Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Dark Side | |||||
5.11d | ★★ Hospitality
Starts 5m left of 'Take That Cael' Go up the face with pockets to the roof. Set: T. Bremicker, 2012 | 6 | |||
5.8 | ★ Jedi Guide Tricks
Use the rope around the tree to get to the first bolt. Set: A. Goodine, 2018 | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Grabba the Crux
Set: C. Volkart, 2013 | ||||
5.11d | Encased in Carbonite
Set: K. Noruschat, 2016 | 6 | |||
5.11c | The Dark Lord
Set: T. Taylor, 2018 | ||||
5.10a | ★ Ewok Skywalk
Set: T. Taylor, 2018 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ The Empire Strikes Jen
Set: M. Adolph, J. Adolph & B. Boychuck, 2010 | ||||
5.11d | E-Vader
Set: T. Taylor, 2019 | ||||
5.11d | ★★ Kyber Crystal
| ||||
5.11a | ★★ Fear is the Dark Side
Set: M. Adolph & J. Adolph, 2016 | ||||
5.12b | ★★ The Dark Side is Sændy
Extension of 'Fear is the Dark Side' Set: K. Noruschat | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Using the Force
This is the first route you see at the top of the trailhead. Start up the dihedral to fun pockets above, holds get sparse as you get near the top. Set: M. Adolph, J. Adolph & T.D. Elson, 2006 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Wooky's Woot
Set: M. Adolph, J. Adolph & T.D. Elson, 2006 | 8 | |||
5.10b | ★★ A New Hope
Set: M. Adolph & J. Adolph, 2017 | 11 | |||
5.10b | ★ Rim Job
Set: J. Goodwin & C. Straus, 2004 | 5 | |||
5.11b | ★★ A Disturbance in the Force
Climb up the loose corner before pulling through roof. Finish on balancey moves through the face above on pockets. Set: M. Adolph & J. Adolph | ||||
5.10d | ★ Who's Been Sleeping in my Tauntaun?
Set: A. Goodine, 2016 | 7 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Chewbakaka
Fun layback down low to sustained climbing above to the finish. Set: T. Taylor & M. Adolph, 2016 | 8 | |||
5.11b/c | ★★★ Jedi Master
Set: K. Noruschat & T. Taylor, 2017 | 9 | |||
5.10a | ★★ The Jedi's Apprentice
Set: K. Noruschat, 2016 | 8 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Yoda's Yodel
Set: B. Young, 2006 | 7 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Wet Sith
This is the middle of 3 routes on this flat section of wall. Lots of super fun pockets! Beware a few might be wet inside. Climb through a couple small roofs to the finish. Set: T. Hasse & C.Straus, 2004 | 7 | |||
5.11c | ★★ General Grievous
| ||||
5.11a | ★★ Dirty Girls
Set: J. Mills, 2004 | 9 | |||
5.10d | ★ The Princes' Buns
Set: M. Adolph & I. Curran, 2016 | 7 | |||
5.10a | ★ You Can't Sith With Us
Up the right side of the featured corner, pull over the small roof to challenging face climbing above. Set: A. Goodine, 2016 | 7 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Bunnies and Muffins
Straight up to the left of the roof, head right to go above the roof to the anchor. Set: T. Hasse, 2005 | 9 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Is That a Lightsabre in Your Pocket?
