Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Henry Bolte Wall | |||||
22 | Andrew and Ferret's Bogus Journey
From belay chain on "Slinkin Leopard" step left then up through small cave, back right and up. FA: Andrew Lindblade & Ian Anger, 1991 | 12m | |||
18 | Get Your Bloody Fingers Out of My Nostrils
Start as for "Follow Your Nose" then climb straight up from horizontal on jugs to a crux mantle at top. FA: Lionel Clay & Kurt Smith, 1986 | 10m | |||
22 | ★ Follow Your Nose
Very pumpy. Start: Start near the top left end of the wall. FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley & Ian Anger, 1982 | 12m, 1 | |||
24 R | Follow Your Nose Direct Start
Harder and bolder than the original. Start: Start 2 metres right of "Follow Your Nose". FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989 | 8m | |||
21 | Dropkick The Fucking Carburettor Down The Pines
Traverse as for "Follow Your Nose" and keep going, past "The Fortress" to a bolt on "Lord Of The Rings". Start: Start as for "Follow Your Nose" FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1987 | 20m | |||
27 | ★ Mormon Poultry
Two bolts left of fortress lead into FYN DS FA: Simon Weill | ||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress
A few pieces of gear required higher up. Sustained wall leftward past 2 bolts. At jugs, move right and up. (A pumpy variant is to go left instead and finish up Follow Your Nose). Start: Start 6 metres right of "Follow Your Nose". FA: Dave Fearnley & Mark Moorhead via start from left. As described Kim Carrigan, 1982 | 18m, 2 | |||
27 | ★ The Fortress RHV
Start up Fortress to 2nd bolt, then right and up trying very hard to avoid going back L into the original (and better) version. FA: George Fieg (?), 1995 | 12m, 2 | |||
29 | ★★ Kinky Leopard
Start as for Slinkin' Leopard, then head left after the crux "drive by" through punchy boulder (trad) then finish up Fortress. FA: Lee Cossey, 2015 | 20m, 3 | |||
29 | ★★ Gridlock
Straightens out Slinkin'. Start: Start as for Slinkin' but go direct and up to the end of the L-wards traverse FA: Dave Jones, 1998 | 15m, 3 | |||
28 | ★★★ Slinkin' Leopard
Surely one of the best route names in the country. Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'. A slopey traverse R is protected by a bolt (stick clip). Up past two more bolts before heading L to the crack. Up more easily with trad gear and one more bolt to anchors. FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984 | 20m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers
Brilliant route. Take small cams (00 Friend) + some medium cams (.3BD, .5BD, .75BD) for after the 3 bolts on the traverse. Start: Start 4 metres down from "Slinkin Leopard". FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983 | 30m, 3 | |||
30 | ★ Chuckles Bolty
The "crazy linkup" of Lord of the Rings into Slinkin' Leopard. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | ||||
20 | ★ Going For The One
The original route on the wall is quite good but rope drag can be a problem. Start: Start at obviuos weakness right of "Wackford Squeers", as for "Lord Of The Rings Direct". FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 30m | |||
28 | Straight Outta Compton
AKA Straight Outta Wackford. As for Wackford Squeers Direct, then arbitrarily follow the difficult C-shaped sickle to the L in the upper section (rather than the obvious line of least resistance). FA: Geoff Weigand. Carrigan had climbed the lower section on, 1985 | 25m, 3 | |||
26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers Direct
Very hard crux down low after the pocket (which sadly was a chip ?). Use a short draw and/or a good belayer if this is at your limit as you will fall a few times here. Continue straight up on the R side of the top bulge. There is a very good 3/4 cam placement in a key handhold here so perhaps best to carry it with you and place it at your waist after using it. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 20m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Bolte Wackford
Soft for the grade and contrived, but the climbing is good. Up Henre Bolte through its crux to the break, traverse L for 2m into the top section of Wackford Squeers and over the top bulge as for that. | 16m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★★ Henry Bolte
Superb thin face-climbing. (#2 Wallnut after the first bolt, .75BD in the break after the 3rd bolt + a few more cams in the higher easier section to DBB) Start: Start just right of "Going For The One" FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1983 | 30m, 3 | |||
23 | Got It!
