Routes in North America for selected grade

A great area for novices and as an introduction area. Short approach, minimal bushwhacking, just off a main highway near Sault Ste. Marie, Ont.

Probably free climbable(?)

freeclimb possible?

Start at the foot of the lowest buttress of Home Cliff.

1. Climb an arete which levels out to an easy angled wall. Belay on a ledge. (40m)

2. Climb over and around the steep wall behind the belay. Go up a ramp and climb the slanting flake above it. (40m)

There is a deep corner here with a 5.0 chimney which can be used as an easy way up to the top of the cliff.

Climb to the back of the chimney, up, then back out on ledges and chockstones.

Just a set of practice anchors between 20 Feet of France and Cathy's Challenge.

Climb into the gully and walk along it's bottom to the back. Then climb up some easy terrain and exit out the small hole to find yourself on the top of 'Palm Sunday' and at an easy rap station for 'Wormhole'. Getting out the hole with a backpack is likely to be a challenge.

Start at number 50 (which is hidden behind some cedars), a couple meters up and left of "Four No More". Climb the inside corner and gully to the top.

Found at the top of a steep rise at # 32, with the initials "BC" painted on the rock. Another uncomfortable Mount Nemo descent gully.

Climb an easy corner inside the north end of the gully.

Left side of Alfred’s Wall.

Located 100m south of the Lookout Tower, this is the most popular approach gully for 'Mount Nemo' 's southern area climbs.

Dirty gully - climb to top

Starts at number 30.

Start at number 30.

Starts 4m right of 'Loblaws'.

Referred to as "Medium" in David Smart's 1988 Edition of Ontario Limestone.

There is a fixed rope to assist climbers here to provide easy access to to the base/top of the cliff.

If you hike all the way to the Eagles Nest Lookout, you have overshot this way down. It is about 200m back along the cliff, and down one scramble band.

Start just to the right of "Buck's First FA". Climb up and right on loose blocks for 6m, then continue up an obvious line to a large red pine tree.

Start at a short left-facing dihedral with an obvious foot-jam crack. Climb 4m up the dihedral, traverse right along a sloping crack, then finish.

This is Bon Echo's first route, and remains the traditional introduction for beginning climbers. (There is a 5.0 variant.)

Start: the tree-filled gully north of The Pinnacle

1. 15m (4th class) Scramble up the gully and over scree to a pair of large trees on the left. (If you really want a 5.0 climb, scramble further up the gully on the right to the Saucer Lucy and Thin Nick start, then follow 2 alt.)

2. 35m (5.2) Climb the break in the boulders and follow the ramp leftwards up to the ridge. Work your way right up a crack to a ledge covered with loose boulders. Round the nose on the skyline and climb the easy angled wall to a large stance by a silver birch tree (with a 2 bolt belay station).

3. 25m (5.0) Move left up the slab above the the birch tree to a groove which leads to a ledge by some Juniper bushes. Climb left to the ridge and follow it to a ledge with a small strong cedar tree where the angle of the ridge eases. This tree is a good example of the ancient cedars on the cliff. Don't sling -- there's a bolt. Belay here, or continue to the top.

4. 15m (5.0) Prance on up to the top. Belay at the two bolt rap station. Two ropes are needed for the rappel.

2a. 30m (5.0) Climb corners and ledges up and left to the silver birch belay at the end of the standard 2nd pitch.

(Was in the database as "The Birthday Route". No route with that exact name existed, this seemed the most likely match.)

Hard to find, a possibly un-repeated 5.0.

Climb the first two bolts of Lady Writer and finish on Yayiee's anchor.

this climb is a very easy way to gain top access or for kids to learn on (technically 4th class grade)

Traditional Climb Out

Only down climbed never assented.

complete traverse of the ridge and all spires.

4th class route possible but can be hard to find.

Poor rock quality.

scramble gulley approach to mid illusion wall, and dick ridge.

Airy scramble up the fin, passing a bulge at half height with a mantle move

Gear to 2.5".

Climb the easy arete on the eastern end of the cliffs.

The dirty chimney is immediately behind Laurel to the left, and to the right of Horseman’s crack. It is a useful access for the anchors of Laurel, Clover, and Rhododendron. An able climber should free solo it no trouble, but it is a bit leafy and dirty, and exposed enough to be dangerous if you should slip.