Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 4th May 2024 - Morialta | ||||||
The Lost Walls | ||||||
23 Easy | ★★ Witch Hunt - with Emily Hoffmann | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this. Maybe this style really suits me, but it did feel a bit easy. The lose block at the top is super dangerous, I'll put a flag up here. Would be pretty important for someone who knows what they are doing to remove it. I didn't want to do it as I've never removed something that big from a climb and didn't want to do something stupid! DO NOT touch that block (chalk crosses all over it) — even if it misses your belayer (who would not survive being hit by that) it might still cut the rope. Disaster written all over it.
|
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16 | ★ Surfactant - with Emily Hoffmann | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Not boring and not a bad warm up for your head, but not a lot for your arms!
|
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Flat Rock | ||||||
West Flank | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Hot Zone - with Emily Hoffmann | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I loved this. Awesome boulder down below, some nice face climbing and then an easy roof and glorious juggy finish, what else could you ask for? Em dropped her phone at the roof while cleaning and somehow it survived the fall!
|
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16 | ★ Nuclear Novice - with Emily Hoffmann | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Not a boring warm up!
|
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Tue 9th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Sunnyside | ||||||
23 | ★★ Searching for the Light - with Andrew Dolan, Ross Paynter, Tom | 24m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A hard earned onsight with some screaming because I didn't climb it too well before the cave. Pretty cool climb, big rest in the middle, but hard before that. Bolting on both sides too close to the line does confuse you in a couple of spots...
|
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Sand River | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Arsonist - with Emily Hoffmann | 12m | ||||
Fantastic, I think the highlight here is that Em had the best time and was not intimidated by the climb. We kind of should have done our trip in reverse order and started here, haha...
|
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Fri 22nd Mar 2024 - Fruehauf | ||||||
20 | ★ Bondage and Discipline - with Emily Hoffmann | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fun, but hard for a 20, at least for me. Tassie refuses to stop humbling me. Gotta love this place.
|
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Sand River | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Welcome to the Dark Ages - with Will | 19m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
this is quite good, but I messed the start up a little.
|
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21 | ★★ Unquenched - with Jerome | 8m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun and easier than it looks, so a good warm up actually.
|
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Mon 19th Feb 2024 - The Paradiso | ||||||
21 | ★★ Shock Wave - with Jerome | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty good, but I was so tired I did not climb this very well and almost dropped it at the top — didn't see the hold on the left!
|
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Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Morialta | ||||||
Thorn Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Sardine - with Timothy Tan, Sarah Jessop | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
This is quite fun — not as good as Terra like the book suggests. I agree with the stars here at the crag more. But not bad at all, interesting start!
|
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Wed 17th Jan 2024 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 2 - Central | ||||||
20 | ★ Running to a Standstill - with Emily Hoffmann | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty cool!
|
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Mon 4th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Wally World
- with
Charlie Catt
1
22
45m
lead by
Charlie Catt
that first move is hard!! I dropped it once, but thanks to rope stretch came back to the belay and managed to second the whole pitch clean afterwards, but it felt sustained and so looooong!! The first move is the hardest of the whole route. Great lead by Charlie, who ignored the thread placement suggested in the description!
2
22
30m
lead by
Bruno Alves Buzatto
happy to onsight this, as there were some really technical moves and small sharp crimps. A few good rests too, so not as sustained as pitch 1, but it is intimidating. I placed a #3 low and a #2 closer to the end — they helped, but I wouldn't place anything else. Can totally be done without them too... Felt cool to haul on the jugs on the top to the shock of a large group of kids on the lookout who went insane when I popped up out of nowhere, haha.... | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sensational!!! One of the most scenic short multis. The wall also looks absolutely epic and mega intimidating from the top before the absail. Tourists photographing you the whole time too...
|
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Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Rabbit Season, Duck Season - with Khya Brown | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Putting draws up for the legendary Khya who sent it just before her casual onsight of the 17 to the left!
