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Routes as trad in Victoria Range Track

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Showing all 30 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Rhino's Horn
14 Zebra Crossing

Start in the gully at the right-hand end of the main wall. Up the gully to the block on the right. Hand traverse left above the lower overhang to the bottom of a flake. Layback the flake and the crack above, step left and up the short chimney.

FA: John Sanders, Peter Watling & Gordon Talbett, 1991

Trad 27m
17 Rataxas

As much excitement as being chased by a herd of rampaging rhinos. Start near the left end of the cliff. Up the black groove until it is possible to traverse awkwardly right to an exposed pedestal in the middle of the overhanging wall. Follow the shallow groove up and right until jugs lead steeply to the top.

FA: John Sanders, Peter Watling & Gordon Talbett, 1991

Trad 23m
10 Rataxas, Direct Variant

Start as for Rataxas and go straight up.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1992

Trad 15m
World's End Centurion Area
12 Winterreise

Start directly below the concavity. Straight up the wall taking the vague rib just right of the central concavity

FA: David Gairns & Gordon Talbett, 1991

Trad 50m
14 Winter's Tale

Start as for Winterreise.

  1. 25m Climb the wall diagonally left to a ledge. Pull left over a bulge and follow a crack up left to a section of smooth compact orange rock. Move up into the smooth groove for a few metres then move left to gain a crack which continues steeply up left. Exit right onto a ramp.

  2. 40m Traverse right along the ramp to its ending at a big alcove. Climb down and across the alcove to the bottom of its far side. Very steep moves on dubious rock lead to the top.

FA: Peter Watling & Andy Long, 1991

Trad 65m, 2
12 Indecent Exposure

An outstanding route. Start at the right side of the wall, just before the undercut section.

  1. 30m 12 Traverse right on the lip of the undercut to the arete, Straight up the arete to a ledge on the right.

  2. 25m Move left off the ledge and climb the starting corner and the continuation crack to the top.

FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett & Peter Watling, 1991

Trad 55m, 2
17 Fiddling On The Roof

About 15 metres right of the Indecent Exposure arete is a huge double-roof system that looks like Centurion on Scotland's Ben Nevis (Now we all know what that looks like, don't we?) Start at a small roof system 8m right of the double roof system. Follow the left-leaning flake through the break and up the overhanging wall. Step right and pull up strenuously on good holds and up.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1993

Trad 17m
14 Little Round Jug

Classy. About 25m right of Indecent Exposure is a large expanse of slab bounded on the left by a leaning corner. Start just right of the base of the leaning corner. Climb the slab to the big flake and continue up to the main, leaning corner. Move right to a small flake on the slab, then straight up to the corner and follow it up and right to it's end. Traverse 2 metres right across a water streak and then go directly up.

FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett & Peter Watling, 1991

Trad 43m
6 Not With A Bangla But A Whymper

Start at a pronounced rib about 20 metres right of Little Round Jug. Climb the rib and continue directly up the slab.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Alan Hope & Peter Watling, 1991

Trad 47m
World's End
8 Menlove Edwards Meets Conan Doyle

Left of the cave/boulder where the pad meets the cliff is a big wall bounded on its right by a gaping chasm. Start at the gaping chasm. Primeval bridging and chimneying with sparse protection. Avoid the pterodactyl nesting season.

  1. 25m Scramble up into the chasm and chimney up outside the tree ferns. Move up and into a wide groove in the left wall. where a bridging stance can be taken.

  2. 27m Continue up the chasm to belay below the enormous chockstone. 3 30m Exit up the cave on the left to a gully. Climb a crack on the left wall and finish up easy jugs.

FA: Peter Watling, Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1991

Trad 77m
17 Lost Tribes

Start just left of Menlove Edwards Meets Conan Doyle. Follow the crack-line, step left at the top to pull through overhang. Belay here or step to the right. Scramble up and off or abseil.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1992

Trad 18m
11 Iago

In the middle of the wall left of Lost Tribes is a leaning formation that faces left. The base of the corner is about 7 metres up.

  1. 37m 11 A thin crack leads diagonally right into the corner. Climb the lower third of the corner until a rising traverse can be made across the right wall to the arete which is followed to a good stance.

  2. 28m Move right off the ledge and climb the overhang via jagged crack. Jugs to the top.

FA: Peter Watling, Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1991

Trad 65m
17 Gibraltar

There is a huge block 60 metres downhill from Iago. On the NE side of the block is a steep slab. Step off the ground just left of centre of the face. Traverse right to the centre of the face and up. Allegedly adequate protection.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Mark Poustie & Andrew Lynch, 1993

Trad 17m
16 Mur Y Niwl

The Wall of Mists. A superb traverse. Start at the base of the big corner left of Iago.

  1. 26m 16 Traverse left to the arete keeping to the top of the slab where it abuts the overhanging left wall of the corner.

  2. 30m The juggy arete above leaves you on top of the big pinnacle. It is advisable to stay roped for the step across the gap to the main cliff top.

