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Routes as trad in Newfoundland

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 120 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Avalon Peninsula St. John's Holyrood Holyrood Main Wall
5.9 Sunny Side Up

This route needs to be cleaned. Currently it sits under a carpet of lichen and moss. I tried to lead it once and ended up wandering a lot, straying far from the original line. Might be worth cleaning up.

Protection Standard Rack

Trad 29m
5.10 X Balls to the Wall

Description This route needs to be cleaned and is a great candidate for bolting. There are no gear placements until 40 feet up, well after the crux, from which you would take a long ground fall. The end is runout as well, with reachy, hard moves on mossy rock.

Protection Your climbing ability, mostly. Or toprope it. Standard rack for the easy climbing in the middle of the route.

Trad 29m
5.8 PG13 The Streak

Description The classic route at the crag. Unfortunately, the namesake streak has faded away. Exciting (i.e slightly runout) slabby climbing leads past 2 bolts and horizontal cracks, which have great cam, tricam or nut placements. The climbing becomes easier and better protected as you approach the top, with a memorable finish.

Protection 2 bolts, standard rack from micro to 2 Camalot

2 bolt rappel anchor. Knot the ends of the rope, a 60m rope is enough to get down but it's close.

FA: J. Presswood

Mixed trad 29m, 2
5.7 Slippery When Wet

P1: Crux pitch. The bottom feels a bit harder than 5.7, but it quickly eases up as you get higher. Use caution going for the 3rd bolt as there are some ledges below. P2: Fun climbing on horizontal cracks. Some gear can be used to supplement the bolts in the runouts. P3: Similar to Pitch 2. Gear can supplement the bolts to keep the climber from potentially hitting the ledge.

Location Central on the main wall, between "The Streak" and "You'll Understand When You Get There".

Protection Each pitch has an anchor with chains for rappelling.

A set of nuts and a few smaller tricams for the shallow horizontal cracks.

Can get down in two rappels with a 60m rope if you rap to the anchor above "The Streak" from the third belay.

FA: Len Zedel & Greg Locke

Trad 45m, 3
5.8 You'll Understand When You Get There

Description Squeeze past trees and shrubs (easy terrain) to get to the base of a nice double crack system. The cracks have been cleaned recently, making this route a fun and well protected choice at the crag.

Protection Standard Rack

Trad 18m
5.7 PG13 Biggie Fries

Description This almost-sport route can be led without gear, but has ground fall potential on easier terrain. Better to bring a handful of small cams. The movement is fun, and it is one of the less mossy routes at the crag, because people clean it every few years. Worth doing.

Protection Draws, handful of small-med cams

Trad 18m
5.4 Slab Crackin'

Description Climb the striking crack feature starting immediately behind the bench. The climbing is easy the whole way and the gear is excellent making this one of the best routes around for a beginner trad climber.

Protection 1 bolt and gear to 2". Anchor with rappel hardware on top.

Mixed trad 27m, 1
5.9 A Sea of Green

Description Very easy climbing past horizontal cracks leads to a hard crux at a bolt, and a short runout to the anchors. Falls may not be the cleanest at the crux, due to the slabby rock below.

Protection Standard rack

Mixed trad 21m, 1
5.6 Digging For Gold

Description Start 20 feet left of Thin Blue Line, on a small ledge next to a small stump. Climb left along a horizontal crack, go straight up to a bolt and then to the right towards two finger cracks. Follow these cracks past a bulge then up easier terrain to the anchor.

Location Up a secondary trail right of Slab Crackin'. Follow this short trail to the wall, scramble up a bit of mossy terrain to the ledge where the route starts.

Protection Standard rack to 3", emphasis on finger sized cams

FA: David Bruneau

Trad 30m
Avalon Peninsula St. John's The Talc Mines
5.10b Unknown (5.10 Slab)

Description Climb past a ledge to clip the first bolt then face climb past 2 more bolts (crux). Continue straight up to a diagonal crack (gear) then move up on easier, blocky climbing to a bulge with a final bolt. Pull the bulge using good holds to the anchor on the ledge.

Location The leftmost route on the tall slabby face.

Protection 4 bolts, at least one cam for the diagonal crack (orange metolius cam or .5 camalot). Anchor has no rappel hardware but the ledge can be reached by walking in from the left. Very long cordalette needed.