|
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Lady Grinning Soul - with Charlie Catt, Tom | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sensational, love the crux lower down, then plenty of rests and increadible arete. So good!
|
||||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Soft Parade The Right Hand End | ||||||
17 | ★★ Roundabout Rag - with Charlie Catt | 12m | ★ Good | |||
This is actually pretty tricky on the face, I almost dropped it!
|
||||||
19 | ★★ The Gravity Game - with Ash | 12m | ★ Good | |||
A move in the middle that is trickier than it looks!
|
||||||
Thu 30th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Reservoir Dogs | ||||||
15 |
★ I Don't Tip
- with
Ash, Tom
2
12
22
lead by
Tom
this was mostly in the rain with approach shoes | 36m, 13 | Average | |||
Thu 30th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Nice Vice Baby - with Ash | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is very good, loved the little roof! Felt a tad easier than the 19 to the left, but could be that I did the 19 at the end of the day, tired...
|
||||||
22 | ★★ Nylon Happy - with Tom | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fantastic! So happy to onsight the crux, but sad to see it's a 22 here (23 in the book). I was pretty happy to get a 23 onsight Tom crushed it on second too!
|
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grey Slab | ||||||
13 | ★ Trinity - with Daniel Bush | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great fun for the grade — warming up on this is not a bad idea as you can pull on whichever crimps/holds you find, as there's many. But we were here to put this up for Daniel to climb with his moonboot, despite all common sense and medical advice!
|
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Lady Stardust - with Andrew Dolan | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite a nice climb — jumped on it to help me clean the 3 draws I had put on the 24 on the left after I bailed on that one...
|
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Fri 22nd Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Yesterday's Groove Area | ||||||
23 |
★★★ Rutger Hauer
- with
Andrew Dolan
| 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This is probably the best short multi I've ever done. The approach was already a small adventure, as those raps are long and exposed as hell. Pitches 1 and 2 are a lot of fun and I was quite stoked to onsight pitch 2. I'm claiming an onsight of the route here cause I didn't fall anywhere, but I seconded the crux pitch (3), and without Andrew's beta wouldn't have made it, so would have been a different story on the sharp end. Pitch 4 is not on par with the others (but it's not terrible), but 1 and 2 are great, and 3 is absolutely sensational. I really want to lead it next time — note to self at crux: once getting to the small crimps, make sure to note where that left foot 'slot' is before you move up, that makes all the difference in the world. Then hand jam in the crack higher up, sort feet, change to undercling, attack the gastone on the right, and find the high jug. What an experience and what a position.
|
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Thu 21st Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Daffy - with Andrew Dolan | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just 2 stars here? I thought this was AWESOME! I guess it feels like two pitches because you sit at the top before the headwall, perhaps that makes it less epic. But fun climbing to the traverse, which is tricky, and overall a sensational climb.
|
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Megalong Valley Crags James Bond Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Dr No - with Andrew Dolan | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Couldn't resist another short sport route on the way back to the car after Mr Big on our 'rest day'. Was stoked to onsight a 22 after the multi, but here it's 21 — moves felt a bit hard off the ground, but I guess you only have very few of these in a very short climb, so 21 makes sense. Like a boulder problem.
|
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Megalong Valley Crags James Bond Mr Big Area | ||||||
19 |
★★ Mr Big
- with
Andrew Dolan
| 75m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is absolutely sensational. Our 'rest day' climb recommended by Mark. That little roof and moving to arete later is the best exposure you can get. SO good. We linked pitches 1 and 2, and climbed with double ropes to get back down to the first belay from the top, and then to the ground. A bit of bush bashing as the QR code in the book gives you the wrong car park — the right one is about 200m further down the road.
