Routes in Middle East for selected grade

Trad up the crack.

Topo: Howard guidebook #13.

This route is located on the right of a bolted route. Follow the obvious crack (which becomes off width is some locations) all the way to the belay station of the sport route.

1.pitch loose rock dangerous

Bakımsız Tarzan is a traditional 65 meters route

Topo: Howard guidebook #18.

Currently closed by National Park Authority

#31.

#32. Crazy exit.

Difficult and long abseil!

requires 5mm chord to protect the crux on the upper slab

p1: 24 p2: 24

Multipitch trad. Double set of friends from 0.3 to 5. Two bolt anchor stop P1 and ring chains on P2. Lower-off in two rappels.

#33

No fixed anchors. The climb follows the corner crack all the way, either staying in it or out on the face in places. Risk of loose rock.

Descent: After the final climbing pitch, head right through the narrow passage. After this head right and scramble down the dry gully (there are plants). Follow the cairns along the ridge line and after a short down climb head right then back left down another gully to a 30m repel from 2 threads. (30 - 60 mins)

Alternatively, rappel down the main face along the route "Garbure et Cornichons", on 4 anchors. The top anchor is a thread with slings, that can be reached with a slightly hairy downclimbing move of 3. From there rappel trending left, to find another thread with slings. Rap from this continuing slightly left, to find a bolt and a piton (twin 60s will reach the floor from here). 4th station on top of the block (unverified) Risk of loose rock during rappel.

Topos: Howard guidebook #66 Graded TD: Tres Difficile/very difficult (Alpine grade)

#35

Approach up Wadi S. Bach Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book

1. f5 - 50m Start between the block and the wall, head right to the flake and gain the ramp. Belay on big ledge, there is a bolt about 5m to the right.

2. Walk to the right about 20m, stop at the red wall just before the small roof system starts, still on the main face. You can see some features of P4

3. f5 - Slab a bit run out, belay on a big ledge. (possible to link with P4 stopping just short of the tree ledge). Variation pitch: The wall just 8m right of the bolt-belay (along a fixed sling which you can see from the belay) to the big ledge. Same grade (f5), better belay.

4. f5+ - Vertical crack, this might also be broken up into 2 pitches. Big abseil tree is to the right can end here or carry on. Ropes on tree look a bit old, but okay (tested 02/2023).

5. f5 - The grey slab in front of the big tree. Other topos say no gear but marginal cams can be placed, BD4 used.

6. (A short walk to the left before the start of this pitch.) f5, up the crack, physical, laybacks and jams

7. f5+ up the crack, physical, a mantel, slopey laybacks and jams, tough for the grade (possible option to swing out left on the face rather than direct

8. f3

9. f3

Descent:

Rappel Down the route, then either - repel to the big tree and repels into couloir. - or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch).

Topos: Howard guidebook #25.

rap descent

On a vertical face on the left of the East side. Start 2m left of Ladder. Pitch 1: Climb the crack in the steep wall to a ledge and belay (8m). Pitch 2: Climb the slab on the Right up to a ledge Pitch 3: Climb the crack on the left up to the top. walk off from the top from the North side

Start 2m right of Ladder on the rightward rising crack to the ledge. The second 2 pitches are as for Ladder.

5 m right of Ladder on the East Side. Pitch1: The huge diagonal crack going right. Belay on the stance under pitch 2. (30m) VS 4b Pitch 2: Climb the small overhang using broken rocks (secure with a BD3 Camelot) into a small stance and then go left on the vertical wall (secure the exit from the stance with a nut). (10m) HVS 5a

Access: you go down from rajef village to this gpx point (30.21009, 35.41773) then go down on side canyon that's connect with atajra canyon untill reach this gpx point (30.21546, 35.41651) this is the start point for green shirt also.

