Routes as sport in Mt Coree area

A hard start with a long press down crimp move. You know you want it.

Strenuous and technical climbing thats harder than it looks.

Start up the easy broken corner and then bust out onto the face with some tricky moves to some great finger locks, easier climbing then to the top.

Climb the over hanging pillar with a crack either side. Some strenuous moves needing some good technique.

A good route to practice your hand jams between rests.

Sustained climbing up the face with a perfect finger lock and a hand crack finish.

Will get your heart pumping.

Funky arete with technical climbing.

Don't climb this during Peregrine nesting season.

Killer jug slapping up the blocks after a delicate face climb start. Was 25 until a hold broke making the crux alittle longer and harder.

Start climbing up Cupola till the chimney then head out left into the overhang on jugs. Another stunning route with superb rock and great exposure.

It's got it all: face, crack, chimney, squeeze. A must do route. Best to clean back down the squeeze or to Top Rope use the higher ring out left. Don't pull the loose blocks off the ledge before the chimney onto your belayer, and wear a helmet to belay.

One of the best routes at the crag! A long route with a punch at the end.

A long pitch on awesome rock with lots of bolts. Possible extension at grade 24 to the single lower off 2m above the chain. Take care of the rope length when lowering!

Technical start on unique fin crimps.

Good little climb with a thoughtful crux.

Nice easy climbing

Up slab to tricky roof then a pumpy headwall.

If you can look past the reinforced and too-good-to-be-true holds there is some excellent steep cranking to be had. Start at the tree stump.

An incredible route through the steep wall up high. Can be finished at the no hands rest half way at grade 22.

Start as for Magic Mushroom but continue straight up.

Funk your way up the chimney to ledge passing halfway anchor and then bust right on some great moves up high.

Open project. Up the seam

Excellent sustained climbing on a slightly overhanging face. A bit soft for the grade and good for doing training laps.

Climb Vikings and continue to a no hands rest at the break. Make your way through the undercut bulge and blast up the centre of the headwall.

Start as for Vikings. From Vikings anchor, climb to break and up two bolts. From here take the right line of bolts. Finish as for Flirtation.

Tricky moves through the overlap leads to much easier climbing

Great route, great position. Access via the rungs to chains. Best to belay from ground, able to lower off with 60m rope on stretch - tie a knot.

Linkup. Climb the first crux of Flirtation, traverse across Blood Eagle into Valhalla and continue up that.

Tricky move to start then up blocks. Great bouldery moves up the arete on flakes and crimps in an exposed position.

Up to the slopy ledge then swing out and climb the sustained face on stella rock to the top.

A punchy start that leads to easier climbing. Go for the on-sight!

Learn to jam the start and stop whining its too hard. Gets much easier after the second bolt.

Good climbing on some great rock. Don't mind the halfway ledge.

The line of weakness left of Edge Lane. Traverse crack and up overhang to top out on face.

Directly up the thin face to the right of Where there's a Will. Thin slab and onto a pillar, then out of an overhang to top out. Ring bolts 4m right and below Where there's a Will. Ring bolts at bottom belay.

Steep jugs up the arete. Starts from a rock pile, and traverses right under the lip to the anchors.

Start marked. A hard move to start, a fun traverse out right then up the corner to the chains.

Totally awesome. Overhangs 50 degrees.

Crimps to a dyno.

Another fun boulder-route hybrid. Underneath and to the left of 'Bombs Away Pretzel Boy' is an obvious low jug rail, a metre or so left of this is a big two-handed flat hold and there's not really anything further left. Sit start boulder on this flat hold with your feet on the jug rail, climb feet first into the jugs and do some fun crimpy steep moves from the jug rail up into the start holds of 'Bombs Away Pretzel Boy' and then finish up this route without escaping too far right into the ledges where you can rest, just power straight up past the bolts and to the chains above as per 'Bombs Away Pretzel Boy'. The boulder on its own finishing on the ledges out to the right is perhaps V6 and very fun and worthwhile on its own despite being a bit lowball at the start. Linking into the route above makes the crux of that route feel substantially harder and a great power endurance route overall. Start tied into a rope with the first draw clipped and one pad under the crux of the boulder and it is a nice and safe little route. Enjoy!

Technical, steep and classy. Crux getting onto the wall.

Originally 23 but now 25 with the loss of a flake.

Classic little warm up, harder now a hold has broken.

Link up of born to fade and flat head. Climb up born to fade for 3 bolts then continue up flat head clipping it's last bolt and chains.

Start at The Crack and take the left arete.

The most open handed of the 26's at Hollywood. Between The Crack and Weazels Ripped My Flesh.

Amazing dynamic climbing. It's on from the get go.