|
||||||
Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Les Calanques | ||||||
Luminy Aiguille de Sugiton Face Nord | ||||||
4c | ★★★ Arete du vallon - with Emily Hoffmann | 110m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This is a mega classic due to the views and accessibility, given that it's all easy grades. Bolts are really far apart, so bring small-medium nuts and small cams if you want to be perfectly safe. The belays are all confortable (first one the least confortable). It was a super hot day, but it gets in the shade in the afternoon. I was getting pretty sick that day annoyingly, but this was the best climb in the trip for me, for sure.
|
||||||
Mon 31st Jul 2023 - La Montagne Sainte-Victoire | ||||||
Les Deux Aiguilles Médius | ||||||
4c |
★★ Les aromates
- with
Emily Hoffmann
1
4c
2
4c
3
4c
4
4a
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
This was quite exciting to get on, with the grades feeling much harder than they were supposed to be and bolts very far apart. Having some trad gear was crucial. I got fully lost following a diagonal crack in pitch 2 and ended up really far from the belay we were supposed to be at — there are anchors everywhere on that wall! It was super hot in the sun (we started at 12pm in summer!). We had to come down as I wouold have had to downclimb-traverse to find the right anchor and Em was not keen for that.
|
||||||
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Good Life - with Hugh Edwards | 40m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This was sublime. It felt a bit spicy as I was in a hurry not to finish in the dark. Hugh had to finish it in the dark though, sorry mate A couple of runouts to keep you on your toes and a fantastic long technical arete. Absolutely loved it!
|
||||||
Sun 7th May 2023 - Onkaparinga | ||||||
Red Cliff Right Tier | ||||||
22 | ★★ Lokomotiv - with Ross Paynter, Emily Hoffmann, khya | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is really fantastic!! Loved the slab with a spicy but easy run out, and the top was super cool. Beware the loose stuff just before the roof!
|
||||||
Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Waitpinga | ||||||
Cephalopod Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Mercy Medium - with Hugh | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is a lot of fun — great intro to the crag. You start on the 13 and have two different options in the end depending on how you're feeling I ended up on the 17 apparently!
|
||||||
Mon 24th Apr 2023 - Waitpinga | ||||||
Cephalopod Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Smooth Sailing - with Hugh, Josh | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Incredible, amazing! True slab moves getting up on your feet with little to nothing on hands! I was happy to have a black totem cam close to the end, but not really necessary.
|
||||||
Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
21 | ★ The Natives are Restless P1 - with Josh | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
That's probably a better warm up for me than Peregrine!
|
||||||
Sat 11th Feb 2023 - Morialta | ||||||
Thorn Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★ October - with Felipe | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
This is not bad, but I will not warm up on it — quite pumpy! Feels stiff for grade.
|
||||||
Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Onkaparinga | ||||||
Red Cliff Main Wall - Lust sector | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Hat - with Hugh | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Great climb, but not as nice as blades, and I reckon easier than blades too — I reckon I agree with the book.
|
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Tue 10th Jan 2023 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 3 - Right | ||||||
20 | ★ Felch Me With A Crazy Straw, Yeah! RHF - with Seb | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
That's a better way to finish it I reckon.
|
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Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 2 - Central | ||||||
15 | ★ Rainbow Wall LHF - with Emily Hoffmann | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
weird but ok I guess... Keen to try that 21 version next time.
|
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Sun 11th Dec 2022 - Onkaparinga | ||||||
Red Cliff Main Wall - Lust sector | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Blades Of Glory - with Rika | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is such a gem, I loved it. Guide book said 22, so I'm a bit sad to see 21 here — thought I was getting stronger, but we all know I don't get stronger. Makes sense in hindsight — fair grade.
|
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Fri 28th Oct 2022 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 4 - Graffiti Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ AO - with Hugh | 8m, 3 | ||||
Forgot to log on the day, now I think it was an onsight, but was it? good climb, a tad stiff for a warm up (for ME), but might try to warm up on this next time...
