Routes in Asia for selected grade

Start as for EK and keep going above ledge. Overhanging sustained and exposed.

Take off on the jug, and then the feature that was useful to make moves further broke.

Project.

Starts along a ledge of a crack traversing left, and then the project crux for about six-eight feet of connecting to the upper section, over the roof.

Seems possible to protect with pitons in the upper thin crack. The lower diagonal crack can be protected with hand and smaller cams. Cams only! Or Tricams, maybe.

A finger and hand crack that runs horizontally to the right and then connects through a series of horizontal cracks to the top

Easy to protect, stiff climb

Aided my way up and then attempted to project

Exit: Mid-way through to the right (east), a tree allows you to rap off back to the base. Tree on the west face as well.

Rack: Doubles of #.3 through #.75 and nuts of similar size or below. Preferably off sets.

Anchor: Cracks and tree (Halfway up to the right)

Natural Anchor: Tree

Stiff crimpy first 20 feet and then couple of cuxy sections to the top out.

Rachit Singhvi figured out the moves.

Same top-anchor as Angulimala***

Via the right-side crack, past the crack, the rock has potential for a stiff line.

With the last piece of protection in the crack below.

Top Anchor: Small cams to tricams.

The boulder evidently attempted to be quarried provides for a crack, that runs diagonally. The crack is formed by the outer rock overlapping the inner boulder , starts as a finger crack and widens to fist and half size towards the top.

Mildly overhanging and lacking in footholds, the crack eases up only after the crack turns vertical, and flares wider to allow some foot jams.

Rack: Finger sized cams all the way upto #4 BD Cam-sized pieces.

Top Anchor: Cracks that allow finger sized and hand-sized gear. Best to use tricams to avoid the cams getting bent.

Opened by Lopsang Thisring, Kamalesh & other members of 'The Climbers' in 1987 during IMF All India Camp.

Since the first ascent by Nifa Venkatesh, when the route was rated at 5.10D, multiple holds have broken off, making the climb harder subsequently.

Last reported grade seems to indicate that it had inched beyond 5.11d+. After the first 15 feet or so, the route is 5.6-7ish. First bolt is accessible with a clip stick.

First pitch is 15 odd meters, and then two long pitches each.

Most folks stick-clip the first bolt, aid it and continue the climb. Route credit, Nifa and Dini. Mid-2014.

Left of Louvre, apparently, a stiffer 5.11ish route that was climbed as a top rope route from the tree that marks the end of the Louvre first pitch.

Philip Coquard & Dominic Danard.(1989)

East facing high ball, towards the eastern side of Turahalli. As you go up the trail from the north, the moment you see the electric poles. Head down or to the east. If you have hiked upto the temple, you have come too far up.

In 2013/14, four bolts were placed on top of this high ball. Attempts were made to chop off and destroy the bolts. Two are still usable. You could use this to top rope, or lead using #4, #5 & #6 pieces. The top section is too wide for #6. So mild run out.

Was sent on lead, as recently as in 2017 by Aravind Selvam. Earlier free ascents were done by wedging chock stones inside the crack.

FFA: Saurabh C.

FFA: Shwetank Kumar

Offwidth

An epic lead by Amrit Appadan supposed by Iniyan Sivaneri bumping up #5 and #6 for a fair distance.

I think its dangerous. Really loose rock.

1p (5.12b|25m) 2p (A0|20m) 3p (A0|25m) 5p (5.10d|30m) 6p (5.10c|25m) 7p (5.9|20m)

“始祖巨人”延长段。先是一段裂缝然后翻包（该段线路的单步难点），之后是一段运动到顶，裂缝宽度是能胀手但不能胀拳的程度，倒数第二把挂片比较偏离其余挂片连线，建议挂了倒数第一把挂片之后回来解掉然后挂顶，不然抽绳很累。

Offwidth crack

The crack starts to the right on the south facing wall, as a hand crack, traverses left and opens up into the crux off-width. Past the offwidth, further short traverse to the left as hand crack and then along a flake and then the heady but easy top- out.

Rack: Upto #4, or #5 (optional).

Anchor: Crack (Finger and hand cracks)

Natural Anchor: Boulder and tree. Long anchor.

