Ascents in World by Jacques Beaudoin having trad-cpr or ascent-date

Enjoyed the beginning practicing my fist-hand and double fists stack. When I got tired of it I just groveled my way up in the most ugly way. Was good fun.

Awesome climb, I found myself giggling it was so ridiculous, absolutely loved it.

Very convenient when you want to sneak in one last climb as it cleans well on rap. Not bad climbing.

Just climbed the true line without thinking about the "not bridging" bullshit. We're not at the gym folks, no red or green holds... I remembered afterwards when I onsighted the direct version few years back it felt just wrong and artificial to eliminate footwork within reach.

Enjoyable hand jams in there, all over too soon

Great day with lots of laughers and not so much actual mm of climbing. I quickly figured out I'm not an offwidth climber. Quote of the day: This is not Rock Climbing, it's Rock Clowning. There were other better quotes but they would too offensive to post here. Oh perhaps... Zac: "What you haven't done this (meaning offwidth) before?" Me: "no, I'm not into anal"

Wow, great climb. Few delightful long moves on (what I perceived as) good hand jams on quite steep territory. It really doesn't look that steep from the ground. Rock is pretty clean and gear is solid as, not advisable for sensitive skin... but I think the prickles inside the crack will eventually clean up nicely with traffic. Ben thought the grade was stiff, I thought it was honest but mmm if I compare to The Kracken, ok it might be a bit harder.

Fourth day on. Sorted out the last moves of the first tier just before the Spinning Blades Traverse, using a pocket jug on the right then easy move left on the first blade. Much easier than the Vidlers crimp fest. There's still a move in the first tier I cannot repeat Did most of the moves of the tier 2 which is chugging along the blades then go back to the ceiling crack in the coolest sequence of the climb so far. Now I stopped at the last blade available for footwork where I believe the crux of the climb is to turn around with last available bad finger jam in the crack and face the truth, I can't see any holds for about a body length before the Ironstone Traverse starts. To be continued...

Good progress today, found a new crimp towards the end of First Tier, linked from the last move of the lower crux to the middle of the Spinning Blades, did lots of subtle cleaning and blunting the blades to keep the rope reasonably safe. Checked out the transition move to the Iron Stone Traverse and found few spots where my fingers fit but this will be ridiculously hard, there's hope at least.

6th day on. Started trying to pink point lower crux up to end of Spinning Blades. Sequence at lower crux is getting there, need to tape first knuckle of left index finger and both pinkies. Worked a bit on the climbs crux to gain Ironstone Traverse, it's real hard. I managed to stem from last good jam reaching just the bad part of Ironstone, seems like I'll need to reset in the two next bad jams to gain control on the transition. Explored the Ironstone Traverse to the alcove which is awesome fun climbing, felt totally unmotivated to go further after pulling on bad rock in the alcove and thought the climb should stop here.

Did about 15 shots this year 2021. Last shot was on pre-placed gear and climbed through all finger lock section and took my first real fall with the second hueco latched but unable to progress to third. Only three moves away from jug! Climbing it placing gear up to aid move is now a short term objective.

FFA. Tried ground up first free ascent but figured out real quick it was safer to clean up few loose chockstones and dirt. Subsequent ascent was FFA of the short version to where a dramatic increasing angle, width and associated difficulty appeared. Again, I always thought Disbelief should not be a proper climb and recorded as such but it's obvious now with increased popularity that the short version of Beyond Belief lives.

Epic onsight in one monster pitch. Loads of gear shuffle to avoid rope drag and avoid running out of #4s. Crux was burly fist jams that made me work real hard but I didn't think I'd fall at any moment. For me doing this climb in one pitch made it truly memorable.

It was all too much, too hard, too chossy, too complex, too concerning for my belayer below. At some stage the rock is too bad to even aid. Didn't make it to the crux and stopped when I asked myself "why am I doing this???" It really made me appreciate how well-rounded is Lee's skillset.

Didn't live up to it's name. The real Supercrack is in Indian Creek. I didn't bother looking at the 2 first pitches. The third pitch was a pleasant 22 up to the two last jams then I had to shift gears a bit so I guess the gr24 is fair. I was quite frankly disappointed to find jugs as I was hoping for a pure crack. I also regret I used some footwork; I should really have kept my feet in the crack all the way, it felt magical when I did. I didn't top out the chimney, just downclimbed when I saw my last cam walking towards an old stuck cam. Overall a good little climb.

First Free Ascent. Very inspiring line that begged to be climbed. Not strictly crack climbing as all footwork is there and the wide crack can be underclung in the same fashion as it's thinner version Gravel Rash at the Underworld. Used #3#2#0.75 for the start anchor then 5x#6 (some shuffled from the very beginning) and #0.75#2 after turning the lip.

Aptly named, I believe the "axe" the route name refers to is a 15m long and thin feature that looks like it could detach from the cliff at any moment! Definitely felt full value for the grade as I didn't trust the rock I was stepping on or pulling on. Otherwise, I think it was a great climb. Fanny followed me and and didn't pull anything off so I guess I was just being paranoid.

Not every day you walk past an unclimbed classic roof crack, you've got the right gear, you've got the right partner and you onsight it ground up cleaning the loose rock on the way up, pull through perfect fists and hands with feet in the crack. Dream. I decided to continue up above the crack to top out on a scary mission on suspicious dinner plates, lose dirt, caving under boulder and emerge trough a hole. I do not recommend that bit! I will go back and clean it properly top down, this climb deserves to be one of the best cracks at the grade in the Blueys and beyond. Fanny agreed, this is an amazing find.