|
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Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 2 - Central | ||||||
18 | ★ Exodus RHS - with Seb | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
this is better than the 16
|
||||||
16 | ★ Exodus - with Seb, Zander, Brooke, Khya | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
I'm sure I did this before, with Em, and forgot to log. It was an onsight before, so I'll log it now as one.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Des' Dihedral - with Seb, Brooke | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice 'tonsight' for the day — climbed with the rope on the route to the right to set up a TR for the others. Will come back to do it on gear, as it's really nice. Isn't this trad?! Don't remember seing bolts...
|
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17 | ★ Running to a Standstill RHF - with Seb | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Didn't realize I did the RHF until logging it here now — damn! Well, will go back I'm sure...
|
||||||
Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 4 - Graffiti Wall | ||||||
20 21 | ★★ The Electric Lavender Vacuum Cleaner - with Seb | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good but short!
|
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Thu 22nd Sep 2022 - Onkaparinga | ||||||
Red Cliff Right Tier | ||||||
22 | ★ Red Corvette - with Seb, Vera | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is excellent, I really enjoyed it! Feels cruisy with some arete technique!
|
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17 | ★ Around the Horn - with Seb | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
A decent warm up for here
|
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Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 3 - Right | ||||||
18 | ★ Obsessive Compulsive Disorder - with Stacey | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The good warm up on this wall.
|
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Sun 27th Mar 2022 - Onkaparinga | ||||||
Red Cliff Far Right | ||||||
18 | ★★ Stiletto - with Emily Hoffmann | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This one is actually pretty great. Cool start, and then straight forward. Will probably be back! It was HOT though, and lookout for paper wasps!
|
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Sun 27th Mar 2022 - Onkaparinga | ||||||
Red Cliff Right Tier | ||||||
16 | ★ Elephunky - with Emily Hoffmann | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
omg, what a long hiatus of climbing... Grat to be back, and so excited with Onkaparinga. But don't think I'll be coming back to this route tbh.
|
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Sun 5th Sep 2021 - Midgegoroo National Park | ||||||
Over The Hill Big Man’s Rump | ||||||
19 | ★ Big Man’s Rump - with Mitch | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nice, I wish the crack at the start kept going for longer. I did without a #4, just a #3, but having a #4 would make it much safer.
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Desperate Housewives - with Mitch | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, tricky thin holds at the start and then faith-slab at the top!
|
||||||
16 | ★ Community Service Slab - with Mitch | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
An adequate warmup for here!
|
||||||
Sun 6th Jun 2021 - Kalbarri | ||||||
The Z Bend Bison Wall | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Tribal Monkeys - with Emily Hoffmann | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is better than I expected, not sure why Chris hated it so much! Draws were up, but I hadn't seen anyone on it really, so I'll call it an onsight, hopefully the ethics police won't mind!
|
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Wed 5th May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
22 | ★★ Thai Virus - with Daniel Bush | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I thought this was fantastic, and very happy to onsight at this grade, which I certainly don't do often! Save energy for the last move!
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Birthday Bolts - with Daniel Bush | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought I had been on this before, but apparently not. Great climb!
|
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Mon 3rd May 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Bald Head Long Routes | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Weld Party - with Emily Hoffmann | 80m, 45 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This is incredible! I hadn't been on a multi pitch for a while, so the hang belay at the end of pitch 1 was spicy for me, but Em and I had a blast in the end One of my favorites in the blueys due to the nice grade and amazing views. Approach is great as well, just a 1h walk, not raps needed to start. So easy to bail in case the weather turns or something. We also saw a police chopper kick some kids out of Baltzar Lookout - do people base jump from there?
|
||||||
Mon 5th Apr 2021 - Pinjarra | ||||||
Boomer Hill Spring Grove Farm Cutting | ||||||
14 | ★ Butterfly Effect - with Emily Hoffmann | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Good warm up for the day. Just one carrot at top?
|
||||||
Thu 31st Dec 2020 - The Stirling Ranges | ||||||
Mount Trio Pied de Monte Boulders | ||||||
19 | ★★ Piece de Resistance - with Emily Hoffmann | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tough start! Fun after.