Mixed trad 18m, 4
5.11b Unknown (5.11 face)

Description The best bolted route at the Talc Mine. Climb the slab past a bolt to a diagonal crack (gear). Climb the diagonal crack for 10 feet until the second bolt can be reached via good holds. Follow the line of bolts past a vertical section with precarious climbing (crux) to easy ground. Scramble to the top, placing a couple pieces of gear on the way. Location The middle bolted line on the slab/face

Protection 6 bolts, gear, long slings. Top anchor has no rap hardware, can easily be reached from the top. Bring loads of cordalette, the rock has sharp edges near the lip.

Gear beta: Blue and yellow tcu size for the diagonal crack, larger camalots for the top (any two cams from .5 to #3 should work)

Mixed trad 24m, 6
5.10 Unknown (5.10 or 5.11 face)

Another path with a few bolts. Really hard without touching the right arête, but it's a contrived eliminate, less hard with it in.

Mixed trad 24m, 6
5.7 The Search for Gold

Description Not what one would normally call a "good" route but an interesting outing. Climb up some slabby rock passing the crux before entering the big chimney. Walk deep into the chimney and squeeze through some chockstones towards an opening. This puts you in a cave where you can exit to the other side of the formation. Helmets are definitely a good idea.

Protection A few cams, a few long slings.

FA: L. Loader/D. Bruneau

Trad 24m
Avalon Peninsula St. John's DFO Zombie Wall
5.10b Zombie Mummers

Start on easier moves in the vertical crack. The harder moves begins when the pro runs out and the bolts begin.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2010

Trad 40m
5.10b Son of Zombie Mummers

Follow the vertical crack until you reach the roof. Traverse right under the roof and continue on up the crack until you reach the line of bolts. The lower trad section goes much easier than the upper section that is protected with bolts.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2010

Trad 40m
5.9 An Drouiz Ijinek

Start in the crack and then climb the slab face above.

FA: Kevin Le Morzadec, 2010

Trad 35m
5.10a An Ankou

Follow the large crack (eventually becomes off width) in the dihedral to the top.

FA: Kevin Le Morzadec, 2010

Trad 35m
5.9 Old Zombie Baymen

Follow the route up a few bolts (the same as the start for Deep water zombies) until you reach the roof. Climb to the right of the roof and over and then follow the crack to the top.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2010

Trad 35m
Avalon Peninsula St. John's DFO Spirit Wall
5.8 Indian Dreams

Start at the ocean and finish in the trees. Loosely follows the arete with some face climbing mixed in.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2016

Trad 45m
5.8 Liberty Cap

A shorter version of Indian dreams with an alternate finish. Doesn't start as close to the ocean which may be good on a rough day. Good beginner trad route as there are bolts in areas where the gear placements are not perfect.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2016

Trad 35m
5.9 Yagé

Climb to the right of the large crack along the face

FA: Kevin Le Morzadec, 2016

Trad 40m
5.9 Pycilocyban

From the bottom anchor climb to the right and up the small crack. When nearing the top leave the crack and climb the face to the left.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2016

Trad 45m
5.9 Vision Quest

Starts the same as Pycilocyban but follows the crack all the way to the top.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2016

Trad 45m
5.9 Peyote

Climb to the right, from the bottom anchors, and then straight up

FA: Kevin Le Morzadec, 2016

Trad 40m
5.9 Nirvana

Start the same as Peyote but follow the crack to the right. Clip the bolt on the face to the left as the crack ends and follow a new crack to the right and on up.

FA: Kevin Le Morzadec, 2016

Trad 40m
Avalon Peninsula St. John's DFO Jellyfish Wall
5.8 Gelatinous Zooplankton

Following the wavering crack to the top.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2016

Trad 20m
5.9 Cyanea Capillata

Follow the dihedral like crack to the top.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2016

Trad 20m
5.10 R Pee Stream

Follow the crack straight up. Gets a bit run out about half way up.

FA: Kevin Le Morzadec, 2016

Trad 20m
5.10- Stinger

Follow the obvious crack straight up and to the top.

FA: Kevin Le Morzadec, 2016

Trad 20m
5.7 Bloom

Start the same as Moon Jelly but follow the crack up and to the left.

