Routes in Australia for selected grade

A non existent route.

Some think it might be 30..

"A fun day out"

1. 31 As for Teflon

2. 24

3. 28

4. 29

5. 27

Australia's hardest pure jam crack. Purportedly quite exciting with proper hard moves above a ledge and limited chances to stop and place gear. One for the smaller handed folk.

Gorgeous and impossible looking line. Absolute world-class classic. Batman on fix rope to start DUB anchor. Stout start at finger lock in horizontal break below anchor, progress steep terrain on pinkie locks, flairy hand jam, pinch, etc to double crimp. Enter wild crux through 60deg overhang with four consecutive finger locks, crimp, pocket, small dynos, etc to uncomfortable rest in break. From there it's easy gr26 but so good to under roof. Climb easy but very exposed roof to tricky exit gr23. Walk off with a smile. Cleaning is best by climbing it again to DUB anchor under roof, clean roof and lower from anchor clean gear to start anchor.

Please be careful with cams, although the rock is solid enough and immaculate for fingers , cams could damage this gem particularly in the crux section. Don't use cams in the finger locks, protect crux in crack above crimps and run it out. Protection is great in smaller sizes where fingers wont fit.

Start at tree right of corner, using pocket then straight up to roof and traverse left under roof and up shallow corner to ledge. Technical corner work then follow line to crux moves at very top . . . 'Cull The Sac' variant. Climb past roof and up to ledge at half-height ~23. Sling-horn to lower, then flick it off to retrieve.

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter!

Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.

1. 35m (31) Hard moves take you R through the roof 10m R of 'Pegasus' to crux into bottomless corner. On up corner to belay.

2. 27m (-) Easy ground.

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads / Red Vinyl

Start as for Red Vinyl then link into Breathing Gasoline after about 9m. This eliminates the rest on Breathing Gasoline, making this route rather more sustained! For the record, on 26/4/09, not really knowing what went where, Mike Patz sent a similar link-up at the same sort of grade, this time starting up the first few bolts of Nomads then finishing up Breathing Gasoline.

A whole new route without a single extra bolt!

Start as for Red Vinyl.

Extends Red Vinyl to the lip. No more bolts, although it does now have it's own anchor. Make sure you clip the last bolt on Red Vinyl then drop back down right, up, then back left to the crux. You need an alert belayer once you're out near the lip.

Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site.

HB had previously dabbled in this vicinity while searching for a second pitch for Mirage, but after he declared the second pitch groove "impossible" nobody bothered with it for years. Luckily no one told Stuart, who sauntered in and snared one of Taipan's very best. Unfortunately the first pitch is ridiculously cruxy, so most people rap in to do pitch 2 only. Start as for Sirocco.

1. 35m (31) Follow Mirage for 18m to gain the hanging slab atop the steep white corner. Now doddle up L (ha ha) past bolts to the start of the groove, and more easily to hanging belay at chain (30m rap).

2. 25m (28) Amazing climbing up the line of shallow water scoops in incredible red stone, 7FHs to chain (25m to 1st belay, 55m to ground).

Given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

An amazing effort by a relatively unsung local.

This completely natural (read, "not chipped or glued" like its famous sibling) has some genuinely difficult (as if the grade weren't required to confirm it already) slabby traversing early on before pulling into Punks, climbing it for a few metres before escaping out R to the arete.

Start beneath the R-leading arch, a few metres up L of PitG.

The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wyithe) repeated it!

Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber.

Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32.

Start as for Punks in the Gunks. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to chains at the top.

Mayan

Start R of Trojan below boulder. Up and traverse R and up. Direct start (bolted by Carrigan decades ago) remains unclimbed.

It doesnt get much thinner than this. the direct line up the blankish slab 5m left of Celluloid Heroes. The grade is height dependent.

The bolted seam R of Melodrama and L of Be There or Be Square, to chains.

Pat Turner's unrepeated line up the main Amphitheatre overhang.

Controversy, broken holds and a grade that would make this one of the hardest climbs in WA have meant this climb is more often talked about than climbed on.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/long-standing-trad-project-ticked/

A fantastic natural line that was one of the 'last great lines' in the Grampians until Lee Cossey put a few days work into it and freed it in November 2015.

Start: On the right wall of the gully, about 15m L of 'Neptune' pitch 2, is this striking overhung curving corner/crack. Up tips finger crack to crux move from crimpy pinch to big huecos above the sickle, monkey right into the crack (drop the rope back to the belayer - or use double rope technique - to avoid heinous drag) and blast upwards to glory.

First ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCljblIsMYk

Links the crux of Pooferator into the crux of Equaliser. Roman (starts at 12:35)

Starts as per PFOD then joins CL for a couple of bolts. Takes traverse line a few meters south of CL to same anchor

Classic testpiece with superb hard climbing. Start 6m R of TWoAF. A bolt plate is handy to prevent rope burn if you miss the start dyno. Jump start leads to hard moves through the roof. Prep your belayer and/or use a roller biner, hard catches off the roof crux end badly. Move R at the lip of the roof into much pumpiness beyond. A broken hold at the 3rd bolt has been rectified.

The line out the middle of the big red cave. Three sections with increasing difficulties separated by good rests. Rock quality is second to none at the top. Glory jugging up final corner to double U bolt belay.

Climb Shining Path take the rest then launch into Filipino all the way to the final chains.

Rad rad route, up some of the best rock around. Quality bouldering with jugs to seperate the difficulties, and a sustained finish. A great toilet bowl feature, batman or climb the mud to the first bolt.

Far left hand route.

Hard man power endurance up a fantastic line. Stay out of the corner.

Stand start from the end of Madball and follow the bolts to the chains. Good movement all the way. One of the hardest outdoor (as opposed to the Hole) routes in the State.

Start 5m R of Bloodline. Phenomenal. It's the route with the obvious double pockets above the roof. 32 in the latest guide; but consensus seems to be about 31.

Small flakes up the consistently overhanging wall. Looks about grade 1 million ! Closed Project until 2023

Monique Forestier's 2003 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 32.

Bouldery and gymnastic with an engaging thought provoking finish. Needs a very alert belayer on the start moves as the too-low 1st bolt barely keeps you off the deck if the start holds are wet and you spooge off the (otherwise easy) move.

Start up Middle Path, where Middle Path joins Path of Yin continue traversing right into steepness. Do the big dyno and then traverse further right into Eye of the Tiger and finish as per it's anchors.

Start as for Parasite past the crux the head left through El Maco to finish up the crux of Frosty.

Monique's ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 31.

Up Thriller till the second last bolt and then step right into friction addictions hard ending. Super pumpy classic.

Start at prow through ferns. Up steep, right trending climbing to ledge (27 to here). Then blast out big holds and big moves in roof to a jumpy crux at lip (careful with belay). Then climb to top of the cliff.

A shameless linkup but worthy none the less! Start up middle path and continue as per the flying duck. Do the crux dyno of the duck and then immediately head left into a rest before finishing at the path of yin anchors.

As for Piggy Pikelet, at crescent continue straight to under arch feature. At height of PP anchor traverse 2m right to finish. Tom

The hardest open project in the Gorge and possibly the hardest line in the gorge if it goes. Takes the blank left face and sharp arete to DBB

Amazing line. 2nd from right

Extension of "Sexy is the Word".

Start: Start 4m R of JC. Powerful, bouldery with a few tricks to be found

Come Out Fighting extension. "Climb to the glued on ear hold then head right to the circus street chain, then all the way out to the end!"

Start-up Gladiator, after the crux, climb leftwards on to Taking Care of Business variation, at last jug enjoy a hard low traverse left into the crimpy ending Friction Addiction. This route is fantastic with a great mix of climbing and is a classic link-up well worth doing.

Start as for Microwave, head steadily left across Point Break and Tugboat and finish as for Tsunami (not Tugboat). Monique

Un-climbed open project. FH on the main face lead the way up a slightly over hanging, blank looking face, following a faint seam feature. No DBB.

Powerful thin climbing through the bulges

Townsville's first 5.14! The king reigns supreme.

Don't concentrate on the anchor's or you will miss all the heavenly glory. Only a fool spends his time attempting to see into the future rather than see into the present.

dodgy dnya bolt, dont clip this!!! clip the fat ring bolt to the right!!

Start: start 4 meters left of beaten bullied and buggered

Start up Mac Daddy, finishing at Big Trouble in Little Italy chains Start up Mac Daddy heading diagonally right and up at the 3rd bolt thru some very thin holds and up Big Trouble to finish.

Mega extension of 'Event Horizon'. After the last draw of 'Event Horizon' head right across cheese blocks and then continue right and then up the compact head wall.

Climb TFVOM to the off width of RP then blast straight back right into a thin pebble belt. Next is a huge dyno then some blankness going right. At this point it could keep going towards pebble or straight up to anchor right of RP. Hard to know at this point. Bloody hard

Start up the bolts to the right of Reverse Psychology. Linking into RP after the 4th bolt following thin seam. Hard!!!

Relatively easy climbing to a desperate boulder problem crux (~V9). Most of the recent ascentionists use a different (easier) crux sequence to the original ascentionists and the grade might be coming down soon.