|
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Wed 30th Dec 2020 - Porongurups | ||||||
Angwin Peak West Face | ||||||
18 |
★ Fear of a Blank Planet
- with
Jorge
1
15
30m
lead by
Jorge
2
18
30m
lead by
Jorge
| 60m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Fun, well protected right before the crux so you don't have to fear being grated! Keen to lead next time.
|
||||||
Sat 10th Oct 2020 - Kalbarri | ||||||
Four Ways Stellar Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Aimless Blade of Science - with Emily Hoffmann | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic climb! Difficult start, and then glorious arete. The anchor bolts are a bit far apart vertically, and there's another 4m of climbing after them, so it's easy to keep climbing to the top and think there's no anchor! Be aware!
|
||||||
Sat 12th Sep 2020 - Mountain Quarry | ||||||
Playboy Area | ||||||
17 | ★ Bumble Aye - with Emily Hoffmann | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
apparently I hand't done this one?
|
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Sat 9th May 2020 - Darlington | ||||||
Deception Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Deception - with Aime Raude | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
This is really good, and a mental exercise.
|
||||||
Sat 7th Mar 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Powerbra Rangers - with Emily Hoffmann | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit reachy, but what an awesome warm up!! Funky moves on the flake and close to the top with a left gaston. Awesome stuff.
|
||||||
Sat 7th Mar 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Chasing Amy Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Chasing Amy - with Emily Hoffmann | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Coisa linda! Technical but not so strenuous, loved it. Also well worth starting from the bottom, straight up, via the cool little small crack to the right of the waterfall. I did put a small cam in there though...
|
||||||
Mon 27th Jan 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Choc Chip Chai Sector | ||||||
20 | ★★ Choc Chip Chai - with Daniel Bush, Alvaro | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
such a nice little gem, and tougher finish than I expected!
|
||||||
Wed 25th Dec 2019 - Mountain Quarry | ||||||
Fuzzbucky Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Double Happiness - with Emily Hoffmann | 35m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is really good, a bit of everything: hard slab and some technical moves in two different parts. But it's long, I don't suggest doing it with a 60m rope — Em had to scramble up to the right to get me to the ground!
|
||||||
Wed 25th Dec 2019 - Mountain Quarry | ||||||
The Black Bay | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Ride of the Valkyries - with Emily Hoffmann | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
It's a nice 18 for Mt Quarry, I'm surprised I hadn't done that before!
|
||||||
Tue 3rd Dec 2019 - Joll's Bridge | ||||||
Lower cliffline | ||||||
17 | ★ Natie Head - with Emily Hoffmann | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Nice warm up. Different moves, nothing powerful.
|
||||||
Sun 20th Oct 2019 - Mountain Quarry | ||||||
Mull Up Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★ Mull Up - with Jorge | 23m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, I loved this, I think it's a little gem in MQ. Just make SURE you have medium and small cams and that you comfortably climb this grade — there is a scary run out between the first bolt and the cam placements, but easy climbing there. Then scary run out after the slab, but safe I think. In terms of moves, the climb packs a variety of fun stuff, with hard slab where you are really climbing on friction to get through the crux — Mt Cuthbert feelings!! This should be a mixed route though, not sport...
|
||||||
Sun 20th Oct 2019 - Mountain Quarry | ||||||
Playboy Area | ||||||
21 | ★ Hustler - with Jorge | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Hum, not sure I stayed left enough in the first two slabs now that I read the description. I tried, but it's really contrived on that point, I kept feeling I was between this route and Penthouse. Really loved the end of this climb, using that cool crack that goes left of the anchors!! Will maybe come back on another occasion and try to stay as left as possible before the 3rd bolt.
|
||||||
Sat 19th Oct 2019 - Churchman's Brook | ||||||
The West End | ||||||
19 | ★ Red Giant - with Emily Hoffmann | 30m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought this was really really good actually, but I am happier calling it a mixed line. I placed quite a bit of gear to feel better on it and protect the second from massive swings...