Set: M. Adolph & J. Adolph, 2016 | 16m, 7 | |||
5.10b | ★ Nerf Herder
Set: T. Taylor et All, 2016 | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Help Me Obi Wan
Set: M. Adolph & T. Taylor, 2016 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ You're Looking in Alderan Places
This route lives up to its name, there are lots of hidden holds trust your instincs to get to the finish. Set: M. Smith, A. Cotterell & A. Goodine, 2016 | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Boba Fett Arete
Set: Josh Rowlands & Tim Taylor | ||||
5.10b/c | ★★ Dagobah
FA: A. Oriol, C. Ormewilliams & S. Smith, 2019 | ||||
5.10b | ★ Obi Wan Canopy
Starts left of the pine tree against the wall on a big right facing crack. Laybacks and face climbing lead to an reasonable path through the roof. Set: Nick Shain & Tim Taylor | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Do or Do Not
Set: M. Adolph, J. Adolph & T. Taylor, 2016 | 8 | |||
5.10d | Mike's Route
Set: Mike Adolph | ||||
5.11b | These Aren’t The Droids You're looking For
Set: Mike Adolph, 2019 | ||||
5.11c | ★★★ These Aren’t The Holds You’re Looking For
Set: Tobi Von Butler | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Turkish Delight
Set: B. Larson, 2006 | ||||
5.11b | ★ Moss Eisley
Set: Adam Vaughan & Tim Taylor | ||||
Water Knot Wall | |||||
5.10c | ★ Veggie Balls + Rice
| 15m | |||
5.10a | ★★ Unnamed
Mystery route that shares the same anchor as Veggie Balls + Rice. Not currently in the guidebook. | 15m | |||
5.9 | 5.11 Dreams
| 12m | |||
5.8 | Beer Delivery Service
| 10m | |||
5.8 | ★ The Great 5.8 Mystery
| 10m | |||
5.6 | Better Get the Stick Clip
| 10m | |||
5.11b | ★★ Tension
| 27m | |||
5.11c | Pneumothorax
| 27m | |||
Shakakan Wall | |||||
5.4 | ★ Take It Easy
FA: I. Curran & C. Volkart, 2011 | 14m, 6 | |||
5.7 | Have a Sunshiny Day
FA: I. Curran, C. Volkart & R. Scrutton, 2011 | 17m, 6 | |||
5.6 | ★ Cool Bananas
| 22m, 6 | |||
5.6 | ★ Don't Forget to Blink and Breathe
FA: I. Currant & C. Volkart, 2011 | 16m, 6 | |||
5.7 | ★ Travelling Young
FA: C. Paquette, 2011 | 27m, 11 | |||
5.8 | ★ Fun Like a Root Canal
FA: C. Volkart, 2011 | 17m, 6 | |||
5.7 | No Dramas
FA: C. Volkart & I. Curran, 2011 | 18m, 7 | |||
5.9 | ★ When in Doubt Pull Out
FA: I. Curran, 2011 | 16m, 5 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Groove Tube
FA: I. Curran & C. Volkart, 2011 | 26m, 10 | |||
5.5 | ★ Leave it to Beaver
FA: I. Curran, C. Vokart & C. Volkart, 2011 | 27m, 10 | |||
Abraham Slabs | |||||
5.9 | ★★ The Groove
First 2 pitches can be easily linked together with minimal rope drag. Pitch 5 is long, a 70m rope rappel with stretching may get you to the P4 anchors with no rope to spare depending on the stretch of the rope and climber weight, tie knots! There is a set of intermediate rappel rings near the beginning of pitch 5 if you don't quite reach the P4 anchors. Rappel from the intermediate rings and also P4 anchors, as the intermediate anchors wont reach P3 anchors. FA: J. Booth & A. Berge | 150m, 5, 14 | |||
5.10b | ★ The Emperor's New Groove
FA: Andrew Abel & Tobi Von Butler, 2021 | 120m, 5 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Kuzco's Poison
FA: Andrew Abel & Nathaniel Johnson, 2021 | 120m, 5 | |||
Little Russia | |||||
5.13c | ★★★ Big Luc
On the Up the Hill wall, up the second chain and the climb that goes furthest left. Bolted by Konstantin FA: Martin Schon, 2021 | 27m, 12 | |||
5.13b | ★★★ From Calgary with Love
Follow up the chain to start Big Lue and FCWL. Be careful the rock under the chain is super brittle. Start climbing through some good moves and get ready for the crux straight up. up over to the face for some great moves, some nice rest and get ready for the anchor. FA: Martin Schon, 2021 | 18m, 10 | |||
5.12a/b | Rusalka
FA: Rhys Beaudry, 5 Jul 2020 | 19m, 9 | |||
5.11b | Ronnie Takes a Walk in Heaven
Start as for 'Rusalka' but head right after the bulge. FA: Rhys Beaudry, 25 Jul 2020 | 25m, 12 | |||
5.12b | Violent and Young
FA: Rhys Beaudry, 26 Jul 2020 | 22m, 12 | |||
5.11d | Little Luc
FA: Rhys Beaudry, 3 Jul 2020 | 22m, 13 | |||
5.10b | Paxito
FA: Konstantin Stoletov, Jul 2020 | 6m, 4 | |||
5.12d | Start of the line
Beautiful power endurance route that follows the obvious line in the middle of the wall. Take some alpine draws to reduce drag. FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018 | 30m, 10 | |||
5.13a | Start of the line extension