FA: Kevin Le Morzadec, 2016

Trad 30m
5.7 Moon Jelly

Start in the large crack down by the water. Climb the crack and continue up the face on the right.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2016

Trad 30m
Avalon Peninsula St. John's Flight Path
5.7 Flight School

Description Follow the line of jugs up the right side of the face until you reach the top.

Location From the base of the main area, traverse left over the water for approx 35ft, until you reach the base of a vertical wall.

Protection Build a gear anchor at the top for top roping, Shallow water solo

FA: Lewis Loader

Trad 8m
5.6 Change Course

Description From the traverse, climb up onto the slab then make a couple of exposed moves through the overhang, exit the left side and gain the top.

Location From the base of the main area, traverse left over the water for approx 30ft before finding yourself at the bottom of a steep looking corner

Protection Build a gear anchor to top rope, Shallow water solo.

FA: Lewis Loader

Trad 9m
5.3 Flying Solo

Description The face next to the "Auto Pilot" corner can be climbed at an easier grade. Jug haul up the slab.

While this route appeared to have good pro in horizontal cracks, I don't believe it has been led, only free soloed.

Location 10 feet left of Auto Pilot. Accessed by traversing over the water, which is probably the most difficult part of the climb.

Protection Cams in horizontals, gear anchor up top (if leading)

FA: David Bruneau, 2014

Trad 15m
5.4 Auto Pilot

Description On the opposite side of the gorge from the other routes, there is an appealing low-angle corner over the water. This climb can be led by building an anchor and rappelling in or traversing over water to the base (about the same grade as the climb, with no pro). In any event, the corner is fun and would be a classic easy pitch if it was longer and was easier to get to.

Protection Gear anchors at the top and bottom of the climb + standard rack.

FA: Phil Stennett & Alexe Hanlon

Trad 17m
Avalon Peninsula St. John's Quidi Vidi Breakwater Wall
5.7 Light

Easy trad route just to the right of the main wall.

Trad 12m
5.6 Day Boil

Description Start at a vertical crack and climb up past a bulge to easier slab. Getting up past the bulge is the only part at around 5.6, the rest of the climb is a few grades lower. Location Leftmost climb on the slabs to the right of the main wall. Protection 2 bolts are easily accessed from above. A 5m cord is suitable to build the anchor.

Trad 16m
5.4 Toprope Route A

2 Glue-ins at the top for an easy ramble designed for guiding. With a 70M rope can be done on an M setup for two topropes with 'the adjacent route.

Trad 16m
Toprope Route B

Another set of glue-ins with top bolts designed for guiding

Trad 16m
Toprope Route C

A third route designed for guiding

Trad 16m
Avalon Peninsula St. John's Prosser's Rock
5.8 Main Route

starts up the centre crack and moves right around halfway. follow some small crimps until you reach better holds then proceed diagonally left up to the anchor

Trad 12m
5.10a Straight Up

Start in the centre crack as you would for Main Route but continue straight up the middle once you reach halfway.

FA: L. van Ulden

Trad 12m
5.9 Lefty

Start the same as per Main Route up the centre crack, but around halfway look for a big move left and finish at the anchor

FA: I. Coffin

Trad 12m
Avalon Peninsula Flatrock Main Face
5.9 Boogie Wonderland

Description Starts on 4 bolts of face climbing through small holds and crimps, might feel like 5.10 around 3rd bolt (crux) until you figure out the beta. Top section contains easier climbing following a widening crack from wide hands to offwidth. Two very different styles of climbing but enjoyable throughout. I found a perfect rack to be 2x #3 and a #4, but could definitely safely climb without a #4, or sew the top section up with a #5, #6.

There is lots of loose rock above this climb, I trundled all the large stuff I could, and rock shouldn't be disturbed if the rap anchor is used, but caution is always advised.

Location At the beginning of Main Face in the blasted section. on the left face of a corner, often shaded when other routes are sunny.

Protection 4 bolts, gear 2"-4", rappel anchor

FA: Madison Bailey, 4 Oct 2022

Mixed trad 20m, 4
5.8 It'll Be Fine

Description Start in thin cracks on blocks before stepping right into the wide crack. A variety of jams and / or face holds in and around the crack can be used to reach the top.

Location The obvious wide crack around 20ft left of MC Hammer.

Protection Standard rack with bigger gear. Probably want a #5 if it's at your limit. Bolt anchor.

