Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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Sport | ||||||||
9a 9a+ | ★★★ Tierra Negra | 45m, 20 | Margalef | Sat 18th May 2013 | ||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | ★★★ Era Vella | 45m, 20 | Margalef | Fri 23rd Dec 2011 | ||||
9a+ | La Rambla | 41m, 17 | Siurana | Wed 6th Dec 2017 | ||||
9b+ Easy | Move | Flatanger | Mon 17th Jun 2019 | |||||
9a 9a+ | Beyond | Pic Saint Loup | Sun 26th May 2019 | |||||
9a+ 9a+/b | Les yeux plus gros que l'antre | 70m | Russan | Fri 11th May 2018 | ||||
8c+ 8c+ to 9a | Mollans culé | Mollans-sur-Ouvèze | Thu 13th Feb 2014 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Moksha (Moshka) | 50m | Pic Saint Loup | Sat 9th May 2015 | ||||
9a | La prophétie des grenouilles | Rocher des Brumes | Thu 19th Jul 2012 | |||||
9a | Roby in the sky | Les Calanques | Sun 17th Nov 2013 | |||||
9a | Punt'X | 20m | Gourdon Area | Fri 18th Oct 2013 | ||||
9a | ★★★ Casi mono | Courchon | Sat 5th May 2012 | |||||
9a+ Easy | Staphylocoque | Pic Saint Loup | Fri 11th Jul 2014 | |||||
9a | Trip Tik Tonik | Gourdon Area | Wed 10th Oct 2012 | |||||
8c+ 8c+ to 9a | Salida Del Sol | Gorges De La Dourbie | Thu 15th Dec 2016 | |||||
9a | Les 3 P (PPP) | 50m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Thu 5th May 2011 | ||||
8c+ | ★★★ San Ku Kaï (Sankukai) | Entre-les-Aygues | Fri 20th Jul 2012 | |||||
9a 9a/a+ | ★★★ Le Complexe Du Play Boy | Lourmarin | Sun 18th Dec 2011 | |||||
8b+ 8c | Super Samson (Super sansom) | Claret | Fri 1st Mar 2019 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Little Badder | Flatanger | Tue 20th Aug 2013 | |||||
9a+ 9a/a+ | L’homme demain | 50m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Sat 27th Aug 2016 | ||||
9a | A muerte Bilou | 50m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Sat 29th Aug 2015 | ||||
9a | ★★ Ciudad de Dios | 25m | Santa Linya | Thu 2nd Mar 2017 | ||||
9a+ | ★★★ Pachamama | 50m | Oliana | Wed 6th Mar 2019 | ||||
9a+ 8c+ | ★★★ José Pine Le Gardien Dans La Cave (La Madone) | Lourmarin | Sun 20th May 2012 | |||||
9a+ | ★★★ Papichulo | 45m | Oliana | Thu 18th Apr 2019 | ||||
9a | La terza età (la terza eta) | 35m | Camaiore | Sat 28th Oct 2017 | ||||
9a+ | La côte d’usure (La côte d'usure) | 60m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Sat 15th Sep 2018 | ||||
9a+ Easy | ★★★ Thor's Hammer | Flatanger | Fri 22nd Jul 2016 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Promotion canne à pêche (Promotion canne à pêche) | 50m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Tue 30th Aug 2011 | ||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | ★★★ Esclatamàsters (Esclatamasters) | 40m | Perles | Sat 29th Dec 2012 | ||||
9b | Mamichula | Oliana | Mon 15th Apr 2019 | |||||
9a | ★★★ Pajarito (Parejito) | 40m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Wed 30th Jul 2014 | ||||
9a | Mandanga Total (La Mandanga total) | 50m | Villanueva del Rosario | Fri 22nd Apr 2016 | ||||
9a | Super Finale | Rawyl | Thu 25th Apr 2019 | |||||
9a | ★★ La Novena Enmienda (Novena enmienda) | 50m | Santa Linya | Sat 21st Jan 2017 | ||||
9a 9a/a+ | Mangarbo | Villanueva del Rosario | Tue 24th May 2016 | |||||
9a 9a/a+ | Definición De Resistencia Demócrata (Définition de resistencia democrata) | Terradets | Thu 16th Mar 2017 | |||||
9a+ 9a+/b | Chilam Balam | 82m | Villanueva del Rosario | Thu 21st May 2015 | ||||
9a 9a/a+ | ★★★ Le Play Boy Rôde Sans Complexe | 50m | Lourmarin | Sat 25th Apr 2015 | ||||
9a 8c+ | ★★ Le Complexe Adipeux Intégral (Moutchiki Extension) | 45m | Lourmarin | Thu 18th Sep 2014 | ||||
8c+ 8c | ★ Lily’s Eyes (Lily’s Eye) | 60m | Datça | Mon 10th Dec 2018 | ||||
9a | ★★★ Perfect Man 2.0 | 20m | Val Pennavaire | Sun 5th Nov 2017 | ||||
9b 9b/b+ | La Rage d’Adam | Les Gorges du Verdon | Wed 4th Sep 2019 | |||||
7b+ 8c | Hosanna | 160m | Les Gorges du Verdon | Tue 10th Sep 2019 | ||||
9a+ | No Pain No Gain | 40m | Rodellar | Tue 5th Nov 2019 | ||||
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9a 9a/a+ | De battre mon coeur s'est arrêté | 50m | Rodellar | Sun 3rd Nov 2019 | ||||
9b 9a+/b | Patanics | 60m | Rodellar | Tue 29th Oct 2019 | ||||
Nothing will perturb a climbing trip !