A bit of a unique boulder-route hybrid that makes for a great endurance route at a usually short and burly crag. Start on the good holds at the base of 'Weasels Ripped My Flesh' and traverse the sloper rail rightwards, at the good holds at the start of 'Right Here Right Now' you do a hard sequence to drop down and right a few moves to then come back up into the start of '200 Motels' and the other routes that start here. Continue up 'Return Of The Real' all the way to its anchors.

The best way to do this is to start tied in and ready to lead and have your belayer walk the rope along with you until you clip the first bolt and then climb on as usual. A single crash mat protecting the crux of the boulder is sufficient to make this boulder-route safe and enjoyable.

It's different, it's neither a route nor a boulder, but it IS really fun climbing - have a go! The traverse on its own finishing at the jugs at the first bolt is around V7. Starting at the jugs halfway through the traverse is about V6 and finishing up 'Return Of The Real' from here is about 27. A much harder version finishing up '200 Motels' would add 1 or 2 grades to that route.

Very bouldery and dynamic.

Slopey crux to excellent finish.

Superb arete and roof. Crimpy number.

Linkup. Start up 200 Motels and traverse at the break into the top of Right Here Right Now. An extended draw on the third bolt of 200 Motels protects the traverse.

Very sustained and pumpy until the last move. Was 31, but a new sequence was found. A great route and surprising long for the short crag.

One of the best. Hard for the grade and thin. A number of holds have come off since the first ascent.

Technical and thin. Start up Ice and traverse right to Chilled Eyeball(s).

A warm up on the left.

Warm up on the right, to a shared lower-off.

Start on the boulder and up short arete to chains

Up short corner. Shares chains with Unstable Ally

A nice line rising leftwards from the left gully. 2nd bolt is loose (Mar18), bring a spanner.

One metre left of Hirdwall ... climbing toward the front of the blunt "backside"

One metre left of School Girl Fantasies. Beautiful clean rock on this one.

A pleasant route, with the crux being a slightly blanker section then up through to fourth class territory before the chains. Bolts a bit rusted but still in good nick.

A lovely little ramble, with the first bolt being in good position if you wish to start straight underneath it in the gully, or giving a good little runout if you start at the bottom of the cliff. Once you've passed the last bolt it's fourth class territory to the chains.

Fairly easy lower down, the crux is to find the point in the overlap at which you step over onto the arete.

The crux of this route is just above the first bolt, after which the rest will feel quite easy! The hard moves through the roof are above the indicated grade; or you can use the fairly obvious overlap lower down and climb up the arete to get to the fourth bolt.

A rather odd climb - some quite easy moves up to the first bolt, which continue up to the second, before which the climber is within ground fall territory. Joins up with 'Super Discount' after the third bolt. Similar to Super Discount, if you choose to go through the roof, expect this to be quite hard for the grade. However the smarter move would seem to be trending left to get around the arete...

An interesting climb, with reasonable moves down low turning into a heinous crux just above the third bolt. One for the tall climbers, or shorter people willing to dyno.

• warning. 5th bolt no hanger or nut. 6th bolt loose bring a shifter. To the right of Memory Relapse across a small steep gully. Starts in gully then Follows arête and the face above to anchors.

To the right of Fake News around the corner on the same chunk of rock.

Open project, right of 'Shhh...'.

Shares chains with 'Shhh...'.

Rising out of the bushes on the wall below 'Meet Her at the Love Parade'. A great first lead.

The wandering route up the ledges and cracks on the left end of the wall, that makes far more sense once you realise it was originally a trad route

Shares chains with Catatonic. Up the left arete of the pillar

The right arete of the pillar

Starts a long way right, following the corner and ramp on the right side of the pillar. Tend right to the Jerusalem anchors. There was originally a direct start, but the bolt has been removed

The face a few meters right

Starts at the RHS of the improbable blank looking face. Up the obvious layback feature.

A great long route with a tricky start. Shares chains with Laidback International.

Stem up the arete (!), then bust left through the bulge and up to chains.

Starts 15 meters right of St Vitas' Dance, in the middle of the North buttress. Double ropes are useful.

1. 15m - step off a block and up the wall heading right to a crack. Move left and up to the first bolt. then right and up left past the second bolt. Step right to the third bolt and across to a ledge and belay

2. 10m - Up the easy mossy ramp to the top

Left of the crack and up through the ring bolts

Start up to the right of the crack and through onto the left wall up high. Sustained good climbing

A bouldery start leads to easier climbing. You may want the stick clip.

Same start as Pale Blue Fade but crosses up into Copernican. Good link up.

Technical climbing. Hard Onsight. Traverse in a little from the right to left and then straight up. Good long route

Great physical climbing up the corner and around the overhang onto the higher face.

Short and punchy. A main crux hold broke off in about 2005. It is now about 26-27.