Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Abseil down to double bolt belay. Pre or stick clip 1st bolt. Follow the arete the whole way up

Bouldery prow following seam, pockets and interesting slots. Same start as afterlife.

Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains).

As for blind man with a pistol until headwall. Follow crazy dihedral left to a classic power endurance crux.

Starts a few meters right of Poison Bait. Great athletic roof climbing.

Hard start (dyno from cairn) into more dynamic climbing. 25M1 if clipping and pulling to first bolt.

Location TBC... Stand start on the obvious jug loaf layaway. Long moves between good edges to gain the big horizontal holds at 4m. Part 2 will continue to the top at V8/9, while a Vheavy sit start waits for they who can campus 1-6

A rough/crystalline, flaring, diagonal crack... hmmm! Starts at the double rap ring at the end of p1 of Manhattan Project.

1. Up face (FH) to the right-leaning flared crack. Up this and thin crack (many cams and wires) to where it peters out. Up bulge (FH) to a small ledge. Up short wall (BR) to gain another ledge. Follow this for approximately 20m until an exit is possible.

A traverse starting at Stugang and then linking into Clutch-Boing Link.

At the lip of IP, head right and run it out to the chains of Eddie, finishing up that routes extension. Surprisingly good, rope drag isnt too bad considering..

Vertical seam into roof.

An outstanding, sustained and varied free climb that challenges the full gamut of granite styles. This is a distinctly more approachable prospect than the other free routes on this end of the wall consisting of generally easier cruxes, fewer run-outs and less small gear. The route follows a logical line of features incorporating sections of the aid routes Knocking on Heavens Door, She, Clouded Queen, Ozymandias and Strange Ritual. Most pitches include a mix of natural gear and bolts. Take a standard rack up to a 3 Camalot including some micro cams, small and medium wires.

1. 27, 35m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door and Free Reign in right facing corner. Continue up this for roughly 8m then move slightly left and over bulge. Continue up the right facing features above the initial corner until it becomes possible to climb rightward across a sequence of underclings toward more sustained climbing and a mix of bolts and natural gear placements.

2. 27, 50m. Follow the obvious right facing sickle-shaped tips layback until it peters out and leaves you in apparent blankness. Solve the puzzle then continue for 30+ meters up the shallow open scoop with many block holds and carrot bolts.

3. 27, 40m. As for pitch 5 of Free Reign up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up slab and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots.

4. 22, 35m. As for pitch 6 of Ozymandias Original. Follow obvious crack to the left and up through steepness to the sloping ledge and triple bolt belay.

5. 27, 50m. Follow the traverse pitch of Ozymandias Original pitch 7 for approximately 5 meters until it becomes possible to climb straight up a series of positive cracks toward the large, steep right facing corner above. Continue up corner until it becomes a roof and it is possible to clip a fixed hanger straight out the roof. Climb past this and over the headwall for the last of the routes' difficult climbing. Enjoy the wild position and hard climbing beneath your feet! Once a large ledge is reached either belay from here to break pitch into two or pick your way through the wide climbing to the top of the cliff.

Outstanding arete with some very technical moves. Rebolted 2011 (thank goodness).

Start: 10m L of 'Clicke Crack' is the scarily exposed traverse which leads left to the main section 'Clicke Wall'. Start just L of the scary bit, under the L side of the obvious short arete.

This imposing line is on the wish list for many budding Frog-climbing gods! The stunning shallow corner swallows up RPs and micro cams. The upper section has two extremely thin and technical cruxes. Rap off the bolts.

Follow the overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton, from the diagonal follow up final crack then finish as for 'Astral Plane'.

Start: On middle of right hand wall looking in.

Headpointing comes to the mountains. First ascent was done using toprope rehearsal in order to clean and find the line. A ground-up ascent is possible just committing.

Start on arete at base off steep gully and at the beginning of the left leading diagonal break.

Start as for Barad Dur. Once on the ledge step left so that you are below and 1m left of Barad Dur's crackline and climb directly up, staying within a metre of the crack. If you're on route the first bolt of Pizazz can be clipped prior to heading up but then you are relying on side runners in Barad Dur.

Start up 'The Honeymoon is Over' then clip a bolt way out R. Swing R to the nose and up the wall past a PR.

Stick-clip bolt, climb tricky start and straight up past several more FHs. Start about 12 metres right of Yesterday

This searing cracked arete is the best line at Asses Ear. Unfortunately hard trad routes are remarkably unfashionable and this has had minimal if any repeats. Start as for Triptych but instead of bailing off right at 15m keep climbing the crack direct. The crack fades and difficulty escalates at the top.

Excellent orange face with lots of tiny crimpers and several FHs. Bring wallnuts to size 7 to supplement the existing FHs. More bolts may be added later.

