Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.13c | ★★ Arbolito Extensión
Extension of Arbolito. The extension goes into 5.13c, it's crimpy, steep, slopey and cruxy. | 30m, 14 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Screaming Target
FA: Dan McQuade, 1995 | 7 | Mount Charleston | ||
5.13c | ★★ Mas si osare un extraño enemigo
The classic of the crag. 45m’s of spectacular, relentless tension. No move harder then V5 but hundreds of them. Always equipped with draws and the must do of the crag. | 45m, 25 | Jilotepec | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Las perlas de la virgen
Incredible climbing with a hard overhung start through nice tufas and some long moves onto more fun climbing. bolted by ALEX CATLIN FFA: Alex Catlin | 30m, 13 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Abducción Anunnaki
Climb the yellow streak all the way up to the roof and continue for a couple more moves to get the chains. Set: Joel Guadarrama & el pop FFA: Ricardo Vara | 24m, 10 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Kaleidoscope
FA: Monique Forestier, 2006 | 24m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
V9 | ★★★ Tatonka
| Squamish | |||
5.13d | ★★★ Ultra Perm
FA: Chris Martin | 27m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13d | ★★ City Park
1
5.13d
35m
2
5.10b
20m
| 55m, 2 | Index Town Walls | ||
5.13b/c | ★★★ Aura Negra
1
5.11-
25m
2
5.13b/c
25m
Follows the crack through the dark grey slab. 8 bolts and 25m to first anchor. Set: Arcadi Artis & Ulises Fierro | 50m, 2 | El Doctor | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Dante's Inferno
Climb the obvious thin grey streak. Set: Arturo Martinez, 2008 FA: Alex Honnold, 2009 | 30m | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.13c/d | ★★★ Espacio Muerto
A soon to be classic. Technical climbing up stalagtites leads to a steep finish. Set: Urs Moosmüller | 25m, 13 | Guadalcázar | ||
5.13c | ★ Fantastic Voyage Extension
Climb fantastic voyage to the anchors and continue up for another 10m of value technical overhung face on crimps and slopers. FA: Ricardo Vara Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014 | 40m, 16 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
V9 | ★★★ Top Secret
FA: Mathieu La Mouette Elie, 2002 | Val-David | |||
V9 | ★★★ Soul Slinger | Buttermilks | |||
V9/10 | ★★★ Americana Exotica
| Red Rock | |||
V9 | ★★★ Worm world cave
| Squamish | |||
V9 | ★★★ Impossible Wall
From the stand start. Sit start ("Chinese Connection") is V11. | 6m | Indian & Mortar Rocks | ||
5.13d | ★★★ Mago Colibri
Right extension of Guerrera Cosmica. | 60m, 30 | El Chonta | ||
5.13d | ★★ Azoe
| 30m, 14 | Jilotepec | ||
V9 | ★★★ Sex After Death | 6m | Hueco Tanks | ||
5.13c | Fluff Boy
| Rifle Mountain Park | |||
V9 | ★★★ El Señor Enigma
Mismo inicio que "Rey Misterio" pero te vas hacia la izquierda usando un pico invertido. | El Chico | |||
5.13b/c | ★★★ EL Banjo de Homero
FA: Fernande Calvan, 2011 | 35m | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.13d | ★★★ Last of the Bohicans
FA: Bill Ramsey, 1998 | 38m, 15 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Camino del Diablo
Perma draws most of the route. Climb up to the ledge next to the small grey tufa and follow the crack trending right. There are different variants at the end of this route. 2 bolt anchor. Continue to the second anchor and you will be climbing “Amigo del Diablo”. FA: Kurt Smith | 38m, 13 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.13 | ★★★ Habanero/Time For Livin'
