Ascents by Kai having Distinct route

#volltrauf2022

Don't know if I climbed it as Jakob designed it. Felt easier than 6b. Perfectly protected. I enjoyed it very much.

At the fifth bolt it's hard to stay in the route because there is a huge jug to the left. Any way could clip, so I assume I made it.

Läuft, was ne Fels fahrt.

Wow, almost failed because I messed up the feet. Left lots of power but did it.

Na endlich ist diese Route auch abgehakt - was ein Kampf. Juhu.

Yes, finally nailed it.

What a bummer. I missed the great side hold on the crux of the 3rd pitch and then fucked up. But the route is awesome. Arete climbing at a lofty height.

Toprope is fun, lead is scares the hell out of me.

Tear down

To bad that I took a fall while seconding the beautiful crux section of that route. Now I know where the best holds are. Missed a very good pocket while being pumped at the end of the overhang. Damn. Next time redpoint. Credits to Alexander Oppe who pulled both pitches in one go and won the fight against rope drag.

Next time I will exit the route to the rock head and descent via the gully. There is no lower-off anchor at the end of the last pitch so we used the last glue-in-bolt to lower me off all of the 60m. No redundancy scared me quite a bit.

#volltrauf2022

Erster Versuch nach 4 Jahren. Damals war ich mir nicht sicher ob es die richtige Route war (Panico Topo ist einfach nicht gut). Nur einmal reingesessen zum Klippen nach dem Überhang. Stand bescheiden und hatte Angst vor dem Sturz. Schade, hätte auch klappen können.

Einmal weggerutscht und einmal reingesessen.

Completely got disturbed by all the tick marks and tried it the wrong way. Using the not so obvious crimp right of the line, it was easy to pull through the first overhang. Because of a new route to the left it feels like cheating doing it that way. But hey as long one can clip I don't care. Not my fault that the lines to near to each other. Not sure ifit is easier than 'Fingertrauma'.

Not sure if I really climbed that one.

Failed to onsight it because I missed the best hold of the route at in the overhanging section

#lastrouteoftheday

First moves are really hard. The following edge tricked me. Don't try to reach it.

Never climbed anything steep like this! I guess the first 10 meter hang over for 1 or 2 meter.

Would not have been necessary to hang dog but I lack confidence in my abilities.

Again failed to onsight because I didn't find the good holds.

Starts left of the east pillar and moves next to its dihedral through vertical terrain. At the 5th bolt, turn left into the big dihedral to the south-east pillar. Here there is an old, rotten loop where you could make a belaystation to reduce the rope friction in the 2nd part of the route. But be careful, one of the blocks is loose. Afterwards the route continues steep and with holes for a few metres until the holds become less and you climb along the edge to the last belaystation of the normal route.At the end it even becomes slightly overhanging.

For me it didn't really work out. 1st crux right at the 3rd bolt. There is a good 2-finger hole for the left hand, but only a (too) small crimp for the right and I could only step on a jib on the right, which is also not optimal. I see 2 solutions: a long pull to the right to a very good hold or a long pull up to a trailer.I tried the latter option but then you are very stretched and lose mobility. To make matters worse, there were no steps for me on the left. I then went around the place via the east pillar. Then it was relaxed on super rock, through the gully over to the 2nd crux. Then the rain came. At first it only drizzled lightly and in the lee of the rock it was still easy to climb. The drizzle was relaxing. But I didn't dwell too long on the 2nd crux and passed it on the left and I also had to leave out the final overhang, as I had clipped it wrong when abseiling. At the summit I could put on my rain jacket and then there was no stopping the rain. It was raining cats and dogs.

Inga had the guide book and I thought it would be 'Tufolandia'. Now it's clear why it felt harder than a 6a.

Sharp rock. Good water.

Ich glaube ja auch das eher ne 7 ist. Technik und Kraft ist angesagt. Gefühlt sogar schwieriger als 'Tita Piaz'.

Tja, kurz vorm Umlenker ging mir dann doch noch der Strom aus und das Unwetter hatte uns auch erreicht. Also abgebaut und in die Höhle verzogen.

No idea how to reach the last bolts.

Wow, very crimpy pull through the overhang. I saw the saving hold, but couldn't reach it and bailed after some tries.

It's a long route and starts with an incredible overhang. 3 bolts before the lower off I missed one quick draw and feared a fall. To avoid that I retreated.

What a shame. Too hard for me. Even using top-rope. I guess that's the tribute you pay for a little training.

Very painful holds AT the start.

Didn't find the solution to the technical part.