Previously a long standing open project that was speculated for years prior to its first ascent. Literally a 5m (hard) boulder problem.

Start: Start between KK and AF.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1x #0.4 (x2 if linking P1 and P2), #0.75, #1, #4.

1. 30m (27) - 7 Bolts and a #0.4 Cam (to protect the final move to the anchor).

2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.75 and #1 Cam to anchor.

3. 25m (21) - 5 Bolts to anchor.

Variety! The famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag. Start as for Sirocco.

1. 35m (27) A great series of features. Follow pitch 1 of Sirocco to the horizontal. Swing R along this to tricky white corner and gain slab (FH). Trend R and up technical slab and finally the infamous big dyno between buckets (battered FH), to lower-off (25m, but a 60m rope barely reaches if it's still through all the gear so tie a knot in the end).

2. 35m 32. The daunting beautiful red wall above to a rap anchor at the top. Yet another contender for the best pitch on the wall. Renamed Orange Desire by Quentin; more like 33 according to Alex Megos.

A few desperate bouldery moves.

Face 10 metres right of Use No Chooks.

All bolts were replaced a few years ago. Theres also 2 ring bolts at top of first pitch so you can low off also

Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

Immaculately desperate corner crack with a powerful start. Begins from large shelf down low (climbers right). Up bouldery start and technical layback past bolt (using the slab on the left takes away a grade) continue up thin crack with technical feet and increasinly fleeting hands to the top. Plenty of bomber gear on solid rock. would strongly advise stick clipping the bolt.

The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse.

Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately.

You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it.

The most obvious line through an enormous arrow head shaped stain. Fantastic steep crack, fingers, hands, chicken wings, funky dropknees, karate kicks, few pockets and few good crimps and jugs. Stops where the rock quality deteriorates after obvious bulge in ceiling. Lower off.

Wow.

1. 25m (23) As for Ozymandias.

2. 52m (28) As for Ozymandias.

3. 30m (25) As for Ozymandias. You are now on Big Grassy.

4. 35m (24) As for Ozymandias.

5. 30m (22) As for Ozymandias.

6. 40m (28) The roof and orange corner pitch. Follows bolts R to rejoin the line of Direct below the first big roof. Swing out through the roof and up gorgeous orange corner, then move R below Gledhill bivvy to belay on arete (as for Lord Gumtree).

7. 35m (22) Follow crack L and behind the Pontooth, then up more cracks (passing aid belay) to DBB at base of chimney.

8. 15m (10) Up the chimney to ledge with plaque. Can be linked with the next (or previous) pitch.

9. 20m (24) The offwidth corner. Take some big cams and go for it. Belay off a tourist (or use the handrail if there are no tourists about).

As steep as they come. Start below the "Beware of this Block" message. Tricky slabbing just to the left of the original start via sidepull edges and slot avoids the use of the suspicious block.

"The best line in Australia...". Also notable for the fact that Nyrie Dodd's free ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 27.

The second pitch roof-crack could hardly be in a better position.

This is also a superb mixed climb at 20, M2 if the roof is aided. Sadly it is often under-estimated and the detritus of retreat is often evident. It is not a practice route.

The start is rather obvious.

1. 50m (20) Up wide crack. Belay at stance where crack ends, about 10m below the roof. A #5 cam is useful on this pitch.

2. 20m (27) Move R to gain nice rail that leads L to the back of the roof, and the start of the roof crack. Follow crack (at either 27 or M2) to the lip and then up to belay stance.

3. 40m (18) Ramble up to the top.

Obvious leaning crack line. One of the best traditional routes around. Take cams up to #3 C4.

Start just R of M. Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.

A link of Chaos Roof and Where Iron Crosses Grow. Start as for Chaos Roof. Up past the first few bolts to the roof and instead of pulling the roof move, step L and up into the roof of WICG.

If you start at Big Grassy, pitches 4-9 make a great outing at 24 (and after the first 5m it's 22). You can abseil to Big Grassy direct with a single 150m rope (or via multiple abseils with 2 50m ropes if you know what you're doing).

Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.

1. 25m (23) Bouldery moves past 2 bolts, then L up slabby ramp to crack. Up to flake/ledge (DBB).

2. 52m (28) The amazing thin corner, which gets a bit funky in places. Climb straight past the aid belay at 30m and finish on a ledge off to the R just after 50m (DBB).

3. 30m (25) Up the thin corner (you might need to dig out dirt from some holds), then hand traverse L to ledge. Up crack to Big Grassy (FHs).

4. 35m (24) Thin gear and moves up the corner above Big Grassy (technically a couple grades easier on top rope, but the gear fills up the holds and running it out above a ledge fall is not much of an option). The pitch then gets a bit easier, up the grassy face crack slightly R of the corner, then over yellow rooflet and up THE corner a little way to an uncomfortable hanging belay (DFH). It's a major shame that these bolts weren't placed lower at a natural stance; this corner would be even more of a mega pitch otherwise.