| 180m, 6, 4 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.13d | Swingline | 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13d | ★★★ Rarotonga
Comienza en el gran montículo de piedras. Se va por todo el techo para salir de la cueva y se cruza con Matanga | Actopan | |||
V9 | ★★★ No Troublems
| Squamish | |||
V9 | ★★ Mindbender Low
| Squamish | |||
5.13c | ★★★ Angry Birds
FA: Kevin Wilkinson, 2010 | 30m, 12 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13c | El Niño
Free variation of 'North America Wall' with one short rappel down a completely black eight-meter blank section. FFA: Thomas Huber & Alexander Huber, 1994 | 30 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.13d | ★★★ Honey Bear Extension
Honey Bear's extension. Climb past the anchors of honey bear up for 20 m past two roof system and technical fun, chains just after the second roof (~32m of climbing in total).Watch your fingers in roof transition up high, a small family of bats are rumored to be living there. Climb during cold spells to avoid a little snap of the fingers and better friction on the sloper crux. Set: Ulric Rousseau FA: RIcardo Varz | 33m | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.13c | The Madness
FA: Brain Toy, 1997 | 37m, 13 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Fight Club | 25m | Mt Vernon | ||
V9 | ★★★ Cowboy
FA: Antoine Séguin, 2001 | Val-David | |||
V9 | ★★★ La Roulade Dans L'Orque
FA: Chris Sharma, 2003 | Val-David | |||
5.13d | ★★★ True Love
| 20m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13c | Silky Smooth
About 30ft right of "Divine Punishment". Set: Kevin Wilkinson | 23m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13d | ★★★ Bell Tunich
| 30m, 15 | Jilotepec | ||
V9 | ★★ Caribdis
Left of Catarsis. Sit start compressing on slopers, compression all the way! | Peña de Bernal | |||
V9 | ★★★ Big Chicken
| 5m | Squamish | ||
V9 | ★★ The Touch
| Squamish | |||
V9 | ★★★ Bee Professor
| Squamish | |||
5.13c | ★★★ Jugo de Toronja
The right extension after the big ledge. | 42m, 21 | El Chonta | ||
5.13d R | ★★★ Tainted Love
Classic stem corner atop the Chief. Good small gear, bad small holds. FFA: Hazel Findlay, Aug 2017 | 16m | Squamish | ||
5.13d | ★★★ Strict Machine
Just right of Camino del Chino. Set: Ulric Rousseau | El Salto; C.d.G. | |||
5.13d | ★★★ Fuerza Civil
Starts just right of Ayotzinapa 43 and passes right of the small roof to a higher anchor. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2013 | 30m, 14 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.13d | ★★★ Permanent Waves
Climb the tree and head along the ledge. A tricky sequence gains the aesthetic fin. Follow to a very powerful and Crimpy boulder problem at the top. FFA: Jim Sandford, 1993 | 18m, 10 | Squamish | ||
V9 | ★★ El Señor Bebé
A la derecha de "La Señora Bebé". Empieza parado. | El Chico | |||
5.13b/c | ★★★ Chinguetti
Climb the large stalactites just right of the tunnel to the other cave to the lip of the cave. Resting on the large stalagmite makes the grade to 12d/13a. Shares the anchor with Oagadougou and Vaacanda. FA: christian ehlert | 25m, 13 | Guadalcázar | ||
V9 | ★★★ The Seam
| Squamish | |||
5.9 - 13 C2/2+ | ★★★ The Glass Menagerie (Aid)
This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.
