Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sport | |||||
5 | Voor Jos
Features a straight line through stalactite like rock. After the terasse (midway) the terrain changes to slightly sharp rock. Two tophooks, no further bolting. The route is dedicated to Jos Schilt who died in 1996 at the age of 22. Set: 1996 | 23m, 6 | Grapefield | ||
5 | Hard/Suf
Lower level technical with small sharp grips. Upper level comparable to Voor Jos. Tophooks, no further bolting. Set: 1996 | 23m | Grapefield | ||
5+ | Terug naar Osdorp
Start by following the crack, then straight up. First route to be climbed on the lead in this area. Typical route for this sector. Osdorp is a suburban area of Amsterdam. Set: Igor Monzon, 1996 | 23m | Grapefield | ||
6a+ | Warawara Dream
De route gaat eerst recht omhoog ,daarna een naar rechts door het grote gat en dan de uitklim recht omhoog. In het gat zit een bijennest! Start to the far right near the crack. Follow the hooks and cross to the right when you reach the big hole. Runout is through the gully. Slightly overhanging terrain. The keypassage is above the hole. Set: Igor Monzon, 1997 | 23m, 6 | Grapefield | ||
6b | May the Force be with you
Discontinued route. Loopt omhoog door mooi terrein waarna een dak volgt met paar harde passen. Features a straight line through a large roof. The runout is to the right of Warawara Dream. When fully equipped there is a considerable ropefriction. Set: Igor Monzon, 1997 | 23m | Grapefield | ||
5+ | The Power of the Schwartz
Naar boven via de colonettes en dan traverse naar links onder het grote dak door. UItklim om de hoek, links van uitklim Warawara Dream. Follow the line through the "stalactites" and traverse to the left while following the hooks. Not suitable for toproping. The bolts on top are shared with "May the force be with you". When climbed on the lead there is a considerable ropefriction on top. Watch the runout, which is straight up from the last hook! Set: Erik Suijker, 1997 | 23m | Grapefield | ||
6b | Tears for Fears
Grapefield klassieker, fraaie lijn met gaten en colonettes. Markeert de grens tussen linker en rechter deel sector. A classic, which features overhanging terrain with good grips. Follow the "tears" and the bolts. As they say in Dutch: the venom is in the tail! The bolts on top are not easy to reach when climbing on the lead. Toproping is possible, but the edge is very sharp, which makes it an obstacle of some weight. herbehaakt 11/2008 Set: Erik Suijker, 1997 | 23m, 8 | Grapefield | ||
Gino Gino
As the mysterious Gino has left an obvious mark, the route is named after him. Tophooks. Set: 1996 | 23m | Grapefield | |||
6a+ | Avenida Diagonal
Volg de haken, eerst schuin naar linksboven, dan korte travers naar rechts en dan weer schuin naar linksboven. Uitklim rechtsboven. Features a line to the left. Follow the different "balconies". The runout is slightly to the right. Herbehaakt 11/2008 Set: 1996 | 23m | Grapefield | ||
6a | This is Grapefield
Klassieker, alle typen rots van Grapefield in één route te vinden. De lijn is gewoon recht naar boven. Straight line which features all terrain types of the rocks of Grapefield. Two bolts on top. Set: 1996 | 23m, 7 | Grapefield | ||
5+ | ★ Pure Garbage
In begin licht overhangend en daarna even rustig en dan scherpe, relatief grote grepen recht omhoog. Set: 1996 | 23m | Grapefield | ||
4 | ★ El Novato
Wederom lichte route. Set: 1996 | 23m | Grapefield | ||
5+ | Absurdismo
Zeer scherpe rots. Pijn is fijn?? Set: 1996 | 23m | Grapefield | ||
5 | ★ Machismo
Karakter rots als Absurdismo Set: 1996 | 23m | Grapefield | ||
5+ | ★ Masochismo
Scherp, mooi scheur die je kan volgen. Set: 1996 | 23m | Grapefield | ||
7c | Otra Mano “Pa” el Pulpo
FA: Josué Millo & Reiniel Sosa, 2005 | 14m, 9 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b+ | Babalú Ayé
1
6a+
35m
2
6b
33m
3
6b+
37m
4
6b
30m
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Craig Luebben, 2001 | 140m, 4 | Mogote de los Hoyos | ||
7a | Hemorroides de Acero
| 90m | Sierra Galeras | ||
6c+ | Ruta Bely
| Sierra Galeras | |||
7a | Alimentando Mosquitos
| 50m | Sierra Ancón | ||
5.10d | ★★★ Las Nenas del Desierto
Resistance on good holds. Highly recommended. Set: Quini Cordero | 17m, 11 | Cerro Quemado | ||
5.10d | ★★ Poc a Poc variante
Starting left a bit higher up on the block. | 11m, 7 | Cerro Quemado | ||
5.11b | ★★ El Culto
Resistance on mostly good holds. Highly recommended. Set: Quini Cordero | 14m, 8 | Cerro Quemado | ||
5.10c | ★★ El Arete
Shares the same bolts as "LNFS" but uses the arete for the entire duration of the route. There used to be a lower reunion, the grade up to this point was 5.9. Now the reunion is higher and requires a technical crux move, increasing the grade. Set: Miguel Arango | 17m, 11 | Cerro Quemado | ||
5.10c | ★★ Dulce Jiba