Amazing crimpy-pumpy extension on perfect blue limestone all the way to the top. 70m rope. FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018 | 40m, 16 | |||
5.13b | ★★★ Pull Harder
An obvious line that is going right in the middle of the overhanging face. Same start as "Start of the line" but go straight up and pull as hard as you can! Combination of overhanging slopers, knee bars and more. after the knee bar rest (other rests possible), go left pass some tricky slopers and up to the vertical section to reach the anchor. Named after Californian group of friends who called themselves "Pull harder". Prep: K. Stoletov 2018 FA: L. Stefurak, 2019 | 25m, 9 | |||
5.13a | ★★ Pull Hard
An obvious line that is going right in the middle of the overhanging face. Same start as "Start of the line" but go straight up and pull as hard as you can! Combination of overhanging slopers, knee bars and more. after the knee bar rest (other rests possible), go right through some hard moves to reach the vertical section, climb for another 2 clips to reach the Pull Hard anchor. Named after Calfornian group of friends who called themselves "Pull harder". | 26m, 11 | |||
5.12b/c | ★★★ Mayoraz
| ||||
5.12b | ★★★ Chidambaram
Amazing big moves on good holds leads to a crimpy finish, easier than it looks. Named after Nitin Chidambaram. FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018 | 20m, 6 | |||
5.12c | Le Dièdre de Mckinny
A hard boulder problem leads to a weird but good rest on a slab. Continue with technical climbing in the obvious corner above the arete. Named after Scott Mckinny. FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.12d | Mckinny directe
Same start than «Le dièdre de McKinny» but stay in the overhang on the right until a good rest. One more boulder problem guards the anchors. Named after Scott Mckinny. FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Petit Breton
Climb the slab to a bouldery start followed by a pumpy section to the top. Named after Hugo Breton. FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018 | 20m, 7 | |||
5.11d | ★★ Zerb Zerb
Traverse up and right take a rest and get into sustained overhanging climbing all the way to juggy finish. Enjoy the crux whipper if you don’t pull trough it! Named after Jessica Zerb | 27m, 8 | |||
5.12a | French Roast
On the North face of Little Russia proper, look for the line of 3 tightly spaced bolts that intersect the left leaning corner/arete of "Janus". Named after French Dan Urbain and Sabrina Poplawski. Bolted, cleaned and wire brushed by K. Stoletov. Depending on the height of the creek, either start by passing a bolt and pulling up onto a pseudo-ledge, or set up a semi-hanging belay at the first bolt. The next bolt marks the start of the climb- it looks high from the ground, but trust it's placement! Climb 3 bolts of brilliant, technical resistance styled climbing, then head up and cross (right) the left-slanting arete of "Janus", clipping the perma-draw before gaining a rest. Unobvious but easy climbing for a few bolts leads to a final, powerful boulder problem. Finish out on the non-trivial slab. Set: K. Stoletov FA: Rhys Beaudry, 24 May 2020 | 27m, 9 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Janus
Start on two log bolted station and do a traverse left. Get onto overhanging arete and pump up your way up. Clip the station from victory slopers if you still have anything left in you! Stick clip first or second bolt to avoid unnecessary dipping in the creek. Named after Jan Niedersberg | 30m, 9 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Merricka
Sustained route on good crimps. A must-do. If you are not comfortable in that grade you might want to stick clip the first bolt. Named after Merrick Montemurro. FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.12b | Ding Ding Dong
On the North face of Little Russia (where the creek runs right next to the wall), look for the bolted belay station/belay platform. Identify DDD by its tightly spaced bolts on the smooth, grey, vertical limestone down low, leading to a ledge with black and yellow streaked rock above. FA: Rhys Beaudry, 30 May 2020 | 27m, 11 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Sketchy Foks
Non-stop, technical sequence of crimps, heelhooks and two finger pockets. Crux are pulling onto the crux bulge mid way with finish on easy holds to the top. Named after Nathan Fok. FA: A. Mayoraz, 2018 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.10d | ★ TRyangle
