Routes as trad in The Fortress Area

There is a buttress set forward of and slightly down from the main cliff. Curving crack line of left of the forward buttress. Dyno for first holds, up crack until forced 2 metres right under overhang. Up steep crack then traverse 3 metres left through overhang. Finish up easy ground. (Alternate finish at grade 21 is to go directly through overhang, right and up).

The easiest way to the halfway ledge and also the descent route. Start at the top of the little saddle. Climb from the top of the saddle to the ledge. There is one runner.

Just left of the saddle is a right-rising, discontinuous crack system. Follow the cracks at first then go straight up.

Follow the left-slanting dyke left of the corner all the way. Just below the roofline traverse 7-8 metres left to a small stance just below shattered terrace. Abseil from a shonky knob of rock (or tackle the horrific upper part of the cliff).

Start: Start at the base of the dirty corner.

Probably the best of the easy climbs here but, again, not well-protected.

Start: Start 45 metres left of the saddle, 15 metres left of the dirty corner.

A serious first pitch, loose and poorly-protected

1. 20m (19) From the right side of the ledge, climb up in a rising rightward line with care to a major horizontal break. Belay below a leftward-facing corner.

2. 25m (-) Good climbing leads up the corner to belay on the prow on the right.

3. 25m (-) On up the line to the top.

Start: Start 5 metres left of "Twisted Vista"

1. 20m (22) Go up then slightly right to a cosy belay immediately below the crack through the right edge of the huge triangular roof that undercuts the buttress

2. 25m (22) Around the roof and on to easier ground. When about 5 metres below the next huge roofline make a rising traverse left to a belay ledge and bolt.

3. 25m (-) An exciting lead off the ledge, above and slightly left of the bolt, gains a ledge. Now more easily to the top

Even more dramatic, this takes the hanging crack on the left side of the triangular roof. Climb friable rock 5 metres left of Pilot To Bombardier to below the crack. Exciting climbing leads through the bulge, then go up right and make the crux dyno well above protection for the belay ledge. Belay bolt on highest point of ledge. Abseil from bolt or continue up Pilot To Bombardier

Left wall of cleft, just right of arete. Start at small, undercut arete then tend left towards arete. At 20m traverse right above small roof and the continue up arete.

Start 10 metres right of cleft.

1. 18m Pull through roof at obvious flake and easily up wall just left of small corner.

2. Up face of pillar directly above, then wall.

The Wall of large knobs has a smooth grey central section; star directly below this. Up to and tending left across the smooth section and then back right to pull through roof at 30m, then up.

Start 35 metres right of wall of large knobs at right-leaning orange-edged flake-line. Up flake, or slab immediately right, to roof. Pull through roof immediately above flake and then on up past wedged block.

20 metres right of Cailaf is a grey arete with dull orange streaks in upper wall. Start 2 metres left of arete and go up to rooflet at 30m. Swing right on excellent holds around the arete and up.

A roof and grey wall left of 'Fragile Feelings'. ? starts at the arete 2 metres right of Woodstock leftovers.

1. 20m (15) Up the grey wall just left of the roof. Traverse right above the lip of the roof to belay below the smaller roof.

2. 30m (15) Up to the roof and heel-hook right. Jugs follow.

Not sure where this is in relation to Spanish Bombs.

1. 30m (9) Stepped corner which bounds righthand side of 'Fragile Feelings' wall to big ledge.

2. 7m (9) Cross slot to juggy right wall then up.

Right-facing corner 10 metres right of 'Fragile Feelings'. Up to top of corner, step right and up.

Not clear how this relates to the other climbs hereabouts. Start 40 metres right of The Swages Of Sin at a small wall. Up line 2 metres left of corner at right and join corner above vegetation. Up to ledge then up on jugs.

Directly up wall 2 metres left of Igreiga to the scoop on the right of the large triangular roof. Pull through roof on good holds, move left and up.

50 metres right of 'Spanish Bombs' is smooth grey wall and maybe a large gum growing against the cliff. If the tree is still there, that's where you start. Up, tending right near the top before pulling through the roof.

5 metres right of 'Igreiga', 1 metre left of wide corner. Up crack, continue up side of huge hollow flake and then wall above.

The crack 2 metres left of right end of small orange wall.