Some bouldery moves. There's a good plunge if you miss the final lunge. Start: Start just right of "Henry Bolte" FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Weigand & Brian Wright, 1981 | 27m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Barbed
A good easy route on a great wall deserves a star. Pitch 2 is really good and eats cams. Great on a warm day. Start: Down and right of the other routes is a prominent crack leading to a bottomless chimney.
FA: Peter Watling & Andrew Hebdon, 1981 | 42m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Gurtle Tier
Line of bolts to a lower-off right of "Barbed". Feel like it climbs a bit contrived by where the bolt placements are, but it's a fun little warm up for the main events up the hill. A cam is good for the top if you scare easily FA: Two Germans., 1996 | 12m, 3 | |||
23 | White on Black
Up for 2 metres then traverse right to pockets and up brushed wall to ledge. Rap as for "Gurtle Tier". Start: Start 3 metres right of "Barbed" at a short, steep flake. FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Broadbent & Louise Shepherd, 1982 | 12m | |||
24 R - X | ★ Big Bird
Cautiously up the grey pitted face trending R to join School for Scandal. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & adam demmert, 19 Mar 2021 | 15m | |||
26 | ★ School for Scandal Direct
An unprotected, dynamic crux leads into School for Scandal. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 19 Mar 2021 | 17m | |||
23 | ★ School for Scandal
Maybe 20m below Barbed and 10m up from the Clown a doglegged thin crack doesn't reach the ground. Up seam in grey slab until desperately thin moves gain crack. Rap anchor. Gear is rather sketchy. | 25m | |||
15 | The Pilgrim's Progress
Start as for School for Scandal but continue up and right to small corner leading into The Clown chimney finish. Rap as for SfS. Pro is a bit fiddly, take small wires and cams. FA: Lou Shepherd, Wendy Eden & Kane Hendy, 10 Dec 2016 | 20m | |||
12 | The CIown
Not great. Well up the gully left of the main buttress, almost to 'Henry Bolte Wall', is a narrow chimney.
FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore. Pitch 2 variant : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth.., 1968 | 78m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Serious Callers Only
Pretty good climbing and protection. Start just right of second pitch of 'Barbed'. Access via abseil anchor of 'Not Invented Here'. Easily up to the big break. Straight up the short overhanging wall, 1 metre right of a left-leading diagonal line, to a good flake. Up 3 metres to top of flake, step right and up water-washed streak to little bulge and up to easier ground. Continue straight up through bulges at top. FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 2012 | 28m | |||
19 | ★ Not Invented Here
Might seem a bit contrived to people too short to do the move past the bolt at a reasonable grade. Access via 25 metre rappel from anchor above this climb. Double set cams to #1 Camalot, plus 1 each #2 and #4. Easy up to the ledge-break and up the short overhanging wall 1.5 metres right of 'Serious Callers Only'. Reach straight up the smooth wall past the bolt then right a little and up on killer incuts to left side of the roof of 'Clear Conscience'. Swing right above overhang and go up to rap anchor. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 2011 | 25m, 1 | |||
20 | ★ Zero Gravitas
Start at belay anchor for 'Not Invented Here' Up onto the big break and traverse 3 metres right to FH below short, shallow corner. Short jump or hard moves into corner and up to good stance. Up wall (2 FH) to roof then follow seam up steep wall above roof (FH) then final, easier bulge. FA: Kieran Loughran, Louise Shepherd & Norm Booth, 2012 | 25m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Clear Conscience
"An obvious leftward-curving line starting high up on the buttress, not far right of the all finish of 'Going For The One' ." The Carrigan guide (ad hence the Shepherd one) has it starting 2 metres right of pitch 2 of 'Barbed' but that doesn't fit the description of the start "under a tight, awkward roof". In fact it appears to be the huge roof-flake up high on the right, which is on the left of the final scramble section of 'Beau Geste' etc. Approach from the right under a tight, awkward roof and then follow the diagonal line over some steep walls and overhangs. FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 20m | |||
Harlequin Cracks Area | |||||
8 | Henry's Sample Is Missing
This pleasant, easy crack midway between The Clown and 'Court Jester' was probably first soloed by Louise to get access to the top of School For Scandal during her massive cleaning exercise. | 12m | |||
12 | Court Jester
Wanders up the left side of the buttresses. A bit scrappy but worth a look. Start some distance uphill of 'Beau Geste', just left of a deep horizontal break.
FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1965 | 100m, 5 | |||
12 | Last Remake
Not a bad pitch. Could be used as a start for 'Artificial Insemination'. Crack about 10 metres left of Beau Geste, avoiding top overhang to right (dirty) FA: Kieran Loughran, Jopie Bodegraven & Robert Knox, 1980 | 25m | |||
8 | Striding Ridge
Another long ramble, about half of which are bits of existing climbs.
FA: Stev Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 15 Aug 2016 | 140m, 5 | |||
14 | ★ A Whale Of A Time
Another pleasant ramble. Start: At toe of buttress just left of "Beau Geste"
FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2010 | 140m, 5 | |||
17 | A Whale Of A Time Variant
A good pitch but a bit out of place with only easy options for approach and finish. Start at second belay; this is also the second belay of "Beau Geste", at the top of the neat little corner. Climb orange wall up and right to arete and continue up arete until it joins the original line (crack curving in from left) and eases. Continue easily to belay. FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2010 | 25m | |||
18 | ★★ A Whale Of A Time Direct Finish
This great little pitch is not really more direct but it is a good finish to this route, especially if done with the Grade 17 variant, or to "Artificial Insemination". Tiny cams are essential. Start: Start around left of the top pitch of "Beau Geste" at a prominent right curving corner. Climb the arete and face left of the corner. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 2010 | 12m | |||
9 | ★★ Beau Geste
1
9
50m
2
9
13m
3
9
18m
4
9
25m
5
7
30m
A great adventure. Start below major chimney on left side of cliff. Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.
| 140m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Artificial Insemination
A fairly good direct line with a few nice sections and an exciting finish around the overhang at the top of the face. Big cams needed on first 2 pitches. Even better if finished via Noddy's face 'A Whale of a Time Direct Finish' around left of last pitch of 'Beau Geste'. Start from the terrace, at the base of Beau Geste's second pitch corner.
FA: Roger Webb, Phillip Armstrong. Phillip had climbed the crux overhang with Eddie Ozols & Mark Shelton two months earlier., 1977 | 130m, 3 | |||
6 | ★ BA Mosquito
Pleasant access route to the big terrace. Blunt, slabby arete starting 10 metres right of Beau Geste. FA: Heather Phillips & Bill Andrews, 1983 | 45m | |||
11 | Trouble With Lichen
Follow 2 corners to easy ground, aiming for large left-facing flake. Pass this on left and up. Start: Start at short corner 2 metres right of 'BA Mosquito'. FA: Bill Andrews & GIT course member, 1981 | 45m | |||
16 | ★ Mr Hoppy
A wonderful excursion all the way. Takes steep wall between Tale of Woe and Bung.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 9 Jun 2015 | 130m, 3 | |||
9 | ★ Tale of Woe
A popular outing following the prominent diagonal line. Not really sure that it warrants a star though.
FA: Mike Stone & Chris Baxter, 1973 | 85m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ Bung
Looks great but is just OK. Begin up Tale Of Woe then step right and follow sinuous line up and slightly left on wall. FA: Keith Lockwood, Doug & Beryl Palmen, 1977 | 45m | |||
12 | XXXX
Similar to Bung. Start as for Bung but after stepping right continue straight up the wall rather than following line. FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1983 | 45m | |||
10 | Carnivale
Climb Harlequin Cracks until it’s easy to move out onto the left wall. Follow arête, finishing up line past the left edge of the Harlequin Cracks roof. FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 28 May 2016 | 50m | |||
11 | ★★ Harlequin Cracks
The long corner of the first pitch is lovely.
FA: Ted Batty, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson. Pitch 3 corner : Rob Taylor & Daryl Carr., 1966 | 80m, 3 | |||
18 | Columbine Corner
Start: Start as for 'Harlequin Cracks'.
FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 2010 | 48m, 2 | |||
17 R | ★ Calabrese
Very good, but beware the runout halfway up the 1st pitch. Some say that the poor protection is not a problem given the straightforward nature of the climbing. However there is also the case of a leader who backed off this and went on to 'Orestes' for his next, successful, climb. Start 4m L of 'Salami'.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Bill Andrews (alt), 1982 | 55m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Calabrese Salami Sandwich
A variant that links P1 of Calabrese into P2 of Salami.