Nice near-vertical face. Grading doesn't allow use of the crack on the right. Set: Miguel Arango | 11m, 6 | Cerro Quemado | ||
5 | Pantalones Apretados
FA: Josué Millo, 2003 | 14m | Campismo Area | ||
6a | Vaca y Pollito
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Javier Leivas, 2003 | 14m | Campismo Area | ||
6b | Cuenta con la Pelóna
1
5
2
5
3
6b
4
6b
| 110m, 4 | Campismo Area | ||
6a+ | Makandal
| 35m | Campismo Area | ||
7c | ★★ Madam Gruchenca
hard crux on small holds moving right after the third bolt. Easy after the ledge FA: Anibal Fernandez & Josue Millo | 14m | Campismo Area | ||
6c+ | Naufrajio
| 14m | Campismo Area | ||
6c+ | Titanic
| 30m | Campismo Area | ||
6b+ | Arco de Josué
FA: David Ryan & Josué Millo, 2005 | 25m, 10 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6a+ | Aserejé
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Alberto Leivas, 2003 | 20m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b | Rasta Crack
FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2003 | 20m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6c | Dulce de Coco
FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2002 | 30m, 9 | Mogote del Valle | ||
7a | Katja Me Punza
FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2003 | 14m, 7 | Mogote del Valle | ||
7a | El Salto de la Pelúa
FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2003 | 10m, 5 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6c | ★★★ Ana Banana
Climbs up the steep face just left of the corner on great pockets. Shares first bolt with Pikín. FA: Abel Pérez, 2002 | 23m, 9 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b+ | ★★ Pikín
This route climbs the corner with nice laybacking up to the right wall. Shares first bolt with Ana Banana. FA: Abel Pérez, 2002 | 22m, 8 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b | Bititi
FA: Aníbal Fernández | 17m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6c | Tiburón Siguato
FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2003 | 6m, 4 | Mogote del Valle | ||
7a+ | Tacto Rectal
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Josué Millo, 2003 | 15m, 5 | Mogote del Valle | ||
7b | Miseria Prieta
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Josué Millo, 2003 | 14m, 5 | Mogote del Valle | ||
4 | La Yunta
FA: Jorge Luís Mederos, 2001 | 14m, 8 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6a | Negrita
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Fernando Paulete, 2001 | 30m, 9 | Mogote del Valle | ||
7a+ | Habla Bien
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 30m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7a+ | Béjuco Colorado
FA: David Brasco & Rosa Catalá, 2001 | 30m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7c | Vida Ingrata
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 30m | Mogote del Valle | ||
8a | Vibración Interior
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 30m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6c | Polvo Piojillo
FA: David Brasco & Rosa Catalá, 2001 | 30m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7b | Carcharodón
FA: David Brasco & Rosa Catalá, 2001 | 30m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6c+ | ★★ Ranas Pelúas L1
FA: David Brasco, Rosa Catalá & Nivaldo Díaz, 2001 | 30m, 7 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6a | ★★ El Fantasma de la Ópera
FA: Alberto Leivas & Yarobys García, 2007 | 30m, 9 | Mogote del Valle | ||
7a | ★ La Vida es Bella
FA: Josué Millo & Jordi Tejero, 2002 | 30m, 8 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b | Muerte Blanca
FA: Yarobys García & Fransuá Bosmenier, 2007 | 20m, 9 | Mogote del Valle | ||
7a+ | Salta Pa’lo Chapeáo
FA: Josué Millo & Adrián Pérez | 20m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7b | El Beso de la Avispa
FA: Martín Moline & Ariel Pascualetti | 20m, 9 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6a | Julia Merece
FA: Josué Millo & Julien | 25m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b | Avispicidio
FA: David Brasco & Aníbal Fernández, 2001 | 25m, 5 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6c+ | Malaje
| 25m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b | Una Larga Amistad Con Dos Bolas de Cariño
| 25m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6c+ | Mis Dos Spits
| 30m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7b+ | Medio Bandido
| 30m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6a+ | Guao, Guano, y Espina
| 80m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7a | A Mulatazo Limpio
FA: Aníbal Fernández & David Brasco, 2000 | 30m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6c+ | ★ Huevos Verdes con Jamón
1
6b
30m
2
6c+
30m
FA: Aníbal Fernández & Vitalio Echazábal, 2000 | 60m, 2, 13 | Mogote del Valle | ||
7c+/8a | ¡Hay Papito!