Repeat, this time with the rock as clean as it can get without high traffic. Unfortunately I have to take few stars off after the ecstasy of the ground up first ascent wore out. The rock is all but perfect, It's short and has a sit down rest at the middle. Also, few flakes fell down leaving alternate footwork to the feet in the crack used in the first ascent. Still think it's a great little climb.

Finally completing this long chapter placing all gear from ground to end. This climb is one of a kind.

Got advised to upgrade to 24. Although all holds are big, half the gear is tricky and suspicious and this thing is horizontal. Would be three stars at piddo.

It's pretty rare to come across a climb like this. This line is obvious and screams to be climbed, it's perfectly protected with traditional gear, all the holds are great and interesting with some truely amazing features, length is good, rests are helpful but not lie down type of thing, it's steeeep as, protected from rain, drizzle, sun, wind, name it. Thanks to Anton, outstanding work. Finally something I could redpoint 😂 My ascent was with previous knowledge as I've been up it few times taking a gentleman sit before the crux, then I had the chance to snatch the second ascent with extensive description of gear placements and provided gear so in some ways I wish I would have had the chance of getting this climb onsight but supporting Anton for the first ascent was even better. Again, top work Anton!

Warming up, got a bit more pumped than expected

First attempt to sus out if the first section is somehow possible. My impression is a plain no. No feet, bad jams and wildly steep. So I'll leave this to some kind of mutan and I won't clean it further. This is the shortest and the least attractive part of the line and I'll just fix a rope and jumar up to section two which looks more in the grade 30 range followed by section three looking like gr26.

Second try starting this time at the Section 2. Oh so much nicer than section 1, it climbs soooo well! There are 3-4 moves I have to figure out but looks definitely possible and not too painful for a finger crack. My guess is around grade 30 but could well be easier. Did section 3 to the roof, it felt like salsa dancing, this is a real gem possibly grade 25. Roof is probably approx gr22. Still need to solidify a rattly critical footwork and clean up some broken ironstone but it's getting there. I'm learning to trust the gear as it's mostly yellow Z4. WOW!

Top progress, the crack is very clean now and doesn't hurt too bad. No need for tape, lucky cause that'd wouldn't fit!2 moves I still have to work out how to do.

Could finally do several moves without grabbing the gear

The crux was rather moist today. Hopefully it will get dryer with warmer weather. Good flow on the easier sections.

Drying the triple overhanging finger jam with isopropyl alcohol and blower, a real promising technique. So the current beta is from double crimp, reach high with RH thumb down pinching an tiny ironstone then reach LH very high bad jam thumb up focussing on wedging pinkie down (and it's so thin you have to hammer this home) then drop knee right leg keeping hips in crossing with RH thumb down proper jam (still bad) reaching up with LH thumb up side pull go for crimp right with RH leaning hard right reaching LH on good pocket straight up then you stuffed you have to match so reach out right RH bad crimp no feet move LH out of pocket on that shitty crimp thumb catch so you can cross RH in that pocket finally. Then do what you can with no feet but reach high LH left good jam side pull, left foot up then boom magic knee bar off your left forearm and reach up glory jug RH. This is like 2m of climbing and I didn't describ too much the footwork.

Drying the triple overhanging finger jam with isopropyl alcohol and blower, a real promising technique. So the current beta is from double crimp, reach high with RH thumb down pinching an tiny ironstone then reach LH very high bad jam thumb up focussing on wedging pinkie down (and it's so thin you have to hammer this home) then drop knee right leg keeping hips in crossing with RH thumb down proper jam (still bad) reaching up with LH thumb up side pull go for crimp right with RH leaning hard right reaching LH on good pocket straight up then you stuffed you have to match so reach out right RH bad crimp no feet move LH out of pocket on that shitty crimp thumb catch so you can cross RH in that pocket finally. Then do what you can with no feet but reach high LH left good jam side pull, left foot up then boom magic knee bar off your left forearm and reach up glory jug RH. This is like 2m of climbing and I didn't describ too much the footwork.

Best session so far. The crux is dry despite the recent rain, very good news indeed.

Not feeling as strong today perhaps need a full week between sessions

did good progress linking from crux 1st & 2nd jam established sitting on the rope did 3rd jam, crimp, pocket LH, shuffle 1, shuffle 2, pocket RH, crack sidepull, jug. Found some very useful taping beta right index second pad helps tremendously on ironstone pinch and 2nd jam. Subsequently Nathaniel skipped the shuffle and the crack sidepull to go directly for from pocket LH to jug which makes more sense than the horrible shuffle. I just never contemplated trying, next time.

Warming up and not trying too hard this time. This allowed me to fine tune everything before and after the crux

Break through. Climbed from start anchor to crux entry. From crux jams 2&3 established from rest climbed the remaining 7 moves of the crux then all the way up to under roof. Getting closer to pinkpoint! Major linkups!

No striking progress today, have to accept the slow process

Man that crux is intense, shot #14 right?, that thing has got to be more than gr29

Forgot to tape the RH index critical for the 2nd crux jam. Tried different combinations of fingers but none are solid enough. Friction was very ordinary today. Linked again from crux end pocket to roof exit for the first time. The roof is good fun as expected with heel hooks but the exit looks trickier. I stopped there as it needs more cleaning.