Travels through some pretty unfriendly country.

Start: Start at obvious corner system 12 metres left of Ghost Ships

1. 25m (18) Up the large corner to the roof. Step right and up to next roof then step right again and up to next roof. Step right to cramped stance.

2. 15m (18) Up right past the next roof and then traverse back left for 7 metres to good stance.

3. 30m (-) Up easily

Supposedly easier than it looks. If you beiieve that cal I interest you in a harbour bridge that I have available? Right-hand crack leading to roof.

1. 25m Up the obvious crack to roof. Follow roof-line up and right to arete.

2. 28m Up.

Traverse left through the rooves from the belay at the end of the first pitch of Ghost Ships.

Crack and chimney leading to righthand end of roof system.

1. 27m Up crack to roof then up diagonally right across wall on good holds then up arete to large ledge.

2. 28m Up.

Start at crack 10 metres right of Roaring Forties.

1. 27m Up crack to roof, traverse right to pedestal, steeply up then up easily to ledge of Roaring Forties.

2. 28m Up.

Start 10 metres right of cleft in large scooped out section of lovely orange wall. Traverse diagonally up right. Tricky move onto sloping ledge to move around arete, then up.

Start 15 metres right of 'Sidewinder'. Among the worst of the worst. Up dirty wall and then crack splitting slender buttress. Expect fragile rock.

Start 1 metre left of right arete. Straight up for 15 metres. Traverse right at break to arete. Up.

"Superb climbing on brilliant rock", Campbell Mercer.Start 4 metres left of right arete. Up crack, step right and up.

"Not one of the best climbs on the cliff". That should set the alarm bells ringing. "Not one of the best climbs on the cliff". That should set the alarm bells ringing. Up to the superb finger crack then avoid it by stepping left and up the large chimney-crack.

The right arete of the buttress with a very exposed second pitch.

Start: At the left hand end of the cliff below the right arete of a large buttress with a huge triangular roof high up. Start in a cave under a leaning block.

1. 24m (9) Up short wide crack and move right over block to arete. Up, bypassing roof via right wall. Traverse left above roof onto front of buttress to belay stance at continuation of original crack.

2. 44m (9) Climb initial overhang at crack then up wall trending left until angle eases. Now follow arete right and up to the Visor (run-out). Staright up headwall above visor to poor ti-tree anchors at top.

The left arete of the wall immediately left of Wizard Of Id rears up as a steep curving blade of rock. Grade not given in original description.

1. 35m (-) Easy angled arete becomes steeper at 15 metres. Continue through several bulges to a really nice belay.

2. 44m (-) Crux. Up just right of the edge. Where it bulges out left, climb straight up the bulging wall to the top keeping 2-3 metres from the edge.

A pleasant climb up the corner to the left of the great blank wall.

1. 35m (9) Climb the corner and belay somewhere.

2. 30m (9) Continue up the corner to a ledge beneath a steep wall.

3. 15m (9) Take the left-hand crack to the top.

Another big arete. Start as for 'The Wizard Of Id'.

1. 35m (-) Crux. Up 'The Wizard Of Id' for a few metres then the thin crack up the vertical arete on the right. Belay on a tiny stance on the left at the top of the crack, 3 metres below a roof on the arete.

2. 19m (-) Continue up past the roof. About 3 metres above the roof, a horizontal dyke forms an overlap with a foot-ledge above it. Pull onto the ledge and traverse right to the arete. Up easily to belay stance.

3. 25m (-) Easily up.

A great climb up a huge corner leads to a fragile finish.

Start: Start below the huge corner marking the right side of an impressive blank wall.

1. 50m (7) Climb the huge corner until the rope runs out.

2. 40m (-) Continue up the line until it runs out and finish up the juggy wall.

A pleasant first pitch.

Start: Start in the corner 10 metres right of 'Black Knight'.

1. 33m (12) Climb the corner for 20 metres and then traverse 2 metres right and up into the chimney line. Continue to a belay.

2. 40m (-) Continue up the line for 20 metres and then step right into a broken chimney which is climbed to a steep, juggy wall. Belay with care.

3. 27m (12) Continue up the steep wall.

Easy climbing on good rock in the depths of a massive formation.

Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Bastion' where two huge, juggy walls join to form a wide open-book formation. Scramble up to the line.

