Routes as trad in Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)

This was originally graded 17 as the FA was quite straight-forward on hand jams. Repeats found it quite a bit harder, maybe because they were laybacking?

Originally graded 17 (as was Chocolate Frog), so the grade has been bumped up by the same amount. Could someone please repeat both in the same day and provide feedback?! It is also believed that Peter Stebbins may have done a direct start into this line past a bolt, at grade 19. Confirmation of this would also be appreciated.

This is the direct start with BR into Chocolate Frog done with Andrew Stevens

Hard pumpy direct start (BR) into Gunga Din.

Takes the line up the proudest section of the orange wall. Climb pumpy overhang to the roof, R a few moves, then pull up and traverse spectacularly back L along the lip of the roof, and up.

Obvious jam cracks in wall 5m R of Flying Blind. Marked with a square.

Has some loose rock.

This looks quite ok! Starts next to chossy chimney and climbs a rising traverse R, leading into a great looking traverse line.

Never written up, but reportedly a route has been done up the beautiful wall halfway along the 'Cucumber Sandwich' traverse.

Start 15m R of the chossy chimney and immediately R of smooth orange wall. Up corner / arete, leading to a juggy chimney up high.

Front of small buttress 5m R of Mongoose, straight up, finishing through small roof.

Corners to small roof, take this up right-hand side and up to top.

5m right of Drop Tail

4m right of Boots And All. There may be two ferns in a crack here. Up to small roof and over this.

3m right of Two Fern. Crack.

3m right of Silly Old B. Diagonal crack to the right, then corner.

Crack 1m left of Grabbin' Runners for 15m and step right to finishing ledge of that climb.

6.5m right of Toasting Fork.Up to thin move right then straight up.

Up to flake 1 right of Grabbin' Runners then up and right.

2.5m right of (? Electric Pink). Straight up.

Wall 3m right of Gettin' Hungry, veering slightly left.

2m right of Gettin' Hungry

9.5m right of Gettin' Hungry

Why did Kevin bother with this pathetic excuse for a bolted boulder problem? One crap bolt also scars what could have been an all trad crag.

Start: Towards the far left end of the cliff is an alcove with a large sandy boulder. This is the left leaning line marked with white paint.

A chossy, vegetated and overhanging diagonal.

Start: 2m right of 'Loaded'. Marked.

More un-inspirational stuff.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Black Powder'.

One move wonder down low.

Start: The overhanging blocky crack 10m right of 'Buckshot'. Finish up the left leaning juggy crack to ledge.

Excellent climbing with a very technical finish. One of the only Scott Camps projects that he actually managed to get up!

It's short but desperate. One of the only true finger-cracks in the area.

Start: The overhanging thin crack 3m right of 'Crazy Da Must Sing' and in the centre of the crag. A large hold snapped off a few years ago, making it one grade harder, and giving the belayer a fair injury, but it could've killed him 30cm to the left.

Steep, powerful and bloody awkward for gym bunnies.

Start: Starts a few metres right of 'Powder Monkey' on the right edge of ledge.

Brutal boulder problem intro and easy finish.

Start: Starts beneath the left of the twin recessed corners which start halfway up the cliff on the big ledge just right of Karma-lites.

Thrutch fest!

Start: The right hand of the two corners.

A total sandbag with a finish that is rather exciting.

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Kalashnikov'.

Short bouldery start which eases considerably in the upper half.

Start: Starts around 6m right of 'Primed'.

A contrived and pointless bouldery start leads to a good variant finish to 'Greyhounds In Space'.

Start: Start 3m right of Greyhounds.

Nice face route. A bit short.

Start: Start 4m left of 'Levitation' at far left end of wall.

Wickedly hard start. Thin wall special up tortoise shell rock.

Start: Marked. Goes up the middle of a small north facing wall that you pass on the left on your way into the Amphitheatre.

Another pumpy thin face on excellent shell rock.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Levitation'. Marked.

Squeezed in.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Airplay', just left of corner.

Short and ordinary.

Start: Start about 8m around right of 'Airplay' and 4m left of a wide scrubby corner.

A bit contrived. Grade may vary according to exact line taken.

Start: Start 1m right of 'Bolt Action Directe' at thin right-leading crack.

A pumpy rising traverse that barely gets more than five metres from the ground. Some would call this a highball boulder problem.

