Showing all 40 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
16 R | Ship of Fools
Awful. It has been repeated and others should spare themselves the experience. Start 15 metres left of Oceanoid. It's supposed to be 1 metre right of all of the mank but it's hard to tell the difference between that and the climb. There's a low roof above a slab.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1987 | 40m, 2 | |||
19 | Shipboard Romance
The start shared with Ship Of Fools is not good but things appear to improve after that. They would want to. Start as for Ship Of Fools.
FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns (alt), 1987 | 40m, 3 | |||
19 | Damned Whores and God's Police
Start 2 metres left of Transatlantic Crossing, 10 metres left of Oceanoid.
FA: Maureen Gallagher & Karen Strojek, 1984 | 40m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Transatlantic Crossing
1
18
25m
2
18
15m
Start 8 metres left of Oceanoid, 1 metre right of the lowest part of the buttress, below corner leading to overhang.
FA: Hugh Foxcroft & Dave Gairns (alt), 1980 | 40m, 2 | |||
21 | Rainbow Warrior
Start as for Transatlantic Crossing, 8 metres left of Oceanoid.
FA: Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese (alt), 1985 | 40m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Voyage of the Damned
Quite good. Originally done in two pitches but belay stances are poor so better done as one. Start 6 metres left of Oceanoid, 2 metres right of Transatlantic Crossing, at short right-slanting orange corner. FA: Chris Baxter & Charlie Creese (alt), 2000 | 46m | |||
20 R | Rearranging Deckchairs
You have to squeeze them in. Pretty contrived and has some loose blocks. Start at small rib just right of Voyage Of The Damned.
FA: Kieran Loughran & James Falla (alt), 1986 | 45m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Halfway Damned
This is a good pitch. It may differ a little from the original route of Halfway Handsome but it is difficult to say by how much. Start at the slabby corner 3 metres left of Oceanoid. Can rap back down with a 70m rope. | 35m | |||
21 | Halfway Handsome
Great route. The original write-up has caused some confusion and given rise to the Halfway Damned variant. Start at the slabby corner 3 metres left of Oceanoid. FA: Keith Egerton, Jane Wilkinson & Peter Woodfield, 1983 | 45m | |||
21 | ★★ Raise the Titanic
Best done as a single mega-pitch although a semi-hanging belay can be had in Oceanoid. Start 1 metre left of Oceanoid. FA: Eric Jones & Chris Baxter (alt), 1986 | 52m | |||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid
1
17
45m
2
17
30m
Fantastic climb. The original route climbed the first pitch of Courage until above the grotty overhang and then traversed left. The route as described is vastly better. Start below the inset corner in recessed bay behind large Callitris pine.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Mark Shelton, 1976 FA: Glenn Tempest & Keith Egerton, 1976 | 75m, 2 | |||
19 | Courage
The left hand corner to the ledge below Aftermath, past some rotten rock and a lot of bird poo. Originally reversed the traverse of Jezebel to get off, but there are rap chains nearby if you prefer. FA: Roland Pauligk & Dick Laurence (1 aid), 1969 | 42m | |||
17 | ★ Carlton
An easier version of Courage. The right-hand inset corner. FA: Peter Canning, 1969 | 42m | |||
17 | Carlton Variant Start
Looks quite daunting for the grade. FA: John Chapman & Peter Watson, 1976 | 42m | |||
18 | ★★★ Sport Climb This You Bastards
Graunchy roof-crack at left end of terrace that Oceanoid Pitch 1 finishes at. FA: James Falla & Jon Bassindale, 1991 | 35m | |||
22 | Trenchsetter
Looking from the ground, there are three overhanging noses high on the left, pitch 2 takes the middle one. Finishing up Cold Storage makes a good finish, but the gear on it is as bad as the guide suggests. Start at the left end of the half way ledge on Oceanoid, right of the first nose with Sport Climb This You Bastards.
FA: Wendy Eden & Mike Raine, 2004 | 30m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Left Side of the Ocean
This is an OK alternative to second pitch of Oceanoid if you've been here before. Start as for pitch 2 of Oceanoid through initial bulge then head up right to a chalked-up horizontal. Mantle onto the orange wall and continue up slab keeping left of Oceanoid. Finish just left of the bottomless corner. FA: Glenn Tempest & Phillip Armstrong, 1979 | 35m | |||
20 | ★★ Close to the Edge
Traversing similar territory as the excellent Trinity Wall, this route is not as sustained as its neighbour below, but provides similar bowel churning exposure. Start as for Left Side Of The Ocean, and follow this to join Oceanoid P2. A few metres before the chimney of Oceanoid, find the line that traverses right on poor feet. The pitch passes the Aftermath double bolt belay, soon reaching easier territory. FA: Glenn Tempest & Keith Egerton, 1976 | 38m | |||
21 | ★★★ Trinity Wall
Outrageous traverse. Take lots of slings, double ropes if you have them and a solid second. Start as for second pitch of Oceanoid. Once traversing right, keep going directly right, towards white hanging corner. There is a line of chalked holds higher up leading you to try and reverse the crux of Atlantis. Resist the temptation to go there. FA: Chris Shepherd & Jim Thomas, 1982 | 30m | |||
25 | ★ The Bradford Lads
Greasy, flaring crack leading to steep wall. Start at the crack leading to the white-marbled corner. FA: Glenn Tempest & Marty Beare, 1983 | 55m | |||
23 | ★ Atlantis
A dramatic outing with a desperate bouldery start that is strenuous to protect. It was originally climbed with a massive diversion out left into Oceanoid. Start right of The Bradford Lads at the left of 2 weaknesses through the huge roof.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 75m, 2 | |||
25 R | ★ Dead Americans
Wild roofing country with a dangerous start that can be avoided by starting up either Atlantis or Aftermath. Belay as for the start of Atlantis. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 25m | |||
25 R | ★★★ Aftermath
An overdose of overhang, originally done as a post-exam celebration. The right-hand weakness through the overhang, right of Atlantis. Start off the left end of the niche past some rusty fixed micro wires. Try and place something better for the goey start with potential fall onto ledge. After initial bulge, head left and into TW before left again to bolt and exciting finish. Rap anchor. FA: Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett (all aid), 1969 | 30m, 1 | |||
26 | ★ Aerial Boundaries
The bulge right of Aftermath, over roof past bolt to Trinity Wall anchor. FA: Scott Camps & Alistair Mark, 1989 | 15m, 1 | |||
22 | A Night of Heavy Drinking
Start on ledge right of Aftermath, on the line of Five Fingered Mary.