|
||||||
Sun 13th Oct 2019 - Berowra | ||||||
Pimple Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ Taylor Made - with Nik | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
alright warm up, but very short. 4 moves?
|
||||||
Sun 15th Sep 2019 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sharon Stone - with Daniel Bush | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and delicate, hard at the end of the day!
|
||||||
15 | ★ Stingray - with Daniel Bush | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
A good warm-up, except that it's a bit upside down — hardest move is the first and it only gets easier.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Inbreeds in the Midst - with Daniel Bush | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, a bit strange at the end — the bolt sends you right, but the obvious line is more left... Then there's the issue of two carrots for anchor, with a dodge as climb out after the anchor, so basically a pain in the ass to clean...
|
||||||
Sat 14th Sep 2019 - Joll's Bridge | ||||||
Lower cliffline | ||||||
20 | ★★ Woodface Direct - with Daniel Bush | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just the first pitch, but that direct variation is hard! Can't wait to get back to that cave at the end of the first pitch and do the second pitch out, amazing ledge at the top and fantastic scenery!
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21 | ★★ The Climb that was - with Daniel Bush | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is fantastic!!
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Sun 18th Aug 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area | ||||||
20 |
★★ Randy Rabbit Ridge
- with
Tim Dove
1
20
25m
lead by
Tim Dove
3
20
25m
lead by
Tim Dove
5
17
45m
linkup Linked with pitch 6
, lead by
Tim Dove
8
20
30m
lead by
Tim Dove
10
18
30m
lead by
Tim Dove
| 280m, 99 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Stoked that Tim and I managed to do this MEGA-CLASSIC all clean and within my best hopes "time-wise" — we got up at 5:30, started the walk at 6:30, started climbing at 8:30, and finished ~2pm. Then back at the car 3:30pm, so car-to-car in 9h, with nice breaks, long lunch stop at the top and a bit of getting lost and bush-bashing at the end...
First 2 pitches are sensational, with the second one being the hardest of the whole thing maybe. Third pitch a bit easier than first two. Pitch four is all about that first move, and it's easy to f-up and stop at the anchors for BBB — make sure to keep walking/climbing and belay from the top of the wall after lunch ledge, not bottom. We then linked pitches 5 and 6 (so we did 10 pitches), but note that the description in the book is perfect, but the topo is as bit off for these middle pitches. Make sure to just find the tree just before the wall on the right (start of pitch seven), it's quite obvious. Pitch 7 again with slightly bouldery move after bolt 3, then easy. Pitch 8 is the holy-shit pitch, what a scary/airy as hell and amazing traverse. But juggy all the way. Pitches 9 and 10 are easier than I expected, and not really pumpy, although it's easy to be tired by then... Pitch 11 is really cool, with one hard bouldery move after the slab, and then a delicate finish. What a mega classic!! Can't wait to come back and lead the even pitches! |
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Sat 17th Aug 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Historic Wells | ||||||
20 | ★★ Funkytown - with Tim Dove | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Powerful and reachy, but really nice!
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Sat 17th Aug 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Electric Blue Area | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Electric Blue - with Tim Dove | 35m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really good!! Don't love having to traverse a bit at the top, but such a nice mixed route. Oh, yeah, by the way, you should definitely take some gear up in my opinion, this is more of a mixed route... Maybe I'm just not solid!
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Sat 17th Aug 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Hermione - with Tim Dove | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice warm up, but damn your fingers hurt when the rock is cold... Thankfully not too many crimps in this one!
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Sun 14th Jul 2019 - Mt Ku-ring-gai | ||||||
Moto Cross wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Do you dyno - with Daniel Bush | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I onsighted most of this, but fluffed around the start for a bit until I stick-clipped the SECOND bolt (first one i a bit pointless?), so not sure it counts. But it's not like I'm a pro and my sponsorship depends on honest accounts of my ascents The start is really cool and unique, and the move from the ledge also very cool. Best route I did here, but probably easier than Life on Hold!