Start: Located on wall opposite 'Bolt Action'. Start at left end of wall in alcove at well chalked slopers.

Can be finished either by stepping left to easier ground (20) or gently right to high jug (22).

Start: Start as for 'Pump Action' but continue straight up wall.

Not the beginner route that Kevin tried to pretend it was.

Start: Starts on the front side of the 'Pump Action' boulder, facing the 'Hollow Mountain' carpark.

During or after rain a waterfall tumbles over the cliff directly below the Crankstart Amphitheatre. If it isn't flowing, start climbing! The newer sport routes on either side have effectively retrobolted a fair portion of this route.

Start: Starts a metre to the right of 'The Tyrants Grasp' but on the ground level.

The good fight.

Start: Start 10m right of 'Chinese Water Torture' at the incipient corner.

Easy choss crack climbing.

Start: Start beneath the right side of the 'Amnesia' Pillar.

1. 20m (13) Up mossy slab for 5m to roof. Skirt right under this for 3m. Up wide right facing chossy mossy flake to belay on ledge behind pillar.

2. 25m (13) Up the orange wall to traverse right until able to move up the guano covered pillar. Continue right to jugs and up.

Wandery arete and ledge climbing on suss rock.

Start: The arete just right of 'Amnesia'.

1. 15m (15) Up the right side of the arete, side runner at 5m, to the cave.

2. 10m (15) Up the flake on the left side of the arete to the top of the pinnacle. Cross over to the main cliff and finish up 'Private Investigations' (a tyrolean traverse should not be required).

Wall climbing mediocrity.

Start: Located about 10m left of the chimney on north facing grey wall that sits at a 90 degree offset to the main cliff.

Start: Start at the steep flake on the left side of the wall. Up the flake to traverse right 5m at the obvious horizontal, then the line above to the top.

Start 3m right of 'Western Ayatollahs' at a short, shallow, left-facing corner. Take some medium cams and wires for placements between the bolts. Up the corner past a fixed hanger. Pull up right onto the shoulder and move up past the second fixed hanger to the horizontal break. Straight up the orange wall past three more fixed hangers.

The original, and still one of the best. Take a normal trad rack.

Starts at the thin seam with a fixed hanger.

Excellent, varied climbing up the dominant line on the proudest section of this wonderful wall. The spectacular and exposed finish is the icing on the cake. Take a reasonably full trad rack. Climb the first 6m as for 'Crank Start' to the obvious horizontal break. Move a metre right into the line and follow this up to surmount the rightward-leaning pillar to a seat beneath the final headwall. Move past a fixed hanger and around the little roof, then clip the next fixed hanger and make some spectacular moves up and right around the lip of the summit roof.

Old school trad wall climbing. Some of the rock is a bit fragile in places.

Excellent gymnastic climbing with crux sections at each of the three fixed hangers. Straightens out 'Pass Laws' and adds a direct finish. Take some trad gear to augment the fixed protection. Start as for the bouldery start of 'Pass Laws' then, instead of the little shimmy left, up and right, head straight up past the second hanger to the obvious traverse line. Continue up directly, past the third hanger.(Upgraded from 24 to 25)

Starts about 3 or 4 metres right of 'Pass Laws'. It is easy to stick clip the first hanger if you so wish. Pull into the grey scoop and out right, then up to the big horizontal break (RB). Through the bulge, past a fixed hanger (crux) and up past four more. A few wires are handy to protect the top.

Starts about 3 or 4 metres right of 'Sendero Luminoso' and a couple of metres left of the easy stuff. Up the wall past a fixed hanger to the horizontal break. Move a couple of metres left to a pocket and head up immediately right of this through the bulge past a second fixed hanger. Trend left to join 'Sendero Luminoso' at its fourth bolt and follow that route to the top.

A great climb that deserves more ascents.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Private Investigations', from the boulder.

Better than some and worse than others. The second pitch is nice.

Start: Starts in the bushes 5m down right of 'No Fixed Address'.

1. 15m (16) Up steep initial wall via a horizontal break, then up ledge (small tree on left) and a slabby arete to a mega-ledge.

2. 10m (16) The big corner at the back of the ledge.

A landmark stunning layback.

Start: This left facing ultra wide corner crack is hard to miss.