It started with a car broken on the road, continued with huge rain and wet project, to finish with a piece of metal in the eye...
Yet we will be here until the end . I fell on the last move of this route on my second day. I was thinking to be able to do it with one more climbing day. Then came the rain and everything was wet. I was hoping that the route get dry quickly. Yet, it's still wet now. I had to reorganize my betas in the wet sequences. I finaly find something ok when I got a piece of metal (quickdraw?) on my eye. I went to emergency, and specialist who remove the metal and told me to keep a patch on the eye during two days (picture 2). I tried climbing with only one eye, yet it was impossible to do 7b... I finally decided to remove the patch for a try in Patanics, and it was the good one . About the grade question, I am thinking it can't be 9b if I compare to my last realizations (Mamichula, Move, and La rage d'Adam). For me it feels closer to 9a/+. Yet the route is 100% my style, that's why my opinion is to propose a downgrade to a 9a+. But it's my opinion, and I am open to discuss with next repetitors.
Now on to next projects
via Instagram |
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9a+ 9a | Detectives | 50m | Rodellar | Fri 18th Oct 2019 | ||||
It's for me the best line in this grade in Rodellar.
I did it yesterday, second go on the first day of this trip. I tried it 4 years ago without success.
But I think the story of this first day of the trip makes this send more spicy.
The night before yesterday I broke my car on the way to Rodellar. Stuck on the road I had two option : take care of the car or leave the car on the road and going anyway to Rodellar. It took me two seconds to decide the second option.
I knew that friends were going there and I joined them in their van. We will take care of the car later . Thanks thomas_staudenmeyer and julia.cassou for the hospitality .
We took the rain during the morning going in Picineta sector. It was a bad start, yet it was a good end .
Now on to the other projects before the Big rain if tommorow.
via Instagram |
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9a | Abysse | Gourdon Area | Mon 17th Sep 2012 | |||||
9a+ | Kmira | Pic Saint Loup | Jul 2015 | |||||
9a+ | Joe Mama | Oliana | Fri 7th Feb 2020 | |||||
9a+ | ★ Catxasa | Santa Linya | Sun 9th Feb 2020 | |||||
9a | Legend | Pic Saint Loup | Fri 16th Jun 2017 | |||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | La Folle Histoire Immonde | Le Thaurac | Jan 2019 | |||||
8c+ | Cochon tendu | Mollans-sur-Ouvèze | Feb 2020 | |||||
8c | La dent de rouquin | Mollans-sur-Ouvèze | Feb 2020 | |||||
8c | L’attracteur étrange | Mollans-sur-Ouvèze | Feb 2020 | |||||
9a | Legend | Jura Vaudois | 2017 | |||||
9a | Bulle d'air | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Sun 8th Mar 2020 | |||||
8c+ | Fusion lactique | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Feb 2020 | |||||
8c+ | Premier de cornée | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Wed 8th May 2019 | |||||
8c+ | Paix à son âme | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Fri 7th Jun 2019 | |||||
9a+ | ★★★ Biographie | 40m | Céüse | Sat 13th Jun 2020 | ||||
8b | Les Braves Gens ne Courent pas les Rues | 30m | Les Gorges du Verdon | May 2020 | ||||
8c | Bohemian Symphony Extension | Les Gorges du Verdon | Mon 27th Jul 2020 | |||||