5. 30m (22) Probably the best grade 22 pitch at Buffalo, despite the artificial hanging stance where it starts. The searing L-trending corner is quality all the way. Quite sustained. Just before the top of the corner follow the traverse line 5m L to a trad belay on the arete.

6. 35m (22) Interesting cracks through the bulges around to the L. Sustained, wide at times, and grungy; but good value. Triple FH belay.

7. 15m (19) Traverse L along vigorous crack to ledge.

8. 20m (14) A tricky start, then head up the labyrinth of chimneys.

9. 25m (10) Up the chimneys and big blocks to freedom, salvation and glory.

Ben says it is hyperclassic. One look will make you think otherwise. The worst route in the area? The rock in the top half is terrible. Start about 60m right of the 'Junket Pumper' terrace. Walk along the path - not through the bush.

It's hard to say which is less repeated - 'Tjuringa', 'Akakage', or this. Once you see the line, you'll know why. A massive traversing affair that starts as for 'Common Knowledge' 2nd pitch, but then keeps heading left (under Akakage) to a (hard) crux lip encounter (very old bolt) and an outrageous headwall finish.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Common Knowledge'.

A frustrating crux. The prominent middle crack-line on the orange wall. Stepped corner-crack to ledge. Step right and up line to a slippery crack (awkward to clip FH on left). After difficulties step left and up steep wall.

Rarely repeated. A long route with a sting in the tail. Climb past BR and broken rock into scoop, then very bouldery move left across cave. At sixth ring bolt go right and direct up face past limestone like large pocket and micro edges through bulge. 9 RBs and chain lower off.

Start around R from T. Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

Same desperate start as for The 'Bolshevik' connection but at second FH go straight up past a third FH to thin crack.

Like its neighbours, a very rarely repeated route that drives straight through the belay of 'Common Knowledge'. 'Fantastic' position and great rock, but a ridiculously hard fingery crux that has baffled quite a few aspiring suitors. Two bolts protect the business.

Perhaps the most preposterous traverse at the mount. done ground-up in a push. Triple rack up to #6 mandatory, ledge optional but recommended.

1. 45m (27) Climb the entire sideways journey of Tunnel of Corgis, but instead of going up, strenuously down climb Stigmatised (the higher traverse under the roof may go?), to continue on past Celluloid Heroes, Surprise and a moist fern garden to collapse at the Bad Cheques anchor. Be aware it is not possible to safely protect the second during the down climb.

2. 30m (19) Links into Eclipse. Up towards the roof, past Tjuringa’s DRB to a natural belay at the stance halfway up Common Knowledge.

3. 45m (12) Psyche up for even more traversing (!!!). the final glory slab awaits. step down into the alcove (pre-order your pub meal now), then climb past In Lieu, and along the ramp to finish at the tree.

The obvious Arapilesean sleazefest through the cave.

Starts behind pillar up at the back left. Climb Sloth Roof but keep going past the anchor for another 10 meters of mind blowing journey through a ceiling with tufa looking ironstone features. Ends a the opposite wall when your feet land onto a ledge after just another incredible 180 deg feet first cut loose.

Powerful climbing with a truly evil start, up thin flake to overlap. Looks good, bolts may need replacing. The second pitch could be an anti-climax though.

Start: Start on wall left of prominent orange off-width corner at left end of crag.

1. 25m (27) Thin flake crack into shallow corner (4 FHs) and a grey scoop (BR) and one more FH. Step left and go up short wall to ledge.

2. 25m (17) The wall above, veering left.

Steep hanging corner in prow on flawless red stone. Drop the clutch! 3 bolts then trad.

Short flake, then up wall past 2 RB and small gear to DRB.

Start: Start on ledge 5m around R of MS.

Start on small extruding block passed when climbing DBMP. Up jugs passing wires to large horn and a FH. Out past 2nd FH then over lip to final bolt (use 80cm sling). Up slab to summit. Do not place gear on slab and do not second this climb due to knife blade edge on lip.

Clip the first two bolts then up the steep Trad crack (small/medium wires and cams).

Continue up the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way and one of the best routes here.

Desperate start past bolt with insitu krab. After 2nd FH move left past another to finish as for Is Your Washroom Breeding Bolsheviks? The bolts are looking a bit cruddy.

Surely one of the best route names in the country.

Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'. A slopey traverse R is protected by a bolt (stick clip). Up past two more bolts before heading L to the crack. Up more easily with trad gear and one more bolt to anchors.

