Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5c 6a+ | ★ Spettacolo | 20m | Nago | ★ Good | Sat 31st May 2014 | |||
6 6+ | ★ Ave Maria - with Klaus G. | 50m | Donautal | ★ Good | Fri 8th Aug 2014 | |||
6 6+ | ★★ Rampe - with Alexander Oppe | 30m, 11 | Amberg | ★★ Very Good | Mon 19th Jul 2021 | |||
Really nice route to warm up, but it felt much easier than 6+. Compared to the Ambergverschneidung, it is probably overrated. That was not good for me, then I was very wrong about the rating of other routes and we made fools of ourselves.
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5+ 5c | ★ Tio Listo - with Inga | 18m, 6 | Puig St. Martí | ★ Good | Thu 14th Jun 2018 | |||
Don't know why Rockfax gives two stars.
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5c | ★ Taccolo | 8m | La Sfinge | Average | Sat 30th May 2015 | |||
5c | ★★ Bloccolo - with inga | 8m | La Sfinge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th May 2015 | |||
5c | ★ Zeppolo | 8m | La Sfinge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th May 2015 | |||
5c | ★ Il Primo Specchio | 15m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Sun 1st Jun 2014 | |||
5c | ★★★ H2O - with Inga | 25m | Molveno S. Antonio | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 2nd Jun 2014 | |||
5c | ★★ El Skirat | 25m | Molveno S. Antonio | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Jun 2014 | |||
5c |
★★ Füesslerkante (Füesslerkante P1)
- with
Wile E Coyote
1
lead by
Me
| 80m | Alpstein | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Oct 2014 | |||
Very nice. Protection is sufficient and rock is very good. First meters until the second bolt are the most difficult of pitch one.
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5c | ★ Fessura - with Inga | 6m, 3 | Pian Schiavaneis | ★ Good | Mon 25th Aug 2014 | |||
5c | ★★ Usignolo - with Inga | 14m, 6 | Pian Schiavaneis | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Aug 2014 | |||
5c | ★ Via del lumàc - with Inga | 15m | Val Lomasone | ★ Good | Sat 4th Apr 2015 | |||
5c | ★★ Via del skilàt - with Inga | 20m | Val Lomasone | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Apr 2015 | |||
5c | ★ Scala Rovescia (Nameless2) - with Inga | 25m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Apr 2015 | |||
5c | ★ Cymbale rutilante - with Inga | 7m, 3 | Gorges du Chassezac | ★ Good | Wed 31st May 2023 | |||
5c | ★★ N.N.2 | 12m | Valle del Sarca | Tue 11th Jun 2019 | ||||
5c ~5b+ | ★ Piccolo Principe - with Inga, Rosalie, Matilda, Felix | 13m, 5 | Finale Ligure | ★ Good | Wed 24th Aug 2022 | |||
No idea if this was the route we equipped for the kids. Just hopped on the most easy looking line and setup the top rope. Unfortunately we were too late. The sunshine came around already. 😰
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5c | ★★ Lenti Serpenti | 50m | Sass Negher | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Apr 2023 | |||
80m rope is not enough to descent from the top.
|
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5c | ★★★ Sous l'Oeil des Papaces (L1) - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 20m | Les Pérouses | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 20th May 2024 | |||
Wow what a route. Jugs up to the crux. Then extraordinary laybacks with good feet. I'm loving it.
No idea if there is a second pitch (as shown in the guidebook of R. Durieux). After the lower off there is a lot of vegetation and I didn't see a bolt to head for. |
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5c | ★★★ Amazone (L1) - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 20m | Les Pérouses | ★★★ Classic | Mon 20th May 2024 | |||
No idea if there is a second pitch (as shown in the guidebook of R. Durieux). After the lower off there is a lot of vegetation and I didn't see a bolt to head for.
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5c ~5b+ | ★★★ Super Lunule - with Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck | 35m | Les Pérouses | ★★★ Classic | Mon 20th May 2024 | |||
Wow. Worth the approach.
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18 | ★★ Green Machine | 20m, 14 | Bronkhorstspruit Crag | Sat 1st Feb 2014 | ||||
The crux was wet :-( #pinkpoint
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18 | ★★★ Snakeskin Safari Suit | 15m, 10 | Waterval Boven | ★★★ Classic | Tue 4th Feb 2014 | |||
Really a classic route.
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6 | ★★ Korallenriff - with Erik, Maya | 15m, 4 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Aug 2015 | |||
Short crux at the end of the starting off-width crack. Leave the crack to the left.