FA: Tony Dignan & Greg Child, 1987 | 60m, 2 | |||
13 | ★ Jezebel
1
13
35m
2
8
15m
3
13
36m
A wandering route that takes in some impressive country even if the climbing itself is not brilliant. Start as for Hurricane Lamp Cracks.
Seeing as you've come this far, if you are in the mood for adventure, there are another two optional pitches to entertain you ...
FA: Chris Baxter & Darryl Carr, 1967 | 86m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★★ Five Fingered Mary
1
16
42m
2
18
24m
3
18
24m
4
20
15m
A cliff-splitting weakness that is big on atmosphere but not necessarily enjoyment. The R rating is from the rock, not the gear. It has been known to calve huge blocks with the climber attached so be cautious. A 5 camalot will be appreciated. Start below the huge cleft.
Don't listen to the haters. The last pitch has great gear and is 20. Bring a 6. FA: Pitch 1 : Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst., 1967 FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood some aids & variant finish 13., 1974 FA: roof finish : Greg Child & Andrew Thomson, 1976 FA: Baxter & Stone removed the aids in., 1978 | 110m, 4 | |||
23 | Prevarication Left Hand
Start as for Prevarication. Go up and left then traverse right to finish up the prow above the crux of Prevarication. FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher & Geoff Little, 1985 | 15m | |||
18 R | Prevarication
Good start and bold finish but the middle bit is nothing to write home about. Start on the buttress between Five Fingered Mary and Hurricane Lamp Cracks below a crack through an overhang at 8 metres.
FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1979 | 97m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Horus
1
20
45m
2
18
30m
3
14
30m
| 110m, 3, 1 | |||
21 | Cream Between
The wall between Ra and Horus. Led onsight before the bolt was added to the start of Ra. Nice moves and good protection. Worth doing if you are in the neighborhood. FA: Duncan McGregor & Glenn Tempest, 15 Aug 2017 | 15m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★ Ra
1
23
2
24
Pumpy, balancy, and technical.
FA: muki woods, Robert Mudie, Ben Sheppard, Blair Johnston & Patrick McGovern, 8 Oct 2017 | 30m, 2, 11 | |||
12 | ★★ Hurricane Lamp Cracks
1
12
25m
2
11
20m
3
11
20m
4
11
10m
5
8
43m
A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible. Start at the chimney 7 metres right of Five Fingered Mary.
FA: Chris Baxter & Reg Williams, 1965 | 120m, 5 | |||
17 | The Shipping News
Takes the hanging buttress between Hurricane Lamp Cracks and The Shroud. The overhang on pitch 3 is exciting. Pitch 2 is best avoided while the block is in place. Start as for The Shroud.
FA: Norm Booth, Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2000 | 68m, 3 | |||
23 | Fat Dude
Climb orange nose on right. Start at the first belay of Hurricane Lamp Cracks. FA: Glenn Tempest & Paul Daniels, 1981 | 30m | |||
10 | ★★ The Shroud
1
6
28m
2
10
22m
3
10
25m
4
8
43m
Another great outing up the front of the Pharos. Start 9 metres right of Hurricane Lamp Cracks at the foot of a deep crack.
FA: Unknown, 1965 | 120m, 4 | |||
10 | Samos
The line right of The Shroud and left of Spiral Staircase. The original line of Spiral Staircase went somewhere about the first pitch of this. The second pitch traversed off below the roofs to the line that is climbed now. Apparently originally climbed in the 1960s by Rob Taylor, who placed the pin. Start on the North east shoulder of the Pharos right of TS.
FA: Pritchard & Con Frances, 1996 | 110m, 4 | |||
8 | ★★ Spiral Staircase
Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.
FA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963 | 100m, 4 | |||
17 | ★★ Throwim way leg
If you only scare yourself on one route this year, make this the one. A fantastically scary (but safe) through a large roof a long way up the Pharos. The best grade 16 roof at Arapiles. Start from the right hand end of the large ledge at the end of Spiral Staircase's 2nd pitch beneath a crack through a roof. There used to be a 'map of Italy' hanging down, but that's gone.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 30m, 3 | |||
19 R | Kirsty and Jo's Climb
Scramble up slab of rock right of Spiral Staircase to steeper rock.
FA: Kirsty Hamilton, Jo Hofmann. Pitch 1 as described : Louise Shepherd & Deniis Kemp., 1990 | 45m, 2 |
Showing all 40 routes.