A mix of technical edges, burly foot free campusing, a sideways dyno, slopey traverse to a final pounce.

a rad gymnastic route, marred by some dodgy glueing. 2 boulder problems inbetween jugs.

Start: 15 meters right of mr september.

Short and hard Lower off from fourth (fifth ?) bolt, at ramp ledge last two bolts aren't worth it and will be removed eventually.

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

A long link-up worthy of mention as it covers some amazing country. Start up Dude Food, to go through Vogue and up Church Of Christ to anchors. Head right across Turn Your Eyes Insane to finish up Hopelessly Devoted To You anchors.

Start up WBTM, traverse right into "Strike of the Silver Fox" then continue right through roof for a few more meters before turning the lip and finishing up head wall.

The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian.

Daniel Fisher

Rose Weller

Stugang Extension to Circus Street chain ie Snack Related Mishap into Nirvanoxyne.

Start: As for Stugang.

Up seamstress for a few bolts then break right and on through rooves and head wall.

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project'. Start up Thriller boulder, but instead of cutting left into Evil at the ledge, head right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging 'Gigolo'.

Start: Start as for 'The Floating Cloud'

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging Gigolo.

Start up The Floating Cloud then move left into Aging Gigolo.

International passport to the cave entrance. The most direct line in the Hole.

The original line. From Meet The G anchors, climb around rooflet onto upper face to high anchor.

One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries!

3m L of TS. This boulder problem on a rope climbs through the distinctive hole in the roof before getting to grips with some very small holds. Very hard to grade as the key move is a long reach - span will affect difficulty. Climbed with first two bolts clipped and no cairn - the start move is part of the route.

Stugang Extension into the finish of 'Wormhole'.

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

Start as for Frosty and at 3rd bolt move leftwards towards the small cave directly under the roof, blast directly through roof.

Very bouldery crux section involving a long series of painful pockets.

Start: Ringbolted route 3m right of 'Chinese Water Torture'. Establish in 2001, an ascent by German hardman Andy Hofman grade 8a - 8c as not sure on Aussie grades! Recent ascentionists suggest 32 after repeated attemps by some very strong climbers.

Few meters right of Gravel Rash. Up steep scoop to base of roof. Bouldery through roof then head right to Assassins/Hashish final boulder. Bolted by Zac Vertrees. Ben Cossey has temp bolts going direct out the roof. Stay off them, they will not hold a climbing fall.

The original start to Desperado!

Start up Terminus for 4 bolts then head left and grab the Dinglebop then reach up and put your fingers into the Krumbo. Once through the boulder chalk up with a bunch of Shleem as you are now on Desperado and still have a fair bit of climbing to go. Now power all the way to the top making sure to find the rests as your Fleeb juice will be pumping! Continue to the anchors and be a master of the Plumbus.

Start with the boulder problem of Evil. After the hard clip go left across a series of bulges. After some intricate betas and a few kneebars, you link into Esoteric Agenda under the top crux. Finish as per EA.

Epic power endurance test piece. One of the purest pieces of climbing in QLD for chur.

Start up Veteran's, into Onions, through Mudeye and finish up Don't Believe. A very similar link is Hyper (30), which skips the Mudeye pocket move by traversing R beneath it to the base of the flake on Don't Believe. Yet another similar link is Bunions (softish 29), which starts up Veteran's, joins Onions at its 4th bolt and finishes up Onions Extension.

Parasite into the finish of El Maco via the cool 'la rose' move. Sustained.

One for the Kneebarers, starts a few metres left of Cheese Gobbler up via a couple powerful moves and cruxy kneebar into the quality roof and head wall.

Bit of a debate about the grade, seems 32/33!! Start as for Frosty, at the major break where frosty continues upwards, veer left via some awesome bouldery moves.

A similar linkup to Tiger Vinyl, but stays in Love Cats all the way to Beta Vinyl then takes Beta Vinyl to the top. Doing it this way avoids some of the zigging and zagging that TV has.

The hard man line of the crag. Looks amazing.

Another great line envisioned by Giles Bradbury who first climbed it at 28M1. It has seen very few (2?!) free ascents.

Start from the cairn and head up and across the right face to rejoin the arete at half height. Boulder up leaning arete to finish above the small roof.

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Good value route with 3 Boulder problems of different styles with easier climbing around them. Hardest route on the wall.

Start 3m right of Kitten Mittens behind the large rock at cliff base. Head up and left to join the last few bolts of Tiger Cat.

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

Climb meta to the last bolt then head left to the ‘jug’ rest on baby cheeses and do it’s final crux before finishing up the big cheese.