Routes in Middle East for selected grade

Varied and fun all the way. Runout bolting in the upper half.

Easier first half, then up into the steep chimney.

8a.nu consensus 5c/6a.

Great and varied climbing. At 8a.nu also 6a+/b suggestions.

Vertical.

Boldery start to a stright forward climb.

Another excellent route and the easiest of the ones on this wall. The crux is between the third and fourth bolts and is quite technical.

Good footwork required in the technical upper half.

Vertical.

An alternative route to "Ras Khalili" without doing the overhang, shares same anchor.

Fun climbing with lots of good holds. Bolting is quite runout.

Straight up the column, cramped exit. Not that easy for the grade.

Climbing into the bush and to the left of the bolts. Adapted from the Russian Bear route to its right.

Feels harder than the 5c+ around the corner.

Water runnels and pockets all the way...

Starts where the path arrives at the rock. Just left of the bigger tree growing out of the rock.

Nice demanding start, easy after the 4th bolt!

Short, but with some fun moves through the steep dihedral.

Great climb. Consistent and challenging all the way.

Starts on the hey slab and trends slightly left at bolt 4 and 5 before going up high. Very homogeneous.

An even better route than the previous two. Very steep at the top, but the huge bucket holds compensates.

Approach up Wadi S. Bach Pitch numbers a bit different than the TH guide book

1. f5 - 50m Start between the block and the wall, head right to the flake and gain the ramp. Belay on big ledge, there is a bolt about 5m to the right.

2. Walk to the right about 20m, stop at the red wall just before the small roof system starts, still on the main face. You can see some features of P4

3. f5 - Slab a bit run out, belay on a big ledge. (possible to link with P4 stopping just short of the tree ledge). Variation pitch: The wall just 8m right of the bolt-belay (along a fixed sling which you can see from the belay) to the big ledge. Same grade (f5), better belay.

4. f5+ - Vertical crack, this might also be broken up into 2 pitches. Big abseil tree is to the right can end here or carry on. Ropes on tree look a bit old, but okay (tested 02/2023).

5. f5 - The grey slab in front of the big tree. Other topos say no gear but marginal cams can be placed, BD4 used.

6. (A short walk to the left before the start of this pitch.) f5, up the crack, physical, laybacks and jams

7. f5+ up the crack, physical, a mantel, slopey laybacks and jams, tough for the grade (possible option to swing out left on the face rather than direct

8. f3

9. f3

Descent:

Rappel Down the route, then either - repel to the big tree and repels into couloir. - or repels down the main face to the start (one being 60m to the bolt at the top of the 1st pitch).

Topos: Howard guidebook #25.

To the right of 'Lola', in the crag to the right of 'Right Cave'.

Difficult technical start, then enjoy the long run.

up the face. Can be climbed on left or right bolts.

Just a few meters to the right of Lodos on expansion bolts. Starts just left of the tree going to a big undercling flake and meanders the way up high.

a body in chimney

missing 1st bolt

Hike up a few meters and go left on the small ramp / ledge to a line of glue-ins.

Up along the long crack in the corner behind the tree. Be careful with a bunch of hollow flakes and blocks at mid height.

Start at the undercut area at the left of the crag. Trend up and right. Difficult move, especially for the short, at third height. Then straight forward climbing to the top.

New route on orange rock just a few meters right of "Gin and Tonic".

Another great route up the edge of the overhang.

Goldfinger goes up the small pillar that resembles a hand giving the finger, in the middle of the east face of Jebel Rum.

No belays are bolted.

P1: Start up the cracks up and right along to a belay below the obvious crack and chimney (5a, 55m), Build your own anchor.

P2: Climb the finger crack to a big ledge (6a, 35m) (5+ if you know how to finger jam), build your own anchor.

P3: Climb up and left in a corner and proceed further to the very top of the Goldfinger pillar(5b, 20m).

Descent in four rappels down the left (Troubadour) side of the pillar. Rapps on this side are bolted

Glue-in bolts all the way...

Vertical climb just right of unknown.

Best easy route to warm up.

Climb up; the beginning can be tricky, but it's okay once you figure out the moves. After you reach the shelf, clipping to the penultimate quickdraw suggested. Then, you can traverse to the right using the shelf, grab a great pocket, and climb up.

Convoluted and unbalanced route. A bouldery start, then traverse left and finish up what used to be a VDiff trad chimney.