Harder than it looks. Start on easy slabby moves and get into overhanging arete puzzle. Solve it and finish on easy jugs! Named after Ryan Musteca. FA: A. Mayoraz, 2018 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.8 | ★ Kenzi Bear Express
Start on the slab just right of the Tryangle. Climb on low angle till you get into the corner (crux). Pull it and continue on more easy ground to the top. Named after Trevor Jones daughter, Kenzi | 27m, 9 | |||
5.7 | ★★ Slayer Slab
FA: Kendra Young, 29 Jul 2020 | 28m, 10 | |||
5.11b | BaBach
Boulder V8 but run out of gas after 10 moves? Little Russia got this one for you! Start right of the small overhanging bulge. Climb up and left on an easy ramp until you reach 2 five move V2 boulder problems in a row. Pull through them and step high on a small face traversing to the belay station. Make sure that your belayer is clipped to the belay bolt and not getting pulled off in the case you fall! Named after Brent Bach. FA: Konstantin Stoletov, 2020 | 9m, 6 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Hot Blais
Start under a small overhang just left of the "Davy Jones locker". Go on a face and pull trough laybacks, high steps and thin face moves till you reach an obvious overhang. Go for a big move and try not to peel off! Finish with a few more balance moves. Must do for 11a grade in the canyon! Third bolt has a chain permadraw on it for an easy clip. Named after Amy Blais. FA: Charlie Mackie | 27m, 9 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Blaising Hot Blais
Start Hot Blais, climb up to the 6th bolt and instead of clipping it start clipping the line of bolts that is traversing up and left above the ledge. Set: Konstantin Stoletov FA: Konstantin Stoletov, 25 Sep 2022 | 32m, 16 | |||
5.11c | ★★ Davy Jones Locker
Super diverse climbing. Start as Diesel but climb up and left. Pull on a powerful layback, get through the technical overhang and if you have anything left in you unlock the final thin face/slab sequnce! If you can unlock this route you can unlock the DJ locker:) Stick clip the first bolt if needed. Named after Megan Jones FA: K. Stoletov & Laura Castro, 2019 | 26m, 7 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Diesel
Pumpy. Start left of small cave. Climb on easy face, trending left. Clip the 2nd bolt and engage into never ending pumpfest. Named after Tim "Diesel"Jewison. FA: K. Stoletov, 2018 | 20m, 7 | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Prince Albert
Technical. Start right of small cave. Climb on slabby face, trending left. Clip the 3nd bolt and climb past powerfull underclings and deadpoints past the tricky overhang. Pull trough the final mantel if you still have something left in you! Named after Matt Albert. FA: K. Stoletov, 2018 | 18m, 7 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Son of a Mitch
Walk along the left side of the canyon almost till the waterfalls. Start atop of the little hill. FA: Konstantin Stoletov | 12m, 5 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Alberta Tango
Start 5m right of " Son of a Mitch". Fixed draw on 3rd bolt. Put a short draw on the perma draw bolt. FA: Konstantin Stoletov | 12m, 7 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Babay
At the back of the canyon on the left side right before the via ferrata. | 15m, 6 | |||
5.12c | Zardoz
1
5.12a
20m
2
5.12c
30m
3
5.2
7m
4
5.12b
20m
5
5.11b/c
11m
6
5.10b/c
23m
FA: Rhys Beaudry & Konstantin Stoletov, Jul 2020 | 110m, 6 | |||
5.10d | ★ Jenna's bag of tricks
Start on a face, get in the corner, pull overhang…finish on the slab! This one has everything! Named after Jenna Hanson. FA: K. Stoletov, 2018 | 20m, 8 | |||
5.11a | ★ The Vern
Climb an easy face to a bulge. Pull trough it and get to menacing overhang. Match on some good crimps and trow to an invisible jug. Hard to onsight…It is that invisible! Exellent climb on good rock. Named after Vern Schwab. FA: K. Stoletov, 2018 | 22m, 8 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Green Mojito
Start on a small face, pull little overhang and finish on a small slab trending up and right. A true warm up! Named after Lee Green. FA: L. Castro, 2018 | 22m, 8 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Red Sonya
Start on a crimpy face (crux), passing three bolts than get on an easier ground till you hit intimidating roof. Pull it trough on great jugs and finish more easy face climbing. Named after Sonya and Dan Wallbank. FA: N. Fok, 2018 | 22m, 9 |