip in to bolt on wall. The route always climbs to the left of the bolts. A funny crux move between the 1st and 2nd bolt gains a flake to the left. Easy climbing above.

This short slabby face climb is a great warm up for the area.

This technical face slab climb has a crux just getting to the first bolt.

Following the line of Black hangers, micro-crimp and pinch your way up the delicate solid slab. Once you clip the 2nd bolt you can breathe again. Shares the same anchor as “Pinin’ For The Fjords”. Offirmo is Latin for determination/to hold firm.

It’s all in The feet! A great steep slab. If you can make it past the 2nd bolt the rest is in the bag.

Brown hangers over a tiny roof.

Climb the left side of a shallow scoop via edges and sidepulls to a small roof. Vertical climbing gains the anchor.

Burly? Sarcasm. Climb over a small roof with great feet. Slabby face climbing leads to another roof with good feet.

Climb through a large white rock scar to a small roof. A short in your face Crux gives way to easier climbing

Start below a small mossy left facing corner. Climb up and through a small corner and finish with some slabby face climbing.

Fun flake climbing down low gains a balancey vertical crux. Trust the feet!

From the top of the moss ledge, slopery steam Crux in your face! Another mini Crux gains the small ledge under the roof. Positive holds on the roof! Enjoy the beauty chert band ontop. Great quality

Branches out from Pushing the envelope after the mini Crux gaining the small ledge under the roof. Beauty chert band above.

Head for a short left facing corner with a thin crack above it. Technical!

Pull the super fun roof, into a intricate technical section. Long climbing on amazing chert band to finish it.

After climbing over a low roof, enjoy easier climbing moves that end at a high fun slabby Crux.

Stiff for grade, probs a better 10.a. Traverse left for three bolts with no feet

Starts right next to "Look Mum no hands". 5.8, 5.10c, 5.11d. Great Quality last pitch. Rap the routes

The rusty hardware leading out of the cave up hill from scoop area. It is landmarked by a white rope hanging from it. Open project set in the 1970-80's and looks to go around 5.13+ 5.14.

A few positive holds start this pitch before the climbing turns grim.

Climb the left side of a short hanging pillar. Pure friction lies above

Smear up a left facing groove to anchors at the final bolt. Short

Enjoyable CLIMBING UP CLEAN, GREY STONE, ENDS AT AN ANCHOR BELOW A PATCH OF WHITE ROCK.

Easy climbing on edges to a cheeky move to the anchor.

Begin up a left trending ramp and finish straight up on edges with a couple friction moves to keep the climbing interesting.

Stiff for grade, closer to 10.b esocially with the run outs. Climb straight up the middle of the scoop on edges, pinches and slopers.

Work up the steep, right side to the fifth bolt and trend right onto the face.

ascend a steep slab on edges just right of the scoop.

Blocky pinches and cool chert edges.

This great route has a short lived crux down low that is followed by balancey edge climbing all the way with a couple of mini cruxes.

Balancey moves lead to a thin crux and then easier, but still involved climbing. This route is land marked by a small roof at its 5th bolt.

Balancey and thin

A low crux is followed by nice climbing and a finial tough section pasta small roof near the top. Sustained

A fun adventurous route that is super popular in the morning sun. Two pitches include chert rock. Walk off.

• 5.10a, 5.8, 5.10c, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.9 chert, 5.8 A0 (3 bolt ladder), 5.10a chert

• 206m

To get to Dancing Sasquatch, park at Surprise Pass corner down from the Banff Centre. Approach as for The Shoe and Gonda Roof area. At the wall, go left for five metres to the route.