#wamup, #afterwork
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6 | ★★ Po - with Erik, Maya | 20m | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Aug 2015 | |||
Very nice route. Good rock. Starts with a 5m traverse to the right, then upwards through a little overhung (crux). The guidebook displays in the topo that the route now crossed 'Holgers Traum' heading right, but I can't believe that. The continuation is much harder than 6+. IMHO the route continues straight vertical into the dihedral and ends with a hand crack.
#afterwork
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6 |
★★★ Abendtraum (Abendtraum P2)
2
| 30m | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Fri 20th Jun 2014 | |||
6 | ★★ Frühsportweg | 30m, 6 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Jun 2014 | |||
6 | ★★★ Plattenriss - with Erik | 20m, 6 | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Thu 23rd Jul 2015 | |||
I'm glad that I ascended it on sight. I'm still not fit again, but with a nice fist jam it was almost no problem to climb the crux.
#afterwork
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6 | Muttertag - with Wile E Coyote | 15m | Mägdeberg | ★ Good | Tue 4th Jul 2017 | |||
6 |
★ unnamed 2 (unnamed 2 P1)
- with
Inga
1
| 50m, 15 | Walgau | ★ Good | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | |||
6 |
Halbi Vieri (Halbi Vieri P1)
- with
Inga
1
| 50m, 10 | Walgau | Average | Sat 19th Jul 2014 | |||
Scary distance between bolts. Just 5 in 30m.
|
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6 | ★ Klettern, nicht kotzen - with Lamπ[tm] | 15m, 3 | Donautal | Tue 16th Jul 2013 | ||||
6 | ★★ Lätz Fätz - with Inga | Klettergarten Rifa Partenen | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Aug 2022 | ||||
6 | ★★ Plättili - with Inga, Rosalie, Matilda | 20m, 5 | Klettergarten Latschau | Wed 25th Aug 2021 | ||||
6 | ★★ Soloteufel - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck | 30m, 7 | Uracher Alb | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | |||
5b+ 5+ | ★ La vie de Tonucho Variante | 15m | Tenerife | ★ Good | Wed 29th May 2013 | |||
5b+ 5+ | Sei Una Rosa - with Inga | 8m, 6 | Pian Schiavaneis | Mon 25th Aug 2014 | ||||
5c 6- | ★★ Schattalagant - with Moxi | 15m, 7 | Walgau | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Apr 2018 | |||
Nice dihedral.
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5c 5a - c | ★★ Alzheimer - with Inga | 25m, 8 | Puig St. Martí | Tue 12th Jun 2018 | ||||
Slipped at the crux but didn't fall. Crux at a flake with super side holds.
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5c | ★ Tienila - with Martin | 12m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Thu 9th Jun 2022 | |||
5c | Spinnä - with Ronny, Ulrike | 20m | Schollberg | Sun 23rd Jun 2019 | ||||
5c | Grincheux - with Felix, Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | Grande Jeanne | Fri 24th May 2024 | |||||
5c | Gear on ★★★ Schtroumph escalade - with Felix, Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | Grande Jeanne | Fri 24th May 2024 | |||||
6 | ★★ Hijera - with Cury | 20m, 8 | Spiegelstein | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Jun 2017 | |||
6+ | ★ Vox Populi - with Felix | 20m, 5 | Lenninger Alb | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | |||
5c | ★★ Natalija - with Wile E Coyote | 20m, 10 | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | |||
6 | ★★ Otto Normalverbraucher - with Wile E Coyote | 55m | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Fri 23rd Apr 2021 | |||
Both pitches in one push
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6 | ★★ Ameisenweg Direkt - with Hiltrun Buck | 30m, 7 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Tue 26th Feb 2019 | |||
6 | ★★ Falkenwand - with Hiltrun Buck | 24m, 4 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Mar 2019 | |||
6 | ★★ Die Dicke Ricke - with Hiltrun Buck, robert | 18m | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Tue 17th Sep 2019 | |||
First time directly as the bolts suggest. Left of the second bolt. Easier than expected.
#warmup
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6 | ★★ Audi 80 Gedächtnis Weg - with Hiltrun Buck, Sonnendeck | 12m | Donautal | Average | Mon 5th Jul 2021 | |||
Staying next to the bolts is better than tending to the left. #lastrouteoftheday
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6 | ★★★ Alter Ebinger Turm Weg - with Hiltrun Buck | 120m, 14 | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Tue 27th Aug 2019 | |||
Great route steep and long. Protection sufficient. Except for the 4th pitch everything ascended as #alzheimer-flash. The exit pitch offers a grand finale and historical insights. One climbs past the really fat iron ring which already 1927 daredevils dared a tightrope walk.