Location North Face of Looking Glass. Hike in from the obvious trailhead at the parking area heading south towards the North Face. It will be the first route you come to once at the wall. It is possible to retreat from any pitch but you may have to leave some biners on the raw bolts. It is best to walk west towards the Nose and rappel it to get off the wall. | 180m, 7 | Looking Glass | ||
5.13c | ★ The Path
| 14 | Rifle Mountain Park | ||
5.13d | ★★★ Dante's Inferno (Extension)
Climb Dante's inferno and continue for some more. 80 m rope will get you down, barely Set: Ulric Rousseau, Dec 2015 FA: Bruno, Dec 2015 | 40m | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.13d | ★★★ White Man's Shuffle
FA: Bill Ramsey, 2003 | 11 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Sprayathon
FA: Colin Lantz, 1993 | Rifle Mountain Park | |||
5.13d | ★★★ Thug Life
FA: Kevin Wilkinson, 2011 | Red River Gorge | |||
5.13d | ★★★ Super Charger
FA: Tobias Wolf, 2009 | 27m, 11 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13d | ★★★ Nagypapa
| 24m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Choose Life | 30m, 13 | Boulder | ||
V9 | ★★ Turning Point | Boulder | |||
V9 | ★★★ Sesame street
| Squamish | |||
5.13d | ★★★ Replicant | Skaha | |||
5.13d | ★★★ Atomic Cow
start ´atomic stetson´than traverse left onto ´cow reggae´ | Wild Iris | |||
5.13d | Killer Bees | St. George | |||
5.13c | ★★ Globe Trotters
| 25m | Horne Lake | ||
5.13c | ★★★ The Great Feast
| Maple Canyon | |||
5.13c | ★★ Massai Mara
Starts on the largest stalagmite at the left end of the cave and climbs out the underside of the roof ending at the highest set of anchors in the hole on the other side of the cave. Shares the anchor with Oagadougou, Chinguetti, and Vaacanda. Classic! Set: christian ehlert FA: Mauricio Huerta | 28m, 15 | Guadalcázar | ||
5.13c | ★★ Trikitonga
Comienza en el gran montículo de piedras. Usa las primeras 6 plaquetas de Rarotonga y continúa hacia el centro de la cueva. | Actopan | |||
5.13c | ★★ Las Tres Atenciones
Extension of Amate Amarillo going up high next to the "blank stripe". | 60m, 29 | El Chonta | ||
5.13 R | ★★★ Air Swedin
Start on Swedin-Ringle Route and climb past the anchor. | 30m | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
V9 | ★★★ Ebola
Sit start on undercling and crimp. Watch the topout. | Peña de Bernal | |||
V9 | ★★★ Naranja Mecanica | Peñoles | |||
V9 | ★★ Frogger | 4m | Hueco Tanks | ||
V8/9 | ★★ L'amour qui fait BOOM
FA: Antoine Séguin, 2001 | Val-David | |||
5.13c | ★★★ Army Ants
Start to the left of a yellow streak. burly slaps up a small corner lead to a poor rest and a powerful crimpy section. If you're pumped the moves under the anchor will be heartbreaking. FA: Lev Pinter | 14m | Canmore | ||
5.13c | Pushin' Up Daisies
This is the extension above Flour Power FA: Brad Weaver, 2008 | 37m, 2 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13d | ★ Wyoming Sheep Shagger
| Maple Canyon | |||
5.13c | ★★★ Black Gold
| 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.13c | ★★★ The Project
| 21m, 9 | Meadow River | ||
5.13d | ★★ Endless Summer
Class for the grade! A must do, power enduro test piece. FA: Scott Milton | 19m | Canmore | ||
5.13d | ★★★ Power Windows | Mount Potosi | |||
5.13d | ★★★ Vicious Fish | Smith Rock State Park | |||
5.13d | Huge
| Rifle Mountain Park | |||
5.13b/c | ★★ Early Bird
FA: Joe Skopec | 10m | Halton Region | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Guitarra de Lolo
Share the firsts bolts with “Unga Bunga” and goes right at the 5th bolt through fixed draws for 35M power endurance climbing. Set: Lolo, 2005 | El Salto; C.d.G. | |||
V9 | ★★★ Mr.Bigglesworth Low
| Squamish | |||
V9 | ★ Ghetto Superstar | Horse Pens 40 | |||
V9 | ★★ Backseat
| Squamish | |||
5.13c | ★★★ Taste the Pain | 21m, 9 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.13d | ★★ Dinosaur Highway
| 30m | Horne Lake | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Ghetto Boyz | 13 | Mount Charleston | ||
5.13d | ★★ Division Bell | 28m | Cheakamus Canyon | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Big Luc
On the Up the Hill wall, up the second chain and the climb that goes furthest left. Bolted by Konstantin FA: Martin Schon, 2021 | 27m, 12 | Little Russia | ||
5.13c | ★★★ Disposable Heros | 20m, 12 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.13c | ★★ Atomic Stetson | Wild Iris | |||
V9 | ★★★ Slice n Dice
| Red Rock | |||
V9 | ★★ Toxic Avenger | Tablelands |