Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Vincentia Blenheim Beach | |||||
VB | Ozymandias by Shelly
Little boulder facing Greenfields beach. Up and onto the king seat. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan, 1 Nov 2023 | 2m | |||
VB | Ozymandias by Smith
Other side of boulder facing Greenfields Beach. Up and onto king seat. 2 poems, same king, 2 routes same boulder. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan, 1 Nov 2023 | 2m | |||
V1 | Beowulf
Sit start feet on crumbly white, hands on 2 awesome opposing side pulls. Out to right and top out. No stemming, no good left holds. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan, 1 Nov 2023 | ||||
V0 | The Odyssey
Sit start in the hole, left hand up in little finger pocket. Top out. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan, 1 Nov 2023 | ||||
V0 | The Iliad
Sit start feet under cave roof, right hand on jug, left hand under cling. Straight up and top out FA: Cadeyn Mclellan, 1 Nov 2023 | 2m | |||
V0 | The Bridge of Sighs
Left end of roof, start both hands undercling and feet on sandy lips. Up to left using letterbox hold, heel hook and mantle to top out. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | ||||
V0 | Kubla Khan
Both hands start undercling, feet on sandy lips. Out to right and top out. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | ||||
V0 | Rime of the Ancient Mariner
Hands start on flat holds, feet on sandy steps. Move up through yellow rock to mantle top out. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | ||||
Vincentia Greenfields Beach Alien Wall | |||||
V1 | ★★ The Wet Spot
Begin at the far right of the shelf. Traverse left and use a wide grip to avoid the first corner (if you don't like the rock). Keep moving to the left feet on the lower shelf campus or throw a heel up. do this all the way to the nose and easy top out. Take the no hand rest if you like before topping for a great upside-down view of point perp. Just how wet your spotter will get depends on the tide FA: Vinny the Sea Eagle, 10 Jul 2018 | 2m | |||
V1 | Predator
Start on the lower shelf. heel hook or cramped campus. Up and out. Hit the super fun/easy Dyno for extra style points. FA: arnold s | 3m | |||
V1 | Rock face
Closed project. needs a little cleaning. FA: daryl jones | 2m | |||
V1 | Over the rainbow
Get down low then start on the left hand sloper and right hand on the horizontal triangle. Campus or throw your feet out to the darker rock. None of the lower blocks are in. Straight up and over the rainbow rock. Two mats or a good spotter would be nice the fall isn't great. FA: Bishop, 13 Oct 2018 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Shiro
Start on the lower lower shelf. move up right following the obvious line. FA: daryl jones | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Facehugger
Get down in the hole, sit starting on the 2nd lowest shelf (go from the lower if you want!) and move up into the small prow. Move to the left and top out between both prows. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Alien
Just right of Facehugger. Straight up from low shelf. | 2m | |||
V2 | Dweller
Sit start with horizontal double hand jam. Up to knob then out left to side pulls before reaching straight for the top out. FA: David Shelton, 29 Jun 2021 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ Xenomorph
The Alien head shaped prow. Sit start on the low sloping shelf and move up and under the Alien head via a shouldery move. Desperate top out over the prow. FA: Liam Healy | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Nostradamus
Start as Nostromo and go left to drop into undercling and topout. Mind the loose block above the start hold. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Nostromo
Low start on the juggy hole. Move up and right under the roof, make a blind move out left to the sloper around the lip on the face. Top out straight up. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Arnie
Starting jug of Nostromo, right across the prow and top out Unnamed. FA: Nick Choy, 19 Jan 2021 | ||||
V5 | ★ Ripley
Stand start on crimps in the corner. Move out on jugs to the prow, high feet into the undercut and top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Unnamed
Stand start in corner on crimps. Move right and out following the crack and top. FA: Jake Noblett | 4m | |||
Vincentia Greenfields Beach Slowly Sinking Shelf | |||||
V1 | ★ Port In A Storm
Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move up and right through the roof to the "headwall", move left to top out at the arete. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Row Row Row Your Boat
Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move out through roof and follow crack up. Tricky top out. Probably V2 but I found the top out horrible... FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Thar She Blows
Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move out of roof then pop to top of arete. Top out straight up. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V0 | Keelhaul
Crouch start on the ledge under the roof. Move right to arete and then up. No bridging . FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Homage to Catalonia
Sit start on obvious underclings. Big move to lip before strenuous mantle and top-out. Obviously, the chockstone to your left is out. FA: Brett H, 5 Dec 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Weedy Sea Dragon
Sit start with feet on under ledge and using pocket on the face. Continue straight up to top out using the sloper. Short and punchy V1/V2 FA: Nick Eastment, 2018 | 2m | |||
Vincentia Greenfields Beach The Breech | |||||
V2 | ★ Quench and Temper
Slung start off the thin flared ear with a heel hook up. Move out left to thin scoop and right to undercling scoop and punch up to lip. Out right to giant handlebar to assist topout. Thin looking holds but they haven't broken yet! FA: Murray, 26 Jun 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 | Sir Lancelot
Crouch start. hands on holds low on face, feet on little ridge under roof. Big throw to giant handlebar and top out. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | ||||
V0 | Sir Gawain
Easy route, starting on the obvious side pulls, straight up to top out. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | 3m | |||
V0 | 5 Nations
Start with foot on higher ledge and holds at face level. Move over to left to top out. FA: Chalky, 31 Dec 2015 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ One Nation
Crouch start on low positive sloper, move up and right into 5 Nations and top out direct. FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V3 | Merlin
Start facing the ocean with hand on juggy orange bulge. Heel hook up to cramped undercling. No stemming on rock behind! Then big scary reach to letter box hold. Then big scary move top out. Almost broke my hand on this bad boy! FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★★ King Arthur
Epic, scary and dangerous. Only the true king shall claim the crown. Start with feet low, hands on the little protruding rock at the corner. Move across, half way to the ledge. Using the 2 slopers get up to the ridge. No using the ledge to the right, or the rocks behind you. Then traverse back around the corner to the amazing letter box hold around the corner and top out on that side of the wall. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | 6m | |||
V0 | ★★ Breeched Bro
Starts a couple of metres right of 5 Nations. Standing start left of the nose. Traverse right until you can step onto the ledge at the end. FA: David Shelton, 1 Jul 2021 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Barrel
Sit start at the flake with the protruding rock behind you. Move slightly right and up. FA: David Shelton, 1 Jul 2021 | 2m | |||
V0 | The Green Knight
Start behind the tree, traverse across. hands on top of ridge, feet low. Then when you get to the boulder on top of the rigde top up straight out only using the wall you are on. No bridging, nor stemming. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | 3m | |||
V0 | Lady in the Lake
Hands start on corner of rail. Move up and top out over the face. You can use handholds to the left but must top out straight up and over. No feet to the left. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | 3m | |||
V1 | Sword in the Stone
Hands start in little depressions in the rail just left of the yellow streak. Right foot start on little step down right in the cave, left foot dangles. Move up, and when hands over the top of face move slightly right to top out. No using any of the rock to the right. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan | 3m | |||
Vincentia Greenfields Beach Fine China | |||||
V1 | DB
Start on the lower under rail. Move up and out gym style moves. Careful of the vegetated top out. FA: Hugh Harrison, 2018 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Red lion
Sit start with a sandy butt. hands on the obvious sandy low rail. Move up and out over the lip through the best line of rock. Turn around at top, look at the dolphins. Go for a swim. Relax and know you have chosen the right life. FA: daryl jones | 3m | |||