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6 | ★★ Dülferverschneidung - with Wile E Coyote | 60m | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Tue 24th Apr 2018 | |||
I have never enjoyed the route as much as today. It was really great. Finding the first belay wasn' that easy because I didn't remember where to go. The 20m start dihedral is really fun. Not to polished. New bolts. Before the modernization one had to climb in the 2nd pitch over a shoulder up to the top of the rock and secure the climber at a tree. Now there is a lower off biner approx. 15m above the last stand. Just below the edge in front of the shoulder. I can only recommend to ignore the lower off, because otherwise you might miss one or two of the most beautiful moves of the route.
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6 |
★★ Preußriss (Preußriss P1)
- with
robert
1
lead by
Me
| 40m | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Sep 2015 | |||
6 | ★★ Bierhenkel - with Melanie | 20m, 5 | Donautal | ★ Good | Tue 25th Aug 2015 | |||
6 | ★★ Halbe Sechse - with Nicky | 20m | Mägdeberg | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Jul 2021 | |||
Great route that requests some gear placement to be safe.
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6 | ★ Nordwand - with Wile E Coyote | 25m | Donautal | ★ Good | Tue 8th May 2018 | |||
Quite hard first 5m but great moves. High first bolt. Upper part is not worth to climb.
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6 | ★★ Via Johanna - with Lamπ[tm] | 20m | Känzele | Sun 9th Jun 2013 | ||||
6 | ★★ Ladyday - with Wile E Coyote, Gege | 15m, 4 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Jul 2020 | |||
Direct start, skipping first bolt.
|
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6 |
★ Zinnenprinzessin P1
- with
Hiltrun Buck, Wile E Coyote
1
6
30m
| 30m, 8 | Donautal | ★ Good | Tue 12th Sep 2023 | |||
Almost not a #warmup
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6 | ★★ Tränen der Freude - with Hiltrun Buck | 15m, 7 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th May 2022 | |||
Always quite a fight.
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5b+ | ★ Quò - with Inga | 10m | Valle del Sarca | Tue 14th Jun 2022 | ||||
6 5 | ★★★ Lolita - with Dieser Lorenz, Wile E Coyote | 10m | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th Aug 2019 | |||
6 |
★★ Verdauungsspaziergang (Verdauungsspaziergang P1)
- with
robert
1
| 60m | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Sep 2015 | |||
5a |
Papá Geppetto (Papá Geppetto P3 Linkup Viaggio A Sud Ovest)
- with
Felix
3
5a
linkup Viaggio A Sud Ovest
, lead by
Me
| 90m | Pinnacolo di Maslana | Fri 18th Sep 2015 | ||||
After we were wrong in 'Il Risveglio' just the last pitch was left. The bolted line is not logical and seams to follow the most difficult parts of the rock. Therefore I climbed it different and much easier.
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5c | Boiacca - with robert | 16m, 9 | Valle del Sarca | Tue 22nd Oct 2013 | ||||
5c | ★ Pedro - with Inga | 25m | Finale Ligure | Mon 31st Aug 2009 | ||||
5c | Dreierweg | 40m, 14 | Alpstein | Sat 20th Aug 2011 | ||||
5c II ~6a | ★ Zig Zag - with Felix | 180m, 12 | Lac d'Annecy | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th May 2024 | |||
Very crowded but astonishing view. Good an comfortable belays.
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6 | ★ Krumme Musik | 15m | Donautal | Fri 9th May 2014 | ||||
6 | ★★ Direkte Ostwand - with Felix | 17m, 5 | Lenninger Alb | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Jul 2022 | |||
Used the anchor of the neighbor route. Missed the last meters. #volltrauf2022
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6 | ★★ Westwändle | 30m | Löwenzähne | Tue 8th Jul 2014 | ||||
6 7- | ★★★ Ruckzuck | 20m, 10 | Donautal | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 3rd Jun 2018 | |||
Just the lower half. Continued on the 'Direkter Eigerturm'
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6 | ★★ Schneepfeiler | 15m | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd Apr 2019 | |||
6 | ★★ Kompaktschuttrisse | 16m, 4 | Lenninger Alb | ★ Good | Fri 10th Sep 2021 | |||
Well, now that I knew which sector I was at climbing was less surprising Onsight
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6 | Ringswandl | 20m | Lenninger Alb | Average | Sun 28th Jun 2015 | |||
Just the short overhang is difficult. Tricky move. With rest. #volltrauf
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6 |
★★ Quetschfix (Riss)
1
6
| 35m, 4 | Donautal | Thu 10th Apr 2014 | ||||
5c | ★ Piccola Chimera | 22m | Nago | ★ Good | Sat 31st May 2014 | |||
5c | ★★★ Frigo - with Clemens, Mareike, Ings | 28m, 9 | Gorges du Chassezac | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Jun 2023 | |||
Wow still at 14:30 in the shade. Great dihedral.