Pitch one: Up slab to left-facing corner past a tree. Up another corner and slab to notch past right-facing corner. Move right past bolt 8 and up “staircase” past bolt nine to anchor right of bush. (5.5, 30m)

Pitch two: Left up corner to fun climbing up crack feature. Stay left using big flakes and move right past bolt 6 into right-facing crack to anchor. (5.6, 30m)

Pitch three: Up right following bolts on black chert. The rock is friable. Keep your feet low on the big grey steps and use the black rock for your hands. Well bolted because of the traverse past five bolts then up to bolt six and seven on good holds before the anchor. (5.7, 20m)

Pitch four: Lead/walk up and left along the rising ledge and around to the forest past a short rock step. (3rd class)

Descent: Walk off trail takes you to the road in 200 metres / Gear: 10 quickdraws, one 60-metre rope.

New route as of April 2017. The route required a few days to clean. The first ascent was by Gripped editor Brandon Pullan and Gaby James in April 2017.

Alternate Finish to Le Soulier

First route you see. Awkward ledges lead to an easy bulge and some slab climbing.

Obvious moves into a cruxy roof. Finish with some easy climbing.

An awkward roof into some easy climbing on top.

climb a series of whiteoverlaps and finish on cool rock.

Start with a bunch of underclings and sidepulls to transition into a crimpy finish.

Easy for grade. Enjoy fun climbing on jugs down low, crimps up high and two small roofs.

Edge climbing leads to a few small roofs.

Climb up a flakey left facing corner. Crimps on top will cause hesitation before cruising to easier moves that lead to a small roof. A larger roof guards the anchor.

Climb over a left facing flake and finish along the edge of the roofs. Some down-climbing or traversing may be needed if rappelling/lowering off a 60m rope -- tie a knot in the end.

Climb up a small, left facing corner and into a small right facing corner above.

Goes just left of a tree on the wall -- just goes on a 60m rope, but tie a knot.

This fun route tackles a plumb line up flakes and edges. At he anchors of Who’s Afriad of The Black Bear, get ready to take on the roof.

Start at an obvious break and climb easily to a ledge. Technical climbing to a rail and finish straight to the anchors.

Flake climbing down low leads to a big diagonal break at the base of a right facing corner. A healthy spacing of bolts will keep you on your toes. There is a route called Force Full (10b) that starts at the anchors and finishes past the roof.

The extension to the Force, gaining a remarkable position.

Hard to tell the grade as it feels the same as it’s neighbour, theres two definite slabby techy moves. Sustained small edges and thin crimps

Sustained edge climbing. Excellent and technical. 2 pitches

2 pitches, first pitch is sustained 5.10b/c on edges and crimps. Second pitch is super fun, airy and the same, techy!

An fun little classic for its grade. Climb the juggy flake, transfer to a easy slab move, layback the juggy crack. One of the best for grade in the valley

Start on Dude and branch right at the second bolt.

Begin in front of a large tree and follow a rightward traversing line over some nice cert bands.

Start below a ledge at four meters. Balancy climbing leads to a mid height roof.

Fun sustained climbing on excellent rock.

Fantastic rock, technical and fun

A 3 pitch route with varied climbing

Furthest route on the left. Powerful climbing on small positive holds for the first few bolts to 5fun climbing above.

Big move off the ground to gain cracks. Climb up through some questionable rock using funky holds.

Start at the shallow right facing corner and traverse up and left, easier above.

Left most route on the big slab. More interesting than its neighbor.

Slab to big moves into a feature and beautiful incut holds to the top. Might feel harder than 5.11b if you don't have a big reach.

History: After the third bolt is a leeper self drive from the 1970s. It was part of a route called Side Step and was added by Urs Kallen. It went hard right on to the chert and they'd rappel a tree, the big dead one that's been blown over.

The right most route on the slab. Traverse up and left on the slab to the wave. Super fun climbing through the steep section which you wished goes on forever gets you to easier climbing to the top.

Next to Ballista to the right is a chossy little cave. This fun route climbs a crack up a overhanging wall.

The green rope hanging on the beauty steep shield like wall.

This route is full bolted as a Alt line to Safe Haven's anchors utilizing the face below. The Crux is down low Followed by pumpy climbing. Still needs more cleaning on top