First FA of the season on the Ramirole 🤙. It was an "end of day" project : Bohemian symphony extension. It could be around 8c. I was close to do my warm up project too, falling on the last move... Next one
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9a+ | La moustache qui fâche | Entre-les-Aygues | Fri 28th Aug 2020 | |||||
9a | Le goût du sang | Vercors | Tue 1st Sep 2020 | |||||
8c 8c/c+ | Challenge côte d'or | Vercors | Mon 31st Aug 2020 | |||||
8c 8c/c+ | La traînée rousse | Les Gorges du Verdon | Wed 5th Aug 2020 | |||||
9b 9b/b+ | Beyond Integral | 50m | Pic Saint Loup | Thu 22nd Oct 2020 | ||||
9a | Hugh | 20m | Les Eaux-Claires | Fri 30th Oct 2020 | ||||
9a | Akira - with Lucien Martinez | 20m | Grotte de Vilhonneur | Sat 21st Nov 2020 | ||||
Seb via Insta: "Akira is a legendary piece from the 90's. This route was the first 9b / 5.15b world proposition by Fred Rouhling in 1995. At the time, 9a+ didn't even exist yet. It was a big step for our community."
He told climbing.com: "About the grade, we are thinking this one a bit easier than the number announced," Bouin wrote. "We had the impression to climb a 9a [5.14d] route. It's hard to speak about grade on this historical piece, but we need to be honest." |
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9a | ★★ De l’autre Côté du Ciel | 20m | Les Eaux-Claires | Mon 23rd Nov 2020 | ||||
9a+ | Les Gardes Fous | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Feb 2021 | |||||
8c+ | Oppression | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Feb 2021 | |||||
9a | La tête dans le guidon | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Apr 2021 | |||||
FFA
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8c+ | Guerre future | Claret | Sun 9th Jan 2022 | |||||
8c+ 8c+/9a | Les Mythes aux Logis (Axe d'aile version longue) | Tautavel | Thu 11th Nov 2021 | |||||
9a | Comité d'accueil | Séranon | Wed 19th Jan 2022 | |||||
9c | DNA | Les Gorges du Verdon | Fri 29th Apr 2022 | |||||
9a+ | Thor's Hammer P2 | 25m | Flatanger | Mon 11th Jul 2022 | ||||
after 9 tries
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9b 9b/b+ | Nordic Marathon | 130m | Flatanger | Thu 21st Jul 2022 | ||||
9a+ 9a+/b | Change L1 | 55m | Flatanger | Jul 2022 | ||||
9b+ | Change | 55m | Flatanger | Fri 5th Aug 2022 | ||||
5.15b | Kneepad Jumbo Love | 80m | Clark Mountain | Wed 19th Oct 2022 | ||||
5.15c | Suprême Jumbo Love | 70m | Clark Mountain | Wed 2nd Nov 2022 | ||||
FA
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8b | FA Tensao Nuclear | Atlântida | Jan 2023 | |||||
8c | FA Nessum Dorma — 2 attempts | Atlântida | Jan 2023 | |||||
9a Easy | ★★★ Filipinos | 18m | Meio Mango | Jan 2023 | ||||
9a/a+ | FA Mar de Bering | Meio Mango | Thu 26th Jan 2023 | |||||
9a+/b | FA Rei de Bering | Meio Mango | Jan 2023 | |||||
9a | FA Guère de Bruit | Claret | Tue 24th Jan 2023 | |||||
8c | FA La direct du JIP | 48m | Gorges du Tarn | Feb 2023 | ||||
8c+ | FA No Spain no Gain | Russan | Feb 2023 | |||||
8c+ | FA Captain quook’s | Russan | Feb 2023 | |||||
9a | FA Gold Thaurac | Le Thaurac | Thu 24th Mar 2022 | |||||
9a+ | FA Myr | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Mon 7th Mar 2022 | |||||
9a | FA A quelques mètres de la légalité | Saint Guilhem-le-Désert | Mon 24th May 2021 | |||||
8c+ | FA Vision Remains | Abella de la Conca | Sun 6th Feb 2022 |
via Instagram