FA: Andy Long, Gordon Talbett & Peter Watling, 1991

Trad 56m
15 Escape From The Orcs

At the left end of the Mur Y Niwl slab is a short wall; start in the middle of this.The second and third pitches may be the same as Mur Y Niwl.

  1. 25m Bouldery up wall to break at the start of the slab. Pull onto slab and step left to arete. Up to large platform.

  2. 35m Step right and work your way through overhangs until rope drag stops progress.

  3. 15m Up steep wall on fragile holds then jump chasm.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Rob Pease, 1992

Trad 75m
20 Twenty Two Years Ago

Sustained bucket-pulling, excellent rock and pro. Start from block under arete left of Escape From The Orcs. Up to first horizontal, traverse left a few metres to buckets and pull up to next horizontal. Step left and continue to left end of small ledge below smooth headwall. Finish directly and steeply above where smooth and featured rock meet. Rap off or finish up other routes.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2006

Trad 30m
19 Gunning For The Master

Steep on brilliant rock with outrageous holds. Start 15 metres right of Mordoc is a lovely bulging orange wall. Need to check this. Climb obvious left-leading diagonal until about the 40 metre mark, then head up diagonally right.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Wayne Maher, 1993

Trad 50m
16 Mordoc

Left of Escape From The Orcs is an overhanging wall with a sandy patch beneath it. At the left end of this wall is a thin crack heading up and left.Follow the crack-line all the way to obvious thin ledge.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1992

Trad 25m
21 M0 Guns And Greenbacks

Left of Mordoc is a wall that is approximately 50 metres wide and 70 metres high, split by a strong diagonal line running up left through a roof at 20 metres. Takes the major diagonal line all the way with 3 rests on the second pitch. The wall height and climb length don't really add up.

FA: Wayne Maher & Campbell Mercer, 1993

Trad 30m
15 Guns And Greenbacks Variant Start

An early attempt on the diagonal line ended with a large fall. Start 20 metres to the left of the diagonal line. Up to left edge of roof. Continue straight up to join the diagonal line.

FA: Peter Treby, Neil Barr & Campbell Mercer, 1992

Trad 35m
World's End No Mercer Area
13 The Third Man

Start at the right edge of the wall.

  1. 30m 13 Climb the bulging wall and traverse right to the tree(?). Continue up the groove to pass left of a roof. When confronted by appalling jugs, move right and up to belay.

  2. 40m Up through further surreal jugs to the top.

FA: Peter Watling, Gordon Talbett & John Sanders, 1991

Trad 75m
13 Campbell Mercerless

Start as for The Third Man.

  1. 45m Up to the tree then step right and go up to the right end of the roof and then go directly up. 2, 30m Jugs to the top.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Mark Poustie & Alan Hope, 1992

Trad 75m
11 A Faint Aroma Of Performing Seals

Start left of the low roof with the double-trunked tree (which may no longer be there).

  1. 42m 11 Step of from the large boulder and climb the chossy wall, passing 6m left of the double tree (if it's still there). Up to the prominent V-chimney, climb the bulge on the left and up the wall above to a belay.

  2. 30m Jugs to the top.

FA: Gordon Talbett, Alan Hope & Mark Poustie, 1992

Trad 72m
15 He's From Nelson

50 metres left of The Third Man is a gnarly buttress with a large roof on its left side and on its front are two horizontal cracks running out to a knob on the right arete. Start on the left side of the buttress, 2 metres right of a blocky ramp. Sandbagging with a smile.

Up to seam, on up to the left end of the two traverse cracks. Traverse right to the knob then step back left and climb the very steep left-leaning crack.

FA: Mark Poustie, Gordon Talbett & Alan Hope, 1992

Trad 25m
15 Show No Mercer

20 metres left of He's From Nelson is a grey buttress with a shallow, left-leaning overlap line on its left edge.

Start at the base of the overlap. Go straight up and finish up the overhanging crack 1 metre left of the deep groove at the top.

FA: Alan Hope, Gordon Talbett & Mark Poustie, 1992

Trad 30m
World's End Zoo Wall
15 Freeing The Animals

There is a steep, thin crack near the middle of the wall, to the right of the orange section. Up the crack for 6m, step right and up to the overlap. Pull up, step left and through the next overlap.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Mark Poustie & Neil Barr, 1993

Trad 25m
10 Crocodile Fodder

Obvious line of holds 10 metres left of Freeing The Animals

FA: Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer & Neil Barr, 1993

Trad 30m
World's End Overwork Wall
13 Overwork Blues

Start at the short, shallow corner. Up the corner, step left and up the corner above. Step right at roof and up.

FA: Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer & Neil Barr, 1993

Trad 27m
16 Power And Politics

The left-leading diagonal crack in the arete/face 2 metres right of Overwork Blues. Up the crack then step right to the steep wall and flake. Up on god holds moving left to the arete.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Mark Poustie & Neil Barr, 1993

Trad 22m
14 Pressure Drop

Bouldery start! The left-leading diagonal right of Overwork Blues. The diagonal then the slab just right of the gutter. Step left at the roof and up.

FA: Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer & Neil Barr, 1993

Trad 27m

Showing all 30 routes.

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