Ascents by Bruno Alves Buzatto

amazing line. First time I went clean from the halfway rest to the end, but still need to dial the first half and link it all. One day!

working on it, still lots of rests...

This is so good — first time I get that sequence after the first draw, avoiding the dead point move. Slab and roof went better this time, but all with lots of rests on the draws...

Happy to get to the top clean while placing the draws this time! Such a hot arvo (for May!), surprised myself I got there.

Holy shit this felt hard. So glad Justin led this and I had the opportunity to second, but I can't imagine getting good enough to lead it. Did all moves clean, but needed a rest after the traverse and before the techy crux on the slab. Pretty runout and dangerous if you're not super solid. There are some serious no fall sections on this.

This is sensational. I can imagine trying to lead it in the future, but another few attempts on TR would be needed before I was game enough to try it! Probably a PP after that before considering a RP... serious stuff. Was nice to use a finger lock at some point there (although only possible after cleaning Justin's cam from the crack, so probably can't use that in the lead, haha)

Probably my best experience leading a trad pitch ever. Sublime. I used to be so intimidated by this line it took me 3 trips to try it. While at the top I looked down and couldn't believe what I had just done, haha... For me this was not easy at all. The start was my style, felt easy and I was not as scared as I anticipated. But I was terrified of dropping it later on while doing more unusual moves (for me) involving jams. But what a fucking line. Gear is everywhere and there are jugs and rests to allow you to get those 40m clean. I got to the end of pitch 1 and started cellebrating, until Justin told me that the second pitch was harder and still above me, hahaha... Sheer determination saw me to the top after that, even with very little pieces left on my harness. It will be hard to have a better experience climbing trad in Australia. Test-piece for 19 given the length I think. Wish I could log it as an onsight, but I've seen too many people doing it before. Justin led it earlier in the day and left a piece when cleaning, but I made sure to pull it out and replace it for the real flash, haha...

All pitches onsighted by the leaders, but only Justin did the crux clean, and Will and I had sits on 2nd. That's a really hard crux for 21 BTW! Cool classy route.

Amazing stuff, and a bold lead by Justin. Pitch 1 has a lot of spice — hard moves off the ground, a daunting crux for me, and then that runout on scoops, wow! The roof in pitch 2 is bloody awesome and relatively well protected. Gotta come back for the lead, but will shit my pants probably. Justin led pitches 1 and 2, then I led the rubbish top out (grade 12?), only to see Justin arrive behind me ropeless!

two unsending laps, but hard for me after having fought with little trundle street today!

Not too bad, for Adelaide it could probably do with another star! Can't say I worked out an elegant way at the top, and even on my third go still almost dropped it before the fifth bolt! Worth doing though.

Proud to have dogged this classic to the top finally. I had watched so many people going through that epic roof, it was aswesome to get through the moves myself for the first time. Feels hard, so much to work on, but I can finally start trying

First go this morning!! Andrew's beta through most of this, with Trang's footwork in the crux, Mike's drop knee after the shield hold and Akira's gastone + stepping up to undercling. Perfect conditions, perfect execution, massive teamwork beta, haha... Ross, I promise next time I come back I'll try your sick kneebar, but I needed to send it this way first

How many times can a man fall from the same spot — keep an eye on this space and I'll let you know!

For next time though: Andrew & Trang's mixed foot sequence through the crux, Mike's sick right drop knee at the top and Akira's gastone. Teamwork might put this together

Really enjoyed this. Maybe this style really suits me, but it did feel a bit easy. The lose block at the top is super dangerous, I'll put a flag up here. Would be pretty important for someone who knows what they are doing to remove it. I didn't want to do it as I've never removed something that big from a climb and didn't want to do something stupid! DO NOT touch that block (chalk crosses all over it) — even if it misses your belayer (who would not survive being hit by that) it might still cut the rope. Disaster written all over it.

Not boring and not a bad warm up for your head, but not a lot for your arms!

Three attempts — I'm better off with Trang's footwork through the crux, but don't have the endurance to do well on 3 attempts unfortunately. Maybe the weekend?!

I loved this. Awesome boulder down below, some nice face climbing and then an easy roof and glorious juggy finish, what else could you ask for? Em dropped her phone at the roof while cleaning and somehow it survived the fall!

Not a boring warm up!

This is quite fun! It was never going to be a flash for me though. I won't weigh in on the grade (in the "difficulty feedback"), other than saying that I don't think it's soft enough to be downgraded to 22. Probably feels easier for a boulderer, but for me would be a solid 23 at least! Dropped at the weird top in my second go, so needed a third!

Sensational. Love the belay spot and the second pitch is wonderful. Getting Em back into multis!

Very cool, feels insecure at the start with some slopy feet, but mostly easy moves and fiddly small gear! This was the only "free" line around wih SO many people this weekend...