V0+ | Blue lion
Begin on the slightly higher smaller rail. Move up and out to the left. Avoid the bad bad rock. FA: daryl jones | 3m | |||
VB | black lion
Easy line up the big stuff. Great fun for those getting into the game. FA: daryl jones | 2m | |||
Booderee National Park White Whale | |||||
V1 | ★ Pseudoscience
Rock looks poor. Yet after laps, 0 breakages. Committed moves on big holds. Bring spare skin this rock will grip to your bones. The first boulder you come to on the platform. Begging to be climbed. 3 stars for positioning and outlook. Moves are great fun. Just the quality question in the back of your mind keeping it fun FA: jarvis strand | 5m | |||
project Quantum theory
Sit start sharp holds. Will become a classic line on science boulder for sure. | 6m | ||||
VB | Catalyst
Easy way to the top. just right of arete. Again rock looks poor quality, After testing rock scientifically by climbing, 0 breakages have occurred. This result is not expected after further tests. FA: jess roden | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Seaspray
Traverse left to right. The top of the boulder is not allowed. Rubbish feet, ok hands. FA: Aswan Shankara | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Tashtego
Undercut dyno. Good hands (very wide and low though...), rubbish feet. FA: Brett H, 28 Jan 2017 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Man Overboard
Sit start left hand on big undercut and right on sidepull/crack. Move up and top out left side of small nose. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 2m | |||
V0 | Just Call Me Captain Ahab
Sit start with both hands in the crack. Move up and top out in small scoop. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 2m | |||
V11 | ★★★ Shepard's Warning
Stand-start with LH on sidepull and RH on undercling. Move up and exit left. FA: Sam Healy, Jan 2022 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Soft Option
Start as for Shepard's Warning for a couple of moves but pike via a span right to finish as for Shepard's Pie. | 6m | |||
V10 | ★ Shepard's Pie
Stand start on a flat left hand edge and a low right hand pocket. Smear feet and move up dynamically then up again and exit left. FA: Sam Healy, Jan 2022 | 6m | |||
★★ Women and Children First
Starting on the slopey rail, move up to the big jug hole. Tackle the roof and top out without shitting your pants. Bring pads and spotters... Possibly double digits. Various links abound. | 6m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Assume Crash Positions
Stand start and follow the rail up and left. Top out before the roof. Bring pads and spotters. FA: Jack Folkes, 28 May 2017 | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Poseidon's on a Mission
Sit start to the right and follow the prow out and around the roof. Bring plenty of pads and spotters. FA: zachary vertrees, 4 Oct 2020 | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Warm Down
Sit start on wide sidepulls at far right, topping out high on the left as for Shepard's Pie. | 8m | |||
V4 | ★★ Between Choss and Desire
Sit start on wide sidepulls. Head straight up and top out onto the big slab. Use caution with the flake over the lip. | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Davis
Sit start matching on the lowest rail and up through the slopey features and the slab. FA: James Smith | ||||
V1 | ★★ About To Take On Water
Sit start on good holds. Move up and left to a big top out on the high slab. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ To Take on Davis
Start as for About to Take on Water and traverse left, mantling onto the slab using the distinctive double pockets as for Davis. | ||||
V3 | ★★ All Hands On Deck
Sit start from flat jug. Up through big holds to high top out. | 5m | |||
Here Be Monsters
Compression left of the roof. | 5m | ||||
V3 | ★ Shelf Life
Crouch start on the slopey ramp and traverse left from under the roof. Move around the lip and traverse back right on good holds. Top out as for "Crab Nebula". FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Crab Nebula
Crouch start on the slopey ramp and take on the roof on the left side. Couple of pads and a large tarp suggested! There is a 2ft diameter pool under the roof! FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 4m | |||
V11 | ★★★ Belly of the Whale
Sit start on good holds down to the left, move up and right through the roof, then up arête to top out. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Dec 2021 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Tour de Jugs