A good option if you think Father O eases off too much after its crux. Start as for Father O, until just past it's 3rd bolt. Now head up the R side of the scoop, through bulge past 2 FHs and 2 RBs (thin crux direct past 2nd RB - deduct a grade (and maybe some self respect) if you deviate L around this bolt into Father O) to break. Trend R from break to top. Take cams & wires. If that's not enough harder climbing for you then throw in the worthwhile direct start, from the middle of the belay ledge and heading up L (good tiny trad) to Father O's first bolt.

DBB.

Middle crack - turn the lip then to top, mantle to finish.

Obvious finger crack, rap rings over the lip.

Start: Start as for AP

1. 22 - 30m Climb Archimedes' Principle to belay of first pitch then continue along break to Pythagoras' Theorem. Either belay in corner or climb down to Pythagoras' Theorem first pitch ledge. 1 bolt

2. 27 - 50m Continue along obvious traverse line from Pythagoras' Theorem with mostly good holds but poor feet, all the way out to join Vegie Maths at the head wall (2nd last bolt of that route) and follow this to the top. 7 bolts

Adam Demmert and John Schmit climbed pitch 1 in 2009. The Adam and Malcolm did the second in 2014

Start just R of Aardvark original start. The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above.

Mind blowing line along the lip of a huge cave going from the bottom right to the top left. 15m of increasingly steep hand to wide hand/fist crack. Then 25m ceiling with a variety of fist/offwidth/jugs/chimney, ends where the ceiling crack meets the other side of the cave. No topout, backclean. If you stop at 15m just before the crack opens up and steepens to 80deg overhanging you can call it Disbelief (24)

Very well protected all the way. Steep section C4 1x#0.75, 1x#1, 2x#2, 3x#3 Ceiling section 8x#4, 2x#5, 1x#6

The whole crack is protected from rain and sun but will start seeping after several days of proper downpour.

One very, very hard move.. hence the name.

Thin and powerful. 6 rings and #3 Friend. Lower off last bolt.

Not including unclimbed projects, this is the hardest climb in Nerriga.

AKA Straight Outta Wackford.

As for Wackford Squeers Direct, then arbitrarily follow the difficult C-shaped sickle to the L in the upper section (rather than the obvious line of least resistance).

Classic test piece. Giles never really believed he could climb so hard. Start about 50m to the right after the waterfall. Still has some fragile rock; best to stick clip 1st bolt. Can be done only on the bolts, but a few cams are prudent (#1, 0.5/0.3, 3), as are rollers and extenders. 60m rope minimum.

The original Ewbank Aid Route, now freed at 25, 26, 27, 17 by Doug McConnell.

Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris.

Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2.

Thin and glassy. Start 2m R of The Philosopher. Climb past 2 bolts, join The Philosopher, then at first horizontal traverse right to flake (FH) then up to anchor.

Amazing finger crack dividing the Disbelief Cave in two. Tricky easier start to shallow hueco below clean splitter (handy Z4#0.1 and bomber C4#4). From there, the angle is about 45-60deg and most of your body weight will be held up by 3 consecutive solid finger locks in some of the most outrageous moves with footwork at head height. Progress on good but shallow huecos to juggy section. Return to ceiling crack with several finger locks up to a fix wire at the end of the finger crack. Always dry and drizzle free. https://youtu.be/Wsu631XwrWU?si=GrCxwJvDCp9SW7Dq

Climb Cut Short for a few metres until you can gain the hanging orange/grey wall to the left. Up this on delightful incuts, slopes, razors, and pockets to gain a series of beautiful pockets above an orange overlap. Make a span leftwards above the lip to pick up a vertical seam through a bulge then stagger over this to join Tapestry at the end of its traverse. Finish up Tapestry.

The stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer. Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.

1. 20m (21) A worthwhile pitch in its own right, although all the mantles are somewhat above gear. Up the slabby flake then 4m R along breaks. 3 slithery mantles lead to rap anchor on ledge (18m). Cams, med. wires.

2. 13m (27) Follow fused flake up L with increasing difficulty, then a draining fingery traverse back R to 3 bolt anchor (8m to 1st belay, 25m to base).

3. 20m (24) Brilliant. Tough moves out slopey 3m roof flake, past the only remaining original bolt - consider a small cam just below to back it up. Now blast up the very steep and very exposed water groove past 4 bolts and a spicy final runout. A wire can reportedly be finagled in on the top runout, but with all that air below your remaining energy is probably better spent in braving the final moves without it! DRB rap anchor (48m to ground).

Thin stuff.

Up 'Blue-Eyed and Blond' then veer left into the crack of Mysteries. Undercling the crack to gain gravelly crimps past two bolts, then easier ground above.

Climb the face just left of the arête. Technical face climbing on small crimps, arête is out. Place a cam in the horizontal break before the anchors for added protection at the final move.