Ascents in World by Jacques Beaudoin having trad-cpr or ascent-date

First attempt to sus out if the first section is somehow possible. My impression is a plain no. No feet, bad jams and wildly steep. So I'll leave this to some kind of mutan and I won't clean it further. This is the shortest and the least attractive part of the line and I'll just fix a rope and jumar up to section two which looks more in the grade 30 range followed by section three looking like gr26.

Second try starting this time at the Section 2. Oh so much nicer than section 1, it climbs soooo well! There are 3-4 moves I have to figure out but looks definitely possible and not too painful for a finger crack. My guess is around grade 30 but could well be easier. Did section 3 to the roof, it felt like salsa dancing, this is a real gem possibly grade 25. Roof is probably approx gr22. Still need to solidify a rattly critical footwork and clean up some broken ironstone but it's getting there. I'm learning to trust the gear as it's mostly yellow Z4. WOW!

Top progress, the crack is very clean now and doesn't hurt too bad. No need for tape, lucky cause that'd wouldn't fit!2 moves I still have to work out how to do.

Could finally do several moves without grabbing the gear

The crux was rather moist today. Hopefully it will get dryer with warmer weather. Good flow on the easier sections.

Drying the triple overhanging finger jam with isopropyl alcohol and blower, a real promising technique. So the current beta is from double crimp, reach high with RH thumb down pinching an tiny ironstone then reach LH very high bad jam thumb up focussing on wedging pinkie down (and it's so thin you have to hammer this home) then drop knee right leg keeping hips in crossing with RH thumb down proper jam (still bad) reaching up with LH thumb up side pull go for crimp right with RH leaning hard right reaching LH on good pocket straight up then you stuffed you have to match so reach out right RH bad crimp no feet move LH out of pocket on that shitty crimp thumb catch so you can cross RH in that pocket finally. Then do what you can with no feet but reach high LH left good jam side pull, left foot up then boom magic knee bar off your left forearm and reach up glory jug RH. This is like 2m of climbing and I didn't describ too much the footwork.

Drying the triple overhanging finger jam with isopropyl alcohol and blower, a real promising technique. So the current beta is from double crimp, reach high with RH thumb down pinching an tiny ironstone then reach LH very high bad jam thumb up focussing on wedging pinkie down (and it's so thin you have to hammer this home) then drop knee right leg keeping hips in crossing with RH thumb down proper jam (still bad) reaching up with LH thumb up side pull go for crimp right with RH leaning hard right reaching LH on good pocket straight up then you stuffed you have to match so reach out right RH bad crimp no feet move LH out of pocket on that shitty crimp thumb catch so you can cross RH in that pocket finally. Then do what you can with no feet but reach high LH left good jam side pull, left foot up then boom magic knee bar off your left forearm and reach up glory jug RH. This is like 2m of climbing and I didn't describ too much the footwork.

Best session so far. The crux is dry despite the recent rain, very good news indeed.

Not feeling as strong today perhaps need a full week between sessions

did good progress linking from crux 1st & 2nd jam established sitting on the rope did 3rd jam, crimp, pocket LH, shuffle 1, shuffle 2, pocket RH, crack sidepull, jug. Found some very useful taping beta right index second pad helps tremendously on ironstone pinch and 2nd jam. Subsequently Nathaniel skipped the shuffle and the crack sidepull to go directly for from pocket LH to jug which makes more sense than the horrible shuffle. I just never contemplated trying, next time.

Warming up and not trying too hard this time. This allowed me to fine tune everything before and after the crux

Break through. Climbed from start anchor to crux entry. From crux jams 2&3 established from rest climbed the remaining 7 moves of the crux then all the way up to under roof. Getting closer to pinkpoint! Major linkups!

No striking progress today, have to accept the slow process

Man that crux is intense, shot #14 right?, that thing has got to be more than gr29

Forgot to tape the RH index critical for the 2nd crux jam. Tried different combinations of fingers but none are solid enough. Friction was very ordinary today. Linked again from crux end pocket to roof exit for the first time. The roof is good fun as expected with heel hooks but the exit looks trickier. I stopped there as it needs more cleaning.

Friction was amazing today. did all moves again and linked most sections. The top section goes down casually now.

Another highpoint to the third jam but the jam wasn't set well enough to progress to the crimp. Sat down and did some fine tuning on the finger jams as they have to be absolutely perfect, then with first jam established did all the way through the crux and section III then through the roof for the first time and exited GR23ish with horrendous rope drag on very easy ground, untied the rope and walked off. GOLD!!!

Felt a bit tired but went for it anyways. Another breakthrough, from crimps at crux entry went all the way to the third jam fully established and ready to hop for the crimp. I backed off there as the next bit would have been a compromise on my elbow rehab.

100% humidity with the light drizzle creeping under the 15m overhang, not the best condos. Still worked out few important details.