FKA, Sohan with support from Amrit Appaden and Karthik Maddineni, Feb 2021

Multi Pitch Climb

Translates as "Life theater"

A now rarely climbed route because the bolts are in a desperate state. Start up Slab (8 kyū) then traverse the ledge to the left arête. Climb direct from the undercling to the top.

沼泽的延长线，和月亮的尖叫第二段共顶。

Good rock, long line. Has anchors

Great rock, has anchors

This line is very gritty and covered with moss and scale, this line will need a fair bit of cleaning before it can be lead again. It looks like a good line and would be worth cleaning up, definitely looks like a one or two star climb.

One of the most impressive climbs at Mizugaki. A true classic and a real test piece for the grade.

与 '蜘蛛侠' 共享起步和结束，走右边。线路非常短，用的塞子很少，FFA完成时，有run out的部分，但耐心放塞子，有可能可以避免

Gear Advice: .2–.4, .75, 2, double .3

P1: 14m

P2: ~20m

P3: 31m

自设保护站，从东邪线路下降。 装备建议：#.4-5,#3X3。

1. anchor=2bolts

2. anchor=2bolts

the route is in the cave right next to the BBQ restaurant. Swim to the other side of the pool, climb out on the opposite side to the route on the ledge. Step across to the wall and Deep Water Solo traverse left. follow tufas to the big tree at the ledge. There are around 4 good threads for slings to the top. the climbing is runout and potentially dangerous and the rock is dirty. inspecting this route on rappel and checking the water depth is highly recommended.

Start approx 5 meters to the right of Prelude.

The final top section of the climb was linked and the FFA made by James Frith on 14th October 2013. The protection is good but the final crux section of the route is unprotected and run-out, which can be very daunting. A helmet is considered a good option. This is a must do line for all budding Mizugaki-Yama Crack Gurus.

Same start as Quarry Story.

Mix线路。两条缝串一起爬，下半段很细。机械塞：C4 .3-2, C3 1, ballnuts 2。

Video. First graded È5 6a.

Share start with '望而生畏' , via a tiny roof, vertical finger crack, and back slash flack, join to 'Read Option' chimney, share anchor with 'Read Option'. Gear advice: #.2-#5, 2x#.4-#2, 4x#.75, 5x alpine draw, 5x 120cm sling, 2x60m rope.

Use 2set Cam and 3 quickdraw

Traverse to the left, then from the ledge, through the finger crack in the center.

The blue line traversing right is an easier variation.

FFA: Aravind Selvam, 2019

Gear 00 to 1 TCU, doubles 00 to 1, camalot .3 to 3, dou- ble .3 to 1, slings. Bolt anchors. Abseil from the top of the pillar down the Wind of the North. A very nice corner route.

Pitch 1: A0/class 5 Gear slings. Bolt/ Traditional anchor. Scramble up the gully on the left and traverse the ledge right to the white hand line. Clip the loops for protection.

Pitch 2: Gear 00-1 TCU, doubles 00- 1, camalot .3 to 3, double .3 to 1, triple .75. Bolt anchor. Strenuous move leads to a section of aid, followed by a nice finger crack. 35m pitch.

Pitch 3: 5.9+ Gear .5 to 3, double .75 to 1. Bolt anchor. A thinner hand crack. 10 meter pitch.

Pitch 4: 5.10a Gear camalot 2 to 4, double 3. Bolt anchor. Top out the pillar and enjoy the view. There‟s the option to continue on pitch 5 of Wind of the North from here or abseil down Wind of the North.

The thin finger crack bang in the middle of the area. It's a bit left to the small cave.

Start is bouldery with overhung ring locks and you get to a decent rest after the first 15 feet. Then the route continues up a finger crack which turns into a seam.

Traverse right from the first horizontal break and get up the thin hand crack to finish.

FFA: Aravind Selvam, Mar 2019

Hard sections well bolted. Unknown if aid section is hammerless.

For the first 8 meters there is an offwidth that swallows two #5 and one #6 camalots. The crack then narrows and disappears, leaving you in a corner with a couple of pockets for cams. To get down, rappel from a big block on a ledge or climb a 3-meter step and walk down on foot.

Gear advice: #.2-#3,#.4
x2; alpine draw x4, 120cm sling x2; Abseiling from tree on top.