Routes as sport in Mt Stapylton Campground

Far left most route. Start direct under the first bolt at grade 21, or climb in from the left at 20. A tricky mantle in the middle spoils the pumpy slopy fun. Five RBs and lower-off. Be wary of the last few metres, the jugs are a bit too big for comfort.

First cracked bolt has now been replaced (2022), fifth bolt on the route is now also cracked(2024). Best to stay off until all the bolts on this line have been replaced.

Possibly the best route at the Guardhouse. Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall. 5 UBs and double UB lower-off.

A punchy start (sandbag?) leads to a sustained finish through and around the roof. Stick clip the first bolt, then four more to the anchors.

3rd bolted line from the left: RB then FH then RBs the rest of the way.

Short punchy number. The 4th bolted route from the left with the white stained scoop in the middle. Up slopers to roof heuco. Over this on incuts then one final tough move to jugs. Chain anchor. 4 RBs.

Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold at second bolt, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. It can be extremely difficult to put a draw on the third bolt because the ring is recessed quite deeply (it depends on what type of 'biner you use, some skinny ones go on easily, others are impossible). Double RB lower off.

Weaves around black streak on far right side of main wall. Bouldery start up slopers and slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to rest stance then up past RB and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs. Five RBs and DRB lower-off.

A good warmup before heading up to the terrace. Starts left of Fractionally Flamed and follows the juggy steepness. 5RBs and rings to lower.

Sandy slopers. Starts back at ground level and 40m right of the main wall. White clean streak on otherwise juggy grey wall. A tad runout for the inexperienced. 3 RBs and lower-off.

Start off big slopey pocket, head up trending riight to anchors shared with My Body is a Cage. Can be wet after rain

Start off block, head left under 2 bolt along tricky rail a up and back right to jug and 3rd bolt, head up to anchors shared with Tech Noir

First line of bolts, to the left of the start of the access traverse.

Link up. Climb Easier Puzzle and after the fourth bolt trend up and left to join Green Moon at the fourth bolt.

Originally a trad route retrofitted with 4RBs some time prior to 2015. Takes the middle of the three warm up lines at the start of the fixed rope. Finish at anchors for HSHM.

Steep and juggy sport warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse at single u-bolt belay. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Runout between bolt 1 and 2 is a bit scary.

Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB's then up scoops on jugs (2 RB's) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off.

An excellent bonus finish to 'Media Puzzle'. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 extra FH's then up to chains (crux).

November 2016 - first FH on extension is loose!

A bit stupid. Starts 2m right of Media Puzzle - up a few metres then traverse left to join MP. Climb all the way to top of cave. Ignore bolt out left Bolted by Monty in the dark ages.

Short and brutal in true Nowra fashion. A direct start to 'Antics'. Starts 10m right of Media Puzzle at ground level. Three FH's. Either lower off first bolt on 'Antics' or continue outwards for the full grade 26 finish.

Anyone say girdle? A scuttling novelty route across a big roof. Originally attempted on trad – but after Neil pulled a huge block off the lip and plummeted headfirst onto the halfway ledge it was decided to bolt it. Climb to first bolt on 'Stepping on Snakes', traverse left across 'Army of Ants' to big ledge. Walk left across this to FH and keep going across line (big cams) to roof flake (FH). Out impressive 3m roof and up steep arete past RB to lower off bolts.

Line of FHs through roof left of 'Antics'. Start as for MD. 2 boulders broken by no hands rest. Bolted by Monty in 2004.

Another HB signature roof route. Follow 'Army of Ants' to first bolt, then traverse left to ledge. Climb left leading roof flakes through 5m ceiling directly above the ledge past 4 FH's to lip. Back jump to clean. No anchor.

Short, powerful and popular. Start just right of small arete in centre of cave at ground level. Don't wear slip-ons unless you're OK with losing a shoe mid-route! Thin reachy face to start precedes big dynamic moves up steep wall and finish via big scoopy roof 1 FH & 4 RB's. Lower off chain.

Classic steep thugging. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five RB's and double RB lower off. Watch your back when lowering off.