P1: Shared pitch with green shirt you can use existing statio

P2: traverse after finish first pitch go direct left up to juniper tree (عرعر) you will find a thread behind crack

P3: Straight up you need size 3 can for crack little bit soft stone when you finish you will find bolt to traverse left for station and you will find thread behind crack

P4: Go back to crack or climb the face of crack you will find thread when you finish will find a column and 2 juniper tree use second one for station

P5: If you have enough experience you can just do it buy using short rope technics

After you just walk 15 min to car you will find in the way up old ruins

Leo is an enjoyable traditional climb that utilizes a couple horizontal placements at the start of the route before getting into a nice crack feature. Pull through some slightly over hanging moves on good holds 5 meters off the ground. Follow a crack up an inside corner and through a large roof halfway up the climb. Easy climbing will bring you to one last crux sequence that can be protected from a bolt on the neighboring route or or place a mediocre small nut and push on through delicate moves to the anchor.

Leo is an enjoyable traditional climb that utilizes a couple horizontal placements at the start of the route before getting into a nice crack feature. Pull through some slightly over hanging moves on good holds 5 meters off the ground. Follow a crack up an inside corner and through a large roof halfway up the climb. Easy climbing will bring you to one last crux sequence that can be protected from a bolt on the neighboring route or or place a mediocre small nut and push on through delicate moves to the anchor.

On the east face about 200 m south from the arch. The climb starts at a set of leftwards leading fingers.

It is possible to climb slightly different variations all over this slab. Online and guide book topos all show slightly different ways especially around the large roof. Take care with route finding at the large roof as you could end up on soft rock or harder difficulty. The number of pitches will also be variable up to 9? There is also an extension to the true summit (not described here).

Time: Between 4-8 hours to reach the boulder field.

Gear: Cams up to big blue (camelot 3), no hexes.

Easy variant

.

• Climb the fingers to a good ledge, f4.
• Up a crack in the middle of the slab, then over a more vertical section f4.
• (easy variant) walk up and to the right heading under a small wall f3.
• (easy variant) up a left wall to reach the right side of the big roof, find a white thread around a hollow sounding flake, f4.
• traverse left to a gap in the roof, slightly over hanging. Can be protected with a middle sized nut and a tiny thread (using a stiff aramid sling) gain the roof, go straight and belay in a corner crack, f5c.
• exposed domes and slabs to a ledge with a piton and a cairn, f5.
• slabs to the top, boulder field f4.

Direct variant

.

• Climb the fingers to a good ledge, f4.
• Up a crack in the middle of the slab, then over a more vertical section f4.
• (Direct variant) Head direct to reach the right side of the big roof, find a white thread around a hollow sounding flake, f5.
• traverse left to a gap in the roof, slightly over hanging. Can be protected with a middle sized nut and a tiny thread (using a stiff aramid sling) gain the roof, go straight and belay in a corner crack, f5c.
• exposed domes and slabs to a ledge with a piton and a cairn, f5.
• slabs to the top, boulder field f4.

Descent:

.

Via the burdah bridge route (1-2 hours), there are cairns, trending towards the left of the bridge. Just before the bridge there is an exposed traverse (f3). Apparently there is also an abseil down onto the bridge, to avoid the traverse (un verified).

Goldfinger goes up the small pillar that resembles a hand giving the finger, in the middle of the east face of Jebel Rum.

No belays are bolted.

P1: Start up the cracks up and right along to a belay below the obvious crack and chimney (5a, 55m), Build your own anchor.

P2: Climb the finger crack to a big ledge (6a, 35m) (5+ if you know how to finger jam), build your own anchor.

P3: Climb up and left in a corner and proceed further to the very top of the Goldfinger pillar(5b, 20m).

Descent in four rappels down the left (Troubadour) side of the pillar. Rapps on this side are bolted

Zehirli Sarmaşık is a wonderful over hanging traditional route up a non continuous crack. Start from the base of a large tree and follow nice face climbing before reaching the crack 4 meters off the ground. Continue on a sustained series of moves with a tricky crux at the lip. Resist the urge to turn this into a tree climbing route . Follow the crack up and left until it merge is with the anchor of Doğankaya. (The anchor in the 2018 mini guide it does not exist and the 6+ grade is incorrect)

Location Zehirli Sarmaşık is located directly above a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Traditional gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor.