Conditions improved greatly to spoogy. Worked out a way to consolidate second jam by progressively pushing fingers in while moving body leftward. Keeping pinky out helps.

Took several falls from mid-crux ending up touching the rock face at start anchor. I felt quite uncomfortable to progress further without being able to clip extra gear. I never contemplated clipping the mid crux nut before but I progressed so much on the start moves that I could clip it with ease! It breaks the flow a bit but frees my mind for the remainder of the crux. I took several falls from the crux end onto the mid-crux nut and the falls are beautiful. Just need my dodgy elbow to hold up and good friction to come back, this was my 21st shot.

No improvements today, friction good on crimps/pockets but average in crack. Felt weak as a rag, at least I did the roof exit again which is just tricky enough, it's a great feeling to top out, I managed rope drag better this time staying left and out on easy ground. Shot#22

Warming up, although the crack looks dry you can feel the water table pushing through the rock pores.

Slipping off the triple jam every single move, cruised trough the crux end and the top, this is easy now no real need to rest, stopped at roof cause it's a pain in the ass to walk back down.

Trying triple jam multiple times, it's just not working today, didn't make it through the hand shuffle either, nice fall at least... OMG shot #25... this is becoming a real siege.

Skipped the pocket clip which is not only saving the strenuous clip itself but all the footwork shuffle related. No longer need to use the pocket. Although the crack isn't wet at crux, colour is brown which means sub-optimal, anything sub-optimal makes the whole thing impossible for me. Strategy now is to warmup climbing to crux and lower off. Rest and jug back up the rope to crux with blower and ISO Alcohol, bring it back to white bone dry and tram back to start anchor, rethread and fire up within 10min otherwise condos go back to sub-optimal brown. Tried with tape on RH middle finger 2nd pad but finger won't get in, tried crux again with no tape at all, not working without RH index 2nd pad taped. Felt really strong at crux entry reaching high with minimal effort. Climbed up to hand shuffle and stopped to save my elbow tendons, took the fall there, nice clean fall onto mid-crux nut. Shot 26

Friction ok as the mist doesn't seem to reach under the roof with easterlies. Low pocket proved useful at resetting the start pinch. Found new footwork at double crimp so I can now breath and chalk prior to crux entry. Extended crux nut so not much rope to pull out to clip. High point hopping for third jam with second jam half way in, then did triple jam sequence 5 times working on details falling only once. Understand now better the first jam is now almost a side pull high Left foot Drop knee right and bring shoulders more in line with the crack so the cross over RH to second jam thumb down can be established properly. Then feet straight under I need to work on my RH scapular pull to reach LH third jam. Stopped at crux crimp avoiding wearing myself out doing pocket hand shuffle etc. Shot#27

Dreadful conditions, building up muscle memory. Climbed up to the roof, just fantastic climbing. Shot #28

Warming up, felt slippery (85% humidity), destroyed another yellow X4

Although I was a smidge under the highpoint this was my best shot at it. I felt that was it. Felt strong at every moves until I botched the backstep reaching crux 2nd jam, it popped and down I went.

Went straight down to start anchor from shot #2 and rested few minutes and went for it. Not bad got to 2nd jam on tips only and desperately leaped for third jam. Worked on the crux several times but I guess I was too tired. Did the rest of the climb with difficulty and topped out. Just measured the rope length between the start anchor and topout where you can untie the rope is 24m.

Belayer had no harness so just played safe with the tree belay and aided to TR crux. From Entry crimps all the way to pocket twice in a row, even did the hand shuffle at the second go. This is the first time I linked through the crux from entry. I did several other tries focussing on moving from 2nd to 3rd jam and noticed going from 3 layers to 4 layers on RH index made an amazing difference. Humidity was 67% and crack was showing some white chalk instead the usual brown. Shot 32.

Humidity 92%, good shot though, didn't get second jam perfect, still went for third without success

Highpoint! Second jam was quite good, still, kept pushing fingers in further, got third jam, then crimp, left foot up, botch the trow for the pocket. I never fell for the pocket before, I had still plenty left in the tank I think I was just too surprised! Once I have the pocket, there's still the hand shuffle and wrist kneebar to do but these moves are nowhere as hard as the 2nd jam.

good shot, didn't get second jam perfect, third jam just tips in, not a chance

Humidity over 95%. Ultra efficient on the start: the start is now becoming a formality and takes a mere 30s to get through. Got up to third jam but on tips.

Humidity dropping to a crispy 84%. Got 2nd jam perfect but got all uncoordinated on getting the third.

failed at third jam, lowered to crux entry crimps and without too much rest went through the complete crux section then topped out, this is a major overlapped one sitter. By this time, sun was shinning down the creek and licking the overhang angle, I had the sun in my eyes at the last move of the crux. Humidity was down to an amazing sub 60% and I could see the difference in the colour of the rock. Bring on the friction! Oh I measured the angle of the crux section at 60deg overhanging, pfff no wonder why finger locks don't feel that great!