Easier start just right of SOS – then finish left as for SOS through the roof. 4 U-bolts.

Self explanatory. Far right side of cave. A 'Nowra' style mini pumpfest. Three RB's up steep orange wall. Double RB lower off at top.

Great easy sport route! Left most bolted line on right edge of roofy section. Big jugs up slightly overhung wall finishing at bolt anchor slightly to the right. Retrobolted - originally a trad route.

Starts about 4m right of 'Fot as Huck'. Long reaches between good holds trending left to the same anchor as 'Fot as Huck'. Originally a trad route.

Located on a separate buttress 10m directly up above and behind Dagwood Dog. Access by scrambling up via a cairned slot at the left end of Bikram Bloc. Fun climbing with a great outlook through gentle bulges flirting with the arete. Should be a hoot (aka dyno) if you are short. It receives all day sun in winter and late arvo shade in the summer.

Face starting immediately L of TOC veering up and L to the 3rd RB then continuing straight up to the anchors. Rap rings at belay.

The first bolted line you come to on the approach track. Wrestles its way up the arete on the left end of the wall. Rings at belay.

A little short but has awesome sustained and technical face moves. The second ring bolted route up the middle of the clean face on the left side of the block. Sun from around lunchtime. Rap rings at belay.

Starts in the shallow corner 2m R of DD. Follow the crack system up and slightly R, stepping back left as it steepens. Originally lead on fiddly trad. Still a touch licheny.

Steep fun just right of the corner, 8m right of DD. Double U anchor, best to rap to clean.

Tricky start then cruisy yet thought provoking face climbing. Clip and lower anchor. Sun from late arvo.

Arch those eyebrows. More thin and consistent face climbing. Stick clip the first bolt, watch your back, and no bridging on the boulder. Double U’s at anchor.

Steep hard thing on the left.

Gently overhanging with great moves on pockets then a steep finish via a big scoop.

Pumpy water washed jugs up the orange streak on the right.

Back on the lower level. The left hand line in the big orange scoopy wall. Tricky start moves to shelf, then glorious overhanging jugs to double ring anchor.

Middle of the proud orange face hides a tricky move before venturing through the wild roof flake. The headwall can also be climbed for the full tick but adds significant rope drag. Use the fixed hardware and imagination to clean without too much hassle.

Extremely pleasant moves with an obvious one move crux. Follow the grey streak diagonally to arête moving right at the horizontal break. Up the headwall to clip & lower.

Around the corner from Forget Me Not. Short but good pumpy fun with all day shade.

Just R of the large gum. Easy fun on amazing holds with just one tricky but very well protected move. Clip and lower anchor.

Quality climbing on a nice wall at a very fun grade. Clip and lower anchor.

Up clean orange face and up through the crux roof pull 3m R of GOTTV. Clip and lower anchor.

Originally onsighted with barely any gear and and a terrifying second pitch through the death flakes. Now a fun easy sport route.

Use the two cracks to gain the ledge then up nice face above. Say hi to the stone baby guarding the belay.

Muscle up the overhanging corner via amazing pockets that beg for a three points off moment, before cresting over into steep slab territory.

Starts in the scoop 4m R of Stallone, diagonally up to break, traverse then pull the lip trying to stay off the holds on Stallone then slab to rings.

Demolition Direct - Direct start via undercut arete

Leave the faff pack on the ground and enjoy this tasty clip up. Start up the right leaning crack, pull the lip trending left of the third bolt and gobble up the fantastic face above. Any bridging along the way will cost you a grade or three.

Over the chasm right of FP. Originally started off the block at around 18, now also has a direct start from the ground. Clip and lower anchors. One hope, one quest.

Face 3m R of RM reaching L through the roof. Rap ring loweroff.

5m R of RM. Bouldery fun with some killer moves. Don’t let the seasonal waterfall and somewhat scrappy rock at the start put you off. Seeps at the start (to put it mildly) after rain. Final RB can be tricky to spot in the heat of the moment and is skipped by some.

