30 m. Start up the roots in the left-hand chimney and past the tree. At about 21 m the chimneying becomes severe for some moves. A good pitch ending either at 34 m at a chockstone and stance, or at 40 m in the Bird of Doom Cave (high peg in place).
18 m. (or 12 m from the cave). The Root Pitch (first crux). A long thin root, occasionally attached to the rock, leads up from the cave to a tree. Traverse out of the cave and either enter the outward—sloping chimney with difficulty using the root a little for the left foot and continuing with some effort (at least V.S.) or climb the root of the tree (V.S. in character, unnerving). Belay to the tree.
15 m. The corner and nose give pleasant climbing to a platform.
24 m. Past large blocks to a corner. An overhang at 12 m gives a technical move. Belay in trees.
9 m. Climb a tree and break through vicious palm fronds to a major recess.
37 m. The Traverse of the Crows, From right inside the cave traverse outwards chimneying until the walls widen, Belly crawl under a low roof and then continue easily in excellent position to a grassy haven and a huge belay. An enjoyable pitch.
9 m. Climb the rock and vegetation. Awkward. A peg was used for direct aid on the first ascent. Anchor to low horizontal trunk.
24 m. (Second crux, V.S.). Start in the crack and traverse onto the slab. Where this steepens at about 11 m move delicately right to enter the twin cracks which give an energetic and fitting finish into thickening bush.
Approach: From the north side, walk up the path to the school on the ridge west of Goi. Then turn back along the ridge path towards Goi, with a deviation to the left to avoid a precipice. Reach a gap between the ridge and Goi Rock.
61 m. Traverse round vegetation leftwards to the bottom of a steep chimney in a corner.
27 m. Climb the chimney (some dirt) to a cave, then
through this to easy climbing to the top.
The Great Chimney on the north side of Goi is entered from the right across a grass ledge and minute flakes - V.S.
Reach the scoop (bolt)* for belay. One more pitch, H.V.S. with one bolt*, reaches the chimney proper. Follow this for 244 m to the top (S. to V.S.).
Descend from bolt on the western end of the rock.
The first party removed the screws and hangers from these two bolts. They are available for future ascents on application to Ian Howell (note from 2023 editor: Ian Howell is no longer with us but the MCK would be happy to provide new bolts for future ascentionists).