FA: benwiessner & Lachlan Milne, 2 Nov 2022 | 2 | |||
11 | ★★ Salami
1
11
36m
2
9
15m
3
10
30m
FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter, 1965 | 81m, 3 | |||
11 | Salami Direct Finish
A good finish for 'Salami', starting from the first belay. Climb steep cracks and corner above the first belay. FA: Daryl Carr & Jerry Grandage, 1965 | 27m | |||
12 | Where The F Are We
This monster corner-chimney is not only good fun, but benefits from coming into shade early in the day, but last pitch is in full sun. Great 1st and last pitches with some scrap in the middle.
Walk off the back to finish and down trail to left. Set: Geoff, 2013 FFA: 2013 FA: Geoff, Alicia, Jason & Holly, 2013 | 97m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Industrial Muscle
From 'Salami', move right onto wall at horizontal break. Up past bolt then up and left to crescent-shaped ledge. Up this past two carrots then hard moves up right. Rap rings. FA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1988 | 30m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★★ The Age of Stainless
As for IM, then take extended leftward finish up the mighty headwall. 30 metre rappel. Start: Start as for 'Industrial Muscle'. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2003 | 35m | |||
15 | Better to Marry Than to Burn
From conifer below 'Salami' climb face on right for 2 metres. Traverse right to weakness in bulge, then straight up. FA: Chris, Sue Baxter, Dave Gairns & Keith Lockwood, 1983 | 40m | |||
12 | Happy-go-Lucky
Prominent broken diagonal right of 'Salami'. Start at short red corner some metres right of 'Salami'.
FA: Peter Watling & Anita Lundberg (alt), 1984 | 91m, 4 | |||
16 | Goonkachoong
Takes the prominent roof. Up clean flake and over roof. FA: Dave Mudie & Dennis Kemp, 1989 | 15m | |||
14 | Stop lt Or You'll Go Blind
Climb middle of face right of 'Goonkachoong'. FA: Dennis Kemp & Dave Mudie, 1989 | 15m | |||
13 | The Met
Good corner. V-corner a few metres right of Goonkachoong. FA: Peter Watling & Anita Lundberg, 1984 | 20m | |||
Mysteries Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Tigger
Old Paul Hoskins project re-equipped and sent. Ultra-smeary! Start: Start on left side of 'Mysteries Wall' proper. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | 12m, 2 | |||
20 R | ★ Rosshalde
A fingery and scary start and exciting finish up the headwall. The original route followed the line L all the way, but a far better finish is to step airily R off the sloping ledge and up the headwall at a fairly solid 19 (as described). Large cam/s size 4 or 5 could be handy at the bottom and small ones stepping off the ledge. Start to the left of the major crack on the left side of the wall. Traverse right into the left-curving crack and follow it past a bulge. From just past overhang move out right onto face and up. FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham & Geoff Weigand soloed finish Feb 1985, 1979 | 35m | |||
24 | ★★ Free Will
A direct on Rosshalde. Up the slippery seam past 2 bolts, follow Rosshalde to the roof and then R and up past another 2 bolts. Take lots of long slings or double ropes. After the first 2 bolts there are good small wires where Rosshalde traverses in but they are hard to see, and after rain the placement sometimes fills up with sand - a nut key may be handy to clean it out as they are pretty crucial. Might be 23. FA: Douglas Hockly & Geordie Webb, 14 May 2016 | 20m, 4 | |||
27 | ★★ Model Phantom
Thin stuff. Up 'Blue-Eyed and Blond' then veer left into the crack of Mysteries. Undercling the crack to gain gravelly crimps past two bolts, then easier ground above. FA: Geoff Weigand., 1985 | 25m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★★ Blue-Eyed and Blond
The most attractive climb here. The start requires some small micro cams to protect adequately. If you're not confident at the grade it is recommended to rap in to pre-place or double check the first bits of gear. It is a good idea to anchor your belayer until a few pieces are placed as the consequences of a fall are very serious. Start below vertical seam that crosses a diagonal line (Mysteries) a few metres up. Traverse R to single bolt, up past desperate crux then easier ground. Lower offs at top. FA: Chris Shepherd., 1984 | 25m, 1 | |||
23 | ★ Mysteries
The diagonal crack leading left into 'Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.
