Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 27th Apr 2024 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Walls of 2000 | ||||||
15 | Pinch me I'm dreaming | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Midway | 12m | Average | |||
15 | ★ Shanes 3 | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The top is definitely harder than 15, could easily be 18
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13 | ★ Shanes 2 | 11m | Average | |||
Rpt, the mantle at top was tenuous with only one hand
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16 | ★ Spider Lair | 10m | Average | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Plain Dumb | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
15 | ★★ HS | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
2 laps. 55 days off rock, wrist brace on. Skin hurts, wrist seemed to survive, just avoided mantles.
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19 | ★★ Phoenix | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Felt a bit pumped, not surprising I suppose
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15 | ★ Stingray | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
2 laps
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20 | ★ B | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt, good friction today.
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs White Stack | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mithras | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. My wrist is getting worse rather than better, could barely undercling or jam and it hurt abseiling-off to the physio.
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Fri 1st Mar 2024 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag The Balconies | ||||||
18 ~19 | Jack Horner — 2 attempts | 6m, 4 | ||||
Couldn’t clip anchors. Had to do an inverted kneebar second go- Dave just reached past and had no problem.
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19 | ★ Tarzan | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The moves were ok, but fall potential left me nervous. Quite hard.
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Tue 27th Feb 2024 - Cathedral Rock | ||||||
19 | ★★★ With The Angels - with David Gray, jonty | 43m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Found the move off belay at start the hardest en route ( short arms). Second pitch just lovely. Led P2 and 3…..
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Mon 26th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Lost World Area Lost World | ||||||
23 | Naked Flame | 18m | ★ Good | |||
We came down to consider rebolting with anchors-feels sandbagged at 23 without bridging across chimney. Came to no decision. Weirdly it was chalked up
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Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Resurrection Shuffle | 30m | ★ Good | |||
The first half was fine, but a crack that stays wide blue for ever in the second half is my anti style and I’m not that interested in embracing the pain.
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Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Fruehauf | ||||||
20 | ★ General Discipline — 2 attempts | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Amazed I Onsighted this, so slippery today
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22 | ★ General Benefit — 2 attempts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Hard. Forgot helmet, didn’t feel like leading these spaced bolted climbs.
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Smokin' | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Saw the anchors on way down and did a quick TR lap. Would feel stout placing gear, quite bouldery.
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22 |
★★★ Heat Pump
1
Good climbing in its own right
2
Spent ages in the middle shaking out and working out what to do. A few big reaches/ dead points in the first half sapped my energy | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 20th Feb 2024 - Fruehauf | ||||||
21 | ★ Plastic Erection | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, feels more 22 if short.
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21 | ★ Plastic Extras | 18m | Average | |||
Rpt, seems easier than last year on the mantles
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17 | ★ Bedside Manners are Extra | 18m | Average | |||
Rpt, changes every year
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
20 ~21 | Alpine Style | 22m, 8 | Average | |||
Pretty crappy climbing up to a hard and interesting crux sequence. Harder than any move on influenza. Not sure it’s worth the effort, but it filled in the afternoon.
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Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Influenza | 28m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Some nice moves once in the stemming groove. The 9 th or 10th bolt’s nut was quite loose. I finger tightened it, worth bringing a spanner
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19 | ★★ Princess | 25m, 12 | Average | |||
Rpt, warm up
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Hazards Cliffs Hazards Main Wall (Low Starting Point) | ||||||
16 | ★★ Pneisses | 240m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Microtraxioned my way up as the third wheel. Nice enough day out.
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Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Harlequin | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rpt.
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22 | ★★★ Beaman's Route Direct | 25m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.
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Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Pension Day | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting enough, found it as tough as the other two, though may have been just reacquainting myself with the Pipes dolerite
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21 | ★ Game On | 28m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Intricate crux at about third height for me that was quite enjoyable. A bit stop/ start from half height
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22 | ★★ Boys Games — 2 attempts | 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Didn’t find this any harder than the 2 routes to the right ( though did a silly slip below crux).
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Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
19 | Black Lab | ★ Good | ||||
Not too bad for a late addition, though top a bit contrived and friable
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21 | ★★ Guide Dog | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting lower section
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24 | ★ Jumping Jack Russells | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Did top section clean from below roof, but rained off after this.
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Fri 19th Jan 2024 - The You Yangs | ||||||
Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Blue Sky Thinking — 2 attempts | 25m, 4 | Average | |||
Ouch, rather sharp. These climbs were west facing but fortunately an overcast day. So nice not to be in a plus 20 dew point for a change!
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16 | ★ Blue Skies From Grey | 18m, 2 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Can't Buy a Thrill | 16m, 2 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Asylum for the Insane | 22m, 3 | Average | |||
A quick diversion while waiting for the ferry
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Waterfall Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Super Nintendo Chalmers | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. The little pockets were very slimy today. 2 laps.
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18 | ★★ Peeking Possum | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Nice flash by Flynn for his Duke of Ed
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18 | ★ Ferns and Fings | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★ Roo Fing | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt. Very dirty
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17 | ★ Moss Monster | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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16 | ★ Fried Lichen | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
15 | ★ Wide Horizon | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Original ascent solo, rpt today
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13 | ★ Ichi Knee | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
Original ascent was solo, weirdly coming up as red point. Rpt today
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17 | ★ Cliff Limit | 11m | Average | |||
Rpt.