The steep modern sport line a few metres right of CB requires plenty of oomph and some new school trickery. 7RB plus belayers directional to rap rings.

Roof line with the crazy looking U bolts. 10m R of CB through the cave roof, please stay off for now.

Short, steep line with tricky moves getting past that big tummy. Stays in the shade later than most routes in the vicinity.

Starts 3m to the left of the first bolt on The Cubans in the corner on nice jugs. Supersedes Toby’s trad route Mortein Pig, which climbed up the right trending ramp after the initial corner to the Anchor on TC.

Either traverse in or go nuts and cut loose at the start. Long, consistent and absorbing at the grade. Named after some particularly memorable sandwiches. Stick clip advised for first bolt.

Gently bold but who doesn't like some cinnamon spice? Line of RBs right of The Cubans. Start on the blunt arête and meet up with the right trending ramp. Mind the shallow ledges on the way to the well protected crux and the victory jugs.

The next line to the R linking into CBB up high. More superb climbing. Stick to the left at the crux.

Good fun! Up the shallow corner and golden honey slab above. Initially led with one bolt and specialty pro. The anchors smell like honey but don't lick them.

Nice slabbing staying mostly on the dark weathered streak past the bolts to clip & lowers.

The crack line right of Durry Puncher, ending at the same anchors. Originally climbed on gear but now converted to a fun sport ramble. To start either bridge off the tree, traverse in from the left, or add two grades and climb it direct.

Five metres past the little waterfall that marks the right end of the Smokers Corner area. Perplexing start to good slabbing, the line of FH's.

2m R of Terabithia. Step off the blocks to gain the big slot. Over the rooflet following the runnels of least resistance to the large ledge and DBB. Lower now or belay and abseil for the full adventure.

Thin and steep bolted slab with superb technical moves 2m R of FPA.

Starts in the little alcove. Thin techy bolted slab. Runout but very easy climbing to the anchors.

Bolted slab & arete. Either start as ROC or bridging is permitted while getting yourself established.

20m Right of Idiot Sandwich. Bridging fun starting either off the boulder at base or up the crack. Clip & lower anchor.

First bolted line left of the boulder. Steep start to bulges to slab. Rings at belay.

Middle ring bolted line. Steep start past the chin to bulges. Rings at belay.

Novelty route! To keep the grade consistent at 16 crawl through the hole into the cave and tie in from there. Rings at belay.

Another hilarious novelty route. Stick clip the belay anchor on the podium and figure out how to get across safely... Awesome steep jugs. Take care when lowering as the rope will always end up settling into the funnel below the anchors. To prevent a jammed rope and getting stuck in space either rap off or if lowering ensure the climber's side of the rope is nestled into the groove first, belayers side on top.

Pocketed face on average sandy rock that stays dry in rain to the right of ‘The Jump Line’. Hard extension through the bulges is an open project waiting for a strong climber.

The crazy looking roof line. STAY OFF.

Initially climbed as a bold ground up trad lead, this line is now a popular sport adventure! The tall line to the right of the Recollection cave. Begin at a small finger crack below the big telephone thread. Follow the orange runnels, through the roof then charge up the headwall. Brilliant.

Curved seam with orange streak. Finish at lower off.

Originally a mixed route. Retrobolted as requested by the FA.

The clean arete right of TFC. Trundle up the blocky start then step on and resist any urge to bridge. Like kabana by the campfire, the don is the goods!

The clean and pumpy ring bolted face right of the Don. Beautiful pocketed start leads through a technical sequence of quality moves before jugs to the top.

In shade all day. The steep line at this wall is great fun despite the sandy start. The slightly ominous looking block at half height doesn't appear to be going anywhere anytime soon, but you know, be careful with it.

The following routes are all in the sun from mid afternoon. The first bolted line on the main wall. Reachy!

The black line. Can be a little wet in winter.

The ‘far right’ line on the cliff with a thin start.

Two starts - tall people start left at big crack. Stick-clip first ring bolt. Climb towards ring bolt then out left to jug, back into centre pockets and up. 3 rings in all, and triple rings on top.