A lot of fun, I don't think anyone should ever stop at the anchors of Grurper DS, just take 4 more draws and enjoy the Anzac headwall I "onsighted" the mini traverse between them, but there were draws on Grurper and I've done both original routes, so logging a cheeky RP here...

Small improvement. One fall in each try, but footwork is getting much better, I can see the light!

gotta keep the ethical high standards — I saw someone on it from some distance earlier in the day and draws were up, so a hard earned flash. So short, and yet felt hard at the top. Maybe this is this crag's peregrine, the perfect warm up Will be good to stop climbing around the horn...

This is a lot of fun, and I got much higher on my first go than I expected. That crux will take some time to learn properly though... Felt more complicated than most of my summit projects, but less endurance needed.

Absolutely excellent, but too sustained for my last day of the trip. Fell of amazing jugs and had no skin (or time!) to try again. Thanks so much Andrew for belaying with an injured finger! We'll come back I'm sure. The views were the highlight!

What a little gem this was. Wasn't looking at doing it, but got it recommended by other climbers. With some good beta from Peter (Trang and Josh's mate), I almost flashed it — beta was clip 3rd, drop down a bit and traverse left on some side pulls (right hand) and gastones (left hand), then up in the corner. That all went first go, but then I messed up the roof move. Sent it second go though, and had pump in the end to keep climbing and try the start of the extension, but obviously didn't get far on that...

Came back to Shipley for Language of Desire but it was so wet... Jumped back on this line thinking that this time I could do it and it was even worse than back in 2019. A bit devastating, haha... Ok, beta for next time: from the rail, left hand on the diagonal crimp, turn body left, right foot on small hold, left foot on rail (flaging right leg), stem/push right wall with right hand, find right crimp (low one, under pocket), squeeze body in corner, righ leg on jug (drop knee?), reach left hand to sloper, then right hand to hidden jug on the arete. I THINK...

Better than expected! The approach is almost the same for DRP, and an adventure in itself. In Shandy the scramble out after P2 is also another adventure! We did the first 3 pitches, absailed down back to the top of 2 and scrambled out left. Gave P4 (or 3b as per book) a miss given the warnings here in The Crag. Also looked pretty weird to get into the chimney — would have been a challenge!

all in that sequence in the middle — I couldn't put it together! Andrew worked it out and was so close to the tick!

One of the best 22s I've ever done. I feel like I didn't rest well where I could have and messed up the crux higher up. Same thing on second cleaning... For next time: bump the left hand in the sequence of bad crimps, rather than trying left-right. Sustained for the grade. Memorable detail — Ross decked on rope stretch on the first move and broke the stickclip he was carrying up!

Such a cool fun route. I watched the others try and was not convinced I could pull on that roof, but the holds are really good. Still, my footwork wasn't great and I peeled the feet at some point, and then pumped out just before the regular (non-perma) draw. It was pretty unique to pull the lip with rain on my face, tap the anchors and downclimb/fall to clean!

Good.

Just joking, Andrew! Never been so proud of dogging something to the top. The most sustained thing I'ver ever been on. The rain and wind came in while I was getting up so I pulled on draws and did not do all the moves to get to the top, but was happy to get to the anchors before the rain got stronger.

A hard earned onsight with some screaming because I didn't climb it too well before the cave. Pretty cool climb, big rest in the middle, but hard before that. Bolting on both sides too close to the line does confuse you in a couple of spots...

Good warm up for here, some bits with tiny crimps. Top is fun too.

Not what we had planned for today, but the NP tracks closure (due to 150mm of rain the other day) and the 4 stars of this route in the book got us here. Pretty tricky first pitch, and the belay at the top of it is awkward with the 2 old carrots of TGITM and one new ring 1.5m to the right of it. In my opinion the second pitch made it up for it as it is beautiful, long, and can be made easy with some technique. Great scenery too. Well worth it for the second pitch, but I can see how the first one can be loved or hated... I suspect some people move into The End of the Affair too early — you unavoidable get onto this route at the end by following the most obvious line of new ring bolts after P1, so I suggest not moving right too early if you don't have gear!

What a classic and lovely climb. Pretty epic to think that I woke up in Adelaide at 4am today and was attempting one of the best items in the bucket list on the say day! Probably won't go in this trip, but would love to project it if I could be here longer... Second go was to put draws back up for Andrew, and I'm happy I at least got to the anchors!

First route of the trip, pretty cool to do something here first go, even if it's too easy for a warm up for most people here!

Got to the 4th bolt clean for the first time, clipped it and climbed for another 3 or 4cm, haha... highest point so far though.

bare feet ascent for something different! I think my climbing shoes are so old and shit that I almost didn't feel the difference...

three dogs while Andrew shows me the way. Apparently feet are involved in climbing!