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19 | ★ Dinosaurs must die - with Emily Hoffmann | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Another fun start, but with some spice at the top as well!
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17 | ★ Extinction Never Felt So Good - with Emily Hoffmann | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
fun start, but not much to it.
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Sun 7th Jul 2019 - Berowra | ||||||
Cave of Soap | ||||||
20 | ★★ Luv Handles - with Daniel Bush | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
So much fun, but a bit scary! Not to mention the old anchors into the roof (so pulling out with your weight).
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Sun 7th Jul 2019 - Berowra | ||||||
Pimple Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Look Blue Go Purple - with Daniel Bush | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
short but fun!
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Sun 30th Jun 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
- with
Che
2
18
25m
lead by
Che
4
19
35m
lead by
Che
| 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This is sensational, it's got it all — overhanging start, delicate face climbing, juggy overhanging arete, long moves, everything!! One of my favourite multis in the mountains. Pitch 4 for me had the most technical moves. Pitch looks intimidating as hell, but it's not that bad — but WHAT exposure! The best position, fantastic. Can't wait to go back!!
|
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Sat 1st Jun 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Upper Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Watergate - with Emily Hoffmann | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yay, only my second 23 onsight! Maybe a tad soft for the grade? It was bloody cold and my fingers hurt like hell though...
|
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Sun 12th May 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Shakes and Flakes Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Shakes and Flakes - with Roni | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bloody nails!!! It would have been easier if I had better technique I guess, but I was absolutely desperate. Felt like my hardest onsight ever!!
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Sun 14th Apr 2019 - Narrabeen | ||||||
Slabs | ||||||
21 | ★ B - with Emily Hoffmann | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this, and had no problem with the top bit. But how does one avoid going into the cave like a skink? I find it a bit contrived to try to stay out of the cave, but maybe that's what less scared climbers do? Oh, that anchor needs rebolting too!!!
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18 | ★★ Muscoviet Mosquito - with Emily Hoffmann | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty sweet!
|
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18 | ★★ Manic - with Emily Hoffmann | 17m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great slab!
|
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16 | ★ A spoonful of Sugar - with Emily Hoffmann | 7m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
An ok warm up, but really short...
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Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
23 | ★★ Rudolf the Bloody Reindeer - with Che | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I am so stoked — my first23 onsight ever! That start is pretty interesting, but not that bad, just gotta commit. The rest is pretty consistent at grade 21-22, and the end a bit technical (+ I was pumped as hell at that stage). Bloody loved it!
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20 | ★★ Mr Christmas Poo - with Che | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is sensational: great variety of moves, a start that looks gnarly as hell (but it's actually ok) and a lot of space under you from the first move, making it feel like the second pitch of a longer route. What else can you ask from a sport route?!
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18 | ★★ Johnny's Jalopies - with Che, Vicki | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than the ones to the right, as the stars suggest!
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19 | ★ Jimmy Valmer - with Che | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Good, but a bit too much "compressed" between the two neighbouring routes, it shares holds with the one on the left especially, which is a bit confusing. Unfortunately a crimp exploded when Che was climbing, right at the crux, so it might be harder now
|
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18 | ★ Mr Scumbag - with Che, Vicki | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Tough!
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Sat 2nd Mar 2019 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Bayside Werner Burner Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Werner Burner - with Gundula | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gundula's first climb at Point Perp. I should have chosen something a bit easier for us to warm up on Amazing climb though, but it's more like a mixed route if you start low enough. Pumpy at the end, but not that technical. Maybe soft for 21? I agree with the book's grade — 20.
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Sun 10th Feb 2019 - Jane Fonda Workout Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Whacking Moles - with Chris | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Even better than the one on the right! Just as hard!
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