FA: Lincoln, Chris Shepherd (pitch 1). Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (pitch 2) 1981., 1980 | 45m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Modern History
Nice rock and good climbing but it's not worth doing as the other routes are far more logical lines. Start up 'Mysteries' diagonal, when you reach 'Blue Eyed and Blond' follow it up and right, then keep traversing right. Up higher go right and left a few more times to ensure you've got the most out of the wall, then traverse with your hands on the top and downclimb Rosshalde. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981 | 35m | |||
26 | ★★ Historic Events
Climb directly past two bolts into 'Modern History'. Either finish up that climb (as originally done) or continue straight up and into Blue Eyed and Blonde. Start: Start just right of 'Mysteries'. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 25m, 2 | |||
25 X | Short 'n' Sharp
Serious unprotected overhung arete right of 'Historic Events'. A rope would serve only to stop a plummet all the way down the gully below. FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985 | 15m | |||
20 | ★ Spanish Eyes
Hard dyno up the overhanging line onto the wall. Rather than following easy crack (Gardener's Delight), go left across wall and around arete to finish up flat-tops. Start: Start at the cave about 3 metres right of 'Historic Events'. FA: Glenn Tempest & Steve Lassche, 2000 | 30m | |||
17 | Spanish Gardener
Start up the second pitch of Gardener's Delight and finish up Spanish Eyes. | 25m | |||
15 | Cundall's Arete
Start at the arete 3 metres right of the cave of 'Spanish Eyes', the start of the second pitch of Gardener's Delight. Pull up onto wall and drift right and up sharp arete. The wall between this climb and Gardener's Delight has been top-roped from the rappel rings. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1998 | 15m | |||
17 | A Night to Remember
Nice line with fiddly pro. Thin line up face just around right of Cundall's Arete. FA: Glenn Tempest & Steve Lassche, 1980 | 15m | |||
32 | Project
| 12m | |||
25 | Pancho And Pedro Go Bolting
The first route established on this wall. One bolt. Hard start from pockets leads to an easier mid-section. FA: Tom Greenwood, 1989 | 15m | |||
27 | ★★ Pooh Sticks
Nowadays largely ignored but still worth doing in it's own right. Originally started by stepping off the pillar into the line but now incorporates the direct start from the ground. Where the connection moves left into 'Anus Horribilus', continue straight up via the traditionally protected arete. FA: Roland Foster, 1989 | 22m, 3 | |||
17 R | Eeyore's Thistle's
Good route but runout. Start: Slab route immediately right (around corner) from Pooh Sticks. A few jugs then run-out to first RB, which is clipped while leaning well L off poor handholds and facing a possible groundfall. There's another RB then DRB lower-off. FA: Andrew Martin, 2004 | 20m, 2 | |||
12 | ★ Gardener's Delight
First pitch doesn't get a lot of traffic so can be dirty. Great second pitch. Start: Start at the rounded arete, about the same place as Eeyores Thistles.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Rob Taylor (alt), Daryl Carr & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 60m, 2 | |||
10 | Wigwam for a Goose’s Bridle
A fun novelty, involving some airy bridging between two aretes. The arete left of Mohawkman, pulling onto the pinnacle for the final moves. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1 Feb 2019 | 14m | |||
19 | Mohawkman
2 rings plus a handful of cams to summit loweroff. Start: Lefthand slab route on detached wall just right of Gardener's Delight. FA: Joel wilson | 12m, 2 | |||
15 | ★ Mohawk Hanky
The natural line on the face, avoiding the hard bits of the other two routes. Quite sustained. Take a few cams with a couple of #1 and #3 in the mix. | 14m | |||
21 | ★ Mr Hanky
Has a ring with a hard clip for the hard start then drops off several grades. Summit loweroff. Righthand slab route with hard start just right of Mohawkman. FA: Joel wilson | 12m, 1 | |||
16 | Beached Wails
Looks good but poorly protected, somewhat contrived and generally not much fun. The best bit is that the first ascent team got to the top, found they were on a pinnacle and started bemoaning that they would have to leave gear behind. Then HB poked his head over the top on the short side... Start: Down right of the 'Mohawkman' face on a narrow south-east face just left of a wide crack. Climb wall just left of wide crack and go up to ledge on the left. Step up and right into left facing flake-crack and follow it. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Moss, 1983 | 40m | |||
17 | A Goat's Song
Sustained face climbing, spoiled a bit by the big ledge at half-height. Wires and cams up to #1 plus #3.5 cam. Start at black face just right of 'Beached Wails'. Up face past 2 FH then move right and up to ledge. Step back up left onto the face, up and left to middle of face. Up past FH to break, step left and up to anchor. Some people have had trouble pulling the rope so be careful where it runs over the edge. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman., 1998 | 25m, 3 | |||
19 | Things Fall Apart
Good first pitch but be careful to avoid the dangerous hollow flake immediately left of the start. Start: Start below a crack about 10 metres down right of A Goat\'s Song.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1998 | 30m, 2, 1 | |||
Shiralee Wall | |||||
22 R | A Gift From the Gods
The good section hardly makes up for the horrible start and way off. Start: At lowest point on wall. FA: Keith Egerton, Andrew Corlass, Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve & Craig Nottle, 1984 | 25m, 1 | |||
19 | Who Rolled the Stone?
