Ascents of Dream Weaver

The best route I have done at butterfly

Very fun, working beta at bolt 6 on the arete

Banger

Super stoked to have sent this king line at the very end of this trip. Ending things on a high note and looking forward to some training in the coming year.

The route climbs beautifully and hardly offers a chance to chalk up until you're at the jug shake-out. A true sport climb unlike most other routes here that are basically bouldering on a rope.

why is dreamweaver like a famous radio presenter? it has lot of airtime. brushing is the key to sending

skip a clip on the lower section. I dare ya

I gave myself a one shot challenge. And then I was going to clean it... for good. Last night (Ok I have been watching a lot of doctor who lately) I dreamt that David tennant was yelling ‘try, try, try’ at me. Must have worked. Felt pretty good. Got to my high point before foul mouth fairy appeared. Thought I was gone on the last hard bit as my left hand was out... but then realized I only really needed my right one. Channeled my inner Tennant and yelled a lot.... and finally... finally ticked my hardest ever Climb!!! (I’m not including grades... this is so not my style!)

First shot bolt to bolt. Felt ok

conditions are finally good... but alas, I’m obviously not. Got a high point though

pretty useless. Still, got to just below my high point. 6 months off climbing, no training and nothing steep... I shouldn’t be surprised really

First shot bolt to bolting... all the moves are good it’s just so damn humid.

better but can’t control the heart palpitations!! Too muggy. Clean to juggy pocket and all moves good above.

First shot bolt to bolt to ‘warm up’ for it. Pretty muggy so not best conditions but still stuck all the moves so progress there. Took a couple of practice falls to get myself into the zone for the mega whipper... but no mega whipper today.

Couldn’t stop my heart pounding so got to crux then rested before the last two bolts. Definitely warmer today though. Still stuck both sections pretty well though. Still got a few days left...

Was almost thinking of giving this away but one last shot as it was too hot for the other project and I was still pretty tired. Climbed it pretty well. Got the cheeky crux every time... maybe I’ll give up the other one instead .. oooh choices!

Working the section I couldn’t do on lead. Being 12 degrees, perfect weather and friction. Just worked the 2 crux sections. Got it sorted now. Let’s see how I go in less ideal conditions but pulled each crux 5 Times.

Took some mega wingers today. Luckily wore calf sleeves and the helmet for the inevitable spin off and get the rope under my leg. All good though. No rope burn thankfully. X4

One dog to get the draws up then 3 trs. Bit muggy today, felt like I was going backwards. Tired now.

1st shot was terrible. 2nd slightly better. 3rd was amazing. Temperature dropped and got clean past second crux. Rested and then bolt to bolt but all moves clean. Best shot yet.

3 laps. Took up the secatuers and trimmed back the ant infested tree that Scott had to climb through. Haha I think the French guys just saw the top rope and were disgusted. Being that we also scrubbed back the black lichen, you’d think they’d be appreciative.... bloody dirty work! Remembered all the moves though.

Putting draws on for Peta + bonus ant infestation

One dog and a couple of rather pathetic laps on TR. feeling totally wiped out today and elbow is really hurting. Time off perhaps?

(3). Finally can do all the moves. Nearly Bolt to bolt at the crux to top of steep section. High point twice throwing to crimp sidepully thing. Trashed now....

Scott cut back the tree so I could work this but today was muggy. Areas that I thought I had wired came unwired... such a disappointing try.

Ten minutes before sundown so just a quick lap of the first few bolts to keep it in my head.

Worked out moves for the start. Pounding headache today so nothing too strenuous

Working on the lower bits. Seem to have found a sequence that works

Way way too hot for this and then I got swarmed by ants climbing through the tree at the top. First shot felt impossible. Second shot on TR to clean put a lot more together but still too fried by the sun and heat. I'll wait for a weather change.

1st shot today