Routes as sport in Canberra

Follow DTS but head up when you're on the tree ledge rather than traversing right to cross a rooflet. Move right (crux) to meet 4th bolt of WNWN.

Start from the 4th (right) belay bolt, moving up then traversing left before going up again and traversing right (crux) after the 3rd bolt to meet the 3rd bolt of Gas Mask & finish up GM or WNWN.

Follow Gas Mask to the 3rd bolt then move left around the cave roof to another bolt (14) and continue up and left to the leftmost DBB.

Easily up trending right starting from the 3rd (right) belay bolt.

The 3rd bolt is an easy reach up from the cave.

Crank through the roof, staying as far right as you dare, then up the headwall (move right then heel hook left) to the middle DBB.

Named for a wonderful smell that was blowing in from the sewage plant when I finally freed the headwall (solo).

2m left of first (rightmost) belay bolt. Head up and right on solid holds until you reach the vertical wall. Heel hook over it and walk up to DBB.

A variant finish probably exists up the crack system, not yet climbed.

A variant, slabby, start can be made from the 2nd belay bolt.

Starts 1 m right of the rightmost of the four belay bolts. Crux is the boulder problem start, which is easier for the tall. Very high first bolt, followed by delightful moves up to bolts and anchor shared with Better Out Than In. Named for a big flake that turned out to be loose and hit the route setter in the face on their first outing.

What looks like an interesting bouldery start is actually very easy but has some fun eliminates. Up the pocketed face trending left, traverse right (exciting) & up to ledge. From there directly up with a short layback (more exciting) & crack climb to DBB.

15/12/2019 - block with last bolt before anchor removed with bolt in situ, first bolt tagged with red tape.

Named because no matter where you look you'll find something to hold on to. Nevertheless quite a fun climb, particularly above the ledge.

Shares 2nd bolt & DBB with TPWP.

Slightly overhanging and pumpy start on good jugs. Nice climbing through the low crux (well-protected) to an easy finish.

Up easily to start & slightly left. Find a right hand crimpy side pull on the otherwise blank face to make the ledge. Up from there through the rooflet then some awkward moves to the chains.

Project.

Not bolted.

A boulder at the top of the wall has 2 bolts for TR access.

Up to ledge on good (but reachy) holds then move right for a couple of moves before reaching the crack. Up the crack and arete for a tricky finish.

Named because it was first climbed on trad & there is zero protection for the first 2/3 of the climb.

A great link up following the 3 bolts of Skid Marks, delicately right to 3rd bolt of Uber Skid, more delicately right (find the side pull) to the 3rd bolt of Long Drop, then up to Long Drop anchors

Start at left side of ledge for a direct start to Skid Marks. Up the right side of the arete moving left to meet 2nd bolt of Skid Marks.

A direct line from the start of Super Skid using the face and flake, topping out at the ledge to the left of Long Drop. After the difficult crossover at bolt 1 position your feet for a good hold in the higher horizontal crack below bolt 2. Left crack & right pocket to layback until you're high enough to get good right holds on the flake. Clip bolt 3 & continue up the flake, using the big pocket at the top to move left to DBB or heelhook to ledge.

Up the right side of the first ledge, moving left around the rooflet (slightly exposed) and then up to ledge & DBB.

Up the right side of the first ledge, sharing 1st bolt with Long Drop, then directly up to second ledge. Think about dinner as you wander up the grassy gully (unprotected) for a few metres to the 2nd bolt & up for an enjoyable finish.

Reachy slab moves to DBB

Follows the stepped, right-facing corner, passing several ring bolts, before moving left past a couple of fixed hangers to double-bolted rings at the top.

Originally graded 14, this is/was the easiest route on the crag. The farthest left route, trending rightwards towards the top to a lower off.

Great technical and sustained climbing on really good rock. Start at the corner and climb up right to the vague arête and boulder your way up weaving left and right of this feature until you get to the last bolt then head right to the anchors of Milla Jovovich. Might be harder than it says on the tin, but maybe not. You be the judge. Fantastic climbing either way!

Originally graded 14, this is the third route from the left. Trends left after the first few metres, then straight up to a lower off.

There is an optional left hand variant start at a few grades stouter

Bouldery start, leads to easy moves up the middle to a very beta intensive crux up high! Holds are there if you look for them

Very height dependant - long reachy moves some might not be able to make.

Closed Project - Justin Ryan. Hard stemming project up the obvious corner system to finish at the anchor shared with 'La Renaissance'.

Hard, bouldery climbing up the uniquely Gritstone-esque arête joining 'Wide World Of Sports' for the last bolt and up to the shared anchor.

First route climbed on the crag. Hard, bouldery climbing on great rock. Shares a lower off with 'Sausage Factory'.

All killer, no filler.

Just like the similarly named virus this route is tricky to figure out, but worth putting in the effort to solve.

Bouldery, beta intensive, power endurance climbing that doesn't relent for what seems like miles leads you to a show stopper boulder up the arête to the anchors.

Bolted by Chris Warner in 1998. Anchors replaced and several bolts moved to better positions by Duncan Brown.

* Difficulty is a bit height dependent and anyone with a short arm span will find several sections quite hard. There is also the opportunity to step left into 'Wide World Of Sports' between the 4th and 5th bolts to take a rest. If you are quite short, or deliberately go more direct and avoid stepping left you can probably take an extra grade.

A fun and obvious link up.

Climb 'Watching Every Move' to the 7th bolt, then climb up and left into 'La Corona' for its last 2 bolts culminating with the spicy arête boulder problem to the anchors.

Sustained moves up the corner.

Climb 'Watching Every Move' past its crux clipping 5 bolts, clip the bolt to the right as for 'Cheerleader' and head right but finish straight up 'Little Bad Girl'.