FA: Phil Stennett

Trad 12m
5.10a MC Hammer

Scramble up a block to start and then up a finger crack to a rappel anchor at the top. Standard rack <1",

FA: R. La'Paix, 2003

Trad 20m
5.9 Five Fingers

Start left of the corner and climb in the corner past the bolt until a ledge on the right. Then follow a hand crack to the top. Two-bolt rappel anchor suitable for top-roping. Standard rack <3"

FA: P. Chaisson, 2006

Mixed trad 20m, 1
5.9 Iron Hand

Start under the first bolt and go diagonally right into the corner. Climb through the roof while avoiding the ledge to the left. The ledge is good for a rest but it makes your next few moves more difficult. Finish at rappel anchor. Standard rack <2".

FA: J. Presswood, 1996

Mixed trad 20m, 3
5.11b A Farewell to Arms

Start in the flaring crack until the first roof, traverse right and up onto a small ledge. Move left and through another roof section past a bolt to the top. Two-bolt rappel anchor. Standard rack <3"

FA: J. Holmes, 1997

Mixed trad 20m, 1
5.10c Nubbin

Climb starts in the middle of the face at a small left-facing nub. Leads up through a small crack past the first bolt. That crack closes just below the second bolt, follow through it to the two-bolt rappel. Standard rack <3"

FA: J. Presswood, 1996

Mixed trad 20m, 2
5.11a L.S.T.B. Program

Start just to the right of Nubbin under the first bolt and follow the right-facing feature past the second bolt. Go straight up to the third bolt and finish left at the same rappel anchor as Nubbin.

FA: L. van Ulden, 2006

Mixed trad 20m, 3
5.10d A Few Tense Moments

This route follows the left-facing corner. Recently the bottom has fallen away which makes the route from what was 5.8 (in NCG, 2007) to a 5.10d. No rappel Anchor although you can lower off chains from Iron Hand.

FA: T. Alexander/L. Huh, 1999

Trad 20m
5.11a Ass Master

Best to use a stick clip for the first bolt as it's above the roof section. Climb through the roof section up to the second bolt and upwards to a small ledge with a two-bolt rappel anchor.

FA: J. Wall, 2006

Mixed trad 15m, 2
5.7 Candy

A very popular route. Start in the corner and move left through big holds. Sometimes worth placing a piece of gear between bolts 4/5. Uses same rappel anchor as Ass Master.

Note: A 075 camelot or similar goes very well. Anchor can be made out of one 12M cordalette tied by a double fisherman's knot & four locking carabiners, or similar.

FA: N. O'Regan, 2006

Mixed trad 15m, 5
5.7 Ivan's Corner

Start to the right of Candy on the right-facing corner. Stay in the corner all the way to the ledge at the top, then move left to the rappel anchors for Ass Master.

FA: I. Coffin/D. Fost, 1997

Trad 20m
5.9 Hakuna Matata

Start in the middle of the face with good holds. Move left through the roof section and continue through the bolts up to the top. Good gear placement in between the 4th bolt and rappel anchor if required.

FA: J. Holmes/T. Alexander, 2001

Mixed trad 18m, 4
5.11a Size Matters Not

Start at the left side of Flaccid Ledge, small crimpy holds until the crux past the second bolt. Possibly use gear here as a fall could be messy. Tops out at rappel anchor.

FA: T. Alexander, 2001

Mixed trad 12m, 3
5.10a Flaccid

Start in the middle of the ledge up some small horizontal cracks. Towards the top holds get bigger and better. If required, use gear between the third bolt and the rappel anchors.

FA: S. Russell/K. McClennan, 1998

Mixed trad 12m, 3
5.9 Homer Erectus

Start on the far right of Flaccid ledge. Climb up the arete through the first bolt and up the crack to the right topping out at rappel anchors. Standard rack <2"

FA: J. Holmes/D. Fost, 1998

Mixed trad 12m, 1
5.6 Noggin'

Starts to the right of "Wet Chalk", there's a good double crack system that is more competent than it seems. Climb towards the dark patch to the top left and proceed about 5m past all the other climbs to the rappel anchor. Shares a top. Standard rack <4" (mostly 1"-4")

FA: A. Draskoy, 1999

Trad 25m
5.7 PG13 Arms Race
1 5.7
2 PG13

Starts just to the right of Noggin' and follows a dark streak right to the top. Starts easy and gets a little harder towards the top. Double rappel anchor as well as shared top-belay anchor with Noggin'. Standard rack <4". Gear is good at the bottom but the top section is a little run out.