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5c | ★★★ Y'a pas que le foot dans la vie - with Clemens, Mareike, Inga | 15m, 14 | Gorges du Chassezac | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Jun 2023 | |||
6 | ★ Traumtänzer - with Wile E Coyote | 20m, 2 | Mägdeberg | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Sep 2020 | |||
#clipstick + 2 Keile. Ich könnte mich immer wieder über die verbohrten Erschliesser aufregen. Die 5m bis zum ersten BH kann man nicht absichern, aber auf den letzten 5m hat es jede Menge Möglichkeiten. Dort sitzt der zweite BH. Die haben echt ne Vollklatsche.
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6 | ★★ Holterdiepolter (To be named) - with Wile E Coyote | 15m | Donautal | Fri 11th Jun 2021 | ||||
6 6+ | ★★ Kleine Kante | 25m | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Jun 2013 | |||
18 | ★★ Endless Blowjob | 20m, 12 | Waterval Boven | ★ Good | Tue 4th Feb 2014 | |||
6 | Überhang | 12m, 3 | Donautal | Tue 17th Jun 2014 | ||||
6 | Innere Kante - with Felix | 25m | Lenninger Alb | Sat 3rd Jul 2010 | ||||
6 | ★ Vierhauser - with robert | 80m | Walgau | Sun 17th Jun 2012 | ||||
6 |
★★ Ameisenweg (Ameisenweg Linkup Ameisenweg Direkt)
- with
Wile E Coyote
1
linkup Ameisenweg Direkt
| 40m, 10 | Donautal | ★★★ Classic | Tue 15th Jul 2014 | |||
6 |
★★ Via Lochus
- with
Felix
1
6
2
5+
| 40m, 8 | Donautal | ★★ Very Good | Sun 22nd Jun 2014 | |||
The first pitch is harder than 5
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6 | Was bin Ich - with Wile E Coyote | 15m | Koblach | Don't Bother | Mon 28th Dec 2015 | |||
5c | ★ Cip | 10m | Valle del Sarca | Tue 11th Jun 2019 | ||||
6 | ★★ Direkter Mohikaner - with Erik | 20m, 5 | Donautal | ★ Good | Thu 17th Jul 2014 | |||
With packback
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6 | ★ Patentante - with robert | 20m, 4 | Donautal | ★ Good | Tue 24th Sep 2019 | |||
6 |
Bröselmaier
- with
Wile E Coyote
1
4
2
6
| 40m | Donautal | Sat 9th May 2020 | ||||
Wow how exhausting. Doing first pitches in one push was a bad idea. Rope drag was a pain in the ass (two half ropes). Nice laybacks but a little bit too much for the first rock day 2020.
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5c | ★★ Didentroedifuori - with Inga | 20m | La Sfinge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 28th May 2015 | |||
Chimney with overhanging crux.
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5b+ 5c | ★★ Que bonitas son mis ninas | 15m | Tenerife | Tue 21st May 2013 | ||||
5c | ★★ Sti'ani - with Inga | 25m | Molveno S. Antonio | ★★★ Classic | Mon 2nd Jun 2014 | |||
Very nice but I was scared at second/third bolt and locked my self in the crack.
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5c |
La Centrale P1
- with
Wile E Coyote, Sonnendeck
1
| 35m, 15 | Les Pérouses | Average | Mon 20th May 2024 | |||
The crux move was quite hard for me. Pulling right on a small side-pull-crimp, getting the left foot into a small crimp (swapping with the hand), standing up, supported by a mono pocket and finally a dyno somehow to the big waterhole jug. Great relief to stick that move. Would have been quite a whiper I guess.
Did not continue into the second pitch because I was not motivated enough. |