1. 45m (6) Move into the deep, hidden chimney and bridge up. Move right at 45 metres to a stance.

2. 45m (6) Up the line above the stance. Traverse left at 23 metres to another line that leads to a large ledge.

3. 10m (6) On up the line.

The corner and wall 5 metres left of the major corner.

A climb of quality. Take the major corner. Move right when below the roof and continue up the wall.

Climb the line right of 'Lioness' past a block and then traverse left into 'Lioness'.

Go 3 metres up the flake and step right. Climb the wall, mostly just left of the arete until the bulge. Take this via the main crack.

Start: Start 15 metres right of 'Lioness' at a flake-corner.

Start: Start 5 metres right of Mr Piggy's Train Ride.

1. 15m (20) Up groove, moving left at 8 metres to the next crack. Continue to a poor stance below the bulge.

2. 35m (20) Up the wall, trending right, easing dramatically after first 5 metres.

Wideish diagonal crack 10 metres right of 'Biggles Pulls It Off'.

Steep, well-protected, delightful climbing up wall.

Start: Start 2 metres right of the left-hand end of the wall.

Up flake 5 metres right of "Atom Ant" and then wall above.

Black streak 3 metres right of "Reckless"

In the middle of the wall is a dark chimney. Up 2 metres right of the chimney.

Thin series of diagonal cracks about 5 metres to the left of the right-hand edge of wall.

Thin stemming followed by vertical ocean of chickenheads.

Start: Start at the overhanging corner a few metres right of Passport To Insanity.

1. 20m (22) Bridge up the overhanging corner, surmount the overhang and continue easily to ledge on arete.

2. 35m (-) Up wall and groove on right side of arete to horizontal break. Traverse right.

3. 45m (-) Diagonally right up wall for 3 metres to deep groove. Bridge airily up this groove, which becomes a chimney, all the way. Descend by scrambling west down boulder-strewn chasm. Abseil 50 metres from bollard to ground.

"The best line in Australia...". Also notable for the fact that Nyrie Dodd's free ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 27.

The second pitch roof-crack could hardly be in a better position.

This is also a superb mixed climb at 20, M2 if the roof is aided. Sadly it is often under-estimated and the detritus of retreat is often evident. It is not a practice route.

The start is rather obvious.

1. 50m (20) Up wide crack. Belay at stance where crack ends, about 10m below the roof. A #5 cam is useful on this pitch.

2. 20m (27) Move R to gain nice rail that leads L to the back of the roof, and the start of the roof crack. Follow crack (at either 27 or M2) to the lip and then up to belay stance.

3. 40m (18) Ramble up to the top.

The second pitch has runout hard climbing. Objective danger in the form of a giant spider may be encountered on the final pitch.

Start: Start at the hand-crack 4 metres left of Passport To Insanity.

1. 35m (24) Overhanging hand-crack then the thinner crack to a stance at the bottom of a right-leading flake-line.

2. 35m (23) 'Layback' up the flake and then climb diagonally left across the bulging wall to a ledge on the arete. Step left around the arete and then go up the wall above to the second belay of Passport To Insanity.

3. 30m (20) Go diagonally left to a thin crack. Climb this and then move horizontally left to a blocky ledge. Finish strsight up the wall to the top.

Withering face climbing. A serious proposition.

Start 2 metres left of 'Raving Loonies'.

1. 40m (25) Up a short hollow flake. Step right and go up on good holds until a difficult move up and left gains a flake/crack line (cam in 'Raving Loonies' protects this). Climb the crack and go left along a horizontal break. Mantle up to another break, then go left and up to a poor spike. Go straight up to easier ground and a good thread. Traverse left for 8 metres to a good ledge on the left edge of the flake.

2. 20m (19) 'Layback' the curving flake to reach broken ledges. Go up 3 metres to thread belay with insitu worthless tat.

3. 20m (19) Move left on the ledge and then awkwardly over the first bulge to easier-angled ground. Wander up to a stancebelow a leftwards-curving line which forms the righthand boundary of an overhung recess in the face.

4. 30m (26) Climb the line and go up to a good horizontal break. Move left and up steeply on chicken heads to a good flake and runners. Fingery, bold climbing leads to the top.

The siuous corner just left of the chasm separating thePassport pinnacle from the main massif.