Felt a tad slippery despite 20deg and sub 60%H. Fell off second jam.

Felt totally slimy and now 45%H and only 23deg, fell off at beginning after RH gaston. What is going on?

Felt even more slimy as %H goes down, gave up at pinch, it's pointless.

Managed my way to crux, fell off 2nd jam again. Only positive is I felt two major fine tuning differences: drop the knee deep before 2nd jam, with imperfect 2nd jam, reposition LH foot up whilst keeping drop knee solid, that's the exact position where the 2nd jam becomes solid enough to progress and bring body inline with crack.

Great condos 17deg 50%H. Was weak on start at gaston, fell off at 2nd jam not touching 3rd

Wow felt so strong, still not enough, 2nd jam perfect fell with one pad in 3rd jam

Solid as, still had to reset 2nd jam, two pads in 3rd jam very marginal, fell next move with the crimp didn't quite latch.

Great conditions. Skipping gear at the start makes me somehow nervous and is counterproductive atm. Fell off going for 3rd jam. More micro details: 2nd jam reset works very well with left foot up and drop knee. Tape beta was most probably wrong for the last few sessions, needs to be closer to second knuckle. When going for 3rd jam keep right leg straight down instead of flagging, left foot pointing rather than edging

Fell off going for 3rd jam.

Fell off going for 3rd jam.

Conditions ok, 72%RH. Bad 1st lock, bad 2nd lock, foot popped at reset

2nd lock felt quite good but could not progress from it. Repeated reach to 3rd lock with disconcerting ease about 7 times to find that the RH index tape creeped towards the first knuckle and this might be the key to the crux. Next try I'll tape towards 1st knuckle. Shot 50.

After two weeks, can't expect too much. Conditions ordinary but not bad, after all that rain the crack isn't seeping at all like if nothing happened. Struggled again at beginning gaston to wedge pocket, need to sort this out, should be easy. Got a bit too excited with the tape on first knuckle and it just didn't get in 2nd lock. Removed one layer (3tot) and was better but nothing like last session, need 4 towards 1st knuckle but not onto it... finally got through to the hand shuffle but couldn't cross under, need to work on crimp/pinch strength.

Sorted out gaston to wedge pocket. I was trying to get vertical push with two fingers on top of gaston but it's pointless; better full gaston and get the lift from footwork, back to easy... that's good. Tape was as best latest beta 4 layers towards 1st knuckle, felt ok but not cruisy and didn't stick 3rd lock. Then struggled at cross under on hand shuffle fell off there too. Aided back to RH in pocket and cruised to topout. Top part is unreal just too good.

Conditions quite good. Had to fight through lower section, I thought this was sorted, not. Too much tape again index didn't get in ok, well I thought this was sorted too... sta down at crux trying all combinations of taping until chunks of skin started to peel off at 1st knuckle, So I decided to cover the now bloddy first knuckle with one layer and 4 between knuckles, that worked marginally. I figured out that even though I was torquing a lot so the fingers are locking, well that wasn't enough. So latest beta is torque as much as you can, then torque more.

Sounded like I had the winning recipe... Fell off "before" 2nd lock oh dear. Started from crimps and this time it worked really well, fell off at hand shuffle

Conditions felt quite good despite a shocking 99% RH, I probably ignore relative humidity from now on... Felt strong on all moves, forgot to clip crux nut than reassessed/realised and clipped, too much tape... index didn't get in 2nd lock... feels like the goldilocks story too much/not enough ;-)

Felt super strong unreal, botched 2nd lock didn't get third

Total control, 2nd lock perfect, not enough juice to pull to establish 3rd perfect, still kept going, didn't stick crimp, lowered to crux entry crimps and climbed effortlessly through all locks, struggled at shuffle but kept going then topout is a formality. This is happening soon.

Perfect conditions, perfect execution until I didn't dropknee enough and 2nd lock not deep, there goes down the dominos.

Shot #60

RH34% Still struggling with start Gaston, tape overlaps too close, need 2mm between layers, fell off and lock

RH30% Almost fell off start Gaston slipping, fell off tips in 3rd lock desperately going for crimp

RH30% Got back to pinkie on top of Gaston and gained some traction, still not cruisy, I was so in control on that one, perfect 2nd lock, took my time to reach up for 3rd but one split second before locking, 2nd failed. Did multiple overlaps from entry crimps to crux crimp to warm down.

Spoogy today, no chances, only good point is I'm getting a hold on that start that was bothering me, def pinkie on top at gaston. 2nd lock was so bad that I didn't even try going for the third.

Spoogy, still got better at start and gaston move will hopefully compromise the crux section anymore. At least try to ge 3rd lock but didn't even touch it. Decided that was it for the day and added some milleage going from Entry crimps through crux locks up to hand shuffle about 4x in a row without too much fuss