Description Climb the dark streak between Noggin and Spray Down with some interesting moves around flakes and blocks at the bottom before getting a little trickier towards the top.

Trad 20m
5.11 Good Country Lovin'

Description Face climb past three slightly spaced bolts to a rest ledge, then climb the overhanging face above with some good but small gear. Pull the small roof on the right to a large ledge and top out via the wide easy crack to a three bolt anchor.

Protection three bolts, standard rack with micro cams, bolt anchor

Mixed trad 24m, 3
5.11a PG13 Gabe

Description A very exciting climb; while all the hard moves are protected this is not bolted like a modern sport route and some falls off easier sections may be dangerous. Start as per Good Country Lovin', but at the third bolt make a long, runout traverse left and continue up to the fourth bolt. Tricky and engaging face climbing leads past two more bolts, then 20 feet of gear protected climbing with a memorable mantle leads to the top.

Protection 6 bolts, 2.5 - 5" cam for the first horizontal, 0.5 - 1.5" cams for the easy top section. Three bolt anchor

Mixed trad 24m, 6
5.12 Gabe Direct

Description A harder direct start for Gabe. Hard, thin climbing similar to Screaming Life past three spaced bolts, then join the fourth bolt of Gabe and continue as per that route.

Protection Bolts, couple cams for the top of Gabe

FA: J. Wall

Mixed trad 24m, 7
5.11a Maggie

A very classic route. 5 sport bolts, trad section, one more bolt, option to use the right bolt of the "Ledge Dweller" anchor as the last piece on the route, and new toprope glue-in bolts installed September 2020.

Top HANGERS are on the top of the ledge for creating an anchor from the top access - note that the hike down is quite the scramble, and it is not possible to rappel nor thread & lower off the higher anchor bolts.

Check the hangers to see if they are spinning. They can be tightened with an adjustable wrench.

Trad gear: Cams 2''-0.75''

Mixed trad 35m, 5
5.9 Yellow Fever

Description Probably the most famous/well-known route on the island. Classic! Start in thin cracks on blocks before stepping right into the wide crack. A variety of jams and / or face holds in and around the crack can be used to reach the top.

Location The route to the right of "Maggie", and left of "Seascape" and "Fifth Element". The obvious wide crack around 20ft left of MC Hammer.

Protection Standard rack with bigger gear. Probably want a #5 if it's at your limit. Bolted anchor with rounded edges glue-ins. One bolt. Anchor set up is 2x two foot slings and four locking carabiners, or similar.

Note this route shares a top ledge with Maggie. It is possible to set up a toprope on this route from a scramble down from the top... There are loose rocks on this scramble so it is possible to knock down rocks onto climbers below. It is also a sketchy scramble.

It is possible to set up a toprope on this route after having clipped the higher anchor (the one with two hangers) on the ledge on Maggie while still on belay. NOTE: This really really takes a lot of time, is sketchy, and actually sort of sucks because the ropes get all tangled up.

Neither of these is convenient, setting up a toprope might be best done by leading the route on gear.

FA: D. Storks

Mixed trad 27m, 1
5.11c Fifth Element

Description Start in the same place as Yellow fever and then traverse right onto the arete and follow the bolts up using both sides of the arete until you hit the crux right before the end.

Protection Gear to 1" for the start then 5 bolts. Bolted anchor on top.

FA: S. Russell

Mixed trad 27m, 5
5.9 Seascape

Description Start in the same place as Yellow fever and after the start traverse right past a large flake. Go up the face to the right of the flake past a small roof and straight to the top.

There is a large traverse at the start of this so long slings are recommended to avoid rope drag. Also care must be taken when top roping because of the potential swing.

Protection 1 bolt and gear to 2". Rappel anchor on top.

FA: J. Holmes / A. Draskoy 1997, 1997

Mixed trad 27m, 1
5.10b Seascape Direct

Description Start in the corner under the roof to the right of the Yellow Fever start and climb out around the right side to follow the bolts left and join back up with the main Seascape route.

Protection 4 bolts and gear to 2". Rappel anchor on top.

FA: J. Wall, 2006

Mixed trad 27m, 4
5.9 Operation Recuperation

Description An excellent alpine-like climb that brings you over varied terrain with a thrilling, airy finish. Don't forget to take in the view.

