Ascents in World by Sébastien Bouin having sport-cpr or ascent-date

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14 tries in 5 days

I did this route on my third go two days ago. I knew the end from "Patanics". Original plan was to go in Museo sector to try the 9b / 5.15b "apocalipsis de la gioconda" free climbed by Jonathan Flor. Yet, cold and humid weather came and pertube the plan. About the grade of No pain no gain, to be in accordance with the other routes I did in Rodellar, 9a / 5.14d could be a good option for me.

via Instagram

Nothing will perturb a climbing trip ! It started with a car broken on the road, continued with huge rain and wet project, to finish with a piece of metal in the eye... Yet we will be here until the end . I fell on the last move of this route on my second day. I was thinking to be able to do it with one more climbing day. Then came the rain and everything was wet. I was hoping that the route get dry quickly. Yet, it's still wet now. I had to reorganize my betas in the wet sequences. I finaly find something ok when I got a piece of metal (quickdraw?) on my eye. I went to emergency, and specialist who remove the metal and told me to keep a patch on the eye during two days (picture 2). I tried climbing with only one eye, yet it was impossible to do 7b... I finally decided to remove the patch for a try in Patanics, and it was the good one . About the grade question, I am thinking it can't be 9b if I compare to my last realizations (Mamichula, Move, and La rage d'Adam). For me it feels closer to 9a/+. Yet the route is 100% my style, that's why my opinion is to propose a downgrade to a 9a+. But it's my opinion, and I am open to discuss with next repetitors. Now on to next projects

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after 9 tries

It's for me the best line in this grade in Rodellar. I did it yesterday, second go on the first day of this trip. I tried it 4 years ago without success. But I think the story of this first day of the trip makes this send more spicy. The night before yesterday I broke my car on the way to Rodellar. Stuck on the road I had two option : take care of the car or leave the car on the road and going anyway to Rodellar. It took me two seconds to decide the second option. I knew that friends were going there and I joined them in their van. We will take care of the car later . Thanks thomas_staudenmeyer and julia.cassou for the hospitality . We took the rain during the morning going in Picineta sector. It was a bad start, yet it was a good end . Now on to the other projects before the Big rain if tommorow.

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kletterblock.de reported

Seb via Insta: "Akira is a legendary piece from the 90's. This route was the first 9b / 5.15b world proposition by Fred Rouhling in 1995. At the time, 9a+ didn't even exist yet. It was a big step for our community."

He told climbing.com: "About the grade, we are thinking this one a bit easier than the number announced," Bouin wrote. "We had the impression to climb a 9a [5.14d] route. It's hard to speak about grade on this historical piece, but we need to be honest."

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