FA: David Brasco, 2001 | 30m, 10 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6a | ★★ Comiquita
Route on the left-side of the cliff. Has a lower (though still high) first bolt than the others. Climb up and onto the base of a palm tree, then up the semi-circle rain groove (dihedral) above to anchors. FA: Josué Millo, 2005 | 20m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6a | ★★ Pitú
Middle climb on the cliff -- climbs up to the right-most of the two rain grooves at the top of the cliff. Really high first bolt -- but can "borrow" the first bolt or two from "Mojaita" to reduce the run-out. FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2001 | 20m, 6 | Mogote del Valle | ||
5+ | ★★ Mojaita
Face climbing on the right-side; starts easy and finishes steeper. FA: Reinier Sosa, 2005 | 20m | Mogote del Valle | ||
4+ | ★★ El Puso El Bolt
Climb the vegetated groove up the left-side of the main face. Be careful if lowering-off with a 60m rope, as it is a rope-stretcher. FA: Vitalio Echazábal & Carlos Pinelo, 2001 | 31m | Mogote del Valle | ||
5+ | ★★ Ojos Carmelitas
Climb the bolt line up the middle of the face, initially trending leftwards. Gets sharp in the final 1/3. FA: Neil Gresham, 2002 | 30m | Mogote del Valle | ||
5 | ★ El Repaso
The bolt line up the right side of the face -- steep and sustained for the grade. FA: Vitalio Echazábal, 2001 | 28m, 9 | Mogote del Valle | ||
4 | Guides Route
Climb the arete along the left side of the cliff. | 12m | Mogote del Valle | ||
5 | ★ Dos Palmas
This route is about 10m right of "Cucarachón". | 15m | Mogote del Valle | ||
5 | Cuerpo Colorado
Not really sure where this climb is.... | 6m | Mogote del Valle | ||
5 | ★★ Eternos Jóvenes
This climb is in the jungle, about 30m left of "Torre Blanca". Be prepared to have to pull down the occasional thorn-vine if you climb this. The 2009 guide-book grades it "4+", but it is noticeably harder than this -- comparable to the harder 5+ routes in the Ensenada. FA: Scott Cole, 2001 | 21m, 4 | Mogote del Valle | ||
5+ | ★★ Torre Blanca
Climb the light grey pillar on the left of the cliff. The route finishes behind the top of the pillar, but one bolt was missing from the anchor – if still the case, rap off another route’s anchor on the left side of the pillar. FA: David Ryan & Paul Tichner, 2000 | 15m, 4 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6a+ | ★★ Filo de Cuchilla
1
6a+
25m
2
6a
30m
A classic for its grade. FA: David Ryan, Armando Menocal & Carlos Pinelo, 2000 | 55m, 2, 11 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6a+ | Hara Kiri
The right variant of the second pitch of Filo de Cuchilla. FA: Aníbal Fernández, 2001 | 25m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7a+ | Saca Chispas
| 15m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7b+ | ★★★ The Wasp Factory
Start left of the block and follow the tufa line up to an anchor just right of the big stalactite. Great steep climbing on mostly good holds and a cool move over to the final tufa, one of the best lines in Viñales. | 25m, 10 | Mogote del Valle | ||
8a+ | The Colony
This is The Wasp Factory with its extension. FA: Neil Gresham, 2002 | 30m, 15 | Mogote del Valle | ||
8a | Esplendidos
FA: Tim Emmett, 2002 | 24m, 10 | Mogote del Valle | ||
8b | The One Inch Punch
This is Esplendidos with its extension. FA: Tim Emmett, 2002 | 30m, 15 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b+ | La Mierda
| Mogote del Valle | |||
6c+ | La Playa - left
1
6c+
2
6c+
The left variant for the second pitch. | 2, 10 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b+ | Chimeneando
| 25m | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b+ | ★★ Totisnao
| 25m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7a | ★★ A Martillazo Limpio
| 30m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7c | Quien Dijo Miedo Habiendo Hospitales?
1
6c+
2
7c
FA: Josué Millo, 2002 | 28m, 2 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6a+ | ★★★ RM
Starts left of the tunnel entrance and right of the next alcove, left of the tree. Big tufas and stalactites lead the way to the top ledge. Shares anchor with Chao Pescao. Great warm-up. (While it may not sound like a lot of bolts, they are where you need them and the falls are generally pretty clean. So a reasonable climb even if this is the opposite of a warm-up.) | 25m, 6 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b+ | ★ Puro Cubano pitch 1
| 25m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7a+ | ★★ Puro Cubano
1
6b+
25m
2
3+
17m
3
7a+
20m
This route climbs the left edge of the tunnel entrance.
Lower down from the top to the stairs. Easier to clean pitch 1 in top rope. FA: Vitalio Echazábal, Armando Menocal & David Ryan, 2000 | 62m, 3, 8 | Mogote del Valle | ||
6b+ | ★★ Cubanitos en la Red
Same start as Puro Cubano but head right after bolt 2. FA: Josué Millo, 2002 | 24m | Mogote del Valle | ||
7b | Unnamed 1
This is a second pitch of Cubanitos en la Red leaving the anchor towards the left. FA: Los Titos | 15m | Mogote del Valle | ||
Unnamed 2
This is a second pitch of Cubanitos en la Red leaving the anchor towards the right. | 15m | Mogote del Valle | |||
7a | Camino al Infierno
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 15m, 7 | Mogote del Valle | ||
7b | Los Tres Mosqueteros
FA: Josué Millo & Alberto Leivas, 2005 | 7m, 3 | Mogote del Valle |