1. 10m (16) Awkward short corner to large ledge.

2. 30m (18) Follow the corner.

3. 30m (14) Continue up the line until it doglegs right and peters out. Traverse left at this point until able to move up (runout) to the next line that leads to overhangs. Belay where possible.

4. 40m (17) Continue up the line and through the overhangs.

A dramatic route with some poorly protected difficult climbing.

Start 10-15 metres left of 'Quincas Borba'.

1. 30m (20) Up the unprotected wall to a corner which leads to a roof. Move out right around the roof and up the line above to a good ledge on the left.

2. 30m (-) Step right and traverse right across the wall for 10 metres. Go up a faint groove to a ledge and large blcok. Stand on the block and climb the steep wall, tending left as it eases.

3. 40m (-) Straight up the series of walls.

4. 30m (-) Up the groove and over the overhangs as for Quincas Borba's final pitch.

A fine route in an exposed, atmospheric setting on the left edge of the Passport recess.

Start at the square-cut chimney left of 'Mutiny', where a huge block has come away from the wall, 10 metres right of Saxon.

1. 45m (13) Bridge up the chimney and arete. Near the top, move onto the left wall and follow a diagonal line up left to a prominent vertical line. Go up to a small stance.

2. 10m (-) Up to next ledge.

3. 45m (13) When the line runs out, climb the bulge and continue straight up the wall to a prominent notch on the skyline.

This huge diagonal line on the north face of the summit blcok can be seen from the highway when the light is right. It's not much good though.

Rock quality and protection are problematic at times.

1. 37m (12) Follow the diagonal line.

2. 20m (12) Move up to a steep, juggy wall and traverse left until the jugs become sound enough to allow a safe ascent. Continue up to the cave.

3. 20m (12) Move out of the cave and onto the right wall. Up the wall, tending right and belay on a narrow ledge. Rope drag and poor protection are issues.

4. 10m (-) Eaisly to the top.

This is just left of the Oasis camping cave on a squat, square-cut pillar of compact rock. This is as good a place as any to put it for now. Walk up below the right side of the pinnacle, through some chockstones to a corner on the arete. Corner, left around roof and crack to ledge. Left past dodgy thread runner to next crack. Up this, poor protection, to top.

Another fine route by this crack climbing team. The cliff splitting line up the left side of the Crimson Tower. At the top of the chimney (40m) belay on the ledge. Second pitch launches out right across mega exposure to reach summit.

Two pitches of outragous steep and interesting climbing, with a very thin and reachy crux pitch. One of the last major walls in the 'Grampians' to be climbed? Originally equipped by Jono Schmidt and Neil mid 2007, it took five months before Neil could convince anyone else to go in to try it! This route could be led in one giant pitch, but you would need more than 25 quickdraws and a double sized rack. The climb stays mostly dry even in torrential rain - as tested on the first ascent!

Start: Starts on the far left of the Crimson Tower, on sloping rock platforms. Bring a large cam to belay from.

1. 30m (25) Step right (FH) and across crimpy slab and into shallow corner. Up this on small wires/cams to rooflet and juggy grey wall. Up reachy flake to big heuco, then crux crimpy face above to belay in large horizontal slot. For the hanging belay anchors use RB above, and medium cams to the left. Six bolts in total on this pitch.

2. 30m (24) Stunning location. Out roof and up exposed headwall past 4 ringbolts to base of left facing corner. Up this on trad then step right, to final difficult grey wall. Rap off with DOUBLE 60m ropes. 50m ropes will NOT reach the ground.

Steep on brilliant rock with outrageous holds.

Start: Start 15 metres right of "Mordoc" is a lovely bulging orange wall.

Up corner and crack line through overhang to top.

Start: Corner in centre of face on first buttress.

Up cracks 1 metre left of righthand arete to a ledge. Directly through the overhang in the arete and directly up the face to the top.

Start: Start 2 metres right of 'If We Were Giants'.

Thin crack 5 metres right of If We Are Giants, on the right side of the arete, then the corner system above. Follow the weakness up the centre of the wall.

Up the face on the right of the corner to a roof, through this and left into the main corner. Follow the crack line diagonally up right to an abseil tree.