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19 | ★ Vertical Hanger | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 ~19 | ★ Hop | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt. Still feels hard for grade, height dependent for sure
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19 | ★ Wetting The Wick | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
Fingal Gym Bouldering | ||||||
V3 | Polar Plunge | 3m | ||||
A grade or two harder if you don’t have the reach off the foot pocket to the flake up high. About 20 attempts!
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V2 | ★★ Werewolves not Swearwolves | 3m | ||||
V2 | Arctic Fox | 3m | ||||
Bonus crux move for the short and a long dead point.
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V1 | ★ Von Dorna Schmarten Scheden | 3m | ||||
Sit start for more moves
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V1 | ★ Crepe Paper | 3m | ||||
Done many of these about 15 years ago when bouldering was just training….but nice spot on a summers afternoon
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Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Upper | ||||||
19 | ★★ Semi Retirement | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, exit.
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21 | ★★★ Fin Crack — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
My hand greased off one hold and unexpectedly slipped. Got back on and went through. The mantle up the top is seeming tougher than before.
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23 | ★★ Moby Dick | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to redeem myself for the slip on Fin crack
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Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Dolphin Walls Lower | ||||||
19 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★★ Cadbury Flake | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★★ Houdini | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The good weather day between the rain. Suffering from post vax aches and pains, but better than laying on the couch.
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Tue 19th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
A couple more goes, feeling a lot better on the lower section and sorted the finish but still missing a solution to the crux as Daves bridge solution leaves me too low.
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Tue 19th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Fern Gully | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Jurassic Park | 31m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hopefully the predicted rain will settle the dust. Really great and varied moves and steeper than it looks. One go on TR to brush the holds then sent with a bit of power grunting and wobbling before we had to leave.
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Still baffled by a 2 m section. Getting some linkage. I think we need to work on presses.
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16 | ★★ Flake | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★★ Telapia | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Quite a tricky one
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Fri 15th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
Roof pro- closed | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
finally back on this after a long time, not through want of trying. Quite greasy conditions today. Dave making much better progress
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Thu 14th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Snuggles and the Dragon | 30m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.
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17 | ★ The exslovenian | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. I keep thinking a clean up of this route is needed. Nice traddish climbing on bolts, a couple of finger size cams can also be used.
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Wed 13th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Careless Fingernicker — 2 attempts | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, needed a bit of a brush. Left hand crack glove/ tape useful for me. Unfortunately I had brought 2 right hand gloves ( duh!)
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18 | ★★ Capricious | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. The moves on this route are great, if only it remained a bit cleaner. Rock improves a lot after 8 m. Calf pump!
The vegetation up high doesn’t interfere with route.
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Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
19 | ★ Vertical Hanger | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
I think we did this as a TR problem in the past. Awkward but interesting start
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18 ~19 | ★ Hop | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Tricky start keeping left of arete. Stupid finish.
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19 | ★ Wetting The Wick | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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17 | ★ Little Frog | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★★ All Ass | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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22 | ★ Go Go Gadget | 18m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Shares a lot of holds with route to right
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19 | ★ Three Amigo's | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★ Builder's Cleavage | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★ Side Pull Bob | 14m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Palm Sunday | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, alzheimers os, the slimpers felt pretty slimy today
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20 | ★★ Tomorrow's Villians | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
17 | ★★ Yesterday's Heroes | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. A bit sandy, gave it a brush.
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Bullet Hole Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Mental Fatigue | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Unfortunately now crossed by another route.
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21 | ★★ Mental Fatigue Direct Start | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Time to bail, getting increasingly hot and slippery. Greased off where it joins the regular route
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19 | ★★ Boris | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
It’s a squeeze but didn’t feel too contrived
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18 | ★ Fox Sox Pox | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt.
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Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Pimple Buttress | ||||||
11 | ★ ThreeSandShoes | 5m, 2 | ||||
Surprised to see a standard solo for many years now with bolts
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15 | ★ Taylor Made | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★ Look Blue Go Purple | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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17 ~19 | ★ Abe Simpson | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I have this ticked as a solo, but I think that was Plum Duff. This is almost a retrobolt of Pimple and of similar difficulty
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13 ~8 | WallowWall | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Another questionable route
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3 ~1 | ★★ Abseil Slab | 12m, 2 | Crap | |||
Seriously, I walked down this with no hands and the dog ran up it. Needs to disappear.
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Mon 4th Dec 2023 - Chapman's Hill | ||||||
Sunnyvale | ||||||
Pamela | 3m | |||||
Need to do more sit ups. Good practice for something. Best not to have a dog laying on mat below you
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Mon 4th Dec 2023 - Chapman's Hill | ||||||
West wall | ||||||
V2 | ★ Rocket fuel | 4m | ★ Good | |||
May be easier for tall, but if short feet have to come up high in the undercut to be able to throw to ledge. May well have been done before and not written up. Feel free to rename if this is the case.
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V4 | ★★★ Satyr IX | |||||
The sit start definitely adds a grade
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V3 | ★★ Saturnine | 4m | ★ Good | |||
It’s nice and clean now
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V3 | ★ L’Esfinge | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Nice balance feet and tiny holds
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Mon 27th Nov 2023 - Chapman's Hill | ||||||
Pride Rock | ||||||
V2 | Long Live the King Left exit | 3m | ||||
Seems the obvious line for the non boulderer definitely not V3 or 4.
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