The crux is right after the "thank-god bolt" as you transition out of the corner.

The route is most often cleaned by a second. The route requires a 70m rope to rappel (tie rappel knots!), however, this is not recommended. A 4th class scramble (a very reasonable party may elect to rope up) brings you to Yellow Fever ledge, where a rappel is straightforward.

Location Starts at the obvious crack just right of "A Fine Line Between Fear and Flying."

Protection Standard rack up to #3, bolted anchor at 35m.

From memory (change if updated): To set up a toprope after having lead the route, a lot of anchor gear is required. 3x 10M cordalette loops, maybe slings? & 6+ locking carabiners... or maybe even a rope. As the bolts are far from each other, there is a slight scramble to get to one from the other.

FA: J. Presswood & B. Burton, 1995

Mixed trad 33m, 1
Avalon Peninsula Flatrock Spanky's Playground
5.5 Kiddy Crack

Description Follow a very obvious large feature crack / flake to a small ledge. Great place to rappel into spanky's. Starts on and belay from boulder underneath climb. Easiest climb out of spanky's.

Location About 1/5 of the way from the far left of spanky's to the far right.

Protection No bolts. Trad with bolts at the ledge for an anchor.

FA: T. Alexander / K. Dmitrienko

Trad 8m
5.6 Look Both Ways

Description Starts just to the right of 'Kiddy Crack' under the small roof sector. Navigate a couple tricky but light moves and follow the diagonal feature until you join 'Kiddy Crack'. Location 1/5 of the way from the far left to the far right of 'Spanky's Playground'

Lots of medium size scramble boulders in this area. Protection No bolts. Trad or Top Rope. Bolts at the ledge for anchor.

FA: T. Alexander / K. Dmitrienko

Trad 8m
5.7 Unsupervised

Description Fun but short climb. Good placements for beginning trad climbers. Follow crack up and top out to finish. Location Just to the left of the approach scramble, and to the right of the large boulders near the usual rappel spot. Protection Single rack for climb and anchor

FA: Thom Smith & Jared Pardy (TDB)

Trad 8m
5.10a Meat Grinder

Description Follow the hand crack straight up to a 2-bolt anchor. Also serves as a good rappel access to the bottom of the climbs.

Location North end near a series of other climbs. To the left of Insomnia corner.

Protection Rappel bolts accessible from the top.

FA: T. Alexander & L. Huh

Trad 12m
5.10d PG13 Tachycardia
1 5.10d
2 PG13

Description Start by climbing up a thin seam (RP's) to the edge of the first roof about 20 feet up. Climb the corner above this roof then traverse under the second roof via the slab on the right until it is possible to top out the climb.

The route is trickier than it looks, and doesn't really let up until you're standing on top. Location This climb goes up the big roof at the far right side of Spankies. Protection RP's & Ballnuts + Standard rack to 2". I also used a crash pad on the (assumed) FA. Gear Anchor - same belay as "Retreat".

FA: David Bruneau/Adam Page

Trad 18m
5.8 Retreat!

Description This is a fun route, with unique and interesting climbing. It climbs the giant roof to the climbers right of the Breech Boulder. It is made even more fun by the fact that the beginning of the route is underwater even at low tide.

Wait until the waves draw back enough, then quickly run to the base and perform a few slippery crack and layback moves (crux). Getting to the base may take few attempts. Dry your feet and climb this quickly widening crack into the slot to the ceiling. Take the path of least resistance right and up through the chimney/roof to the top. Remember to back-clean some pieces to protect your second. Location To the right of the Breech Boulder, starts in a right facing corner. Protection Standard rack from 0 mastercam to #6 camalot. Make sure you have a #5 and 6 or two #5's. Long slings to alleviate rope drag. Gear belay.

FA: David Bruneau/Phil Stennett

Trad 15m
Avalon Peninsula Flatrock Blood Bath
5.6 Sharp Teeth

Description Follow the sharp crack straight up. Connect to a large hand ledge and two horizontal cracks. Continue up the vertical crack until the bolt anchor is just to your left. Very short but very easy to access with quick scramble to the anchor. A great climb for beginners who haven't climbed outside. This is one of the shortest and least intimidating crags I've been at.

Protection 2 bolts at the anchor. Trad rack or Top Rope only. Toprope anchor: Two 2 foot slings or 1 240cm sling.