Zehirli Sarmaşık is a wonderful over hanging traditional route up a non continuous crack. Start from the base of a large tree and follow nice face climbing before reaching the crack 4 meters off the ground. Continue on a sustained series of moves with a tricky crux at the lip. Resist the urge to turn this into a tree climbing route . Follow the crack up and left until it merge is with the anchor of Doğankaya. (The anchor in the 2018 mini guide it does not exist and the 6+ grade is incorrect)

Location Zehirli Sarmaşık is located directly above a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Traditional gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor.

Marmite is a wonderful yet deceiving traditional route at packs a sustained punch. Start on light colored rock with a run out before finding your first good gear placements. Follow a slightly over hanging right trending crack that eventually will curve back to the left side yet offer little relief in terms of pump in your forearms. Breathe a sigh of relief when you get to the gray rock and shake out before clipping the anchor shared with Noel Baba.

Location Marmite is located 3 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Traditional gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Marmite is a wonderful yet deceiving traditional route at packs a sustained punch. Start on light colored rock with a run out before finding your first good gear placements. Follow a slightly over hanging right trending crack that eventually will curve back to the left side yet offer little relief in terms of pump in your forearms. Breathe a sigh of relief when you get to the gray rock and shake out before clipping the anchor shared with Noel Baba.

Location Marmite is located 3 meters right of a large pine tree at the base of the cliff above the picnic area gazebos. Follow a prominent crack on this portion of cliff.

Protection Traditional gear to 2", 2 bolt anchor

Trad line in the crack next to T100.

Leo is an enjoyable traditional climb that utilizes a couple horizontal placements at the start of the route before getting into a nice crack feature. Pull through some slightly over hanging moves on good holds 5 meters off the ground. Follow a crack up an inside corner and through a large roof halfway up the climb. Easy climbing will bring you to one last crux sequence that can be protected from a bolt on the neighboring route or or place a mediocre small nut and push on through delicate moves to the anchor.

Location Leo is located 18 meters right of the prominent inside corner crack that marks the beginning of the sector. Start 1 meter right of the first pine tree growing at the base of the cliff.

Scorpio is a mediocre traditional climb that enjoys a handful of good sequences but overall is a bit to vegetated to become a classic. Start by scrambling a up low angled dirty face to reach the crack. Follow this feature to the right of a medium-sized roof and then trend left on easy terrain to a 2 bolt anchor 30 meters off the ground.

Location Scorpio is located 24 meters right of the prominent inside corner crack that marks the beginning of the sector. It is also 7 meter right of the first pine tree growing at the base of the cliff.

Bring along a set of BD friends/cams up to #2 and double on smaller cams. Add some small nuts for good measure.

It is the crack on the left of the route Something from nothing. You see the anchor from the bottom.

Very enjoyable vertical climbing on solid rock following two cracks separated by a short traverse. Easy to protect, but will require micro protection in a couple of spots (otherwise runout). Extend the points on the traverse to decrease rope drag. Top anchor consists of 3 independent cords attached to 3 solid rock columns and come together with a maillon (quick-link). Be aware of the rope when lowering, as it may get stuck in the upper crack. It's recommended to rappel off the route in order to decrease wear on your rope.

Nice short route at left end of the magnificent East Face of East Dome. Pleasant climbing in cracks and good rock with satisfactory protection. Descent by abseil on the route, take care ropes are jamming.

P1: Start the rip left of the little cave. 2-bolt-belay at ledge or combine with next pitch.

P2: Follow the corner crack sytem. Sling belay left of the ledge (for abseiling) or more comfortable gear belay at the ledge.

P3: Follow the crack, sling belay.

P4: Crux pitch, hard for 5+. Sling belay.

P5: Left leaning corner to the end.