Better than AGFTG despite sharing the start and much the same finish Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.
FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Mike Stone, 1984 | 50m, 2 | |||
18 | Stone's Throw
Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Mike Stone & Peter Woolford, 1984 | 50m, 2 | |||
17 | Banshee
Not worth the star. Protection is a bit fiddly to get though it is good on the hardest moves. Start: Originally started as for A Gift From The Gods but is better as for 'Dingbats'.
FA: Keih Lockwood, Rick Hatch & Ray Lassman, 1983 | 50m, 2 | |||
14 | Dingbats
Start: 4 metres left of 'The Shiralee'.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Tony Yap. Start as described by Chris Baxter et al., 1984 | 50m, 2 | |||
15 | ★★ The Shiralee
Tenuous climbing into the orange scoops that would have been very scary before microcams. Deserves to be climbed more often and might be now that the abseil anchor has gone in Put up in a rainstorm during which a child almost drowned in Central Gully! Start: Start below line of orange scoops.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Reg Marron, 1973 | 55m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ The Shiralee Direct
A direct start and finish to 'The Shiralee' makes for a very good climb. Take some tiny cams and a #3 (blue) Camalot in your rack. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2009 | 20m, 1 | |||
17 R | ★ The Crumpet Didn't Front
Start at short crack 6 metres right of 'The Shiralee', up blank wall past pocket (crux and no gear) to crack in overlap then up wall. Quite good climbing on spaced gear. Traverse R to chains on I Am An Expert on Bananas FA: Chris baxter & Keith Lockwood., 1983 | 25m | |||
17 | Tallness is something Other People Suffer From
Takes the deep crack not quite reaching the ground right of Crumpet then step left and up wall past 2 bolts. Traverse off to anchor on Banana Expert FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 26 Mar 2016 | 25m, 2 | |||
18 | Great Sleeping Weather
Take right hand line through overlap right of Tallness (the flake on left line is hollow), up past bolt through bulge then easy ground to nice wall. Step left and finish as per Tallness past 2 bolts. Traverse R to chains. FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 26 Mar 2016 | 25m, 3 | |||
15 | ★ I am a Banana Expert
Up black and orange clean streak left of Cold Episode of Influenza, 2 bolts plus gear, take micro cams and a 3 camalot. Rap anchor. FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 26 Mar 2016 | 25m, 2 | |||
8 | ★ Cold Episode of Influenza
Takes the low angled groove at right end of wall. Shares anchor with I am a Banana Expert. FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 25 Mar 2016 | 25m | |||
14 | Tea is Full of Good Things
The Beatuitiful Possiblities of the Northern Group! Ok, maybe not quite, but it is a delicate line up the front of a buttress. Gear is fiddly. Up seam right of Cold Episode, continue up front of buttress and through overlap at top. Traverse to anchor on Banana Expert FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 25 Mar 2016 | 25m | |||
14 | I will build a great wall
Up wall left of easy crack, past 2 bolts and small bulge. Take a 2 RP. FA: Wendy Eden & Ying Ying He, 12 Jun 2017 | 2 |