Trad 7m
5.4 Unnamed Crack - Middle

Follow the easy crack in between the two cracks which have bolted anchors , "Sharp Teeth" and "Unnamed Dihedral". No bolted anchor at the top. Not a convenient toprope.

Trad 7m
5.5 Unnamed Dihedral

Description Climb up a a 10 foot face with a hand crack to your right. Reach a series of small ledges leaning rightward into a sloping dihedral. There are some alternate starts that finish at the same anchor that will be added later. To the left a series of jugs heading up and to the right, meeting the ledges. To the right, a series of smaller features goes up and to the left meeting a horizontal ledge and crack. Finish along the ledges, or stay right and lean off the arete on small careful footing.

Protection 2 bolts at the anchor. Trad or Top Rope only. Toprope anchor: Two 2 foot slings or 1 240cm sling.

Trad 8m
5.10c Here's Johnny

Description Climb the balancy, shallow crack next to the corner

Protection Top rope only. The anchors are a long way back from the edge so long cord or slings are needed. Suggested sample anchor is two 10M slings, a 240cm sling, and a 120cm sling.

Trad 12m
5.10d Hang Ten

Description Overhanging face climbing past flaring horizontal cracks. Probably not a safe trad lead, better to rappel down it first unless you can confidently downclimb or solo 5.11.

Protection Toprope Anchor. Shared bolts with "Here's Johnny" and "Blood and Guts"

TradProject 12m
5.11a Blood and Guts

Description More overhanging face climbing past flaring horizontal cracks. Not a safe trad lead, at least one person has decked and broken bones after a lead attempt. A good candidate for bolting.

Protection Top anchor. Shared bolts with "Here's Johnny" and "Hang Ten"

Trad 12m
5.8 Blood Bath

Description Climb the crack in the corner past a low crux to easier climbing near the top.

Protection Rack up to 3". Bolted anchors at the top but they are very far back so you need a lot of cord. 10M cordalette and slings.

Trad 12m
5.9 Shake 'n' Bake

Description Start by reaching to the back of a body sized crack for a good hold and climb up into the double crack system. Hug the two cracks, lay back or use your crack climbing skills to get to the top.

Location Immediately to the right of the Blood Bath dihedral

Protection Rack up to 4". Bolted anchor on top are very far back so you need a lot of cord.

Trad 12m
5.10a Unknown

Description Climb side pulls and crimps up the face to some reachy moves from the mid point up to a good hold before the finish.

Location A few feet to the right of Shake 'n' Bake starting under a good flake for your right hand.

Protection Top rope only. Bolted anchors very close to the edge. Can be set up with two one-foot slings.

Trad 12m
5.7 Little Jack's Corner

Description Climb the corner crack starting from the big, elevated ledge. A decent beginner lead.

Protection Standard Rack, top bolts for toproping. Can bet set up with two 2ft slings or 1 240cm sling.

Trad 12m
5.11d PG13 Lessons in Body Karate
1 5.11d
2 PG13

Description The double crack system just right of the large ledge. The start can consist of a left sidepull for the left hand leaning the body with the right hip to the wall, a right jug on the horizontal crack, and feet on some of the features underneath. The climb then proceeds to the anchor, following the right crack as the holds get slightly bigger at the end, with pebbly footholds on the way up.

Location Start to the right of the ledge of "Little Jack's Corner" and to the left of the start for "Grunt".

Protection There is currently a two-bolt anchor at the top for top-roping/anchor set up. This anchor can be set with two one-foot slings and four (locking) carabiners, or a similar configuration with other gear such as a cordelette and/or sling webbing.

To lead the route, standard trad rack, with an emphasis on small cams.

FA: Matt Scott

Trad 12m
5.11a Grunt

Pull through the roof from the ground on the left hand side and either go up a little before trending right or traversing immediately. Use the cracks and tension to work your way to the top. Super strenuous for the grade but no particularly hard moves.

Protection Rack to 3" with an optional bigger piece at the top. Glue-in 2 bolt anchor installed in fall 2020. Can be set up with two 2 ft slings. Previously, a gear anchor was used.