Delicate slabbing and one of the best long beginner routes in the area. A slight variant of this route was claimed as Swiss Cheese 47m 14 by Richard Morris in 1986.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Layback' And Think at left end of slabby wall.

1. 16m (13) Up the thin slab (crux with marginal gear) moving left towards the arete. Pass the left side of small tree via thin right leading crack to belay below a slight bulge. You can link this pitch with the 2nd pitch on a 60m rope for a good long adventure.

2. 40m (10) Follow the left leading juggy crack for 10m, up the wall above for another 10m passing a wide crack then straight through the small overhang to large belay ledge with bollards galore.

3. 30m (7) Follow your nose up easy jugs to the top. This pitch is pretty crappy. Best to just bail off left or find the rap slings and descend.

A good slabby line but a little mossy in places. Protecton can be fiddly to find and place in certain sections.

Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Paperclip' on ledge accessed by scrambling up under chockstone.

Looks more intimidating than the original.

Start: Start as for 'Orange Blossom Special'.

Variant middle to 'Orange Blossom Special'.

Start: From the block at the base of 'Orange Blossom Special', traverse about 2m out left then straight up via yellow streak to join Orange Blossum Special at the left end of the roof. A #5 hex protects the high crux.

Struggles to stay away from the jugs on the left. Another pleasant slab but has silly bolting with huge runouts.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'The Wide Crack Adventure', but on top of ledge accessed via chockstones under block. You can also start as for 'The Wide Crack Adventure' and head rightwards at 5m.

Runout slab climbing.

Start: Start as for 'The Pregnancy Factor', but follow the flake for 2m more past the dark rock then straight up on good turtle shell rock just to the left of the BR on 'The Pregnancy Factor'.

A splitter line from afar which seems to have been un-recorded for some strange reason. Another good beginner route.

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Paperclip' below striking wide crack line blasting up slab.

Nice shady crack climbing. A very obvious trad corner that just needed a bolt to get started.

Start: Starts up on high ledge (scramble up easy stuff 10m left of Guernica).

Sandy wide crack connects into hard sport route.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Slippety Slope'.

Sandy and runout. A real adventure!

Start: Takes the south eastern arete of the block with a very exciting finish. Protection is pretty crap most of the way up.

You either love it or hate it.

Start: Climbs the blank face right of 'Guernica' with several BR's.

Totally desperate.

Start: Instead of bailing off to the left, continue up the very thin face past a few more BR's. Unrepeated?

A simply stunning arete with a real hard grit feel. Recently retrobolted, which removed the once vital RP above the 2nd bolt.

Start: This is the square cut prow 10m right of 'Guernica'.

A good line which unfortunately doesn't live up to expectations due to soft rock.

Start: Takes the obvious broken crack that splits the north face of the 'Guernica Block' about 5m right of 'That Fearful Vortex'. Triples of hand and fist crack sized cams are useful. Rap off manky sling below mega choss.

Curving s-crack which is hidden behind a tree. Not really climbable wihout tying the tree back out of the way!

Start: Follow the crack 5m right of Where The Woozle Wasn't to the break, then bop up and left to the belay in the cave on WTWW. Rap off manky sling.

Start 11m left of Dys Funk Shin. Easily up to first RB then on to second RB heading straight up, following line of least resistance, finishing directly above first RB at DRB rap anchor on ledge. 5 RBs

Start 8m left of Dys Funk Shin. 5 RBs & trad gear to finish at DRB rap anchor just below ledge. Possibly a bit harder for shorties. Rap-anchor on ledge.

Start 5m left of Jurassic Park at RB. Follow faint grey water streak past second RB. Passing 3 FHs Streak turns black near top. Rap-anchor on ledge

A left hand variant to 'Jurassic Park'. Follow that climbs dog-leg crack until it forks. Follow the left hand crack system which curves left then right, then finish up the headwall via a black streak directly up the start of the climb. A big wire in a hole between two hand holds protects the final headwall.

Excellent fun climbing despite its daunting appearance.

Start: Up the dog leg crack left of 'A Long Way From Verona'. Continue straight up over a bulge then traverse up right 4m until a vertical weakness-come-crack leads to the top.

Wonderful wall climbing with a fair bit of air below your feet on several sections. Very Blue Mountains.

Start: Start 5m left of 'Giblets' as a short flake/corner.