Start: Start on the right side of the buttress, 10 metres right of If We Are Giants, at a corner with a triangular roof at half height.

Up and over ledge then straight up the wall above.

Start: Scramble for the right to a scrubby ledge at the base of the cliff below a bulging section near the centre of the wall.

Follow the cracks to the left end of the roof. Move up and right through the roof to finish up the line on the left side of the upper face.

Start: Start on the left of the buttress and 4 metres left of the central overhangs.

Up the bulging column of rock and through the steepening, tending right then back slightly left. Finish on the right side of the upper wall.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'More Exciting Than Sex' on the right side of the overhangs.

Terrible name. Starts 7 metres right of More Exciting Than Sex. Straight up through the narrowest section of the overhang to follow the dished area of rock up and right for 2 metres, then straight up.

Up past solution pockets to small roof. Up the steepest section of roof to follow the vague arete above.

Start: Start as for JATTUGC

From scrubby ledge, up right-facing corner on the right side of the buttress. Traverse 3 metres left and climb the groove in the upper face to the top.

Up boulder on the right to traverse left across the face to bulge in the centre. Up the right side of bulge to thread runner and on to top.

Start: Start on the right-hand side of the grey face.

Go straight up arete from the start of 'Grey Gold'.

Up main crack/weakness in the middle of north-facing face.

Start: Start 20 metres left of Grey gold slab.

Up the right-hand groove then straight up.

Start: Start at the centre of the grey slab behind 'Grey Gold', 20 metres left of 'Scope Route'.

Grade is unknown

The next west-facing wall behind the Grey Matter slab has a stepped orange flake system.

Up the stepped orange corner-line until 3 metres below the roof. Left across the traverse line and up.

Up corner formed by block leaning against the face. Up seam into corner and top.

Start: Start 10m left of arete and 20 metres left of 'Grey Matter'.

Start 5 metres right of the corner and go straight up the wall.

Not to be confused with the climb of the same name at Stapylton.

Start at the next west-facing wall up and right of Knights In White Satin from a block leaning against the face.

Up to prominent right-leading diagonal break. Follow this to some cracks through the overhang and take the right-hand crack to the top.

Retrospective reference to a Grampians cliff much to the north. 10 metres left of southern boulder is a narrow slab with ferns either side. Up slab to ledge, diagonally left to ledge. Up wall with a step right below top.

Crack line at right end of ledge, in front of ‘nth’ boulder. Up crack and short left facing corner. Diagonally right up slabby steps. Headwall via left facing corner.

Ten metres right of The Unearned Boon just right of roof. Probably undergraded in keeping with Treby traditions.

1. 20m, (15) Up wall to overhang via thin right leaning crack. Left wall via bush to ledge.

   2) 10m, Headwall.

Start 11 metres before the chasm, behind 3 trees. The centre of the face.

Start as for 'Diamonds In The Forest' but finish up thin cracks and seams 2 metres left of that route.

Starts up the cracks on the right side of 'Diamonds In The Forest' wall to a ledge, step back left and up steep wall above, next to the arete.

Start 1 metres right of the left end of the wall which is inside the chasm on the Diamond Block. Staright up.

The arete to a ledge on top of a triangular roof, then diagonally right through the next two roof, finishing up the wall above thr right side of the last roof.

Start: Start at the arete 2 metres right of the big corner.

The prominent corner 2 metres left of WGTGOOTW. Corner then overhang to ledge then large, juggy corner.

Up and onto a small prow, the V-groove and wall above to ledge. Straight up excelent rock.

Start: Start at the right side of a bulge at the start of this section of wall.

Start 3 metres right of Dressed To Kill. Up steeply to a reasonable horizontal break and rest. Move up and slightly right into groove/scoop then traverse back left to jugs and up.

Below a vague line higher up, 3 metres right of the left end of this section of cliff, before the scrub comes in again. Go straight up.

Up the face until forced into corner. Step up then back right and up.

Start: Start 4 metres left of Dreseed Up to Kill at the hole in the wall on the right side of the recess.

Up the right side of the shield to horizontals near the top. Traveres left to the arete and up.

Start: Start 18 metres right of the left end of the cliff. There is a shield formation forming a flake-line on each of its sides.

Up the left side of the shield then straight up to the top.

Start: Start at the shield as for 'Axis Sally'.