FFA: Paul Chaisson, 2007

Trad 12m
5.11d PG13 The Art Of Body Karate
1 5.11d
2 PG13

Description This climb is mostly the same as the toprope route "Jump Start" 5.11a in the Newfoundland Climbing Guide. From the FA:

"From the topo, and from my recollection, The Art of Body Karate looks to be around where Jump Start is. Or slightly to the left? I think it’s the thin seam just to the left of Jump Start. I recall it involves some thin finger jamming and some very cool high-kick body karate moves (hence the name)"

-Greg Foote

Protection Glue-in bolted anchor installed Fall 2020. Can be set up with one 240cm sling. Shares an anchor with "Jump Start"

Standard rack with an emphasis on small cams, if leading.

FA: Greg Foote

Trad 12m
5.11a Jump Start

On the same bolted anchor as "The Art of Body Karate.

This climb starts with a 'jump start,' to the features and crack above.

Trad 12m
5.8 Sue Be Doo

Description Thrash up the flared chimney, which becomes easier as you approach the top. Crux to start the route. Caution that getting to this route on the ground from the left might be slippery.

Protection Bolted anchor set back over the edge, with another bolt for top-belaying. Likely a well protected lead with a standard rack. Can be set up with two two-foot slings or one 240cm sling.

Trad 12m
5.8 Thinner

Bolted anchor on the corner to the right of "Sue Be Doo". Glue-in anchor bolts installed Fall 2020. Caution that getting to this route from the ground from the left might be slippery. Can be set up with two 2ft slings or one 240 cm sling.

Trad 12m
Avalon Peninsula Flatrock International
5.10b Tension Cracks

Description Climb the series of sharp pockets trending left before topping out either left using the last pocket or with a big move straight up.

Protection For a toprope anchor, this can be set from the top using two two-foot slings and four locking carabiners, or similar.

For leading it on gear, "Small gear in the crystal pockets".

FA: P. Valverde et al, 1995

Trad 9m
5.9 The International

Climb the parallel finger cracks.

In an otherwise underwhelming area this is a little gem of a route. Just a shame it isn't longer or it could be a classic.

Climb the obvious crack feature starting off with laybacking before hitting a slot that takes everything from finger locks to fists. From the slot climb up through a jug to a thin hand crack leading to the top.

Protection

For toprope, Bolt anchor on top. Can be set up with two two foot slings and four locking carabiners, or similar.

For trad, Extremely bomber protection. Could easily be climbed with a rack to 1" but also takes gear up to 4".

FA: P. Valverde et al, 1994

Trad 9m
Avalon Peninsula Flatrock The Locker
5.9 Chum

Climb the obvious crack to the top.

FA: Justin Emberley, 2009

Trad 10m
Avalon Peninsula Flatrock UV Ray
5.3 Steve
Trad 15m
Avalon Peninsula Manuels Baby Face
5.7 (left-leaning crack)

Climb the obvious left-leaning crack on gear to the "Colic" anchor.

Gear is decent.

Trad 10m
Avalon Peninsula Manuels Upper Face
5.7 Tap Tap

the first 10m is climbed unprotected, but it's very easy so not a big concern. Climb to the tree where there'll be a diagonal crack. Climb this shallow face crack until you climb over a bulge. Climb through a corner until you get to the top, traverse right to the rappel anchors on Juggernaut. Standard Rack <4" + Helmet.

FA: D. Bruneau

Trad 30m
5.5 OCD

Climb the lower section same as Juggernaut and Obsession, they share the first rappel station. Clip the next two bolts after the station and move diagonally right through a series of broken cracks. Finish off at a rappel anchor. Standard rack with some small gear as no placements are too big.

Mixed trad 50m, 2, 4
Avalon Peninsula Manuels German Face
5.5 (wandering trad line)

Follows the zig-zag cracks and ramps up the face. Generally easy going (5.0-5.2) with reasonable gear, and one or two moves around 5.5. Lots of places where you can clip bolts, or revert to sport, if worried about the gear.

Start at the system of right-ascending ramps, climbing one of them for about 3-4m until you reach the main left-angling crack that heads up and left. Turn left and follow this crack and ramp system up most of the face, crossing the paths of "Photophobia", "Tach Auch", and "Core Shot". When you reach the ledge system that heads rightwards about 3/4 of the way up the cliff, reverse again and angle up-and-rightwards, crossing "Core Shot" again, finally pulling onto the belay ledge through a broken corner and belaying from the "Core Shot" anchors.

Trad 30m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 120 routes.

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