A more consistent and sustained way to finish 'Watching Every Move'. Very fun!

Up 'Watching Every Move' and traverse right after the crux, crossing 'Little Bad Girl'. Excellent sustained pumper climbing that is rare in Canberra!!!

Another fun, long link up for those that love pumpy routes that feel more like a journey than a boulder.

Start up 'Cheerleader' and at the last bolt before the anchor (the anchor of 'Heaven Sent Honey') head right past 2 bolts to join 'Beautiful and Bald Like Barten' and finish up this to the top.

A little creativity and some long slings on the first 10 metres can prevent rope drag from becoming an issue on this at the end of the route.

The longest and hardest of the link ups. Climb 'Cheerleader' to it's last bolt before the anchor it shares with 'Heaven Sent Honey', climb right past 2 bolts, cross 'Beautiful And Bald Like Barten' and climb the entire upper half of 'Dial M For Monkey' to its anchors.

Long, sustained, fun, pumpy and worth the effort to make it work.

A hold broke off near the start (10th May 2020), but a new hold has now magically appeared.

Excellent moves up the arête! You get a no hands rest in the middle and then hit the crux and a big move above the break. Good for training laps.

A hold broke off near the start (10th May 2020), but a new hold has now magically appeared.

Up 'Little Bad Girl', then branch out right onto the face. Good moves and a cool crux. Mostly fun moves on good holds and crap feet.

A long, pumpy link up that climbs extremely well and provides a length of endurance sport climbing rare around here.

Use a bunch of long slings to reduce rope drag.

Climb Heaven Sent Honey to its last bolt and then traverse right via two new bolts to join Beautiful And Bald Like Barten and finish up to this route's anchors.

Grade will depend on your size as Heaven Sent Honey is morpho / height dependent in the middle. Take whatever grade feels appropriate for you.

Another mega long pumper route, rare for Canberra. Climb as for The Quarantine Zone but continue a little further right and finish up the much harder upper section of Dial M For Monkey.

Both the lower and upper sections are a bit morpho and shorter folk will find them much harder, so just take the grade that fits your experience.

A bunch of really long alpine draws all the way up Heaven Sent Honey make the rope drag on the finish headwall nearly non existent.

Really enjoyable endurance climbing and well worth the effort for anyone seeking a harder endurance route near town.

Originally finished about half height but now extended by Andrew Bull to give full value climbing up the centre of the crag.

Up Beautiful and Bald Like Barten to half height, then break out diagonally right through roofs to lower-off.

Up SA arete to 2/3 height. Traverse left then up sidepulls to lower-off.

Start to the right of the largest white patch on the wall. Up face and arete, then through hard moves to lower-off.

A long route with steep sections separated by rests. Start on the small ledge below the small and shallow chimney.

One of the best routes at the grade in Canberra. Start in the corner moving left under a little roof then up the blunt arête and onto small ledges to chain at the top.

Start as for Arga Noah but move right under the overhang with a hard move to the lip of the ledge. Continue straight up to chains.

Start up Carp Attack then head up the arete (left variant) to finish at chains shared with Carp Attack.

Well protected and easy through the lower part, then a few good harder moves above. Heads right where Straight Edged Emo goes straight up the arete.

Easy up through the blocky section to a ledge then technical climbing on the vertical face.

Great climbing. Start climbing up easy to the ledge. Can be finished here at 16. Continue up the face on good holds with fun crux moves.

Tricky sections of climbing separated by easy climbing. Starts at the vague left facing arete. Be careful of tumbling blocks off this climb.

Start in a short, left facing corner. Traverse diagonally right up the slab then head straight up following the bolts.

A respectable extension of Red Sorghum to the top of the wall - finger locks up high & mind your head game to the anchors!

Note: abseil descent

Start at the fin, boulder to the ledge and then head straight up the face. A slung cam might help protect the runout bit off the first ledge. Finish at lower off for Red Sorghum. Optional #1 friend.

Boulder to the ledge, then up the steep wall. Squirm into a short corner, mantle the ledge then step right and join the end of Bosch Imperialist up to the lower-off.

Start off the boulder and 'slide' up the smooth grey wall to the ledge. Up the funky corner and steep wall to a good stance, then mantle leftwards onto ledge. Keep stemming upwards then grunt and yet another mantle onto the top ledge. Finish at lower off.

Shares a start with three other lower grade climbs, following the obvious blunt arete at the right end of the cliff. The route originally climbed through the ledge to the end of Bosch Imperialist, if you want to finish that way.

Same start as all the far-right hand climbs, then up to the chains under the roof.

Climb The Little Unknown from the shared starting point of the far-right climbs, then stop at the chains before the overlap.

Climb Willie the Pooh, heading right before the chains. Hard through the overlap and of reasonable length.

To the left and down from Hivemind climb the obvious arete. Try to keep to the arete and not wander up the left. A nice and well protected sports climb with 5 bolts. Be careful not to drop rocks on your belayer. Belay back a bit and wear a helmet.

The classic of the crag. At the right end of the quarry is a slab past 3 bolts to a dirt mantle

Crack 1m to the left of RF. Use bolts on RF plus good wires in crack.

Start one meter left of Abseil Corner. The thin crack with a bolt and 2 pegs

The obvious hand crack/corner below a small tree

Start up the arete one meter right of Abseil Corner then move right into the corner on good holds. Up the corner

An excellent climb up the arete two meters right of Chocolate Slugs. A hard move past the bulge, then up on jugs

Start at a jug one meter right of MaB. An awkward start then easily up the groove

Start directly below the BS crack. Straight up the balancey arete to join BS.

The shallow crack three meters right of 'It Takes an Ape' with a few pumpy moves to start