Nice warm up. Start as for Belly of the Whale and traverse left, topping out as for About to Take on Water. | ||||
V1 | High Seas
Sit start on the arete. Top out to the left. FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Jul 2014 | 2m | |||
V9 | ★★★ Sleep Orca
Stand start. LH juggy gaston or flat crimp, RH undercling. Go up a few moves and head left on good holds after the mega jug. *Big boulder at the base has tipped over as of May 2022, considerably changing the start. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Dec 2021 | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Sharknado
Sleep Orca exiting direct via a committing throw. Absolute classic. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Dec 2021 | ||||
V10 | Crabs Have Feelings Too
Start low on flat edge and big pinch. Do a few moves and exit to the lip as early as possible. OG beta didn't use the pocket but probably same grade if you need to use it. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Dec 2021 | ||||
V1 | Down To The Depths
Low start down in hole with RF up high. Follow slopey shelf and arete up and left to top out. Bad landing, at least 2 pads recommended. FA: Jack Folkes, 6 Jul 2014 | 3m | |||
V1 | Free Willy
Sit start on the crimpy rail. Move up via slopey arete to top out to the left over the hole. FA: Jack Folkes, 6 Jul 2014 | 3m | |||
V0 | Sinbad
Sit start on big jug. Move straight up via both aretes to top out. Also the quickest way back down. FA: Jack Folkes, 6 Jul 2014 | 2m | |||
V3 | Keelhaul
Start with LH on sloper, RH on pocket/pinch and RF on jug out right. Move up and left via small crimps. Bad landing, at least 2 pads recommended. Weird to grade. FA: Connor Lucas | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Powder Monkey
Start with LH on pocket/pinch and RH around the arete on pocket, heel hook up high and move up the arete. Bad landing, at least 2 pads recommended. FA: Jack Folkes, 6 Jul 2014 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ The White Slab
Only white when it's sunny... Stand start on shallow pockets. FA: Jack Folkes, 28 May 2017 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Death Crab For Cutie
Sit start on the edge of the block and climb the arete on it's left side. FA: Jack Folkes, 6 Jul 2014 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Here Comes the Sea
Awkward sit start from very low hold, then up. | ||||
V11 | Moby Dick
10m of roof climbing on pockets and pinches. Starts back left of cave, head out towards the centre of the cave mouth. FA: George Fieg | 2m | |||
Arete #1
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Arete #2
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Pockets
There are probably a couple of lines to go on this face on small pockets. | |||||
V5 | ★★ Dead Calm
Sit start from low juggy undercling and make a powerful move up, from where the difficulty eases. | ||||
V7 | ★★ Wheel of Hulk
Start on low undercling jug 2 metres left of Dead Calm. Make a move up to flat pedestal jug and continue all through the cave to top out. | ||||
Booderee National Park Moe's | |||||
V0- | Speedy
The quick way up and the quick way down. Handy for negotiating your way around. FA: mathew smith | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Suicidal
Stand start at the arete on undercling. Head up to join in to Close Call at the hole. FA: Jack Folkes, 8 Dec 2018 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Close Call
Stand start on the ledge/corner. Head up and left to top out near the arete. FA: Jack Folkes, 8 Dec 2018 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Vans on the Wall
Stand start and up the corner. Wearing of vans is optional. FA: daryl jones, 8 Dec 2018 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Swell
Straight up. Wall to the left is not in. FFA: daryl jones FA: mathew smith | 3m | |||
V1 | Dad Bod
Up the round section. Good to have a second mat for the little ledge just off the ground. | 3m | |||
V0+ | Boiz
Fun stuff. Avoid the loose by avoiding the right. FA: daryl jones | 3m | |||
V0 | Get Loose
Easy climb with poor rock quality. FA: mathew smith | 3m | |||
★ 2
| 3m | ||||
3
| 3m | ||||
4
| 3m | ||||
5
| 3m | ||||
V0 | Between Sets
Sit start with opposing side pulls. Move straight up to top out. FA done without pad or shoes in between waves crashing onto the platform... FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Lovely Lady Humps
Sit start under roof. Big move out and mantle. Humping optional. FA: Some bloke who can't dyno for shit., 9 Jun 2019 | 3m |